'99 773G Getting It Started Help

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BobWhacked1

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May 23, 2016
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Have a 773G previously owned by a Rental Group. 3800 hrs Engine (Kubota v2203e) inoperable: dropped Glo Plg tip in #1 cyl, Blown head gasket, bit of a mess, alternator was a wreck. Rental guys obviously did what ever they could to keep it in rentable shape, wired it to bypass BICS, etc. i.e. ran one 10 gauge wire off Batt + to a relay and spliced it into 5 or 6 hyd solenoids then back to the relay box in front of the seat. Sooo...I disconnected hyd drive lines, rolled it 200 yds to shop, up on jack stands, tore it down, body in good shape for being 17 yrs old,...engine: honed cylinders pretty close to spec.,all new rings, new #1 piston, new oil pump, new starter+glo plgs, new muffler, new 1-wire alternator. Aligned gear timing marks per service manual. There was no original BICS Controller behind seat nor a seat sensor.The mechanical foot brake wiring connector has no connection to harness. The LCD monitors show a seat bar issue. Both LCD monitors were working, now right one(with the key switch) does not light up, but when I turn the ign key, it cranks hard, blows smoke and almost turns over but just won't DO IT! Have put a Tablespoon of oil in each glo plg hole (nothing) tried a shot of ether(clunked some, won't do that again) Cold compression test shows: #1 360-#2 390 #3 400 #4 490 admittedly a wide range, but would that keep it from turning over as opposed to just running rough? From what I've been reading on the FORUM, you guys have a lot of experience with these machines, I COULD SURE USE SOME GOOD ADVICE ON THIS ONE! Thanks.
 

Bobcatdan

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May 3, 2012
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1,684
It try it with the drive belt off. If the steering is way out of adjustment that it's running against the brake or the aux is stuck on, it will create too much load for the engine to crank over fast enough. As for your wiring, it it right, but a new harness.
 
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BobWhacked1

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May 23, 2016
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It try it with the drive belt off. If the steering is way out of adjustment that it's running against the brake or the aux is stuck on, it will create too much load for the engine to crank over fast enough. As for your wiring, it it right, but a new harness.
BobcatDan: Thanks for the quick reply. I will go down this pm and give it a try. Would a dealership have access to an electrical schematic specific to my Serial #. This machine doesn't seem to have a lot of the bells & whistles that other schematics point to. And are they readable, where I don't need a 2000 power magnifier??
 

Tazza

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Dec 7, 2004
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BobcatDan: Thanks for the quick reply. I will go down this pm and give it a try. Would a dealership have access to an electrical schematic specific to my Serial #. This machine doesn't seem to have a lot of the bells & whistles that other schematics point to. And are they readable, where I don't need a 2000 power magnifier??
I'm not loving those compression figures, they are all over the place. I'd check that the valve clearance is right then re-check it.
 
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BobWhacked1

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May 23, 2016
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I'm not loving those compression figures, they are all over the place. I'd check that the valve clearance is right then re-check it.
I went w/Bobcat Dan's suggestion and removed the main Drive Belt and then tried another start. Once again it cranked hard, blew smoke and wouldn't turn over after 20 seconds. I agree with you TAZ in that I have been wondering if the timing is off or the valve clearances need to be re-visited. Its like something just isn't in synch and if one of those things or both is off it would account for the low compression and lack of a strong start. When I put the engine back together I used the service manual instructions for both the setting of the timing gears and the valve clearances. Hate to think I would have to pull this engine again.
 

Tazza

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I went w/Bobcat Dan's suggestion and removed the main Drive Belt and then tried another start. Once again it cranked hard, blew smoke and wouldn't turn over after 20 seconds. I agree with you TAZ in that I have been wondering if the timing is off or the valve clearances need to be re-visited. Its like something just isn't in synch and if one of those things or both is off it would account for the low compression and lack of a strong start. When I put the engine back together I used the service manual instructions for both the setting of the timing gears and the valve clearances. Hate to think I would have to pull this engine again.
Hopefully it's something simple, start with the easy stuff, the valve clearance.
Even check the push rods, ensure they are still straight.
 

7LBSSMALLIE

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Feb 2, 2012
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Hopefully it's something simple, start with the easy stuff, the valve clearance.
Even check the push rods, ensure they are still straight.
shes 180 out. timining these is bitch. its like 200 rev to get marks to line up. scrach yorure head crack a beer and retime.
 
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BobWhacked1

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May 23, 2016
Messages
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shes 180 out. timining these is bitch. its like 200 rev to get marks to line up. scrach yorure head crack a beer and retime.
Yeh, I did check the push rods, appeared to be straight and true. Well I guess its back to the timing. I have a military genset and the timing was the issue. NO FUN THERE! Buttons and calculations. Thanks guys I'll stay in touch and monitor this thread.
 
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