Bobcat 630 Reclamation

[peebeeaitch]

Nice progress.
The seals, where did you get the seal kit from? most kits come with extras so they will cover different pump setups. The kit i got had extras, as did other kits i got for different branded pumps.
As long as you remembered the O rings for the hydraulic pump and the ones on the inlet and outlet fittings, you can't go wrong. The only other seal you have dealt with already, the main input shaft one. There are metal gaskets for between pump sections, but you can't easily forget those.
You have done the right thing, take an old one, match it with a newie.
How much trouble did you have putting the rotating groups in? a lot of people get stuck with the pins that hold the curved spacer that you slide the shaft on to. A dab of thick grease makes them stay in place.

My seal kit came from LoaderPartsSource. I have not replaced the fitting o-rings yet, that may explain things. I'll let the thread know if I find locations for the o-rings.
I was thinking about it and I wonder if the baggy isn't for the vane pump with integral relief port (see this manual, page 13).
Your question about the pins worries me. I have read many posts on this forum about the "three pins". I have also read many times about the grease, and I thought I was prepared, and hence, was not surprised to find the job quite easy. I looked things over before starting and this is how I reassembled things (please excuse the crude models, I don't really want to strip the pump to take photos). This is modelled without the foot ring and pistons, side view:

and this is somewhat what it looks like before sliding it onto the shaft:

Obviously my pins are a little on the large size in the model, but I hope you get the idea. Is this correct?

 

[Tazza]

My seal kit came from LoaderPartsSource. I have not replaced the fitting o-rings yet, that may explain things. I'll let the thread know if I find locations for the o-rings.
I was thinking about it and I wonder if the baggy isn't for the vane pump with integral relief port (see this manual, page 13).
Your question about the pins worries me. I have read many posts on this forum about the "three pins". I have also read many times about the grease, and I thought I was prepared, and hence, was not surprised to find the job quite easy. I looked things over before starting and this is how I reassembled things (please excuse the crude models, I don't really want to strip the pump to take photos). This is modelled without the foot ring and pistons, side view:

and this is somewhat what it looks like before sliding it onto the shaft:

Obviously my pins are a little on the large size in the model, but I hope you get the idea. Is this correct?

That is exactly how they are meant to sit. Good to hear it went together easily, before i used grease, it took me a few goes to get the shaft in without the pins moving on me. The newer ones actually have a metal retainer to hold them in place, so grease was not needed

 

[peebeeaitch]

That is exactly how they are meant to sit. Good to hear it went together easily, before i used grease, it took me a few goes to get the shaft in without the pins moving on me. The newer ones actually have a metal retainer to hold them in place, so grease was not needed

23 Feb 2013
First Saturday off in I don't know how long. Decided the motor should come out. I had been waiting for this, as one of the things I intended to do was install a supplementary alternator on the universal side of the motor. More on this later. I had prepared myself, mentally, for the task. I was sure I was ready. A quick trip to work to fab the motor carrier, for which I'd been scrounging wood, and I was sure I would have this waxed before third coffee.
The beast in the bay:

Before I loosened the bolts, I contemplated the job. Then I saw this:

In a previous post I wrote about arrogance being the feeling just before monumental failure. I knew what awaited, and plenty of WD40, of praying, and effort did not loosen then bolts that I knew would be rusted into place - I have "opened" two wrenches getting these loose (a cheap 9/16's and an expensive 14mm):

Despite all sorts of non-destructive removal techniques, the bolts would not budge and eventually the one-way wrench (a cutting torch) was used.

During the removal process, the top left electrical "thingy" in the photo below was ripped off its aluminium base. I sort of banged it back together. I will need to find out what the thing does because there are two of them and one of them seems to be wired into the alternator (magneto). I plan to rewire the machine anyway so whatever it does can be upgraded. I hope.

This is what was left inside the almost stripped little machine:

More mulch, and more mulch removal tomorrow.
Ok, so I stripped off the universal. The intention was to fit a pulley to the motor side of the universal. This is really the only place that I can see to easily draw power from the motor without serious modification. The intention was to remove the motor interface section, accurately turn it down to accept a taper-lock and then fab a bracket to hold an alternator.
How does one get the thing off???? The largest of my 4 set of 3 puller jaws, under cranking and heat:

did absolutely nothing. I also pounded the coupling when cherry red to try and dislodge it, but nada movement.
These are the components that make up the universal after cleaning:

Notice that the spiders are different (I assume the newer one has the pathetic, narrower, broken binding strap on the bearings). jerry on 2 Jan suggested inspecting the u-joint intimately, which I hope I have done.
These are representative bearing races:

Dumbo doing the stripping (me) managed to get some solvent into the bearing cup of one of the newer bearings. So the rollers all fell out. 30 infuriating minutes later I had cleaned the cup and managed to get the rollers back:

I think this looks quite good. Also, there is very little play in the setup so I am not going to replace more parts.
I assembled the whole story and just when tightening the last Allen cap, this:

Zoom in to my mistake:

Note to others. The universal has a very slight taper on the bearing cup holder. Tighten both bolts evenly to pull the taper into the cup. Not doing so causes the effect on top left above, where the taper cocks in the cup.
Notice also in the photo two above that I have aligned the grease zerks. This is intentional. I know, with 100% certainty, that when I first want to grease the universal, that its orientation will be so that I cannot get to any one of them. But, at least I know that when, after hours of effort, I get to one, I should be able to get to the other. Hah!
So, there we are. Except:

Any ideas on how to remove the two rusted bolts. Drilling and helicoil seem to be the only solution, but perhaps there is someone else with a more elegant solution?

 

[jerry]

23 Feb 2013
First Saturday off in I don't know how long. Decided the motor should come out. I had been waiting for this, as one of the things I intended to do was install a supplementary alternator on the universal side of the motor. More on this later. I had prepared myself, mentally, for the task. I was sure I was ready. A quick trip to work to fab the motor carrier, for which I'd been scrounging wood, and I was sure I would have this waxed before third coffee.
The beast in the bay:

Before I loosened the bolts, I contemplated the job. Then I saw this:

In a previous post I wrote about arrogance being the feeling just before monumental failure. I knew what awaited, and plenty of WD40, of praying, and effort did not loosen then bolts that I knew would be rusted into place - I have "opened" two wrenches getting these loose (a cheap 9/16's and an expensive 14mm):

Despite all sorts of non-destructive removal techniques, the bolts would not budge and eventually the one-way wrench (a cutting torch) was used.

During the removal process, the top left electrical "thingy" in the photo below was ripped off its aluminium base. I sort of banged it back together. I will need to find out what the thing does because there are two of them and one of them seems to be wired into the alternator (magneto). I plan to rewire the machine anyway so whatever it does can be upgraded. I hope.

This is what was left inside the almost stripped little machine:

More mulch, and more mulch removal tomorrow.
Ok, so I stripped off the universal. The intention was to fit a pulley to the motor side of the universal. This is really the only place that I can see to easily draw power from the motor without serious modification. The intention was to remove the motor interface section, accurately turn it down to accept a taper-lock and then fab a bracket to hold an alternator.
How does one get the thing off???? The largest of my 4 set of 3 puller jaws, under cranking and heat:

did absolutely nothing. I also pounded the coupling when cherry red to try and dislodge it, but nada movement.
These are the components that make up the universal after cleaning:

Notice that the spiders are different (I assume the newer one has the pathetic, narrower, broken binding strap on the bearings). jerry on 2 Jan suggested inspecting the u-joint intimately, which I hope I have done.
These are representative bearing races:

Dumbo doing the stripping (me) managed to get some solvent into the bearing cup of one of the newer bearings. So the rollers all fell out. 30 infuriating minutes later I had cleaned the cup and managed to get the rollers back:

I think this looks quite good. Also, there is very little play in the setup so I am not going to replace more parts.
I assembled the whole story and just when tightening the last Allen cap, this:

Zoom in to my mistake:

Note to others. The universal has a very slight taper on the bearing cup holder. Tighten both bolts evenly to pull the taper into the cup. Not doing so causes the effect on top left above, where the taper cocks in the cup.
Notice also in the photo two above that I have aligned the grease zerks. This is intentional. I know, with 100% certainty, that when I first want to grease the universal, that its orientation will be so that I cannot get to any one of them. But, at least I know that when, after hours of effort, I get to one, I should be able to get to the other. Hah!
So, there we are. Except:

Any ideas on how to remove the two rusted bolts. Drilling and helicoil seem to be the only solution, but perhaps there is someone else with a more elegant solution?

The bearing surfaces of the spider do look good, the one I did felt tight but the rollers had worn grooves you could see and feel in the spider bearing surfaces. Did you put a dial indicator on the coupling ? How much runout is there where you would mount the drive pulley? Can you adapt a driver to the other end of the engine for the alt?

 

[Tazza]

The bearing surfaces of the spider do look good, the one I did felt tight but the rollers had worn grooves you could see and feel in the spider bearing surfaces. Did you put a dial indicator on the coupling ? How much runout is there where you would mount the drive pulley? Can you adapt a driver to the other end of the engine for the alt?

I like the one way spanner a good oxy torch is worth its weight in cold some times.
For the bolts, i'd try hitting them with a hammer first, then getting an old nut, slip it over the stub and weld the stub to the nut. This heats the bolt remains and also gives you a point to grab and try and un-screw it. It works most of the time, but not always. Another way that may be even better is to weld a bolt to the stub. When done, get a helper and one holds pressure on the bolt with a wrench, the other uses a coal shisel and strikes at the side of the weld point to try and shock the threads to break free. This one tends to work better, just go slow, not too much force on the bolt to start off with.
If that fails, a drill and tap is the only way.....

 

[HanSolo]

I like the one way spanner a good oxy torch is worth its weight in cold some times.
For the bolts, i'd try hitting them with a hammer first, then getting an old nut, slip it over the stub and weld the stub to the nut. This heats the bolt remains and also gives you a point to grab and try and un-screw it. It works most of the time, but not always. Another way that may be even better is to weld a bolt to the stub. When done, get a helper and one holds pressure on the bolt with a wrench, the other uses a coal shisel and strikes at the side of the weld point to try and shock the threads to break free. This one tends to work better, just go slow, not too much force on the bolt to start off with.
If that fails, a drill and tap is the only way.....

The two electrical "thingies" are over-temp cut off sensors. Those were on early M700 Wisconsin VH4D engines but deleted on later production units. I would assume that closing or opening the circuit causes the engine to stop. Should be easy to bypass. Your situation with the intake/exhaust manifold looks familiar. I was thinking about rebuilding the carb on my M700 but the bolts are completely rusted on the exhaust/muffler junction which prevents one from reaching the carb bolts on the intake. A poor design with inferior materials. But I doubt Bobcat ever envisioned these machines still running 40 or 50 years after manufacture.

 

[peebeeaitch]

The two electrical "thingies" are over-temp cut off sensors. Those were on early M700 Wisconsin VH4D engines but deleted on later production units. I would assume that closing or opening the circuit causes the engine to stop. Should be easy to bypass. Your situation with the intake/exhaust manifold looks familiar. I was thinking about rebuilding the carb on my M700 but the bolts are completely rusted on the exhaust/muffler junction which prevents one from reaching the carb bolts on the intake. A poor design with inferior materials. But I doubt Bobcat ever envisioned these machines still running 40 or 50 years after manufacture.

jerry, no, I have not put a run out on the coupling. At this point I'm starting to think of just tossing the idea. I don't know where I read this, or even why I remember it, but somewhere I thought it said that the motor worked on a magneto with a secondary charging circuit of about 5 amps, which would barely drive a cigarette lighter. Re-reading the electrical stuff today I see it is 25 amps so that is many cigarette lighters! This should allow me to be able to fit some decent lights and the other goodies I want to add. At this point, it seems, I will not need to fit another alternator.
Also, the piece of crankshaft extending from the rear of the motor does not extend past the housing - not that it would not be possible to fab something:

From what I can remember from the unexploded state, the housing is also very close to the oil cooler, which would prevent an easy hack here even if I were to extend the shaft.
Oh yes, and while I'm at it, the manual says one uses a "soft hammer" to loosen the flywheel off the taper shaft. Well neither a soft hammer, or a normal hardness hammer, removes my flywheel. So, if I ever need to remove it, it is likely that an engine rebuild might be called for.
Thanks for the suggestions though. I'll continue to mull over it.

 

[peebeeaitch]

jerry, no, I have not put a run out on the coupling. At this point I'm starting to think of just tossing the idea. I don't know where I read this, or even why I remember it, but somewhere I thought it said that the motor worked on a magneto with a secondary charging circuit of about 5 amps, which would barely drive a cigarette lighter. Re-reading the electrical stuff today I see it is 25 amps so that is many cigarette lighters! This should allow me to be able to fit some decent lights and the other goodies I want to add. At this point, it seems, I will not need to fit another alternator.
Also, the piece of crankshaft extending from the rear of the motor does not extend past the housing - not that it would not be possible to fab something:

From what I can remember from the unexploded state, the housing is also very close to the oil cooler, which would prevent an easy hack here even if I were to extend the shaft.
Oh yes, and while I'm at it, the manual says one uses a "soft hammer" to loosen the flywheel off the taper shaft. Well neither a soft hammer, or a normal hardness hammer, removes my flywheel. So, if I ever need to remove it, it is likely that an engine rebuild might be called for.
Thanks for the suggestions though. I'll continue to mull over it.

Thanks for the suggestion Tazza. I was thinking of welding a bolt on, but never heard or thought of the chisel. I'll try that next weekend.
A mate dropped by today (the one that pulled the pallet jacks) and I could see that he had the look of pity in his eyes: you know the type where someone knows something one is doing is hopeless but doesn't have the heart to break one's heart. He had no helpful suggestions except to enthusiastically agree with me that the bolts were probably fused into the manifold by this point.
But it's worth a shot.

 

[peebeeaitch]

Thanks for the suggestion Tazza. I was thinking of welding a bolt on, but never heard or thought of the chisel. I'll try that next weekend.
A mate dropped by today (the one that pulled the pallet jacks) and I could see that he had the look of pity in his eyes: you know the type where someone knows something one is doing is hopeless but doesn't have the heart to break one's heart. He had no helpful suggestions except to enthusiastically agree with me that the bolts were probably fused into the manifold by this point.
But it's worth a shot.

HanSolo: this is what I also thought.
But then, after a day's worth of crud cleaning, I was looking through the manuals as a distraction. I came across this:

Those thingys looked remarkably like my thingies. And, the wire dissappears in behind the cover I cannot get off because the "soft hammer" does not remove the flywheel:

Of course there is no description of the function of the blocks. A couple of pages later:

So, I now assume that the little blocks are the rectifier and regulator. I cannot confirm the accuracy of the sketch because I have not been able to remove the flywheel with the "soft hammer" - but it looks good as a sketch either way.
The manual provides this useful advice:

I am therefore in the market for an external rectifier/regulator after I managed to remove the operational part (black) from the aluminium part (silver) that is there to provide good heat removal. More importantly, does someone have the wiring diagram for the alternator (like wiring colour functions)? This will allow me to successfully fit the after-market part.

 

[peebeeaitch]

HanSolo: this is what I also thought.
But then, after a day's worth of crud cleaning, I was looking through the manuals as a distraction. I came across this:

Those thingys looked remarkably like my thingies. And, the wire dissappears in behind the cover I cannot get off because the "soft hammer" does not remove the flywheel:

Of course there is no description of the function of the blocks. A couple of pages later:

So, I now assume that the little blocks are the rectifier and regulator. I cannot confirm the accuracy of the sketch because I have not been able to remove the flywheel with the "soft hammer" - but it looks good as a sketch either way.
The manual provides this useful advice:

I am therefore in the market for an external rectifier/regulator after I managed to remove the operational part (black) from the aluminium part (silver) that is there to provide good heat removal. More importantly, does someone have the wiring diagram for the alternator (like wiring colour functions)? This will allow me to successfully fit the after-market part.

24 Feb 2013
So I started out trying to remove the flywheel with the "soft hammer". If this is a recurring phrase, it is because it was a recurring effort. I tried hitting the flywheel on the side, on the fins, in the centre, on the shaft (like the manual seems to show), on the casing, everywhere. Then I brought out the solid steel persuader, and tapped in all of the same places. Really, I did not loose my temper and give it a properly solid smack - I contained myself and ping pinged the thing. Nothing worked. So I gave up.
What awaited was worse. The mulch extraction. I have written in a previous post that I am sure that the machine has been a submarine at some point. Geologists make their living (I am told) by looking through the history of the earth through various layers. My geology project is a Bobcat that ended its past life in my garage, before which it was used to load mulch, before which it was used in a forestry operation, before which it was in a river. I know it was a river because of the river stones trapped in the clay layer above the factory paint. Before that it was made. This is all visible in the layers.
The one good thing about the clay under all of the mulch is that it has provided a fantastic corrosion barrier (this paint is still shiny):

I don't own a compressor for spraying anymore otherwise I'd give it a coat.
I also, as said somewhere above, started looking through the wiring and made some interesting discoveries. I think I have spoken a lifetime ago about the oil pressure gauge moving. This is the wiring behind the aftermarket panel:

The orange wire runs to the oil pressure gauge. Next to it, without wire, is the charging voltage gauge. The orange wire, in my harness, leads to the "thingy's" spoken of previously. So, the oil pressure gauge showes charging voltage and the charging voltage gauge showes nothing.
I also found this remnant somewhere in the engine mulch:

Before the fuel storage on my unit was upgraded to a Jerry Can with custom solder outlet and direct carburetor supply, this little critter must have figured in the schematic. I cannot find reference to it in any of the motor blowups in my manual so can only come to the conclusion that it was an after-market addition that was bypassed before the machine came my way.
Now I'm going to start purchasing the various parts that I need to get the machine functional again. I have stripped almost everything I want/need to. The only thing remaining untouched are the wheel bearings, which look and feel great.

 

[Tazza]

24 Feb 2013
So I started out trying to remove the flywheel with the "soft hammer". If this is a recurring phrase, it is because it was a recurring effort. I tried hitting the flywheel on the side, on the fins, in the centre, on the shaft (like the manual seems to show), on the casing, everywhere. Then I brought out the solid steel persuader, and tapped in all of the same places. Really, I did not loose my temper and give it a properly solid smack - I contained myself and ping pinged the thing. Nothing worked. So I gave up.
What awaited was worse. The mulch extraction. I have written in a previous post that I am sure that the machine has been a submarine at some point. Geologists make their living (I am told) by looking through the history of the earth through various layers. My geology project is a Bobcat that ended its past life in my garage, before which it was used to load mulch, before which it was used in a forestry operation, before which it was in a river. I know it was a river because of the river stones trapped in the clay layer above the factory paint. Before that it was made. This is all visible in the layers.
The one good thing about the clay under all of the mulch is that it has provided a fantastic corrosion barrier (this paint is still shiny):

I don't own a compressor for spraying anymore otherwise I'd give it a coat.
I also, as said somewhere above, started looking through the wiring and made some interesting discoveries. I think I have spoken a lifetime ago about the oil pressure gauge moving. This is the wiring behind the aftermarket panel:

The orange wire runs to the oil pressure gauge. Next to it, without wire, is the charging voltage gauge. The orange wire, in my harness, leads to the "thingy's" spoken of previously. So, the oil pressure gauge showes charging voltage and the charging voltage gauge showes nothing.
I also found this remnant somewhere in the engine mulch:

Before the fuel storage on my unit was upgraded to a Jerry Can with custom solder outlet and direct carburetor supply, this little critter must have figured in the schematic. I cannot find reference to it in any of the motor blowups in my manual so can only come to the conclusion that it was an after-market addition that was bypassed before the machine came my way.
Now I'm going to start purchasing the various parts that I need to get the machine functional again. I have stripped almost everything I want/need to. The only thing remaining untouched are the wheel bearings, which look and feel great.

You need a rattle can to touch up the engine bay if you don't have a compressor to paint it.
The only way i have found to get a fly wheel off like that is a puller and strike the screw that is doing all the pushing. Generally they pop free, but you get some that just refuse to budge. Some times you are lucky to lever one side with a bar and smack the snout of the crank to get it to pop free, i don't really like doing that as you are putting load on the internal engine components.

 

[peebeeaitch]

You need a rattle can to touch up the engine bay if you don't have a compressor to paint it.
The only way i have found to get a fly wheel off like that is a puller and strike the screw that is doing all the pushing. Generally they pop free, but you get some that just refuse to budge. Some times you are lucky to lever one side with a bar and smack the snout of the crank to get it to pop free, i don't really like doing that as you are putting load on the internal engine components.

Ha ha. It's amazing how sometimes the most obvious things are forgotten when one stares at the problem for too long. The rattle cans are the obvious solution and I cannot for the life of me think why I forgot about them. Guess what I'm doing on Saturday...
On the flywheel - I am sort of thinking that I don't really have to have it off. I'll store the suggestion and if I REALLY need to do it I'll follow your advice - thanks.

 

[Tazza]

Ha ha. It's amazing how sometimes the most obvious things are forgotten when one stares at the problem for too long. The rattle cans are the obvious solution and I cannot for the life of me think why I forgot about them. Guess what I'm doing on Saturday...
On the flywheel - I am sort of thinking that I don't really have to have it off. I'll store the suggestion and if I REALLY need to do it I'll follow your advice - thanks.

I really don't like using them all that much, but there are times it's so much easier.
I too would only pull the flywheel if you must, no sense messing with it unless it's a last resort.

 

[melli]

I really don't like using them all that much, but there are times it's so much easier.
I too would only pull the flywheel if you must, no sense messing with it unless it's a last resort.

Peebee - loving your descent in madness...looks like 'fun'....coming from someone without a garage. Great pics and story to go with it. I don't know what that flywheel is made of, but I've found tack welding stuff (in your case, gear puller or two long threaded bolts, then a piece of metal with three holes etc etc.) onto something, helps in removal...then it is easy to grind off tack weld...that is, if it must come off.

 

[peebeeaitch]

Peebee - loving your descent in madness...looks like 'fun'....coming from someone without a garage. Great pics and story to go with it. I don't know what that flywheel is made of, but I've found tack welding stuff (in your case, gear puller or two long threaded bolts, then a piece of metal with three holes etc etc.) onto something, helps in removal...then it is easy to grind off tack weld...that is, if it must come off.

Thanks melli. I was thinking of referencing your post (What does this do?) at some point, but I'm embarrassed to admit that after hours of solvent and cleaning, no part of my machine will ever look like yours.
Thanks for the tacking idea. Never crossed my mind. If I ever need to remove the "soft hammer" flywheel, I'm going to use your suggestion.
On a slightly different note, I'm going to make sure that if I ever get any of these sticky parts loose and there is an option of drilling and tapping a jacking screw in there to make subsequent removal easier, I'll take the time.

 

[melli]

Thanks melli. I was thinking of referencing your post (What does this do?) at some point, but I'm embarrassed to admit that after hours of solvent and cleaning, no part of my machine will ever look like yours.
Thanks for the tacking idea. Never crossed my mind. If I ever need to remove the "soft hammer" flywheel, I'm going to use your suggestion.
On a slightly different note, I'm going to make sure that if I ever get any of these sticky parts loose and there is an option of drilling and tapping a jacking screw in there to make subsequent removal easier, I'll take the time.

It looks cleaner every pic you post. Since I am usually not in rush to slap it back together after tearing little pieces off, I will spray paint anything that doesn't look newish. I have a half dozen spray paint cans at the ready.... Need to find Kubota blue... Looking forward to more posts and pics...........btw - when you used the 'hotsy', did it do a good job? I just have a regular pressure washer, and all it seems to do is spread the grease around. Good at taking off the dirt on undercarriage, but that is about it.

 

[peebeeaitch]

It looks cleaner every pic you post. Since I am usually not in rush to slap it back together after tearing little pieces off, I will spray paint anything that doesn't look newish. I have a half dozen spray paint cans at the ready.... Need to find Kubota blue... Looking forward to more posts and pics...........btw - when you used the 'hotsy', did it do a good job? I just have a regular pressure washer, and all it seems to do is spread the grease around. Good at taking off the dirt on undercarriage, but that is about it.

The Hotsy was incredible at removing years off goop. I have a regular cold washer and you're right that it simply moves the black grease from the spot it was to the spot you just cleaned. The Hotsy takes it from the spot it was to the ground.
However, note to others. A Hotsy in the first chill of the winter is basically a diesel and electrically powered steam generator (see photo 1 - this was before I really tackled the important stuff in the operators area) . So, spray really hot water into an enclosed space, see explosion of "mist", wait 20 seconds for the fog to clear, discover that you've resprayed the area sprayed before, aim carefully, pull trigger. Repeat.
Even degreaser left for 5 mins, 10 mins, 2 hours and overnight with a cold washer did not do what the borrowed Hotsy did in 3/4 hour.
I'm waiting for a clown on eBay to not know what they're selling and offer it for a stupid price...

 

[peebeeaitch]

The Hotsy was incredible at removing years off goop. I have a regular cold washer and you're right that it simply moves the black grease from the spot it was to the spot you just cleaned. The Hotsy takes it from the spot it was to the ground.
However, note to others. A Hotsy in the first chill of the winter is basically a diesel and electrically powered steam generator (see photo 1 - this was before I really tackled the important stuff in the operators area) . So, spray really hot water into an enclosed space, see explosion of "mist", wait 20 seconds for the fog to clear, discover that you've resprayed the area sprayed before, aim carefully, pull trigger. Repeat.
Even degreaser left for 5 mins, 10 mins, 2 hours and overnight with a cold washer did not do what the borrowed Hotsy did in 3/4 hour.
I'm waiting for a clown on eBay to not know what they're selling and offer it for a stupid price...

2 Mar 2013
Spent the late night ordering parts for the coming re-assembly. More money than I care to spend and I think I have the electrical stuff ordered.
I am still lost as to the wiring for the external regulator and rectifier. I have looked at more sights than I can remember looking for instructions on how to buzz out the system, without success. I will, for the moment, wait on this and continue the mechanical assembly.
3 Mar 2013
After learning to MIG/MAG I decided to try my hand at TIG. Of course, the chap that was teaching me helped out by choosing really thick pieces of material to learn on. I forgot this morning that steel that is used as a airflow director is probably quite thin (the weight should have been obvious as well). To make things worse, the crack I was repairing was in very rusted (equals missing thickness) steel.
I started off confidently and was quite pleased with the results through the helmet. I was less pleased with the results without the helmet. The soft glow I was seeing in the helmet was the puddle of molten metal that had fallen through the massive hole I had successfully burned in the cover. Ok, so the short version is that I managed to, sort of, sort it out:

This is the painted, reassembled part. (Other side of the plate not shown for reasons of pride).
This is the motor with painted covers re-installed:

I couldn't find a welder today so the manifold to silencer bolts are still there waving at me.
While at it, I grabbed the sand paper, spray bottle and elbow and set out getting the engine bay semi-decent:

I cannot re-install the motor till I get the new engine vibration mounts. To the best of my ability, I have measured the mounts and I think they're all the same - pump, ROPS and motor.
This is what I've bought:

(I got them from here - including complimentary LED light) as the search for Bobcat Part #6560633 yielded only vastly over priced second hand results.
I decided that I now had had enough of explosion and wanted to start the re-assembly. As this whole sop story has started with the motors and the chaincase still waited, I decided to clean it out. A couple of litres of "Zecol Parts Cleaning Mineral Spirits Solvent" were dumped in the chain case. A swish around and the suck bucket, plus some (rolls of) "Scott Shop Towels" gave me this:

Honestly, the Suck Bucket can take credit for 95% of this. It really is an amazing tool.
Right. A motor wiggled in and the chain cleaned and re-wrapped around the front sprocket. Master link sprayed (as per the manual and someone on this forum who suggested it) and inserted, and crestfallen despair.
I have seen before on cheap chain links, where the studds are marginally short, that one cannot get the lock plate on. I didn't want to struggle inside the chain case where space is a bit limited so decided to check what the master link was like on the other chain:

How am I supposed to get the lock tab on?
This is the marking on the chain (a question I asked a while ago and confidently answered):

So, yes, a Bobcat 630 does use a #60 chain. However, the "H" stands for "Heavy". Heavy chains use a link plate thickness from the chain size above (a fact discovered on the net) - to quote:
"Heavy Series chains are not necessarily stronger than Standard Series chains, but the thicker link plate material provides an increase in fatigue resistance for those drives subjected to heavy shock loads, multiple stops/starts or reversing."
This comes from here.
I have ordered the "Heavy Series Chain Link"...

 

[Tazza]

2 Mar 2013
Spent the late night ordering parts for the coming re-assembly. More money than I care to spend and I think I have the electrical stuff ordered.
I am still lost as to the wiring for the external regulator and rectifier. I have looked at more sights than I can remember looking for instructions on how to buzz out the system, without success. I will, for the moment, wait on this and continue the mechanical assembly.
3 Mar 2013
After learning to MIG/MAG I decided to try my hand at TIG. Of course, the chap that was teaching me helped out by choosing really thick pieces of material to learn on. I forgot this morning that steel that is used as a airflow director is probably quite thin (the weight should have been obvious as well). To make things worse, the crack I was repairing was in very rusted (equals missing thickness) steel.
I started off confidently and was quite pleased with the results through the helmet. I was less pleased with the results without the helmet. The soft glow I was seeing in the helmet was the puddle of molten metal that had fallen through the massive hole I had successfully burned in the cover. Ok, so the short version is that I managed to, sort of, sort it out:

This is the painted, reassembled part. (Other side of the plate not shown for reasons of pride).
This is the motor with painted covers re-installed:

I couldn't find a welder today so the manifold to silencer bolts are still there waving at me.
While at it, I grabbed the sand paper, spray bottle and elbow and set out getting the engine bay semi-decent:

I cannot re-install the motor till I get the new engine vibration mounts. To the best of my ability, I have measured the mounts and I think they're all the same - pump, ROPS and motor.
This is what I've bought:

(I got them from here - including complimentary LED light) as the search for Bobcat Part #6560633 yielded only vastly over priced second hand results.
I decided that I now had had enough of explosion and wanted to start the re-assembly. As this whole sop story has started with the motors and the chaincase still waited, I decided to clean it out. A couple of litres of "Zecol Parts Cleaning Mineral Spirits Solvent" were dumped in the chain case. A swish around and the suck bucket, plus some (rolls of) "Scott Shop Towels" gave me this:



Honestly, the Suck Bucket can take credit for 95% of this. It really is an amazing tool.
Right. A motor wiggled in and the chain cleaned and re-wrapped around the front sprocket. Master link sprayed (as per the manual and someone on this forum who suggested it) and inserted, and crestfallen despair.
I have seen before on cheap chain links, where the studds are marginally short, that one cannot get the lock plate on. I didn't want to struggle inside the chain case where space is a bit limited so decided to check what the master link was like on the other chain:

How am I supposed to get the lock tab on?
This is the marking on the chain (a question I asked a while ago and confidently answered):

So, yes, a Bobcat 630 does use a #60 chain. However, the "H" stands for "Heavy". Heavy chains use a link plate thickness from the chain size above (a fact discovered on the net) - to quote:
"Heavy Series chains are not necessarily stronger than Standard Series chains, but the thicker link plate material provides an increase in fatigue resistance for those drives subjected to heavy shock loads, multiple stops/starts or reversing."
This comes from here.
I have ordered the "Heavy Series Chain Link"...

Nice progress, can't help you with the master link, mine just slid on without any issues....
What did the rubber vibration boots cost you? the last lot i got were pretty expensive from the dealer.....

 

[peebeeaitch]

Nice progress, can't help you with the master link, mine just slid on without any issues....
What did the rubber vibration boots cost you? the last lot i got were pretty expensive from the dealer.....

Tazza, they were $7.16 each. Not cheap, but cheaper than $9.54 for used ones I found on another site.
Here are a couple of comparitive shots (the original bush is the best one I could find on the machine, from under one of the pump mounts):

The big difference is that the new ones don't feel like slightly frozen snot when one picks them up. Another small difference between the two is the thickness of the bolt spacer tube which on the after market one is quite a bit thinner than on the original. I don't think this will matter as I'm not going to be putting a tommy bar on the socket when tightening.