New member with 1995 853

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Mitch500

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Joined
Feb 4, 2024
Messages
30
Hello fellow forum members,

Just wanted to introduce myself, I'm a new member with a 1995 853. I acquired this bobcat about a week ago in hopes to help my around my acreage with yard work, garden stuff, snow removal and hopes to re surfaces the gravel road at my cabin.

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I bought the 853 at a non operable auction and got it for a good deal I believe. I'm not a noob with wrenching, I've rebuilt a couple Mercedes diesel sprinter motors , do all my own mechanics on cars and trucks. But I am a noob to the Skid steer world and hydraulics for that matter.

The other day when I got the machine home I got to work and begun preparing to get the motor started, But not before reading the service manual a couple times to familiarize myself with the machine. One thing I noticed right away was someone added a walbro autopulse inline fuel pump. Upon reading the manual that part was not factory and someone installed it, which lead me to believe maybe something was wrong with the pickup tube in the tank or ball valve on the end of the tube. Whoever installed it decided to steal 12v from the fuel cutoff switch attached to the injection pump which was causing the switch to rapidly shut off and on while the key was in the on position (not running). I decided to disconnect that connection and installed new fuel filter Wix (old filter was incorrect arrow in blue) and bled the air via touching the positive lead on the pump to the starter +. This allowed me to bleed the filter of air and also bleed air from injection pump. Here's a pic of the pump circled in green which i plan to replace with hand pump.

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After that, I had to reconnect the starter signal wire as I believe someone cut it in the auction yard to see if the motor would spin as the machine came with now key. Original auction photos show the wire connected. This was easy so I just soldered and heat shrink it together.

Next I replaced the oil and filter. The filter that came with it was bobcat OEM filter and said Rotella t6 and was changed in 2021, no hour recorded but was nice to see a OEM filter and a good oil begin used. I drained the oil which was dark but nothing out of the ordinary. I replaced it with 7.6l of Rotella t6 and a Wix cross-reference filter.

Now it was time to start the motor, I plugged the block heater in for about a hour, jumped in the cab and held the glow plug button for about 10-15sec. I used a flat head screw driver to turn the ignition and to my suprise the machine fired up instantly. Was slightly roughy to start as it was -10 outside but the idle smoothed out pretty quickly and was running great.

After that I let it idle for a few mins checking for leaks or strange sounds, I did notice a belt chirp on the accessory side of the motor which lead to to find a broken alternator belt tensioner bracket. Since then I've welded it together. see pic below

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After running for a few mins I raised and lowerd the boom. Great it works. Now I tried to move forward and back, this worked great too. No strange pump noises or jerky-ness in the hydraulics. I then bumped the engine theottle up and the hydraulic warning light illuminated on the overhead control board so I shut it down immediately. Here's a pic of the light that came on:

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I checked the fluid level In the reservoir prior to starting and I added 5 liters of fluid. I let the machine sit over night thinking the fluid was hot and that's what was giving me the warning. The next day I fired up the machine and the light was on instantly which led me to believe the temp wasn't the problem. Upon reading the warning light illumination can be 1. Fluid temp 2. Charge pressure 3.Plugged filters 4. bad sensor

I've since placed a order for 2 new Wix hydraulic filters which I'll change out and see if that solves it. Start with the easiest first.

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I then raised the cab of the machine and upon Inspecting the inside it looks as if it's never been cleaned. Lots of dirt, fluid and debris inside. I also notice I have a active leak coming from the tops of the hydraulic pump where the steering levers connect. I've read there is a sleeve and o-rings to replace there. The other active leak was coming from the hydraulic drive motor that's behind the missing covers between the wheels. Lots of sand and junk in there mixed with fluid laying in that compartment.

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My next step is to give the machine a good cleaning , is it ok to pressure wash the hydraulic pumps and everywhere under the raised cab? More so a good degreasing and fanning of the pressure washer being careful not to infiltrate water into electrical connectors and such. I'm sure my drains are plugged as there's a inch of junk in those compartments behind the wheels. Also about washing under the main hydraulic pump between the fuel tank and hydro pump? Is there worry of getting water in the fuel tank?

Pic of dirty hydraulics compartment.

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So just a recap on questions:

1. Dash light for hydraulics. What to check for?

2. Washing under the cab, anything I should watch out for before I give er.

Thanks again and looking forward to this project and responses from members.
 

FJRDarksider

Active member
Joined
Feb 28, 2023
Messages
28
I have a 1993 853. It had a few electrical issues which have been sorted, along with worn out pins/bushings etc. Mine came with a fuel pump as well but it runs just fine with it so not sure when it was installed. Changed oil and filters, a few hoses, and rebuilt the tilt cylinder.....learning as I go LOL. Not sure about your hydraulic light if the fluid level is good.....perhaps a bad sensor or stuck solenoid?

I had a leak on the steering servos as well but other than being a bit awkward to get at, it really is fairly straight forward. Had to get the o-rings at Bobcat as I could not find one close enough with the right diameter and thickness....had a broken spring as well. There is a post somewhere on here walking you through the process, but the SM has good detail on it.

I degreased mine with simple green and careful use of a pressure sprayer without issue.

Enjoy!
 

Tlawdogg

Well-known member
Joined
May 22, 2020
Messages
138
Hydraulic filters. You should have two other ones too. Do you see that silver aluminum in-line Hydraulic filter looks like it's straight out of the bottom of your Hydraulic tank? That is the filter too. Usually one of those to each side of drive. When I got my 863f they were clogged with sand! You can replace the element and O rings(2). See my attached picture of one apart.
Keep us updated. Good looking machine.
Todd
 

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AJ-17

Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2019
Messages
21
I do not use water to clean out the engine/belly pan area. I use compress air with a 36" long 1/2" piece of copper pipe with the end smashed slightly so the hole in only 1/3 of the original size. A 175psi compressor, 120 gallon tanks, works very well for cleaning without adding water to electrical connections. I have been doing it this way for years.
 
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Mitch500

Mitch500

Active member
Joined
Feb 4, 2024
Messages
30
I have a 1993 853. It had a few electrical issues which have been sorted, along with worn out pins/bushings etc. Mine came with a fuel pump as well but it runs just fine with it so not sure when it was installed. Changed oil and filters, a few hoses, and rebuilt the tilt cylinder.....learning as I go LOL. Not sure about your hydraulic light if the fluid level is good.....perhaps a bad sensor or stuck solenoid?

I had a leak on the steering servos as well but other than being a bit awkward to get at, it really is fairly straight forward. Had to get the o-rings at Bobcat as I could not find one close enough with the right diameter and thickness....had a broken spring as well. There is a post somewhere on here walking you through the process, but the SM has good detail on it.

I degreased mine with simple green and careful use of a pressure sprayer without issue.

Enjoy!
Hey right on!

Thanks for the reply, is that your machine in your profile pic? I really like the grey color combo!

When you did your steering servos, did you do just the spindle o-rings or the sleeve as well?

I'm thinking maybe the filters are in bypass and causing the light to come on maybe. It's kinda cold here -8 c and I added a jug of 10w30 to the hydraulic reservoir prior to the light coming on. (Manual says it was ok 🤷‍♂️)

Anyways I think I'll change the filters anyway and go from there. I read bobcat has some new cold climate fluid but looks $$$


Hydraulic filters. You should have two other ones too. Do you see that silver aluminum in-line Hydraulic filter looks like it's straight out of the bottom of your Hydraulic tank? That is the filter too. Usually one of those to each side of drive. When I got my 863f they were clogged with sand! You can replace the element and O rings(2). See my attached picture of one apart.
Keep us updated. Good looking machine.
Todd

Awesome, I'll definitely pull those out. One would assume you have to drain the hydraulic fluid reservoir prior to pulling those case drains... Or at least plug it. Maybe if the filters are in ok shape they can be cleaned with solvent and blown out.

I do not use water to clean out the engine/belly pan area. I use compress air with a 36" long 1/2" piece of copper pipe with the end smashed slightly so the hole in only 1/3 of the original size. A 175psi compressor, 120 gallon tanks, works very well for cleaning without adding water to electrical connections. I have been doing it this way for years.

That's a good idea, However I don't have a compressor that large.i think I'll spray some degreaser and fan the gunk away with my pressure washer. Maybe put a bag or 2 over areas that could be sensitive to water.




On a side note, does anyone know where the oil pressure sensor or switch is on that Isuzu motor?
 

oiu789

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 23, 2017
Messages
152
Check the oil if it has some water in, it it could be freezing and plugging up the pickup or filters. The light on could be low or no charge pressure. Did it operate properly with the light on? If you can leave it in a heated spot over night or longer and see if the light stays out.
 
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Mitch500

Mitch500

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Joined
Feb 4, 2024
Messages
30
Check the oil if it has some water in, it it could be freezing and plugging up the pickup or filters. The light on could be low or no charge pressure. Did it operate properly with the light on? If you can leave it in a heated spot over night or longer and see if the light stays out.

It was parked outside overnight both times the light was on, Over night temps were -12c roughly 5f.

Despite the light being on all functions seem to work correctly it moved forward, turned left, turn right, the boom lifted up down and the bucket tilted as well. There's no strange noise noises what's so ever.
 

laurencen

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Joined
Oct 3, 2016
Messages
234
my deere will throw the light on at that temperatures until it gets warmed up, some day will go to a thinner oil
 

FJRDarksider

Active member
Joined
Feb 28, 2023
Messages
28
Hey right on!

Thanks for the reply, is that your machine in your profile pic? I really like the grey color combo!

When you did your steering servos, did you do just the spindle o-rings or the sleeve as well?

I'm thinking maybe the filters are in bypass and causing the light to come on maybe. It's kinda cold here -8 c and I added a jug of 10w30 to the hydraulic reservoir prior to the light coming on. (Manual says it was ok 🤷‍♂️)

Anyways I think I'll change the filters anyway and go from there. I read bobcat has some new cold climate fluid but looks $$$




Awesome, I'll definitely pull those out. One would assume you have to drain the hydraulic fluid reservoir prior to pulling those case drains... Or at least plug it. Maybe if the filters are in ok shape they can be cleaned with solvent and blown out.



That's a good idea, However I don't have a compressor that large.i think I'll spray some degreaser and fan the gunk away with my pressure washer. Maybe put a bag or 2 over areas that could be sensitive to water.




On a side note, does anyone know where the oil pressure sensor or switch is on that Isuzu motor?
The guy who owned it before me did a tear down and repainted. He didn't rebuild the pump but claims the engine was rebuilt. Aside from some wear and tear it's performing quite well.....time will tell though.
There is only an o-ring and teflon washer on the top part of the servo shaft. I did remove the inner sleeve to make sure it wasn't overly scored. Just be careful reinserting as there is a keyway slot that slides over a spot down inside. Just mark the orientation before removing and you should be good. It's surprising that it's just one bolt and the small o-ring holding the pressure on the servo......some have opted to double up the o-ring and eliminate the teflon washer.
Yeah you have to drain the tank to do the filters etc. I replaced the small inline filters but they do split apart, and I suppose you could clean the brass filter inside and reuse (I replaced). I went with AW-46 fluid but it takes 10-30 OEM. If you have to do any repairs between oil changes and need to drain the system, you could consider pouring it back in through a filter (that's what I did).
Careful use of a pressure sprayer works for me anyways. I just avoid the electrical connections as much as possible and use the compressor to blow out excess water.
 
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Mitch500

Mitch500

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Feb 4, 2024
Messages
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The guy who owned it before me did a tear down and repainted. He didn't rebuild the pump but claims the engine was rebuilt. Aside from some wear and tear it's performing quite well.....time will tell though.
There is only an o-ring and teflon washer on the top part of the servo shaft. I did remove the inner sleeve to make sure it wasn't overly scored. Just be careful reinserting as there is a keyway slot that slides over a spot down inside. Just mark the orientation before removing and you should be good. It's surprising that it's just one bolt and the small o-ring holding the pressure on the servo......some have opted to double up the o-ring and eliminate the teflon washer.
Yeah you have to drain the tank to do the filters etc. I replaced the small inline filters but they do split apart, and I suppose you could clean the brass filter inside and reuse (I replaced). I went with AW-46 fluid but it takes 10-30 OEM. If you have to do any repairs between oil changes and need to drain the system, you could consider pouring it back in through a filter (that's what I did).
Careful use of a pressure sprayer works for me anyways. I just avoid the electrical connections as much as possible and use the compressor to blow out excess water.
Thanks bud, I appreciate the info and your first hand knowledge. I was at the bobcat dealer today and they had all the o-rings and Teflon washers in stock. So that's a bonus. I did tell them I added 10w30 to the reservoir cause it was low (I added a 5 liter jug) he said that was removed from bobcat literature because you could only do that if you completely drain the system you could then add 10w30.

He said my machine would have came with this fluid from factory. He suggested to drain the reservoir fill with this fluid and run it for a few mines or so then to drain the reservoir again and fill with this fluid again to "flush" out the system. Pic below for said fluid :
20240209_111347.jpg
 

Tlawdogg

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Joined
May 22, 2020
Messages
138
Not too bad. You never know at a Bobcat dealer. 300-500% mark up on average.
I buy the aw32 (I'm much warmer climate) for about $70 us. And that is Pricey to me.
Keep us updated on your machine. Stay warm up there!
 
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Mitch500

Mitch500

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Joined
Feb 4, 2024
Messages
30
Ok did some work on it today. Bought myself a drill pump and sucked out the hydraulic reservoir. On the bottom of the tank I noticed the sock filter was laying there. I was wondering where it went.... Also inside of the sock was 2 caps from old oil bottles. This had me worried maybe another cap could be sitting in the tank or even sucked into that large hose going to the hydraulic pump. Tomorrow I'll remove the tank and inspect..

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I also changed the hydraulic filters. One was a different size than the other. But I replaced them with 2 Wix filters.

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I also removed the one case filter from the bottom of the reservoir. I opted to clean it out and blow out with air. There was some strange blue material on the bronze filter. 🤷‍♂️

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Anyways , more to come.
 

Tlawdogg

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Joined
May 22, 2020
Messages
138
I bet small pieces of the blue cap were in filter. The very top of my Hydraulic tank has the screen/sock with a large ring . Is yours missing ? Is the top ring there and sock fell in tank?
Did you replace the o-rings on the in-line filter? Make sure they are Good. Did you check for a second in-line filter? If you have a second one I would be it is on the left side. Right if you are looking from seat towards rear.
 
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Mitch500

Mitch500

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I bet small pieces of the blue cap were in filter. The very top of my Hydraulic tank has the screen/sock with a large ring . Is yours missing ? Is the top ring there and sock fell in tank?
Did you replace the o-rings on the in-line filter? Make sure they are Good. Did you check for a second in-line filter? If you have a second one I would be it is on the left side. Right if you are looking from seat towards rear.
Yes my sock and large ring are gone. I'm wondering if the ring is in the tank, it's hard to see in there with a flash light. I'm going to pull the tank and maybe slosh some diesel around in it to clean it out and inspect. That's a good call about the blue particles in the filter.

I did not replace the o-rings, they seemed fine. But maybe I should have and now's the time because the tanks empty.

Also yes I did see the other case drain, it's down deep under the large hydraulic hoses leading to the left side drive motor. I'll be pulling that today.
 

Tlawdogg

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May 22, 2020
Messages
138
Here are pictures of my Hydraulic screen for the tank. Looking at it I would guess the ring was tossed. It is larger than the fill hole. So it should not be in the tank.
 

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Mitch500

Mitch500

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Got around to getting the 2nd case drain out. It was pretty clean so I just blew it out and cleaned with solvent. I ended up pulling the hydraulic tank to clean that out as well, there was no additional oils caps inside 😂

Next I removed the servo spools and o-rings. They both came out easily, I opted to do the double oring method but unfortunately the top oring rolled over its lip on the sleeve and tore going back in. I think tomorrow I'll get some Vaseline and maybe slightly cool the sleeve and oring in the freezer.
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Is this groove supposed to be machined in the pump housing or is this the outcome of grit getting in there and wearing it out (hence the servo spool fix kit you can buy)

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