River Fluid Power
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- Aug 18, 2022
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- 107
It is not likely you'd be able to turn the pump by hand. You would definitely need leverage, or a kung-fu grip.
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Nice start and run.. I struggled with my 632 engine but finally overcame all the gremlins.
That's gorgeous man! Are you rebuilding a 632 also?
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- Dec 17, 2009
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That doesn't sound too terrible to me, are you still running points and a condenser? If so that could be the cause of the slight roughness… I switched mine over to a Pertronix solid state ignition and it runs so much smoother. Glad you got it running! Oh and by the way not trying to be difficult but that is a KSG416, the 411 is a 1.1L engine found in the 532…
I'm running points. It smoothed out quite a bit once installed and let run a while. Maybe those rings needed a little time to seat, or maybe it likes being under load. It runs that skiddy just fine - plenty of power. Thanks for the tip on the name! I've made the proper corrections to my little youtube deal.
Yes it is a 632. Everything was dark in that engine hole so I repainted the white engine compartment and used some color on the engine while rebuilding it. Makes it easier to see in there now.
It would no longer run, no compression. I found so much wrong, and worn, I'm surprised it had ran this long. I worked on the engine off and on for a year and it runs nice and smooth now.
Son started a retaining wall project at his house this week.
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Nice work Randy!
I went to the shop today because I was bored and fired up the 632 to put it through its paces. As soon as I lifted the boom, it started struggling and almost seeming to jam up. I shut it down and found one of those hard lines in the engine compartment blown, and oil everywhere. It was one that ran next to the battery mount, and it had years of dirt and stuff packed in there. Since those are steel lines, and dirt holds moisture… pop. Oh well. I can fix it, no big deal. What I also noticed is my gland nut on one of the lift cylinders leaking. I went to take it off, and stripped it right away. Are those gland nuts / cylinder caps aluminum? Aluminum caps on a steel cylinder? Never seen such a thing! Those have been on there for almost 40 years. Those threads have got to be all corroded like crazy. I'm going to have to weld aluminum blocks to the gland nuts and make a wrench out of a piece of bar to get those off. Geez.
I went to the shop today because I was bored and fired up the 632 to put it through its paces. As soon as I lifted the boom, it started struggling and almost seeming to jam up. I shut it down and found one of those hard lines in the engine compartment blown, and oil everywhere. It was one that ran next to the battery mount, and it had years of dirt and stuff packed in there. Since those are steel lines, and dirt holds moisture… pop. Oh well. I can fix it, no big deal. What I also noticed is my gland nut on one of the lift cylinders leaking. I went to take it off, and stripped it right away. Are those gland nuts / cylinder caps aluminum? Aluminum caps on a steel cylinder? Never seen such a thing! Those have been on there for almost 40 years. Those threads have got to be all corroded like crazy. I'm going to have to weld aluminum blocks to the gland nuts and make a wrench out of a piece of bar to get those off. Geez.
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- Dec 17, 2009
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Pretty sure they're aluminum, I have a new one sitting in my shop waiting to go onto one of my 732s when I get a chance, one got buggered up before I bought the machine by some enthusiastic individual with a pipe wrench and when they put the cylinder back together they never got the gland all the way in, plus it's starting to leak pretty good too… anyway I'll check what it's made out of when I get back home tonight if I don't forget.
Yes, they are aluminum.. I have already resealed my right cyl. I did that during that time that the engine was out. I did not do the left side right then as the machine was somewhat up against a wall where I had it setting. I had no corrosion on the right side, but it was very tight to break loose.
I started doing the left side yesterday as I got the machine back from my son. I have not got it loose yet, but more ideas today. Must run right now, more on it later today.
I am working on the cyl while still on machine, to keep it stationary. Not getting the gland nut off with some pretty large equipment, I stopped and 3D printed a sleeve to clamp to the shaft. The idea is to keep a spanner wrench level and engaged as much as I can. A friend stopped by and said he had access to much better wrenches in his shop at work that he can barrow. I am on hold until he is back this week. The bugger is tight.
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brdgbldr
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As a last resort, a large pipe wrench will get it loose. It will however leave teeth marks and looks very unprofessional. But sometimes drastic measures are necessary.
I agree... I'm kind of saving that for the last resort. It has to come off, but not right away. I have time if need be. My pal has a plan of attack. He used to do them at his job as a commercial plant mechanic.
I have a 632 had it for 7 years. strong motor. It will run OK for days say about 5 hours, then I have to have the choke out at least 3/4 to make it run. Then I can go out and it will not need the choke out? Has electric fuel pump as well as mechanical. Electronic ignition conversion. Clean fuel filters and I have even replaced the fuel shut off valve. When it does this I disconnect the fuel line and fuel is coming out if I disconnect the line at the valve. Also running it with the fuel cap off does not change it when it needs the choke on.
if it is running good with the choke out that generally means it is running lean , so it is not getting enough fuel and the carb float level is what I would look at first. get a kit for the carb first and go ahead and replace servicable parts .
Cool idea about the 3d printed sleeve. I used a big azz pipe wrench on it today and boogered it all to hell. Didn't budge either. I think maybe a fixed pin spanner would be needed to get that nut off. My pin spanner is a pretty big one, and I've used it with lots of other cylinders, but it's adjustable, so there's a little flex in it, and that's probably the problem here. The holes in the nut are now trashed, so really my only option left is to weld some chunks of aluminum on there and either use the pipe wrench on that or slot a piece of steel bar to fit and try that way.
Yes, A fixed pin wrench is what he is after. We measured it to have 1/4 inch pins on 2 inch centers. He says we will put a lot of pressure on the wrench ( cheater pipe )and then use an air chisel ( hammer bit ) to vibrate the wrench in an unwinding direction. I guess that is an often used method they use on their machinery at his work. I do have a heavy duty Snap On air chisel, hope it comes loose. Sorry to hear yours is still stuck.
