Hydraulic PTO

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Thats kinda the hazards of do it yourself. You learn where it could have been better. Mind you, that can be the hazards of buying new too, sometimes made just good enough to make it through warranty.
Add the bypass. The cutter also really slows down when you lift the arms of the loader, as the arms get the oil instead of the motor, and being able to coast in this situation would be beneficial also. Think the check valve was $10 with hoses and T's still under $40
I find the front wheel good if the mowing is a smoother field, but if its too rough the front wheel stubs into the holes (not as tall as the skidsteer wheel, so won't climb up and over as much) and has been broke off many times.
When I put mine back on (yet again) it is going into a 2" receiver, so it can be easily removed when the mowing is too rough. (we mow some logging cut overs for atv/sled trails for hunters) and its pretty easy to bang and bend the deck up in amongst the stumps and rocks. I completely gave up renting the brusher for this application. No matter how tough I made the thing it had a 50% chance of coming home broken.
This spring I cut the front out of the deck this year exposing 6" s of the blade tips, throws debris a little more. But much less bb prone to running out of power in tall grass as it discharges @ 50% of the grass.
Ken
I put the lead wheel back on and welded a swivel tire on each rear corner of the mower deck for a 3 pt stance. Worked well for a while , but I got a little rammy swinging it side ways in between trees and pooched one rear and the front wheel. Bent to hell. I am pretty sure they are meant to travel in a rather sweeping arc as opposed to a complete hard 180 degree spin. Gonna need to beef that up to make this work. ALso , i think just lead tire would be enough to maintain some levelness....
 
I put the lead wheel back on and welded a swivel tire on each rear corner of the mower deck for a 3 pt stance. Worked well for a while , but I got a little rammy swinging it side ways in between trees and pooched one rear and the front wheel. Bent to hell. I am pretty sure they are meant to travel in a rather sweeping arc as opposed to a complete hard 180 degree spin. Gonna need to beef that up to make this work. ALso , i think just lead tire would be enough to maintain some levelness....
I just had one swivel caster wheel, front and center. I tried to lift the weight off it b4 turning and not to apply down pressure to it (happens if I roll my bucket cylinders out too far) and to watch for ditches and holes that are too square and deep for the wheel to roll through. I have learned to be vary careful with it. Renter however are a different story.
I have broke the hub out of the wheel, (standard 3pt brusher wheel, bent the 1" shaft it steers on, bent the 1 1/4" grade 8 bolt I made the new shaft from. Broke the 3500 lb trailer hub I made the next swivel from.
It is getting a 8 stud, 7000 lb trailer hub this time. I also folded up the factory king kutter arm that holds the wheel tried to reinforce it once and finally just tossed it. New one is 1.5 by 3 by .250" box iron. Fixed
This should have a tire 30" tall and a swivel on a 2.5" pin made out of a good grade of steel. I will put it on a pickup receiver so I can remove it easily for the real rough bush, where you must carry the cutter.
I love the open front design on the cutter though. Better performance in grass because it discharges some of the clippings. Better it brush because it all gets cut off, no more bending it over and just can't hit it with the blades. Now the blades are the first thing there. WHACK, gone.
Ken
 
I just had one swivel caster wheel, front and center. I tried to lift the weight off it b4 turning and not to apply down pressure to it (happens if I roll my bucket cylinders out too far) and to watch for ditches and holes that are too square and deep for the wheel to roll through. I have learned to be vary careful with it. Renter however are a different story.
I have broke the hub out of the wheel, (standard 3pt brusher wheel, bent the 1" shaft it steers on, bent the 1 1/4" grade 8 bolt I made the new shaft from. Broke the 3500 lb trailer hub I made the next swivel from.
It is getting a 8 stud, 7000 lb trailer hub this time. I also folded up the factory king kutter arm that holds the wheel tried to reinforce it once and finally just tossed it. New one is 1.5 by 3 by .250" box iron. Fixed
This should have a tire 30" tall and a swivel on a 2.5" pin made out of a good grade of steel. I will put it on a pickup receiver so I can remove it easily for the real rough bush, where you must carry the cutter.
I love the open front design on the cutter though. Better performance in grass because it discharges some of the clippings. Better it brush because it all gets cut off, no more bending it over and just can't hit it with the blades. Now the blades are the first thing there. WHACK, gone.
Ken
Got any pics of this unit Ken? Sounds like if I can mock up what you have done I will save myself a lot of future repairs.
 
Got any pics of this unit Ken? Sounds like if I can mock up what you have done I will save myself a lot of future repairs.
I'll get some up, she ain't pretty, will warn you now. But you sure can't tell by the job it does.
Here is the link to the old thread before I widened it and opened the front up http://www.skidsteerforum.com/DesktopDefault.aspx?tabid=54&frmView=ShowPost&PostID=10926
New pics
IMG_1776.jpg Open front 2 picture by beyondupnorth

IMG_1777.jpg Open front with exposed blades picture by beyondupnorth

Below Where I widend the deck.
IMG_1778.jpg Addition to make deck 6ft wide from 5ft picture by beyondupnorth

Below stick is on bypass loop
IMG_1781.jpg Relief valve and bypass loop to creat motor valve picture by beyondupnorth

Ken
 
Go to the home page of this site on the left side skidsteer attachments, they have one.
I bought one from Princess Auto for about 400 bucks I think. I wouldnt get one again. They dont have the swinging arms like a conventional 3 pt on a tractor, so your side to side measurement is crucial to link to your 3pt implements. I have had to mod every implement with some sort of stance modification inorder to mate it up to the skid steer. Really been a pain in the royal pinache. My $0.02 for what its worth.
 
I bought one from Princess Auto for about 400 bucks I think. I wouldnt get one again. They dont have the swinging arms like a conventional 3 pt on a tractor, so your side to side measurement is crucial to link to your 3pt implements. I have had to mod every implement with some sort of stance modification inorder to mate it up to the skid steer. Really been a pain in the royal pinache. My $0.02 for what its worth.
do you have the specs on the motor you are using? i've thought of doing the same thing only i was thinking of using the 3 point hitch plate with the motor attached to it and using a shaft (same as a tractor) so only one motor would be needed for several implements. thanks for sharing the info.
 
do you have the specs on the motor you are using? i've thought of doing the same thing only i was thinking of using the 3 point hitch plate with the motor attached to it and using a shaft (same as a tractor) so only one motor would be needed for several implements. thanks for sharing the info.
I have one mounted to the 3 pt adaptor as well. I honestly just took one off the shelf and put it on the hydraulics and saw how fast it spins. As long as I could get it from 500-600, that was good enough. My 540 pto on my tractor actual;y spins at 700 WOT... One problem with mounting the motor to the adaptor, is the drive shaft length. Since the pto end off the motor sits in line with the mounting points, cant be moved back cause bobtach is in the way, you have to cut down drive shafts for the implements.
 
I have one mounted to the 3 pt adaptor as well. I honestly just took one off the shelf and put it on the hydraulics and saw how fast it spins. As long as I could get it from 500-600, that was good enough. My 540 pto on my tractor actual;y spins at 700 WOT... One problem with mounting the motor to the adaptor, is the drive shaft length. Since the pto end off the motor sits in line with the mounting points, cant be moved back cause bobtach is in the way, you have to cut down drive shafts for the implements.
i just thought it would be easier to fix the shaft then to fix a different motor to every attachment you want to use. i also thought that i could extend the 3-point hitch mounts away from the plate to be able to use a regular shaft. thanks for the info i'll be looking for a motor to mount.
 
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