Bobcat 632 - Blown Head Gasket?

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bobcatzack

bobcatzack

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I did not see any cylinder ridge so have your mech. check the bore and maybe some honing and a new set of rings will do the job. yeah check the crank and bearings since you are right there.
Thank you 🙏
 

oiu789

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Thank you for the detailed explanations and advise, appreciated! I had no idea a hoist could be rented! I spent half a day today building a platform, disconnecting the engine attachments (which surprisingly went smooth without the need to remove the seat), figuring out how the engine would need to be pulled (ended up using my van to pull it out inch by inch onto the platform). Engine is out now, but I am a bit worried about looking at all the oil and oily sludge that is behind the engine - worse nightmare .. could some of the hydraulic pipes and connections be leaking?!!


Should have used a come along or a ratchet strap or a chain boomer to pull not a van.
 

Ster1

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My pleasure. You have a great place there. Stay with it, you're on the right track. I know the rest looks daunting, but it's no more difficult than what you've already done, it's just new to you. Experience is a tool you'll never lose.
 

cdmccul

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Experience is a tool you'll never lose.

This.

I've heard it before, but often forget. That's such a true statement.

It's been a few minutes since I've had the pleasure of attending an online-group in-person "meet". Envious of you two being able to connect organically over a common interest. :) WOOHOO!
 
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bobcatzack

bobcatzack

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Should have used a come along or a ratchet strap or a chain boomer to pull not a van.
Yeah got a heavy duty pully system now .. can attach around the garage walls/ceiling to lift the engine and move it around .. thanks for the suggestion. Pulling with a van was very risky in retrospect.
 
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bobcatzack

bobcatzack

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Finally have the engine head block visible - the head gasket was definitely damaged (pic attached below), and the video link shows the top view of the engine head, as I love the pistons manually .. I am also noticing of the holes completely sealed off .. perhaps the blue devil coolant sealer I had added blocked the hole instead of fixing the tear in the head gasket? Not sure .. but any advise on how to proceed, and if I should be looking at replacing the pistons etc would be highly appreciated:


*as I MOVE the pistons manually .. not love the pistons, that really sound strange! (typo, my bad!)
 

RandyL

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My 632 looked like a black hole when you would open the door. Once the engine was out, I used putty knives, wire brushes, paper towels and most of a case of brake clean to clen up the machine... then sprayed it all with white paint. I also cleaned the engine ( outside ) and painted it and all the parts once rebuilt. It makes a huge difference. You can see in there now! I used 2 shades of gray, green, and black on the engine and attachments. It was worth the time spent. Overall, I did head work, rings, all the seals, fuel pump, fuel lines, timing chain, and cleaned up the battered wiring harness where needed. Good luck and stay at it.
 

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cdmccul

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My 632 looked like a black hole when you would open the door. Once the engine was out, I used putty knives, wire brushes, paper towels and most of a case of brake clean to clen up the machine... then sprayed it all with white paint. I also cleaned the engine ( outside ) and painted it and all the parts once rebuilt. It makes a huge difference. You can see in there now! I used 2 shades of gray, green, and black on the engine and attachments. It was worth the time spent. Overall, I did head work, rings, all the seals, fuel pump, fuel lines, timing chain, and cleaned up the battered wiring harness where needed. Good luck and stay at it.
Nice looking! Wish my 632 was cleaned up like that when the motor was changed. It was changed by a shop by the previous owner.
 
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bobcatzack

bobcatzack

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My 632 looked like a black hole when you would open the door. Once the engine was out, I used putty knives, wire brushes, paper towels and most of a case of brake clean to clen up the machine... then sprayed it all with white paint. I also cleaned the engine ( outside ) and painted it and all the parts once rebuilt. It makes a huge difference. You can see in there now! I used 2 shades of gray, green, and black on the engine and attachments. It was worth the time spent. Overall, I did head work, rings, all the seals, fuel pump, fuel lines, timing chain, and cleaned up the battered wiring harness where needed. Good luck and stay at it.
Really nice! Night and day difference! The color combination is great. May I ask if the paint had to be some special type suitable for engines? Also was the exhaust manifold painted too, can't really tell from the pics. Please to share pics once the engine is in. Many thanks!
 
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bobcatzack

bobcatzack

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My 632 looked like a black hole when you would open the door. Once the engine was out, I used putty knives, wire brushes, paper towels and most of a case of brake clean to clen up the machine... then sprayed it all with white paint. I also cleaned the engine ( outside ) and painted it and all the parts once rebuilt. It makes a huge difference. You can see in there now! I used 2 shades of gray, green, and black on the engine and attachments. It was worth the time spent. Overall, I did head work, rings, all the seals, fuel pump, fuel lines, timing chain, and cleaned up the battered wiring harness where needed. Good luck and stay at it.
Also Randy - when you said fuel lines, did you get the original hard lines with a small solenoid or used some alternate method? Currently I have replaced the hard fuel lines with a flexible pipe and bypassed the solenoid function.
 

cdmccul

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My 632 doesn't have a solenoid for the fuel, it is just the hard line above the blower. From the top, it has the tank, shut off valve, threaded filter, hard line through the bulkhead and across to the other side, then it switches to rubber. From there I have modified it to adapt from 1/4 to 3/8, then into an electric inline fuel pump bolted to the top of the intake, then from 3/8 to 1/4 and into the side of the carb.
 
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bobcatzack

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My 632 doesn't have a solenoid for the fuel, it is just the hard line above the blower. Foo the top, jt has the tank, shut off valve, threaded filter, hard line through the bulkhead and across to the other side, then it switches to rubber. From there I have modified it to adapt from 1/4 to 3/8, then into an electric inline fuel pump bolted to the top of the intake, then from 3/8 to 1/4 and into the side of the carb.
Thanks!
My fuel filter is mechanical but there is a pretty bad situation where one side of the fuel line going to the carburetor completely blocks the carb choke to function, so the choke is always in the open position. I am contemplating switching to electric inline fuel pump - any direction on obtaining/ buying one would be appreciated.
 

cdmccul

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504
Thanks!
My fuel filter is mechanical but there is a pretty bad situation where one side of the fuel line going to the carburetor completely blocks the carb choke to function, so the choke is always in the open position. I am contemplating switching to electric inline fuel pump - any direction on obtaining/ buying one would be appreciated.

I used a pump similar to this one, first, but it failed after less than a year. It was from AutoZone. After it failed while pushing snow, I put this one on ad or was the only one in stock. It is both longer and bigger around.

My mechanical block mounted fuel pump has totally failed and the top cap popped off, so I just left the rest of it there to fill the hole in the block. I replaced all the rubber line a little at a time - I should have just changed it all at once, but alas here we are.

I bolted the pump down vertically at the front of the intake, using a 5/16th 1 inch bolt (and I washer or two to take up extra bolt length). It is grounded through the dipstick mounting bolt, and gets power through a relay I added that is triggered by the fuel solenoid line found under the governor/distributor/carb.

Pic *217 is overall mounting of pump... It popped out of the mount, I'll fix it when I'm not kneeling in 2 feet of snow.

Pic *142 is the bracket... Apparently my pump slipped out! But you can see the adapter film 5/16 (not 1/4 inch like I thought) to 3/8 hose. I need to tidy this all up.

Pic *201 is the trigger lead for the relay. This is the trigger for the carburetor solenoid. The factory harness on my truck is a pair of yellow wires with a female 1/4 spade connector. I have a spade piggy back connector inline going to my relay, then onward to the carb solenoid (the funny sheet metal "U" bracket).

Pic *152 is the relay. And other garbage. Again, kneeling in snow. I'll clean this up in a few months. Hey, at least I have fuses! :)
 

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cdmccul

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From Randy's post, here are the mounting holes I used. I used the outboard hole, not the hole closest to the valve cover.
 

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Ster1

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This.

I've heard it before, but often forget. That's such a true statement.

It's been a few minutes since I've had the pleasure of attending an online-group in-person "meet". Envious of you two being able to connect organically over a common interest. :) WOOHOO!
I didn't have very much time. I would have liked to have spent longer, but I had my daughter with me, and I promised her a visit to a trampoline park before dinner :)
 

Ster1

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Feb 8, 2022
Messages
90
Thanks!
My fuel filter is mechanical but there is a pretty bad situation where one side of the fuel line going to the carburetor completely blocks the carb choke to function, so the choke is always in the open position. I am contemplating switching to electric inline fuel pump - any direction on obtaining/ buying one would be appreciated.
Hey Zack, just for the record, that thing you're calling fuel filter is actually a fuel pump. Not that that really changes anything, I'm just trying to help you identify parts. Also, you mentioned fuel solenoid. I didn't see a solenoid in there. If it matters, post a pic of what you're calling a solenoid. Again, only if it matters to ya.

Guys he's doing this in his garage all by himself. He'd never done anything like this before, and he's just charging in, and learning along the way. I got a lot of respect for that! After all, isn't that how we all got started? You're doing great Zack.
 

cdmccul

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The aluminum part in the upper right part of the picture *201 above is the my old mechanical fuel pump. You can see it is missing the gold color lid that would have had the fuel lines connected to it.
 

cdmccul

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Guys he's doing this in his garage all by himself. He'd never done anything like this before, and he's just charging in, and learning along the way. I got a lot of respect for that! After all, isn't that how we all got started? You're doing great Zack.

Exactly! Keep it up Zack, you'll be the best expert on YOUR machine!
 

RandyL

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May 29, 2021
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I will hopefully clear up a bit about my own fuel system. Once my fuel line enters the engine compartment, from the fuel shut off and filter, it changes from steel line to rubber tubing. I replaced all the rubber tubing. My machine does not have any electronic solenoids in-line or in the carb as some do. When I went through my engine I wanted a new fuel pump only because it is difficult to reach and I did not know the age of it. I bought a new mechanical fuel pump from an auto parts, all seemed fine until I found that the choke would not work. The linkage hit the outlet tube of the new pump. I could not find a duplicate of my original pump. After a couple of weeks I considered using a choke cable instead of hard linkage. I hook that all up and did not like it. I could imagine water getting in the cable and freezing in the winter....back to square one. After an even longer search, I indeed found the exact fuel pump and all worked out perfectly. On the photos attached you will see the difference of the 2 pumps and why the outlet cannot come out the side. It must come straight out of the top to clear everything.
 

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