Having issues with my 632 Bobcat. Starts right up but when it warms up, it flutters and misses. I have tuned the engine up with new Points, condenser, cap and rotor, plugs and fuel filter but still doesn't run smoot like it use to. I set the points at .025 but not sure if that is correct. Does anyone know for sure what the points gap should be? It also seems like the governor doesn't open up. Any suggestions on what to check next?
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When it's fluttering is it blowing black smoke out of the exhaust. The choke might not be opening all the way or the float in the carb is sticking. Gently tap on the carb, see if it helps.
Atilathehun99
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After is warms and if let to sit at idle does it finally die? My 722 w/ same 1.6 Ford did this. I tested, troubleshooted, replaced points/condenser/rotor/cap, and tried nearly everything. Finally was going to send the distributor in for a full look-see, cleaning, and fix whatever was found to be a problem. When the distributor shop found out it was a Bosch out of a 1.6 Ford industrial they told me to save my money and their time. They wouldn't even look at it.
Their story was Ford cheaped out on the specs to Bosch and didn't pay the extra $ to have the distributor shaft case hardened. So through time and hours the shafts see wear. Not so much a problem when the engine low hours and when higher hours units are cold but as the block heats and expands the bore increases allowing the shaft to wobble a wee bit. That makes it nearly impossible for the point gap to remain stable.
Sounded a bit like a theory to me but I did this. Bought a brand new Pertronix electronic ignition distributor. I mean the whole distributor and not just an EI module for the existing distributor. All I can say is that by doing this all of my problems were solved.
Their story was Ford cheaped out on the specs to Bosch and didn't pay the extra $ to have the distributor shaft case hardened. So through time and hours the shafts see wear. Not so much a problem when the engine low hours and when higher hours units are cold but as the block heats and expands the bore increases allowing the shaft to wobble a wee bit. That makes it nearly impossible for the point gap to remain stable.
Sounded a bit like a theory to me but I did this. Bought a brand new Pertronix electronic ignition distributor. I mean the whole distributor and not just an EI module for the existing distributor. All I can say is that by doing this all of my problems were solved.
Where did you purchase the Electronic Distributo? Do you have a web site and part number. Even if it ends up not being that, I would still like to get away from points and condensor.
Atilathehun99
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My comment wasn't meant to be an advertisement and all what is written is true.
With that out of the way I ended up with 2 Pertronix distributors, one being brand new and still in the box. See the For Sale forum here if you'd like more information.
With that out of the way I ended up with 2 Pertronix distributors, one being brand new and still in the box. See the For Sale forum here if you'd like more information.
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All very good information here. I also have electronic ignition on my machines, I think it was money well spent. One other thing you should check is your valve clearance, the specs are in the sheet that brdgbldr posted.
Does anyone have a picture of the engine breakdown for the Ford Industrial model 2274E / KSG416. I'm starting to think that I have a timing issue. Does this have gear to gear timing or a chain? When my issues started, I could hear a tinny noise and thinking it could be the chain hitting the cover. Thoughts?
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Here's a picture of the timing chain setup. There is a tensioner which is the cam shaped gizmo between the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets. If it isn't tensioning your chain it could very well cause some grief as the timing will not be consistent…
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The "comma" shaped part is the tensioner and has serrated surface so it does not back off. The tension is set by the spring that goes through the center of the tensioner. I suppose that spring could break and allow things to come loose. I have only worked on this one so no real world experience.
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I have not dealt with the Ford motor specifically but am familiar with a set up like the one shown in the pics below.The tensioner is most likely located on the slack side of the chain. To check this set up, take the coil wire off then try turning the motor back and forth with a breaker bar, first in the normal direction of rotation then the opposite way. If there is a problem with the tensioner not being able to take up the slack you will feel it as a lot of backlash. HTH.
Maddogsmotorsports
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is your engine a v4 or inline 4??
Atilathehun99
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1.6 Fords are inline. As mentioned above they're British in origin at least. I've heard them called "Kent's". What I don't know if all were made over there or some here too.
Yes, mine is an inline 4. I have heard that early Pinto and Festa used this model, however when checking on parts, none of those fit mine. I went thru and checked the basics. Valve gaps, point gaps, exc.. Found that the timing was way too far advanced. At first check the , the timing was about double the 12degrees. Backed it off as it should be and everything seems fine now. The tick I could hear is the exhaust gasket starting to get a leak. Need to replace that next. Thanks for all of the support and suggestions. Much appreciated.
Where would I find a fuel pump for this type of bobcat Ford 1.6L Model #2274E?
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The easiest thing to do would be to find an electric pump with the proper pressure.
I believe that there are some older posts on here where people have found the mechanical pump for old Ford cars. The hard part is finding the proper bolt pattern.
Try looking at old Ford Kent parts (the Kent was an English model), Some Pintos and I think Escorts.
