Bobcat 630 Reclamation

[peebeeaitch]

11 Jan 2013
"Used, good condition, 1/4" drive, external Torx E10 deep socket" arrives. Said deep socket does not fit.
12 Jan 2013
Remebering that the sockets I'd seen online, featuring a 12!! point system, fit almost all variations of bolt head shapes, I headed out to the store. Of course, the sets which contained 1/4" drive, 12 socket sets were sold out and after 1 hour of scrumaging, the only way I could find to get a 12!! point 5/16" socket was to buy the set - mind you, on special.
13 Jan 2013
Biblical hangover from the suprise birthday party. No progress.

19 Jan 2013
Clearly I needed a press, the sprocket had to come off. Speaking to the chaps at work, they strongly advised against getting a press from a company that imports very inexpensive tools. They suggested I buy a quality item that would last for years. But, they could not guess if 6, 12, 20 or 50 tons would beenough to remove the sporcket from the motor.
I decided to buy an inexpensive, inferior quality press that I now know will not last for years. Simultaneously, I bought a "4 set of 3 puller jaws" set of gear pullers. For the uniformed, that is 4 gear pullers with 3 jaws each. Also, inexpensive.
20 Jan 2013
The set of 4 3 jaw pullers were put to the test removing the sprocket. This failed.
The 12 ton press, and LARGE bearing clam shell I had also bought, were put to the test:

This was after 12 hours under pressure - I had hung on the pressarm and imagine the pressing force to be close to 15-20 tons. Sprocket 1: Press, and clamshell, 0.
The chaps at work used a quality gear puller, quality gas, quality 200lb sledge hammer and managed to remove the sprocket. Fearing that the other sprocket would also resist, I took it in as well and now it is: Sprocket 1: Huge effort: 2.

 

[peebeeaitch]

19 Jan 2013
Clearly I needed a press, the sprocket had to come off. Speaking to the chaps at work, they strongly advised against getting a press from a company that imports very inexpensive tools. They suggested I buy a quality item that would last for years. But, they could not guess if 6, 12, 20 or 50 tons would beenough to remove the sporcket from the motor.
I decided to buy an inexpensive, inferior quality press that I now know will not last for years. Simultaneously, I bought a "4 set of 3 puller jaws" set of gear pullers. For the uniformed, that is 4 gear pullers with 3 jaws each. Also, inexpensive.
20 Jan 2013
The set of 4 3 jaw pullers were put to the test removing the sprocket. This failed.
The 12 ton press, and LARGE bearing clam shell I had also bought, were put to the test:

This was after 12 hours under pressure - I had hung on the pressarm and imagine the pressing force to be close to 15-20 tons. Sprocket 1: Press, and clamshell, 0.
The chaps at work used a quality gear puller, quality gas, quality 200lb sledge hammer and managed to remove the sprocket. Fearing that the other sprocket would also resist, I took it in as well and now it is: Sprocket 1: Huge effort: 2.

27 Jan 2013
I have spoken of the score lines. I decided that I should strip the other motor to see if the score lines were also present.
Score lines:

The score lines are not present in the other motor. So, I am guessing that short of buying another motor, I will need to surface grind the bearing housing?
Now, on to another point. The manual is great at describing the explosion of the motor. The official Eaton repair manual is useless at assembly and the pamphlet included in the seal kit is the final straw in causing absolute confusion:

The O-ring kit:

To clarify. Perhaps someone on the list can explain to me how to measure an O-ring, amongst 4 of roughly the same size, of 88.62mm (ID), with a rubber diameter of <2mm. How about a "Seal, O-ring, All, 6.07[.239], ID". It becomes a process of elimination. Look at all seals. Separate into size. Look at picture, and sort micron sizes and match to picture, match numbers. The picture is pretty good though in explaining where the o rings go. The manual is pathetic with this (specifically the small o-rings).
Eventually, 1 motor re-assembled.
On to the control valve and these score lines in the auxillary spool:

Is this normal? This is the auxillary. I have not checked the tilt and lift.
On to the pump. Eventually I got to the brass plate, and this is what I found:

Can these be surface ground out? Should I do what Tazzza suggested in another post and put them on glass with a very fine sand-paper?
Any help appreciated.

 

[Tazza]

27 Jan 2013
I have spoken of the score lines. I decided that I should strip the other motor to see if the score lines were also present.
Score lines:

The score lines are not present in the other motor. So, I am guessing that short of buying another motor, I will need to surface grind the bearing housing?
Now, on to another point. The manual is great at describing the explosion of the motor. The official Eaton repair manual is useless at assembly and the pamphlet included in the seal kit is the final straw in causing absolute confusion:

The O-ring kit:

To clarify. Perhaps someone on the list can explain to me how to measure an O-ring, amongst 4 of roughly the same size, of 88.62mm (ID), with a rubber diameter of <2mm. How about a "Seal, O-ring, All, 6.07[.239], ID". It becomes a process of elimination. Look at all seals. Separate into size. Look at picture, and sort micron sizes and match to picture, match numbers. The picture is pretty good though in explaining where the o rings go. The manual is pathetic with this (specifically the small o-rings).
Eventually, 1 motor re-assembled.
On to the control valve and these score lines in the auxillary spool:


Is this normal? This is the auxillary. I have not checked the tilt and lift.
On to the pump. Eventually I got to the brass plate, and this is what I found:


Can these be surface ground out? Should I do what Tazzza suggested in another post and put them on glass with a very fine sand-paper?
Any help appreciated.

Not loving the scores from where the geroler star ran. How deep is the groove?
Is this the trouble motor? It may stull run ok, just not as well as it probably should. You can probably remove a bit of it with glass and sand paper, but not sure how deep you will have to go.
Same with the wear plate, if the scores are too deep, you may need another plate. Normally the scores aren't too deep unless there has been major pump failure.
Well done on the write up too, i did have a good laugh a faw times Especially the chain breaker, pretty and the functional ones, i totally agree there!

 

[peebeeaitch]

Not loving the scores from where the geroler star ran. How deep is the groove?
Is this the trouble motor? It may stull run ok, just not as well as it probably should. You can probably remove a bit of it with glass and sand paper, but not sure how deep you will have to go.
Same with the wear plate, if the scores are too deep, you may need another plate. Normally the scores aren't too deep unless there has been major pump failure.
Well done on the write up too, i did have a good laugh a faw times Especially the chain breaker, pretty and the functional ones, i totally agree there!

The Geroler groove is deeper than "fingernail". It's really difficult to judge, but it's enough that I stripped the other motor to see if it had the same groove, which it does not.
My manual says that the rear pump drives the left side and the front pump the right. The picture of the wafer plate is from the rear pump. I need to purchase a circlip plier to explode the front pump, so cannot comment on it yet. It would appear that currently I have identified a leaky rear pump driving good right motor, and a possibly good front pump driving a leaky left motor. The leaky rear pump (right motor) seems to be less leaky than the left motor, hence the PO saying that the right side was good.
I am truly worried about the wafer plate. The grroves there are probably double the depth of the motor ones. It's also uneven, meaning there are numerous concentric score lines, at arbitrary diameters and then a really deep "pocket" just outside the port slots. The colour of the brass is shiny in the pocket, not like the other scores, meaning, I think, that it is fresh.
I will take a photo tonight of the rear of the pump housing. There is a circlip holding I don't know what. The aluminium that forms the body of the housing between the circlip and the U-joint has been eaten away. I wonder if something is pressing the whole hydraulic pump forward and perhaps causing the parts to score the wafer plate?

 

[Tazza]

The Geroler groove is deeper than "fingernail". It's really difficult to judge, but it's enough that I stripped the other motor to see if it had the same groove, which it does not.
My manual says that the rear pump drives the left side and the front pump the right. The picture of the wafer plate is from the rear pump. I need to purchase a circlip plier to explode the front pump, so cannot comment on it yet. It would appear that currently I have identified a leaky rear pump driving good right motor, and a possibly good front pump driving a leaky left motor. The leaky rear pump (right motor) seems to be less leaky than the left motor, hence the PO saying that the right side was good.
I am truly worried about the wafer plate. The grroves there are probably double the depth of the motor ones. It's also uneven, meaning there are numerous concentric score lines, at arbitrary diameters and then a really deep "pocket" just outside the port slots. The colour of the brass is shiny in the pocket, not like the other scores, meaning, I think, that it is fresh.
I will take a photo tonight of the rear of the pump housing. There is a circlip holding I don't know what. The aluminium that forms the body of the housing between the circlip and the U-joint has been eaten away. I wonder if something is pressing the whole hydraulic pump forward and perhaps causing the parts to score the wafer plate?

It's possible it is what caused the scratch on the motor and hopefully was caught by the filter.
Looks like a new wear plate is in order, personally i'd clean up and put the motors back together but note the scratched one. The amount of fluid that goes through the motors and where that score is, you may not really notice the internal leakage. If it was on the outside parts of the geroler star and the rollers, then you have a problem as this is where all the work happens.
I have had a machine with a bashed up alloy housing where the shaft comes into the pump, not sure why it was that way though. I doubt pressure there would cause the score. If it did, the entire face would be marked, not just the inner part. The rotating groups are spring loaded so they should have taken up the extra force if it was applied.
Check the rotating group, look at the piston shoes, are the sides sharp at all? and flakes hanging off them? If so, get some sand paper and sand the sharp pieces off. This way you will prevent the metal pieces falling off and going through the system.
I forgot about the aux spool, no idea why it is worn like it is. When you put it back in, see if it moves smooth, if not, rotate it 180 degrees and see if it is better. It is possible there is a slight bend in the spool, but there really shouldn't be.

 

[peebeeaitch]

It's possible it is what caused the scratch on the motor and hopefully was caught by the filter.
Looks like a new wear plate is in order, personally i'd clean up and put the motors back together but note the scratched one. The amount of fluid that goes through the motors and where that score is, you may not really notice the internal leakage. If it was on the outside parts of the geroler star and the rollers, then you have a problem as this is where all the work happens.
I have had a machine with a bashed up alloy housing where the shaft comes into the pump, not sure why it was that way though. I doubt pressure there would cause the score. If it did, the entire face would be marked, not just the inner part. The rotating groups are spring loaded so they should have taken up the extra force if it was applied.
Check the rotating group, look at the piston shoes, are the sides sharp at all? and flakes hanging off them? If so, get some sand paper and sand the sharp pieces off. This way you will prevent the metal pieces falling off and going through the system.
I forgot about the aux spool, no idea why it is worn like it is. When you put it back in, see if it moves smooth, if not, rotate it 180 degrees and see if it is better. It is possible there is a slight bend in the spool, but there really shouldn't be.

Thanks for the feedback Tazza.
This is the rear of the housing:

Now that I look at it, it looks worse than I thought. I have no idea if this is OK, medium or poor. The fact that it has probably been like this for yonks probably means I can take a chance, especially when most of the other stuff is (hopefully) sorted?
I am thinking of getting a new wear plate. I am first going to strip the front pump though and check and, if necessary, save the $6 on the purchase price of $100000000. Every little bit helps. On that note, any pointers on cost? I have a price of $87 from Highway and Heavy Parts for the 6598478 part.
We have a surface grinder at work. The one chap there has offered to skim the face of the motor for a beer. Is this a good idea?
I looked at the feet of the rotating pistons. They are sharp, but don't have burrs - they feel like a well sharpened knife without the burr. But I will knock them off as well.
While investigating the rotating group I did find this:

Notice the scores on the rotating group!!! I would take the thing apart and, for another beer, have him skim this. But, I can see a spring there that is able to contain nuclear fusion. I am afraid that if I release that circlip all sorts of loud, dangerous, painful and time-consuming things are going to happen. Is it worth it?
The spool feel fine in either orientation. I am more concerned with the actual scratches. I think, though, that the fact that the lift and tilt functions perform well enough to scare me means that things are probably ok in that department.

 

[Tazza]

Thanks for the feedback Tazza.
This is the rear of the housing:

Now that I look at it, it looks worse than I thought. I have no idea if this is OK, medium or poor. The fact that it has probably been like this for yonks probably means I can take a chance, especially when most of the other stuff is (hopefully) sorted?
I am thinking of getting a new wear plate. I am first going to strip the front pump though and check and, if necessary, save the $6 on the purchase price of $100000000. Every little bit helps. On that note, any pointers on cost? I have a price of $87 from Highway and Heavy Parts for the 6598478 part.
We have a surface grinder at work. The one chap there has offered to skim the face of the motor for a beer. Is this a good idea?
I looked at the feet of the rotating pistons. They are sharp, but don't have burrs - they feel like a well sharpened knife without the burr. But I will knock them off as well.
While investigating the rotating group I did find this:


Notice the scores on the rotating group!!! I would take the thing apart and, for another beer, have him skim this. But, I can see a spring there that is able to contain nuclear fusion. I am afraid that if I release that circlip all sorts of loud, dangerous, painful and time-consuming things are going to happen. Is it worth it?
The spool feel fine in either orientation. I am more concerned with the actual scratches. I think, though, that the fact that the lift and tilt functions perform well enough to scare me means that things are probably ok in that department.

That wear in the housing looks like the fitting from the engine pushed a little too far forward is all, don't be too worried about it.
The problem with the surface grinder is, how fine of a finish will it give you? I'd be happy with the 1 beer price if it was nice and smooth at the end Hopefully not much needs to come off as it will also make the O ring groove not as deep, hopefully that won't be an issue though.
I would advise against removing the spring. You need some threaded rod and nuts to hold it back, it's under a bit of pressure. I believe it is just a spring and washer, this is to apply a set amount of force onto the wear plate, nothing more, noting special in here.
I got my wear plates from Steve at metro fluid power http://pumps-motors-valves.com/ Not sure you should tell him that i gave you his details, the price may double
Quote him the pump model, and the direction of the marks in it. Not sure if he can cross reference Bobcat numbers though.

 

[SkidRoe]

That wear in the housing looks like the fitting from the engine pushed a little too far forward is all, don't be too worried about it.
The problem with the surface grinder is, how fine of a finish will it give you? I'd be happy with the 1 beer price if it was nice and smooth at the end Hopefully not much needs to come off as it will also make the O ring groove not as deep, hopefully that won't be an issue though.
I would advise against removing the spring. You need some threaded rod and nuts to hold it back, it's under a bit of pressure. I believe it is just a spring and washer, this is to apply a set amount of force onto the wear plate, nothing more, noting special in here.
I got my wear plates from Steve at metro fluid power http://pumps-motors-valves.com/ Not sure you should tell him that i gave you his details, the price may double
Quote him the pump model, and the direction of the marks in it. Not sure if he can cross reference Bobcat numbers though.

The surface grinder sounds like the way to go. The finish should be fine, even if it isn't, give it a rub with wet/dry sand paper on a pice of glass to finish it up.
Biblical hangover - ROFL!! The thing that I can't get used to as I get older, is that the amount of beverages taken to get biblical levels seems to reduce every year. And the recovery time seems to be increasing also....

 

[mahans7]

The surface grinder sounds like the way to go. The finish should be fine, even if it isn't, give it a rub with wet/dry sand paper on a pice of glass to finish it up.
Biblical hangover - ROFL!! The thing that I can't get used to as I get older, is that the amount of beverages taken to get biblical levels seems to reduce every year. And the recovery time seems to be increasing also....

PB, thanks for all the pics, it makes it a lot easier for me to understand what you're doing.

 

[peebeeaitch]

PB, thanks for all the pics, it makes it a lot easier for me to understand what you're doing.

Tazza: thanks for the information. I spent a couple of hours trying to find the pump model and now assume it to be a Vickers (Eaton) TA1919 V1010 (see this manual). I did not mention your name It's infuriating that there is no identification plate on the pump.
So your advice is the leave the rotating group as is? Or flat them? I saw your post (2008 post with pictures) but I'm not going to order new groups.
SkidRoe: I'm leaning toward the surface grinder as I've generally had great results with them. The one beer wonder chap at work is a perfectionist so I think that if there is a chance to rescue this, he'll be the one to get it right. I tend to agree on the recovery time you mention - the problem I had that evening was a colleague's wife who kept on feeding me Margaritas (that stuff is absolutely lethal). That, combined with a couple of beers, left me a babbling wreck on Saturday evening and a growling ogre on Sunday morning.
mahans7: Pleasure with the pics. I had a rough time visualising some of the components and so I hope this helps someone else. Also, if something goes wrong I hope the visual record may help me later again. Also, the scale of some of the components is much easier to see in a photo than looking in a manual.

 

[peebeeaitch]

Tazza: thanks for the information. I spent a couple of hours trying to find the pump model and now assume it to be a Vickers (Eaton) TA1919 V1010 (see this manual). I did not mention your name It's infuriating that there is no identification plate on the pump.
So your advice is the leave the rotating group as is? Or flat them? I saw your post (2008 post with pictures) but I'm not going to order new groups.
SkidRoe: I'm leaning toward the surface grinder as I've generally had great results with them. The one beer wonder chap at work is a perfectionist so I think that if there is a chance to rescue this, he'll be the one to get it right. I tend to agree on the recovery time you mention - the problem I had that evening was a colleague's wife who kept on feeding me Margaritas (that stuff is absolutely lethal). That, combined with a couple of beers, left me a babbling wreck on Saturday evening and a growling ogre on Sunday morning.
mahans7: Pleasure with the pics. I had a rough time visualising some of the components and so I hope this helps someone else. Also, if something goes wrong I hope the visual record may help me later again. Also, the scale of some of the components is much easier to see in a photo than looking in a manual.

3 Feb 2012
Today I finished the hydraulic stripping and got down to the front pump wear plate:

These grooves are nowhere close to the back pump in depth, but nowhere close to what the manual says is acceptable. So, I am on the hunt for two wear plates - Tazza's supplier is in the running as is the other site I found.
However, there is an elephant in the room. Actually, 2.
Elephant 1:

I haven't cleaned this valve block yet as I assumed I'd do it with the service/inspection. The other elephant is the vane pump.
I cannot find a reference on the servicing or repair of these items in the manual. I looked for a Vickers manual online but the only reference I could find for this number:

was this manual, which didn't help.
I am convinced that I need to check the vane pump. Whatever steel grinding flakes went into the motors and swash pumps would probably have made a trip through the vane pump. They could also still be lodged in the various ports in the valve block:

Any suggestions?

 

[Tazza]

3 Feb 2012
Today I finished the hydraulic stripping and got down to the front pump wear plate:


These grooves are nowhere close to the back pump in depth, but nowhere close to what the manual says is acceptable. So, I am on the hunt for two wear plates - Tazza's supplier is in the running as is the other site I found.
However, there is an elephant in the room. Actually, 2.
Elephant 1:

I haven't cleaned this valve block yet as I assumed I'd do it with the service/inspection. The other elephant is the vane pump.
I cannot find a reference on the servicing or repair of these items in the manual. I looked for a Vickers manual online but the only reference I could find for this number:

was this manual, which didn't help.
I am convinced that I need to check the vane pump. Whatever steel grinding flakes went into the motors and swash pumps would probably have made a trip through the vane pump. They could also still be lodged in the various ports in the valve block:

Any suggestions?

Not sure about the rotating groups, they are very hard, not sure if they would have marked. Most of the wear should have been the brass/steel wear plates.
I think i have a manual on the pump, look up my profile and send me an e-mail.
Checking the vane pump isn't a bad idea, they are pretty simple. Just keep the vanes in the same direction as they came out! They wear and will have a slight bevel on them, keel it all the same when it goes back in. Slight scores inline with rotation is ok, if there are bumps worn into it, that is not so good. Vanes are great at taking up wear, but if the path is not smooth like a good road it will loose contact and you will have decreased flow, much like a repaired road, with bumps.

 

[peebeeaitch]

Not sure about the rotating groups, they are very hard, not sure if they would have marked. Most of the wear should have been the brass/steel wear plates.
I think i have a manual on the pump, look up my profile and send me an e-mail.
Checking the vane pump isn't a bad idea, they are pretty simple. Just keep the vanes in the same direction as they came out! They wear and will have a slight bevel on them, keel it all the same when it goes back in. Slight scores inline with rotation is ok, if there are bumps worn into it, that is not so good. Vanes are great at taking up wear, but if the path is not smooth like a good road it will loose contact and you will have decreased flow, much like a repaired road, with bumps.

17 Feb 2013
The household goods container arrived on Fri so spent this morning trying to sort out my huge collection of metric tools into a tool chest, and similarly trying to arrange my miniscule collection of Imperial tools into a space which looks larger than the metric section. Epic fail.
Re-assembled the right motor. Strange how the manual seems clearer on some items the second time around and vaguer on others. Anyway, the lack of clarity probably means that one motor will work and the other not.
I was hoping that the motor could be pulled today, but NAFI (no ambition, ... interest) set in, so I decided to strip the vane pump.
The manual glibly states:

I have, on several occassions now, noticed that single sentences in the manual, combined by no associated picture usually require special tools. These tools also require patience and a 5-axis machining centre. Anyway, the remove the pump from the block requires a socket, less than 44mm OD, with a square key that crosses the centreline, 1/4" x 1/4" - imagine a screwdriver that's tip is 44mm wide and has a "blade" that is 6.35mm thick and at least 6.35mm deep).
So, I couldn't clean the block and continued on. Tazza kindly supplied the manual for the rest of the pump, but the vane pump section is missing. Here is the model:

After trawling the internet for a very long time, I found this manual (courtesy of Metro Fluid Power): Manual for Sperry Vickers V100 Series Pumps
This is what it looks like internally, including some re-assembly sequence (memory) shots:

I think that the thing looks OK'ish. Tazza, in the mail above, warned me about the chatter, which I think is present, though not excessive (I can't feel it with any fingernail):

Tazza in the mail above warned me about the circumferential wear. I think this is it:

It also, is not "feelable" so I think this is a simple get seals and re-assemble.
Jeez, I hope I get some time next week to work on getting the parts together instead of more apart...

 

[Zorack]

17 Feb 2013
The household goods container arrived on Fri so spent this morning trying to sort out my huge collection of metric tools into a tool chest, and similarly trying to arrange my miniscule collection of Imperial tools into a space which looks larger than the metric section. Epic fail.
Re-assembled the right motor. Strange how the manual seems clearer on some items the second time around and vaguer on others. Anyway, the lack of clarity probably means that one motor will work and the other not.
I was hoping that the motor could be pulled today, but NAFI (no ambition, ... interest) set in, so I decided to strip the vane pump.
The manual glibly states:

I have, on several occassions now, noticed that single sentences in the manual, combined by no associated picture usually require special tools. These tools also require patience and a 5-axis machining centre. Anyway, the remove the pump from the block requires a socket, less than 44mm OD, with a square key that crosses the centreline, 1/4" x 1/4" - imagine a screwdriver that's tip is 44mm wide and has a "blade" that is 6.35mm thick and at least 6.35mm deep).
So, I couldn't clean the block and continued on. Tazza kindly supplied the manual for the rest of the pump, but the vane pump section is missing. Here is the model:

After trawling the internet for a very long time, I found this manual (courtesy of Metro Fluid Power): Manual for Sperry Vickers V100 Series Pumps
This is what it looks like internally, including some re-assembly sequence (memory) shots:





I think that the thing looks OK'ish. Tazza, in the mail above, warned me about the chatter, which I think is present, though not excessive (I can't feel it with any fingernail):


Tazza in the mail above warned me about the circumferential wear. I think this is it:


It also, is not "feelable" so I think this is a simple get seals and re-assemble.
Jeez, I hope I get some time next week to work on getting the parts together instead of more apart...

Lord almighty,I just love this thread,and really appreciate the time you have taken to take pictures and explain what you are doing along the way.Makes me almost feel that I am along beside you seeing the work that you have been doing,and I feel when this is all said and done and you have a almost new working machine again,that this thread should be made a sticky for eons to come.

 

[jerry]

Lord almighty,I just love this thread,and really appreciate the time you have taken to take pictures and explain what you are doing along the way.Makes me almost feel that I am along beside you seeing the work that you have been doing,and I feel when this is all said and done and you have a almost new working machine again,that this thread should be made a sticky for eons to come.

The tool to remove the port block can be made easily from either a socket or a piece of pipe with 1/4 inch material welded across the end. I think I used pipe with flat bar inserted in a slot milled across the end and welded and then welded to a socket.

 

[Tazza]

17 Feb 2013
The household goods container arrived on Fri so spent this morning trying to sort out my huge collection of metric tools into a tool chest, and similarly trying to arrange my miniscule collection of Imperial tools into a space which looks larger than the metric section. Epic fail.
Re-assembled the right motor. Strange how the manual seems clearer on some items the second time around and vaguer on others. Anyway, the lack of clarity probably means that one motor will work and the other not.
I was hoping that the motor could be pulled today, but NAFI (no ambition, ... interest) set in, so I decided to strip the vane pump.
The manual glibly states:

I have, on several occassions now, noticed that single sentences in the manual, combined by no associated picture usually require special tools. These tools also require patience and a 5-axis machining centre. Anyway, the remove the pump from the block requires a socket, less than 44mm OD, with a square key that crosses the centreline, 1/4" x 1/4" - imagine a screwdriver that's tip is 44mm wide and has a "blade" that is 6.35mm thick and at least 6.35mm deep).
So, I couldn't clean the block and continued on. Tazza kindly supplied the manual for the rest of the pump, but the vane pump section is missing. Here is the model:

After trawling the internet for a very long time, I found this manual (courtesy of Metro Fluid Power): Manual for Sperry Vickers V100 Series Pumps
This is what it looks like internally, including some re-assembly sequence (memory) shots:





I think that the thing looks OK'ish. Tazza, in the mail above, warned me about the chatter, which I think is present, though not excessive (I can't feel it with any fingernail):


Tazza in the mail above warned me about the circumferential wear. I think this is it:


It also, is not "feelable" so I think this is a simple get seals and re-assemble.
Jeez, I hope I get some time next week to work on getting the parts together instead of more apart...

I'd leave the port block in place, too much stuffing around to remove it. Just remove the filter so you can give it a good cleaning out.
The vanes look to be a good length still, i wouldn't have any worries about putting it back together as is.
For the wear on the mounting plate, as long as it isn't too deep, i wouldn't worry either.

 

[peebeeaitch]

I'd leave the port block in place, too much stuffing around to remove it. Just remove the filter so you can give it a good cleaning out.
The vanes look to be a good length still, i wouldn't have any worries about putting it back together as is.
For the wear on the mounting plate, as long as it isn't too deep, i wouldn't worry either.

Hey Zorak, thanks for the thanks.
However, I've learnt so much here - enough to say that if it were not for this site I would NEVER have tackled this neverending story.
I've actually been waiting for the opportunity to show everyone who has commented why I'm trying to take some trouble. Here is an example of how this list saved me an hour or so (and some repair bills from throwing wrenches through walls from irritation and frustration):

See the seal behind the circlip? Well, that's the old one that I (stupidly) assumed I'd be able to get out because of whatever reason. I almost lost it when I saw that as I'd just bolted the WHOLE pump together.
Then I remembered something I'd read on another post (I think this is Tazza's if memory serves):

So there is the example of why I'm trying to document this as fully as possible - take a lot and give a little bit.

 

[peebeeaitch]

Hey Zorak, thanks for the thanks.
However, I've learnt so much here - enough to say that if it were not for this site I would NEVER have tackled this neverending story.
I've actually been waiting for the opportunity to show everyone who has commented why I'm trying to take some trouble. Here is an example of how this list saved me an hour or so (and some repair bills from throwing wrenches through walls from irritation and frustration):

See the seal behind the circlip? Well, that's the old one that I (stupidly) assumed I'd be able to get out because of whatever reason. I almost lost it when I saw that as I'd just bolted the WHOLE pump together.
Then I remembered something I'd read on another post (I think this is Tazza's if memory serves):

So there is the example of why I'm trying to document this as fully as possible - take a lot and give a little bit.

Thanks jerry and Tazza.
Tazza - too late he cried. I didn't know how this thing was assembled (I assumed that the large nut went through and clamped the block to the vane pump) and in my loosening attempts I managed to loosen the block off the vane pump. Now it has to be tightened again.
jerry - thanks, I had something similar in mind.

 

[peebeeaitch]

Thanks jerry and Tazza.
Tazza - too late he cried. I didn't know how this thing was assembled (I assumed that the large nut went through and clamped the block to the vane pump) and in my loosening attempts I managed to loosen the block off the vane pump. Now it has to be tightened again.
jerry - thanks, I had something similar in mind.

19 Feb 2013
Yesterday the power at the office croaked and this morning was still out. I'm almost on the same grid so without any semblence of power decided that Bobcat reclamation project was an ideal task.
Started by assembling the exploded pump:

Assembled (except for the seal mentioned a couple of posts above). Ready for final cleaning. I am hoping that attention paid in cleaning will bond me and the Bobcat's Karma - sort of like buying Valentine's flowers promotes other stuff. Also, they think it is important in the manual and so far I can see what happens when "stuff" gets into the hydraulic system.
Progress (including the vane):

Right, so now the concern:

These are the "spare" seals. Especially worrying is the full bag of seals. I have tried to keep all removed seals together and match the ingoing seal with the old one to make sure I get them all, but I, for the life of me, cannot figure out where these go. Are these spares? (Like a Church tombola where they chuck in a little something extra with one's prize?)
Oh yes, and the nut spoken of a couple of posts ago:

 

[Tazza]

19 Feb 2013
Yesterday the power at the office croaked and this morning was still out. I'm almost on the same grid so without any semblence of power decided that Bobcat reclamation project was an ideal task.
Started by assembling the exploded pump:

Assembled (except for the seal mentioned a couple of posts above). Ready for final cleaning. I am hoping that attention paid in cleaning will bond me and the Bobcat's Karma - sort of like buying Valentine's flowers promotes other stuff. Also, they think it is important in the manual and so far I can see what happens when "stuff" gets into the hydraulic system.
Progress (including the vane):


Right, so now the concern:

These are the "spare" seals. Especially worrying is the full bag of seals. I have tried to keep all removed seals together and match the ingoing seal with the old one to make sure I get them all, but I, for the life of me, cannot figure out where these go. Are these spares? (Like a Church tombola where they chuck in a little something extra with one's prize?)
Oh yes, and the nut spoken of a couple of posts ago:

Nice progress.
The seals, where did you get the seal kit from? most kits come with extras so they will cover different pump setups. The kit i got had extras, as did other kits i got for different branded pumps.
As long as you remembered the O rings for the hydraulic pump and the ones on the inlet and outlet fittings, you can't go wrong. The only other seal you have dealt with already, the main input shaft one. There are metal gaskets for between pump sections, but you can't easily forget those.
You have done the right thing, take an old one, match it with a newie.
How much trouble did you have putting the rotating groups in? a lot of people get stuck with the pins that hold the curved spacer that you slide the shaft on to. A dab of thick grease makes them stay in place.