hydraulics problem

[little_fellow]

I'd also check power to the connectors at the module, if that is there, move on to the wires to the coils and switches on the sticks.
For the sticks and coils, i'd use the meter to check for resistance. As there will be little to no power at these points, resistance is what you want to check. I'd remove the connector and probe from connector to connector and see if the wires are all good.
It's a shame i'm so far away, i have a 763 with a controller that i need to get to work on, but it's not going to happen just yet. If you can find someone that would let you test controllers, that would be a real help.

I've got power from the fuse wire to the module and I've got power from the bics controller to the module. I then used the ohm meter to probe for power going to the sticks and to the coils. My ohm meter starts off at 1.0 ohm with nothing hooked up to it and when I connect it, I get 0.575 ohm between the module and the hand control. I do get readings but I think this is like Tazza said earlier that the wiring itself would create resistance. I'm saying this because I get the same reading on the ohm meter with the power on as I do with the power off.

 

[little_fellow]

I've got power from the fuse wire to the module and I've got power from the bics controller to the module. I then used the ohm meter to probe for power going to the sticks and to the coils. My ohm meter starts off at 1.0 ohm with nothing hooked up to it and when I connect it, I get 0.575 ohm between the module and the hand control. I do get readings but I think this is like Tazza said earlier that the wiring itself would create resistance. I'm saying this because I get the same reading on the ohm meter with the power on as I do with the power off.

I should have read the instruction for using the ohm meter before actually doing the resistance test. It says there shouldn't be any power going through the wires while doing the test. I had the key on and the switches activated. Oh well Hopefully I didn't do any more damage. I don't think a have any power after the module though. Besides the resistance test, is there any other test that can be performed to find out if there is power after the control module? Tazza, you are saying there is very little power going through the wires past the module?

 

[Tazza]

I should have read the instruction for using the ohm meter before actually doing the resistance test. It says there shouldn't be any power going through the wires while doing the test. I had the key on and the switches activated. Oh well Hopefully I didn't do any more damage. I don't think a have any power after the module though. Besides the resistance test, is there any other test that can be performed to find out if there is power after the control module? Tazza, you are saying there is very little power going through the wires past the module?

I believe there won't be much power going through those wires as the controller switches relays to provide power to the coils.
I'm thinking worst case, you can by-pass the module and use relays to power the coils. I thought they ran at a lower voltage than 12 to prevent burning them out. It is all doable, but best if you can work out what the issue is with yours.
Hopefully the meter is fine, that's the only reason they don;t want power on while doing a test. It can damage the meter, i won't hurt the other stuff you ere testing.

 

[little_fellow]

I believe there won't be much power going through those wires as the controller switches relays to provide power to the coils.
I'm thinking worst case, you can by-pass the module and use relays to power the coils. I thought they ran at a lower voltage than 12 to prevent burning them out. It is all doable, but best if you can work out what the issue is with yours.
Hopefully the meter is fine, that's the only reason they don;t want power on while doing a test. It can damage the meter, i won't hurt the other stuff you ere testing.

Well it looks like it wasn't the module after all. I was checking the wiring harness yesterday and I don't know if there was a bad connection somewhere but just by moving it around seems to have solved the problem. Also while doing this, I noticed a fusible link in the wire going to the coils from the module. I did look this one over very carefully but it seemed fine. Was I ever happy to see that grapple go up and down . Thanks everyone for your help. Chow.

 

[Tazza]

Well it looks like it wasn't the module after all. I was checking the wiring harness yesterday and I don't know if there was a bad connection somewhere but just by moving it around seems to have solved the problem. Also while doing this, I noticed a fusible link in the wire going to the coils from the module. I did look this one over very carefully but it seemed fine. Was I ever happy to see that grapple go up and down . Thanks everyone for your help. Chow.

Finally, the mystery has been solved. Glad it wasn't the control module.

 

[little_fellow]

Finally, the mystery has been solved. Glad it wasn't the control module.

Turns out I didn't quite solve the problem yet. It started acting up again while I was working with it. I think my problem is in the auxiliary switch itself and not in the hand control switch. Here's the story. After working the grapple for awhile, I had to lift the seat bar to get off and when I went to resume operation seat bar down, aux. hydraulic switch in, (light indicator came on) and nothing happened while activating the hand control. This is how I got it to work again. While keeping the hand control on, I deactivated and reactivated the aux. hydraulic switch back and forth several times and finally the grapple started working. This did happen a few times after with the same remedy. Any ideas on how I can fix this. Chow.

 

[Tazza]

Turns out I didn't quite solve the problem yet. It started acting up again while I was working with it. I think my problem is in the auxiliary switch itself and not in the hand control switch. Here's the story. After working the grapple for awhile, I had to lift the seat bar to get off and when I went to resume operation seat bar down, aux. hydraulic switch in, (light indicator came on) and nothing happened while activating the hand control. This is how I got it to work again. While keeping the hand control on, I deactivated and reactivated the aux. hydraulic switch back and forth several times and finally the grapple started working. This did happen a few times after with the same remedy. Any ideas on how I can fix this. Chow.

I'm not convinced that it is the switch if you say you had to enable and disable the aux a few times to get it to work.....
Do they work in either direction when it stops? not just one direction not working? can you hear the oil going over the relief?

 

[little_fellow]

I'm not convinced that it is the switch if you say you had to enable and disable the aux a few times to get it to work.....
Do they work in either direction when it stops? not just one direction not working? can you hear the oil going over the relief?

The hand control switch seems to work fine. I should have said the button to activate the auxiliary is what a suspect is acting up.

 

[little_fellow]

The hand control switch seems to work fine. I should have said the button to activate the auxiliary is what a suspect is acting up.

I lost everything again. My auxiliary don`t even try to come on again. I checked my wiring with a fine tooth comb and everything seems intact. I really don't know where to look next. I should probably start over from the beginning. The fusible link raises question and I'm thinking on a temporary bypass just to put my mind at ease. Maybe a ground. The fuses are good.

 

[Tazza]

I lost everything again. My auxiliary don`t even try to come on again. I checked my wiring with a fine tooth comb and everything seems intact. I really don't know where to look next. I should probably start over from the beginning. The fusible link raises question and I'm thinking on a temporary bypass just to put my mind at ease. Maybe a ground. The fuses are good.

Are all the fuse holders in good shape too? they can get corrosion on them that prevents power getting through.

 

[little_fellow]

Are all the fuse holders in good shape too? they can get corrosion on them that prevents power getting through.

I'll have to check.

 

[little_fellow]

I'll have to check.

I'm reopening this old post. Never did solve the problem. I've checked the hand controls with a ohm meter and I get o resistance when activated. I checked the coils by removing them and applying voltage from a separate source and they do magnetize. I checked for voltage going to the coils and I get little voltage(about .45 volt for one connector and 1.07 volt on the other). When the connectors are connected, the coils do not magnetize. I get similar low voltage when I probe at the hand controls. I am wondering if even though the two light in the dash do come on when activated, is it possible the wiring immediately after the light could have come loose?

 

[Tazza]

I'm reopening this old post. Never did solve the problem. I've checked the hand controls with a ohm meter and I get o resistance when activated. I checked the coils by removing them and applying voltage from a separate source and they do magnetize. I checked for voltage going to the coils and I get little voltage(about .45 volt for one connector and 1.07 volt on the other). When the connectors are connected, the coils do not magnetize. I get similar low voltage when I probe at the hand controls. I am wondering if even though the two light in the dash do come on when activated, is it possible the wiring immediately after the light could have come loose?

The lights on the dash are just indicators from the control module, no wires exit to do anything.
I'm still thinking your issue is the control module that controls the aux hydraulics.
I had to re-wire a 751 that had a fire, the aux harness was damaged so i re-wired it.
Do you have a manual with a wiring diagram? you can trace the wires to see where the signals are lost.
As the lights are on the dash, i would assume the module is getting power, either it's not getting a signal from the switch or the relay in the module is bad.

 

[little_fellow]

The lights on the dash are just indicators from the control module, no wires exit to do anything.
I'm still thinking your issue is the control module that controls the aux hydraulics.
I had to re-wire a 751 that had a fire, the aux harness was damaged so i re-wired it.
Do you have a manual with a wiring diagram? you can trace the wires to see where the signals are lost.
As the lights are on the dash, i would assume the module is getting power, either it's not getting a signal from the switch or the relay in the module is bad.

Do you know how much voltage I should be getting before and past the module?

 

[little_fellow]

The lights on the dash are just indicators from the control module, no wires exit to do anything.
I'm still thinking your issue is the control module that controls the aux hydraulics.
I had to re-wire a 751 that had a fire, the aux harness was damaged so i re-wired it.
Do you have a manual with a wiring diagram? you can trace the wires to see where the signals are lost.
As the lights are on the dash, i would assume the module is getting power, either it's not getting a signal from the switch or the relay in the module is bad.

Great advice. Thanks Tazza. I took the wiring diagram and wrote down on a piece of paper all the wire colors coming from the control module and what they do. Tomorrow after work I'm going to trace the wires and see what I can find.

 

[little_fellow]

The lights on the dash are just indicators from the control module, no wires exit to do anything.
I'm still thinking your issue is the control module that controls the aux hydraulics.
I had to re-wire a 751 that had a fire, the aux harness was damaged so i re-wired it.
Do you have a manual with a wiring diagram? you can trace the wires to see where the signals are lost.
As the lights are on the dash, i would assume the module is getting power, either it's not getting a signal from the switch or the relay in the module is bad.

Can anyone tell me if I should I be getting a clicking sound when I activate the auxiliary switch?

 

[little_fellow]

The lights on the dash are just indicators from the control module, no wires exit to do anything.
I'm still thinking your issue is the control module that controls the aux hydraulics.
I had to re-wire a 751 that had a fire, the aux harness was damaged so i re-wired it.
Do you have a manual with a wiring diagram? you can trace the wires to see where the signals are lost.
As the lights are on the dash, i would assume the module is getting power, either it's not getting a signal from the switch or the relay in the module is bad.

Can anyone tell me if I should be getting power coming out of the aux. hydraulic module? I know that I have power coming into the module from the fuse wire but I don't seem to have power coming back out from any of the other prongs connected to the module.

 

[Tazza]

Can anyone tell me if I should be getting power coming out of the aux. hydraulic module? I know that I have power coming into the module from the fuse wire but I don't seem to have power coming back out from any of the other prongs connected to the module.

Sorry, not sure on voltages.
The switch on the handle should click. The newer model ones have vairable aux hydraulic that uses a POT not a switch.
One thing, what happens if you pull the trigger? this is a different switch that will engage constant flow. It is just to try and see if the issue is the thumb switch or not.
You will only get power out of the module when the aux is running i believe.
Try the trigger, see if you get power to one of the coils.

 

[little_fellow]

Sorry, not sure on voltages.
The switch on the handle should click. The newer model ones have vairable aux hydraulic that uses a POT not a switch.
One thing, what happens if you pull the trigger? this is a different switch that will engage constant flow. It is just to try and see if the issue is the thumb switch or not.
You will only get power out of the module when the aux is running i believe.
Try the trigger, see if you get power to one of the coils.

Thank you Tazza. I will have to do more testing. The last time I checked there didn't seem to be hardly any voltage going to the switch on the handles or to the coil as well. I have to try and pinpoint where the voltage is being lost. How about the auxiliary switch in the dash? Can anyone tell me if it's suppose to make a clicking noise when you engage it? I do not get a clicking sound when I engage that one. According to the electrical diagram all the wiring from that switch come from the module. I am wondering if that could be an indication pointing at the problem. If it's not suppose to click then that will put my mind at ease as far as that goes.

 

[Tazza]

Thank you Tazza. I will have to do more testing. The last time I checked there didn't seem to be hardly any voltage going to the switch on the handles or to the coil as well. I have to try and pinpoint where the voltage is being lost. How about the auxiliary switch in the dash? Can anyone tell me if it's suppose to make a clicking noise when you engage it? I do not get a clicking sound when I engage that one. According to the electrical diagram all the wiring from that switch come from the module. I am wondering if that could be an indication pointing at the problem. If it's not suppose to click then that will put my mind at ease as far as that goes.

The dash switch doesn't click. Press it to get the lights to come on then the module under the seat does the rest.
The lights on the dash are just that, lights (LEDs) and a push button, no relays, that is under the seat too.