picked up a project 743 that needs alot of work. i got it running nice but hydraulics were weak. both sides and the loader. i took the vane pump apart to inspect, but should be ok. then i checked the case drain pressure relief valve, it was stuck open i think, so i polished it and put it back together. added oil because most of it ran out. tried to start it but it wont turn far before binding up. i put a wrench on the crank and it goes almost a full turn from stop to stop. it was running good when i shut it down. its outside because my shop only has 8' walls. i dont think there is ice in the fan. i even took the vane pump back off to try turning it over. its a replacement kubota 1903 with unknown hours.port block is mounted on the side, so no brass filter. can something happen in the pumps from loosing that much oil?
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Help Support SkidSteer Forum:
If its run without oil it will be damaged, but you re-filled it then started it up, so this will not be the cause.
What isn't moving? the entire engine/pump setup? or just the engine? i assume they are still both connected?
As the engine is unknown, i would remove the glow plugs and turn the engine over, just to be sure it doesn't have hydraulic lock from coolant or oil entering the cylinders.
What isn't moving? the entire engine/pump setup? or just the engine? i assume they are still both connected?
As the engine is unknown, i would remove the glow plugs and turn the engine over, just to be sure it doesn't have hydraulic lock from coolant or oil entering the cylinders.
ya it never started back up. every thing is still in the machine. could i have broke a rod trying to start it? i have had ice around the fan on a different one but that was after pressure washingIf its run without oil it will be damaged, but you re-filled it then started it up, so this will not be the cause.
What isn't moving? the entire engine/pump setup? or just the engine? i assume they are still both connected?
As the engine is unknown, i would remove the glow plugs and turn the engine over, just to be sure it doesn't have hydraulic lock from coolant or oil entering the cylinders.
Its possible a rod broke if it was hydraulically locked and you tried to start it, but i'd doubt that is the problem just yet. Try the glow plugs, see if you can spin it by hand, well with a bar.ya it never started back up. every thing is still in the machine. could i have broke a rod trying to start it? i have had ice around the fan on a different one but that was after pressure washing
With ice, i'd have thought you could hear it scrape and crunch a little if that was stuck somewhere?
Im not a 100% sure if that one has the drive belt but that is one easy diag i have always used. isolate the components and then focus on what you have to. if you disconnect the drive belt and barr the engine over and it still locks look no further the only fault it could be is the engine. and then start into it. usually i take all the belts off and then recheck. also one thing i have seen on s200 is the grounds on the engine will have worked loose and it will crank great untill it gets a load and it seems like its siezed when its just bad power. but barring the engine over should show that problem real easy.Its possible a rod broke if it was hydraulically locked and you tried to start it, but i'd doubt that is the problem just yet. Try the glow plugs, see if you can spin it by hand, well with a bar.
With ice, i'd have thought you could hear it scrape and crunch a little if that was stuck somewhere?
The 743 was the last of the direct drive machines i believe.Im not a 100% sure if that one has the drive belt but that is one easy diag i have always used. isolate the components and then focus on what you have to. if you disconnect the drive belt and barr the engine over and it still locks look no further the only fault it could be is the engine. and then start into it. usually i take all the belts off and then recheck. also one thing i have seen on s200 is the grounds on the engine will have worked loose and it will crank great untill it gets a load and it seems like its siezed when its just bad power. but barring the engine over should show that problem real easy.
You can always remove the mounting bolts and slide the engine back to disconnect it from the pump. This would make it easier to work out what one is not turning over.
im going to try taking out the glow plugs first to see if anything pumps out. probably in a couple days when it warms up. do you think that valve i mentioned could have caused my weak hydraulics?The 743 was the last of the direct drive machines i believe.
You can always remove the mounting bolts and slide the engine back to disconnect it from the pump. This would make it easier to work out what one is not turning over.
Where was this valve? I'm just wondering if it is indeed the charge pressure valve or not.....im going to try taking out the glow plugs first to see if anything pumps out. probably in a couple days when it warms up. do you think that valve i mentioned could have caused my weak hydraulics?
What did the innards of the hydraulic pump look like?
in the control block,next to a sending unit.according to a schematic thats what they call it.its a cap; spring then a metal plunger. the plunger had a groove wore in it, so i chucked it up and cleaned it up. the vanes looked ok, and the surface they ride in was shiny,the surface behind it on the main pump body has grooves in it just outside of where the shaft comes thru.Where was this valve? I'm just wondering if it is indeed the charge pressure valve or not.....
What did the innards of the hydraulic pump look like?
Are you sure that was the charge pressure poppet? I know the cold weather bypass poppet is in this block. I was pretty sure the charge pressure relief was in the actual hydrostatic pump, the centre section behind a plug. I just don't know what one.in the control block,next to a sending unit.according to a schematic thats what they call it.its a cap; spring then a metal plunger. the plunger had a groove wore in it, so i chucked it up and cleaned it up. the vanes looked ok, and the surface they ride in was shiny,the surface behind it on the main pump body has grooves in it just outside of where the shaft comes thru.
case drain relief valve. number 19 page 50 of the operation and maintenance manual. not sure if this was the problem but it was easy to check.Are you sure that was the charge pressure poppet? I know the cold weather bypass poppet is in this block. I was pretty sure the charge pressure relief was in the actual hydrostatic pump, the centre section behind a plug. I just don't know what one.
Ah case drain, i had charge pressure on the brain, whoops!case drain relief valve. number 19 page 50 of the operation and maintenance manual. not sure if this was the problem but it was easy to check.
Did you manage to get the engine to turn over?
tomorrow i plan to work on it. i am going to pull 1 glow plug at a time and try turning it by hand in between. sure wish i had higher ceilings in my cozy warm shop. just cant flip a cab over in 8' clearance. so far i rebuilt the tilt cylinder along with a new shaft. new pins and bushings in the tach pivots. soldered the radiator. throttle linkages, fuel lines,and thats not it yet.Ah case drain, i had charge pressure on the brain, whoops!
Did you manage to get the engine to turn over?
Hey, as long as you are making progress!tomorrow i plan to work on it. i am going to pull 1 glow plug at a time and try turning it by hand in between. sure wish i had higher ceilings in my cozy warm shop. just cant flip a cab over in 8' clearance. so far i rebuilt the tilt cylinder along with a new shaft. new pins and bushings in the tach pivots. soldered the radiator. throttle linkages, fuel lines,and thats not it yet.
pulled out the glow plugs and the 1st one is broke/burnt off. either way there is nothing left below the threads. i stuck a wire down each one and can feel the pistons moving. the cylinder that has the broken glow plug stops near the top. it must be that piece.Hey, as long as you are making progress!
Weird that the tip broke off.... Time to pull the head to get it out. You can then check the head for possible cracks too.pulled out the glow plugs and the 1st one is broke/burnt off. either way there is nothing left below the threads. i stuck a wire down each one and can feel the pistons moving. the cylinder that has the broken glow plug stops near the top. it must be that piece.
is it possible to remove the injector and get it with a magnet?Weird that the tip broke off.... Time to pull the head to get it out. You can then check the head for possible cracks too.
Possibly, but that head is a pretty thin wall casting. I'd pull it and check it out. IIRC it's a pretty simple job.is it possible to remove the injector and get it with a magnet?
head is off. there is the piece of glow plug, flattened but no damage to the head. this was the only way that was going to get the piece out.Possibly, but that head is a pretty thin wall casting. I'd pull it and check it out. IIRC it's a pretty simple job.
