Going to pick up an old 632

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Ster1

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Feb 8, 2022
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It looks like it might be from the '80s or even a bit older. 4 cylinder gasser. Ford, from what I can google about it. No bucket, bald tires, seized engine. What is it worth? I don't know anything about it yet. I'd like to know why the engine is seized. Did it overheat / crack / leak water inside or did rainwater get in, or what, I don't know just yet, I'll post up as soon as I do. My plan would be to buy it, rebuild the engine and sell it. I see these are going for 6-7K at auction. It even looks like parts are still available? I just sold an old Allis Chalmers with the exact same issue, so I got a oil stained spot in my shop for this thing. That old AC was an easy inframe. This one is going to have to come out for sure. Anyway, I'm babbling. What are your thoughts? The guy's asking 2500, and I think he's dreaming.
 
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Ster1

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60 views and no replies. Crickets. Oh well, I'll just talk to myself then. I brought it home, and as far as the starter is concerned, the motor was locked. I mixed up some 50/50 acetone and ATF, and dumped some into each cylinder, and left it for a few days. I tried again today, hooked it up to my jump pack, and yep stuck. The starter couldn't budge it, but a big a$$ pipe wrench on the pulley sure could! Had to work it back n forth a couple times, but I got her spinning. Tried the starter again, and it cranked for awhile. Long enough for oil pressure to build, and to see the hydraulics were at least trying to work. Next up is a new battery and a compression check.
 

foton

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since you got that far I would just for your own knowledge borrow or buy a inspection camera ,pull the plugs and take a look. maybe you will get lucky and it be ok, did you see why it locked up ? A compression test on each cylinder might give you a hint (blown head gasket ,valves not set correctly) but with it you will know if it is gonna burn lotsa oil . good luck
 

brdgbldr

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You can email Bobcat with the serial number and they will tell you. what year it came off the line.
I had an old 742 pretty much the same machine with bigger axels and chains.1.6 liter ford industrial engine retrofit for propane. It was a good little machine and I believe I sold it for about $4000 but that was back around 2010 when we were still in a recession. The only thing I did not like about it was the one piece axels. If you need to replace an axel seal you have to completely remove the chain case to pull the axels.
 

Fabricator

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I've got a 630 with the Wisconsin engine. It's a good little machine for around the property. What was the final price the seller agreed to?
 
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Ster1

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I've got a 630 with the Wisconsin engine. It's a good little machine for around the property. What was the final price the seller agreed to?
I offered 1500, he wanted 2K. It took an hour and a half to get there, and he had an excavator to plop on my trailer, so I forked it over.
 
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Ster1

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I put a scope in there before I poured oil in it, and I'm be damned if I can figure out why it seized. The water jacket holds pressure, so no evidence of coolant leaks. I saw no damage to the bores, also. Now that the oil's mostly out, I could look again. I dunno yet, I'm kinda befuddled. The distributor has been taken off, so maybe it stopped because of no spark, and nobody got it back running again, and it just got slightly stuck? Grasping at straws at the moment. It's a work in progress :)
 

foton

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you never know you might get lucky but I guess you will need to start it to find out. if it uses points are you converting to a electronic ing.? I have heard points on some of those engines can be a pain to keep in adjustment.
 

maxamy

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Jun 21, 2022
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I'm right there with you (almost) I just bought a 610 ($1500) no bucket and not running... Mine isn't seized up though... I started with spark and got spark at the plugs then started with fire and a head gasket was blown so that's where I am now... I'll deal with each problem til I'm digging or selling :)
FYI there is a guy close to me (Southern Virginia) with a Wisconsin 30 HP engine for sale for $250 ????
 

Hotrod1830

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Sep 14, 2010
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At $2K your probably still OK on price as long as everything else looked OK. I paid about that for one that had a hole in the block, but visually you could tell it was a well maintained machine. They just could'nt find an engine for it.

You mentioned you used a bore scope and saw no damage in the cylinders. You can try pouring a penetrating oil (wd-40) into the cylinders and letting it sit for a few days and try the starter(plugs removed), and see if it breaks lose. Otherwise, better remove it and pull it apart and take a look.
Parts are still available, as the 1.6l Ford was used in the Ford Pinto. If you need gaskets, or long block parts( pistons, piston rings, bearing, ect..) , The pinto parts can be used. The camshaft, intake, exhaust manifold and oil pan are Bobcat specific.
 

craigb93

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Nov 9, 2010
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Pinto pistons, ring sets, etc MAY work. The 632 is actually a Ford Kent English Engine. The chain driven cam is in the block. Pinto is OHV also but the cam is on the head and belt driven.
Supply your Serial # and the company below can supply most engine hard parts. Not so much on accessory parts.
Jensales
200 Main Street, Manchester, Minnesota 56007-5000
 

Wayne440

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The early Pinto used the 1.6 Kent engine, not sure what year. Many parts interchange with the industrial engine.
 
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Ster1

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Thanks guys for all the input, that's all great to know! I didn't make a lot of progress today. I put a new battery in, hoping to get a compression test done, but the engine sure didn't crank over very fast. Maybe I got a bad starter or cable or something like that. It's still on my trailer in my driveway with a tire off the rim. Before I can roll it off the trailer, it's gotta be able to roll, so tomorrow is going to be spent dealing with tires. On these older machines, it's actually not that hard to get them to roll. I'll just drag it off the trailer with a forklift and get it in the shop, and start tearing apart that motor.
 
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Ster1

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Hah! I found out why the engine was turning over so slowly. One of the pedals was stuck and I was trying to do a compression check while lifting the boom. Rookie mistake. I got the machine in the shop now, and can hopefully make some progress. It's going to go on the back burner for a little bit though. I have to do the revenue impacting work first. I have an International service truck that has needed a new ring gear for a year or so now, and I have the part, so that job has to come first, but as soon as that old turkey's done, I'm back on the bobcat.
 
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Ster1

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I had a chance to play with it some more. Even when all the hydraulics are not impeding movement, it still doesn't crank very fast. Anyway, I am thinking that engine needs to come out. My compressions are 120, 90, 40, 120. All blowing by the rings. Ugh. I knew that was a possibility, but I was hoping I'd get lucky. Weird thing is, even with those compressions, Id expect it to run... kinda. I tried feeding it straight starter fluid, and it wouldn't run on it's own. Just kept "almost" running. Heh. I topped off the water, and that only took a half gallon, and it's been under pressure all morning. I scoped the cylinders again, and no water is in there. So, at least I have that going for me. No cracks. I can take off the head, and pull the pan, and get the pistons and rods out, I believe. Maybe all it needs is rings, and I don't have to pull the block. Stay tuned :)
 

spitzair

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Dec 17, 2009
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Make sure your auxiliary hydraulics aren't engaged - move your right steering lever left and right to make sure it's not in detent, this will deadhead your hydraulics and make the engine turn over real slow.
If you do end up tearing into the engine do yourself a favor and pull it out, 4 bolts and a few coolant hoses, a few wires and out she comes. It'll give you an opportunity to inspect your U-joint too, and believe me you'll want to make sure it's in good condition! If it fails you're going to have tons of problems. I assume you've already checked your valve clearances and set your timing correctly? Also set your points properly, these things are very fussy in that department and they just won't run properly if the points aren't set perfectly. It'd be well worth the investment to get an electronic ignition kit for it. I agree, with those compressions it should run...
 

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