hydraulics problem

[Tazza]

Could it be a bad coil? How would a person check this?

It could be the coils.
Remove them from the stems, stick a screwdriver in the coil and activate the aux hydraulics and see if you can feel it magnetize.

 

[little_fellow]

It could be the coils.
Remove them from the stems, stick a screwdriver in the coil and activate the aux hydraulics and see if you can feel it magnetize.

I don't feel magnetism when I stick a screwdriver in them and activate the switch.

 

[Tazza]

I don't feel magnetism when I stick a screwdriver in them and activate the switch.

I'd remove the coil and check it with a meter, see if there is any resistance. Even ceck for voltage at the connector when activating the thumb switch.
Is it only one that doesn't work or both? Seems odd if both were to fail at the same time

 

[Tazza]

I'd remove the coil and check it with a meter, see if there is any resistance. Even ceck for voltage at the connector when activating the thumb switch.
Is it only one that doesn't work or both? Seems odd if both were to fail at the same time

Also, checking the fuse and holder isn't a bad idea either. If a coil was starting to fail, it may be shorting out and blowing the fuse.
As it was working now isn't, for both i assume, i would think it's a common problem.

 

[little_fellow]

Also, checking the fuse and holder isn't a bad idea either. If a coil was starting to fail, it may be shorting out and blowing the fuse.
As it was working now isn't, for both i assume, i would think it's a common problem.

yes, both, I thought it was odd also, I even tried switching them around.

 

[little_fellow]

yes, both, I thought it was odd also, I even tried switching them around.

So far, I checked the fuses. Didn't notice any bad ones. Would the coils use its power from the accessories fuses?

 

[Tazza]

So far, I checked the fuses. Didn't notice any bad ones. Would the coils use its power from the accessories fuses?

I really don't know where it gets power from, but i thought there was a dedicated fuse for the aux circuit.... inside the fuse holder cover, there should be a sticker to tell you what they are for?

 

[Fishfiles]

I really don't know where it gets power from, but i thought there was a dedicated fuse for the aux circuit.... inside the fuse holder cover, there should be a sticker to tell you what they are for?

it would really help if I knew what model machine you had , some machines had a seperate module to controll the aux , most controll the aux thru the controller , -----------I'd guess your problem is in the aux controll switch that mounts on top the travel lever

 

[little_fellow]

it would really help if I knew what model machine you had , some machines had a seperate module to controll the aux , most controll the aux thru the controller , -----------I'd guess your problem is in the aux controll switch that mounts on top the travel lever

I have a 773-C model.

 

[little_fellow]

I really don't know where it gets power from, but i thought there was a dedicated fuse for the aux circuit.... inside the fuse holder cover, there should be a sticker to tell you what they are for?

What I see in the engine compartment is two fuse holders. They hold 4 fuses each. One has the bics fuse (10 amp), the boss fuse (10 amp), the engine fuse (15 amp) and a PWM fuse (15 amp). The other has four 25 amp fuses which are labeled for lights, brakes and 2 for accessory. They all look good. I didn't have a chance to check the coils with a meter to see if there is any resistance and I haven't checked for voltage at the connector when activating the thumb switch yet but I will as soon as possible.

 

[Fishfiles]

What I see in the engine compartment is two fuse holders. They hold 4 fuses each. One has the bics fuse (10 amp), the boss fuse (10 amp), the engine fuse (15 amp) and a PWM fuse (15 amp). The other has four 25 amp fuses which are labeled for lights, brakes and 2 for accessory. They all look good. I didn't have a chance to check the coils with a meter to see if there is any resistance and I haven't checked for voltage at the connector when activating the thumb switch yet but I will as soon as possible.

773 c - I think you may have a seperate controll module for aux on that machine , if you do ,with the cab and boom up looking into the belly from the front it will be on the right side up under what I would call the gunnel ( if it were a boat ) , square box about 4"'s by 1 " thick with one weatherhead plug going in the top side ------I still lean more to the controll switch on the travel lever only from repetition as I have changed quite a few of them , alot of times the lock trigger will get stuck in the on position-------- the stem coils should ohm out at 10-12 , you can take them off the machine and apply voltage to it , stick a screw driver down the hole in it and it will magnetize if it is good

 

[little_fellow]

What I see in the engine compartment is two fuse holders. They hold 4 fuses each. One has the bics fuse (10 amp), the boss fuse (10 amp), the engine fuse (15 amp) and a PWM fuse (15 amp). The other has four 25 amp fuses which are labeled for lights, brakes and 2 for accessory. They all look good. I didn't have a chance to check the coils with a meter to see if there is any resistance and I haven't checked for voltage at the connector when activating the thumb switch yet but I will as soon as possible.

Hi everyone. I did some checking. I did see the separate control module for aux. I don't have voltage at the connectors when I activate the control switch on the travel lever. The coils have magnetism when I connect power to them. I took the handle apart and this looks like all the wires are sealed together in one solid peace. Is there a way to check the control switch on the travel lever?

 

[Tazza]

Hi everyone. I did some checking. I did see the separate control module for aux. I don't have voltage at the connectors when I activate the control switch on the travel lever. The coils have magnetism when I connect power to them. I took the handle apart and this looks like all the wires are sealed together in one solid peace. Is there a way to check the control switch on the travel lever?

You need a wiring diagram to know what wires work with the switches. Then you can check them at the connector. The switches are encased in epoxy to try and keep dirt out.

 

[little_fellow]

You need a wiring diagram to know what wires work with the switches. Then you can check them at the connector. The switches are encased in epoxy to try and keep dirt out.

I will go there again but yesterday I couldn't find power coming from the sensing module going to the right control arm . I probably didn't do my testing accurately. What I did was to disconnect the harness between the two and probed it with a test light.

 

[little_fellow]

I will go there again but yesterday I couldn't find power coming from the sensing module going to the right control arm . I probably didn't do my testing accurately. What I did was to disconnect the harness between the two and probed it with a test light.

I did more checking. When I remove the PWM fuse, the 2 lights from the activation button go off therefore the fuse is good. I checked to see if I`m getting power before the joystick control handle and don`t seem to have any. I am doing this test with a test light and I don`t know if I'm testing the right way. There is 2 different connectors going to the PWM control module and there is power in each of these connectors coming from one separate wire in each connector.

 

[Tazza]

I did more checking. When I remove the PWM fuse, the 2 lights from the activation button go off therefore the fuse is good. I checked to see if I`m getting power before the joystick control handle and don`t seem to have any. I am doing this test with a test light and I don`t know if I'm testing the right way. There is 2 different connectors going to the PWM control module and there is power in each of these connectors coming from one separate wire in each connector.

Not sure a test light is enough to test the switch on the handle, it may be a low voltage circuit that the test light may not light up with.
You have isolated a few things, the coils work, stems are new. It has to be wiring, control module or the switch. If you can work out what wires do what on the handle, check it with a meter to see if the connection closes when the switch is moved.
The hand switch, is it just an on/off switch? or is it like a resistor that feels smooth either way with a spring return, no feeling of it clicking? One is for standard control, the other is proportional, the more you move the switch, the more flow you get.

 

[little_fellow]

Not sure a test light is enough to test the switch on the handle, it may be a low voltage circuit that the test light may not light up with.
You have isolated a few things, the coils work, stems are new. It has to be wiring, control module or the switch. If you can work out what wires do what on the handle, check it with a meter to see if the connection closes when the switch is moved.
The hand switch, is it just an on/off switch? or is it like a resistor that feels smooth either way with a spring return, no feeling of it clicking? One is for standard control, the other is proportional, the more you move the switch, the more flow you get.

I think the switch is standard and spring loaded to bring it back to center. The reason I think it's standard is that the only way I could slow it down is by letting go of the switch. Hard to double check that now but I think that's what it did. There is no feeling of it clicking when I activate it.

 

[little_fellow]

I think the switch is standard and spring loaded to bring it back to center. The reason I think it's standard is that the only way I could slow it down is by letting go of the switch. Hard to double check that now but I think that's what it did. There is no feeling of it clicking when I activate it.

I just tried the switch and it is spring loaded and there is no feeling of it clicking when activated.

 

[Tazza]

I just tried the switch and it is spring loaded and there is no feeling of it clicking when activated.

If there is no click it sounds like it may be a resistor style one. So when you test the connector, the value should change the more you move your thumb.

 

[little_fellow]

If there is no click it sounds like it may be a resistor style one. So when you test the connector, the value should change the more you move your thumb.

Sorry Tazza but I thought you meant a click like for example when you activate the button for the lights in the dash to go on which would be a click after you activate the switch. now that I read your post again, I am inclined to say that there is a click when the switch is activated and doesn't feel smooth either way even though it is spring loaded. My Mistake. Thanks for your input. Does this mean that on the test will go up a certain amount and stay there?