Thanks to Shane, I was able to take off my tracks and sprockets today and drain my drive motor oil. At first, I was shocked at how little came out--then I see in my service manual that only 1.5 oz per side required-- and I got an equal amt of oil per side. I imagine it was enough as an ounce and a half isn't very much. It was sure black, but had no detectable impurities in it. I will let them drip tonight and replace the oil tomorrow. I called my local dealer and he said he has a kit with the same part # my book shows for the oil, so I suppose I will be good to go tomorrow once I get home with the kit. All the rollers seem good and smooth, although I was surprised at how hard they turned--but they were smooth, just took quite a bit of effort--not rough at all. My sprockets show nearly no wear at 600 hrs. Question-- 1)When (at how many hours) should I worry about the roller's and idler's bearings? 2) How important is the torque on the sprockets? I used a 3/4" air Impact and had no trouble loosening the capscrews that hold the sprockets on--could I just tighten them up as tight as my impact will get them and consider them tight enough, or do I need to find a torque wrench to check them? 3) At about $30 each I can buy entire new case drain filters rather than mess around tearing them apart and cleaning them. Is this an OK way to go? I guess the oring needed to re-assemble the filters isn't available by itself through Bobcat parts. Thanks, Iowa Dave
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how long do the rollers last , I find there is no method to the madness , changed one a week ago that went 2071 hrs thats a high , and have changed them at 500 hours and less , I think bobcat played around with different venders along the way , I do think different situation shorten or extend the life of the rollers, keeping the tracks cleaned out and properly adjusted adds to the life , new rollers do have plugs in them -------------my 3/4 impact will break off the sprockets studs if I over do it , I do sprockets a lot so I am use to whats tight , I set the gun on 3 of 4 and know when to stop , if in doubt use the torque wrench to check it out after impacting , pull it up evenly with a star pattern , getting sprockets off is a lot easier sometimes by having a 1/2 bottoming tap and taking the time to cleaning out the three threaded holes in the sprocket that are used to push the sprocket off the hub before inserting the bolts , take care hitting the sprocket with a mall as it will fragment and throw pieces of metal off ------------
Lots of good stuff Fishfiles. To answer the question about the case drain filters. It is very easy to service a case drain filter, I would still just buy the kit (6661807), rather than the entire filter(6661022). Also, be sure to pick up a couple of the o-rings(79k6) on each end of the filter.
Dave, I have 6000 hrs on my T-190. Original rollers, but have replaced bearings in most once. It's the seals that make them hard to turn. As the seals wear, the rollers will begin to spin quite easily. You can check for freeplay in the bearings at the same time you check your track tension. [roller not in contact with track] To check the idlers you have to completely remove the track. [replaced heaps of bearings in those]. This is largely due to constant heavy weight on the front. [ tilt-tach, 4 in 1 bucket holding a 450lb+ spreader bar[landscape rack] , the front of which is about 6ft from front of tracks]. I now use an extreme pressure liquid grease in rollers/idlers. Not affected so much by worn seals. To undo sprocket bolts I use a 3/4 drive breaker bar and short piece of pipe. Never had one come loose. Can remove/replace sprocket without track removal. Just release pressure.
Gee, thanks. Lots of good info. I also use heavy attachments, such as an 84" soil conditioner that we use nearly daily all season long. So you use "extreme pressure liquid grease"? I don't understand your statement that it isn't affected so much by worn seals--if the grease is liquid, then wouldn't worn seals allow the grease to drip out? Is there any preventative (off season when we have time) maintenance to do to the rollers/idlers, like taking them off and using a needle to add grease or something? I assume you just take the idler or roller off, and press in new brgs--I suppose there may be a snap ring or something--I have a service manual--I will look, but any tricks there? Do you get the brgs at Bobcat or somewhere else? Would it be a good idea to have a few idler and/or roller bearings on hand?? I LOVE this machine for grading/dirt work, and don't want to end up with the horror stories some tell about--I've always assumed most problems were from lack of maintenance/service. Wow! 6000 hrs--Any other hints/things you have learned in all that time? Mine is a late 2005 model. Thanks!
thetool
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- Mar 22, 2008
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- 516
Hey JOK-
Sounds like you got a good pm going on. I never get the call until it's too late, and the whole assembly needs replacement. Like the front idlers, once it goes so long that bad bearings take out the shaft, it's cheaper and faster to replace the whole assembly, but then the cost is eye-bugging. I end up being a parts changer most times.
I'm interested in your pm procedure, how often you check that stuff, the way you do it. I see you check the rollers every time you check tension, but how often do you do it?
How many sets of tracks have you gone through, and what's your normal ground condition?
I've never even thought of pulling the sprocket without pulling the track, it never even crossed my mind that it was possible. I don't like messing with tracks, but I look forward to giving that a try.
There's a lot of digruntled T190 owners out there. I haven't been too recommending of this machine either. You seem to like yours, but you also seem to be more pm-conscious than the folks I run with.
With 6000 hrs, you have to be doing something right.....=).
Hi guys. Try to answer some of your questions. No off season here. Machine usually works 5 1/2 days a week. Not a lot of spare time for maintenance and living. I'm not a maintenance freak, just do things when I can. When working on the machine I will look at everything I can to see any small problems before they become large ones. Best tip ever is to let the machine warm up properly. [plenty of guys dont]. Next is Drive the machine. Slow turns put much less strain on the drivetrain, thus less wear and less surface damage. Even in tight situations I will do a very small 3 or 4 point turn. Use standard maintenance schedule with a good 10w40 engine oil in all systems . Parts and machines far more expensive hear in Australia than in the US, so I rebuild rollers/idlers. Rollers dont self desruct as bad as idlers so brgs/seals usually do the tricki. Idlers on the other hand can make a real mess but I have some spare ones out of the junk bin that I rebuild when I can. Build up/ resize axles. Remove damaged axle housing from idlers/replace with new steel one[not cast] Original metal is too hard to remachine when welded. Build up wheel surfaces with low grade hardfacing electrode or wrap with 40mm x 20mm flat bar if pressed for time. Use OEM seals [can't find alternative] store bought brgs. Remove inner seal and fill entire housing with extreme pressure liquid grease. Although a liquid its not as runny as oil and will hold up longer with a leaking seal. Sticks around better to show you have a problem. I dont inspect idlers as such, but keep an eye on them but more importantly listen to them. If something sounds a bit off, have a look and feel them. Rollers/idlers do get warm but one with a bad bearing/ no lube will be hot. Track inspections can be done anytime. Tilt bucket forward, lift off ground. Give rollers a bit of a spin. A bit of sideways movement means a bad bearing. I get around 2000 hrs from a set of OEM tracks. Not worth buying anything else. I have tried them. Spend a lot of time on hard surfaces but always drive to the conditions. Spinning in circles and filling the track with dirt/gravel/rocks is a great way to stretch/break a track. I think mud is one of the worst surfaces to work on as it sticks to everything and acts like a grinding paste. Engine/pumps, no dramas. Constant vibration of track will cause anything thats not bolted down to wear prematurely so go to work with the zip ties. Good luck with your machines. Got any other queries give us a shout.