Skid steer stalls out

[Tazza]

It's not the grease fittings because i switched it out with one that worked. It for the rear lift arm. The fitting is on the top near the engine door and goes all the way to the bottom where the joint connects to the frame> i'd say it's about 5 feet away from the nipple. I was always wondering how it got grease. I found 2 nipples i never knew were there. ON another note i have a JCB backhoe. JCB's have British threads. I wonder if i'll be able to use fitting from auto parts store or i have to get them from JCB since a few are broken or missing. Been having trouble with that also. Metering valve seems to be sticking. Hopefully i can get that going. Not having much luck this year at all.

The difference between BSP and NPT is only 1 thread per inch. This generally will not cause any problems for grease nipples as they only have short threads.
The only way to get grease in that arm is to remove the pin and clean the hard grease and re-install the pin if you have tried replacing the nipple.

 

[mustang2105]

The difference between BSP and NPT is only 1 thread per inch. This generally will not cause any problems for grease nipples as they only have short threads.
The only way to get grease in that arm is to remove the pin and clean the hard grease and re-install the pin if you have tried replacing the nipple.

Oh boy that looks like an impossible mission. What about the tool you were telling me about? On another note the machine has a deep cycle battery in it. I thought they were stronger than regular batteries. But i'm reading on the net and it doesn't seem that way. I have to go back and look at the cranking amps. I wonder if that maybe the weak starting problem. I'll be back. Adam

 

[skidsteer.ca]

Oh boy that looks like an impossible mission. What about the tool you were telling me about? On another note the machine has a deep cycle battery in it. I thought they were stronger than regular batteries. But i'm reading on the net and it doesn't seem that way. I have to go back and look at the cranking amps. I wonder if that maybe the weak starting problem. I'll be back. Adam

Deep cycles are designed to put out a lower amperage and do it over a longer period of time. A starting battery is designed to put out a higher amperage. Also starting batterys will not tolerated being dischagred and recharged too many times and even though "deep cycle" batterys are supposed to be able to stand this its hard on them to. they are not true deep cycle batterys either. Solar panel systems scoff at marine and rv deep cycle battery as junk (for a solar system) and the battery they require are several 100 dollars each.
At any rate, get yourself the largest starting battery that will fit in the space and look for a high CCA (cold cranking amp) and a large reserve rating (expressed in minutes ie 180) Diesels with glow plugs need as much as possible of each to insure long battery life.

 

[Tazza]

Deep cycles are designed to put out a lower amperage and do it over a longer period of time. A starting battery is designed to put out a higher amperage. Also starting batterys will not tolerated being dischagred and recharged too many times and even though "deep cycle" batterys are supposed to be able to stand this its hard on them to. they are not true deep cycle batterys either. Solar panel systems scoff at marine and rv deep cycle battery as junk (for a solar system) and the battery they require are several 100 dollars each.
At any rate, get yourself the largest starting battery that will fit in the space and look for a high CCA (cold cranking amp) and a large reserve rating (expressed in minutes ie 180) Diesels with glow plugs need as much as possible of each to insure long battery life.

As ken said, deep cycle batteries handle charging then discharging to almost zero then back up without any problems. A standard lead acid battery will die fast if you fully flatten it then recharge it over and over.
The grease tool is: http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200130974_200130974

 

[mustang2105]

As ken said, deep cycle batteries handle charging then discharging to almost zero then back up without any problems. A standard lead acid battery will die fast if you fully flatten it then recharge it over and over.
The grease tool is: http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200130974_200130974

Well i finally got to play with machine. I disconnected fuel solenoid when the breaker popped. Wasn't the fuel solenoid. The breaker popped engine stayed running but hydrostatic locked and hydraulics locked. Can hydraulics or hydrostatic system be overheating to pop breaker? Engine is running at 180 degrees. I'm looking at schematic and see a safety control module It has 16 wires going to it. Does anyone know how to bypass this so i can get hydraulics working? thanks

 

[mustang2105]

Well i finally got to play with machine. I disconnected fuel solenoid when the breaker popped. Wasn't the fuel solenoid. The breaker popped engine stayed running but hydrostatic locked and hydraulics locked. Can hydraulics or hydrostatic system be overheating to pop breaker? Engine is running at 180 degrees. I'm looking at schematic and see a safety control module It has 16 wires going to it. Does anyone know how to bypass this so i can get hydraulics working? thanks

I forgot to say. It seems like i can get an hour or so out of machine before breaker pops. If i let it cool down i can get another hour from it. Seems to me like something is getting hot and cause and overload. THis machine has many solenoids in it. Do you think it's a solenoid overheating?

 

[skidsteer.ca]

I forgot to say. It seems like i can get an hour or so out of machine before breaker pops. If i let it cool down i can get another hour from it. Seems to me like something is getting hot and cause and overload. THis machine has many solenoids in it. Do you think it's a solenoid overheating?

What else is on that circuit? One or more of those functions is overloading your breaker or you have a short in your wire harness.
Try eliminating them one at a time by switching them onto another power supply. Make up a temp supply that is fused of course and keep narrowing it down.
ken

 

[skidsteer.ca]

I forgot to say. It seems like i can get an hour or so out of machine before breaker pops. If i let it cool down i can get another hour from it. Seems to me like something is getting hot and cause and overload. THis machine has many solenoids in it. Do you think it's a solenoid overheating?

Has nothing to do with hyd oil temp, but a hot soilinoid could be a sign of a short or drawing ecessive current.
Ken