How do you chain down a bobcat to a trailer?

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cchardwick

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Jan 25, 2007
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I just bought a car transport trailer, 16 feet x 6.5 feet, and want to chain down my bobcat on the trailer, can anyone give me some advice on what kind of chains to buy, what are the regulations, and where to attach the chains to the bobcat?
 

V-TWIN

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Jan 31, 2007
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I am sure there are several ways to secure your machine, the way that works the best for me is to run a chain through the loop rear center of machine (853) to the trailer. With the machine on the trailer backwards drive the machine forward tightening the chain. Lock the parking brake, then throw the chain over the front quick-tach with the chains hooked forward of the machine. Then chain jack the front of the machine chain till both chains are tight. basically pulling the machine in both direction. A good 3/8 chain or bigger will be fine, with a binder or chain jack. " I had a hitch break putting me, truck, trailer, and machine all in the ditch skid-steer held on fine"
 

sterlclan

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I am sure there are several ways to secure your machine, the way that works the best for me is to run a chain through the loop rear center of machine (853) to the trailer. With the machine on the trailer backwards drive the machine forward tightening the chain. Lock the parking brake, then throw the chain over the front quick-tach with the chains hooked forward of the machine. Then chain jack the front of the machine chain till both chains are tight. basically pulling the machine in both direction. A good 3/8 chain or bigger will be fine, with a binder or chain jack. " I had a hitch break putting me, truck, trailer, and machine all in the ditch skid-steer held on fine"
Ive seen machines with a single chain on the rear slide on the deck...I use two on the back and one up front . Jeff
 

skidsteer.ca

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Ive seen machines with a single chain on the rear slide on the deck...I use two on the back and one up front . Jeff
The minimum were are allowed here is 3. You can't just loop a chain through the tie down ring it has to be hooked on the machine, so the machine can't slide sideways on the chain. Also the fron chains must to hooked to the frame od the loader then pass up over the attachment to secure it down to the trailer. I generally use 4 shorter 5/16 grd 70 chains as opposed to 2 longer ones.
Hook the rear ones pull the loader forward until they are tight, then run 2 front chains over the bucket and down to the tie down on the front. Pull the front one tight with beartraps and bungee the handles shut
Chains in any direction must have a minimum working load limit (WLL) of %50 of the load
I still need to put something on the backhoe bucket to tie the boom down
Ken
 

cchardwick

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The minimum were are allowed here is 3. You can't just loop a chain through the tie down ring it has to be hooked on the machine, so the machine can't slide sideways on the chain. Also the fron chains must to hooked to the frame od the loader then pass up over the attachment to secure it down to the trailer. I generally use 4 shorter 5/16 grd 70 chains as opposed to 2 longer ones.
Hook the rear ones pull the loader forward until they are tight, then run 2 front chains over the bucket and down to the tie down on the front. Pull the front one tight with beartraps and bungee the handles shut
Chains in any direction must have a minimum working load limit (WLL) of %50 of the load
I still need to put something on the backhoe bucket to tie the boom down
Ken
I should take some pics of my skid steer, I have nothing in the rear to tie it to, the only way I can figure is to run chains around the rear door from top to bottom on each side. The front is the same way, I have nothing on the frame to tie to. The only thing I can see is to run around the lift arms but I'm going to have to watch that I don't put pressure on the lift cylinders. I bought some chain / hooks / binder and I'll try to hook it up tomorrow. Maybe I'll post a pic or two so ppl can give some advice. The guy at Home Depot said he worked with the state with bobcats and they require four chains, one on each corner.
 

WebbCo

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Sep 19, 2006
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I should take some pics of my skid steer, I have nothing in the rear to tie it to, the only way I can figure is to run chains around the rear door from top to bottom on each side. The front is the same way, I have nothing on the frame to tie to. The only thing I can see is to run around the lift arms but I'm going to have to watch that I don't put pressure on the lift cylinders. I bought some chain / hooks / binder and I'll try to hook it up tomorrow. Maybe I'll post a pic or two so ppl can give some advice. The guy at Home Depot said he worked with the state with bobcats and they require four chains, one on each corner.
I would check with your local Highway patrol, they dish out the fines and set the rules.
All of my salespeople have had an issue with the law doing it just right, and when we think we got it all down correct... the HP changes the rules....
Hope your car hauler is up to the task...most are not.

Mark
 

140mower

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I should take some pics of my skid steer, I have nothing in the rear to tie it to, the only way I can figure is to run chains around the rear door from top to bottom on each side. The front is the same way, I have nothing on the frame to tie to. The only thing I can see is to run around the lift arms but I'm going to have to watch that I don't put pressure on the lift cylinders. I bought some chain / hooks / binder and I'll try to hook it up tomorrow. Maybe I'll post a pic or two so ppl can give some advice. The guy at Home Depot said he worked with the state with bobcats and they require four chains, one on each corner.
With-out seeing your machine and what it has for chain points, what I would do is wrap the chain around the axle tubes, hooking the chain to it's self then attach to the opposite side of the trailer. When finished both the front and rear chains should form an “X” across the deck of the trailer. Also, make sure you pull over after the first mile or so and re-tighten the chains, as rubber tired machines are notorious for bouncing loose, but after a re-tighten seem to hold put quite well. I always use four chains and four binders, and don't forget to bungey or wire the binders closed. Also, around here to be legal you should be using grade 70 transport chain and hooks.
Something to consider with your trailer is that the weight really adds up fast. On my 14000lbs trailer almost 2500lbs is used just in the weight of the trailer it's self, add a skid and a couple attachments and suddenly there isn't much available gvw left over. Also what is your tow vehicle rated for? Being legal sure isn't cheap, no matter how you look at it.
emotion-7.gif

Hope some of this helps some or atleast makes a little sense.
Don
 

jmatt20

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With-out seeing your machine and what it has for chain points, what I would do is wrap the chain around the axle tubes, hooking the chain to it's self then attach to the opposite side of the trailer. When finished both the front and rear chains should form an “X” across the deck of the trailer. Also, make sure you pull over after the first mile or so and re-tighten the chains, as rubber tired machines are notorious for bouncing loose, but after a re-tighten seem to hold put quite well. I always use four chains and four binders, and don't forget to bungey or wire the binders closed. Also, around here to be legal you should be using grade 70 transport chain and hooks.
Something to consider with your trailer is that the weight really adds up fast. On my 14000lbs trailer almost 2500lbs is used just in the weight of the trailer it's self, add a skid and a couple attachments and suddenly there isn't much available gvw left over. Also what is your tow vehicle rated for? Being legal sure isn't cheap, no matter how you look at it.
Hope some of this helps some or atleast makes a little sense.
Don
in CA. you must have four separate tie down chains or straps ,on my older machine i used the backhoe mounting balls in the front and in the back there where slots on the lower side of the machine also on the axle braces there were slots that a hook would fit. on my s220 i use four nylon straps with ratchets ,rated at 10000 lbs each ...15.00 bucks at home depot and D.O.T. approved . the 220 has two loops of steal on the front of the boom just above the bucket,and in the back i put the hooks in the hole you use to grease the back of the lift arms. if you tie the machine down without tieing over or to the lift arms you must also have a tie down for the lift arms so they can not come up during transport. the old way where you hooked to one side of the machine then thru the d ring on one side of the trailer across the deck thru the other d ring and then to the other side of the machine is not acceptable to the chp it give you a four point tie down, but not four separate chains or straps. i know ,83 dollar ticket.
 

skidsteer.ca

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in CA. you must have four separate tie down chains or straps ,on my older machine i used the backhoe mounting balls in the front and in the back there where slots on the lower side of the machine also on the axle braces there were slots that a hook would fit. on my s220 i use four nylon straps with ratchets ,rated at 10000 lbs each ...15.00 bucks at home depot and D.O.T. approved . the 220 has two loops of steal on the front of the boom just above the bucket,and in the back i put the hooks in the hole you use to grease the back of the lift arms. if you tie the machine down without tieing over or to the lift arms you must also have a tie down for the lift arms so they can not come up during transport. the old way where you hooked to one side of the machine then thru the d ring on one side of the trailer across the deck thru the other d ring and then to the other side of the machine is not acceptable to the chp it give you a four point tie down, but not four separate chains or straps. i know ,83 dollar ticket.
At least th Ca fines are not to bad, insecure in Ontarion is $390 Smallest commercial vehicle fine is 290
And they are neither nice or resonable about it
Ken
 

cchardwick

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Jan 25, 2007
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At least th Ca fines are not to bad, insecure in Ontarion is $390 Smallest commercial vehicle fine is 290
And they are neither nice or resonable about it
Ken
OK, I made a web page with photos to show you guys what I have so far. Check it out and post comments / suggestions: http://www.capsandstems.com/ed/bobcat_tiedown.htm
 

Tazza

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OK, I made a web page with photos to show you guys what I have so far. Check it out and post comments / suggestions: http://www.capsandstems.com/ed/bobcat_tiedown.htm
It all looks good to me except the back door. I honestly wouldn't trust holding a 2 odd tonne machine down by holding on to the rear door like that. My 743 has tie down points near each axle tube and also has them on the side of the main chassis rite at the back corners.
 

nobull1

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Jan 4, 2007
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It all looks good to me except the back door. I honestly wouldn't trust holding a 2 odd tonne machine down by holding on to the rear door like that. My 743 has tie down points near each axle tube and also has them on the side of the main chassis rite at the back corners.
When you added the larger hooks did you make sure they were grade 70. The DOT guys will consider the strength of the chain by the weakest part. As was said previous I don't think I would use the door for securing the machine. The cost of having a couple of hooks/rings added wouldn't be very much, and then you would know it's secure.
 

cchardwick

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Jan 25, 2007
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When you added the larger hooks did you make sure they were grade 70. The DOT guys will consider the strength of the chain by the weakest part. As was said previous I don't think I would use the door for securing the machine. The cost of having a couple of hooks/rings added wouldn't be very much, and then you would know it's secure.
Yea, I wish I had tie down points but unfortunatly with this older machine I don't and have to improvise. That back door is as solid as a tank, probably 1/2 inch steel and weighs a ton. I bet it's stronger than any hook out there, although not as pretty as some hooks would be. Although I'm sure the state trooper has the final say as to what is secure enough and proper. As for the extra hooks on the ends of the chains, they were not grade 70 but the chain and hooks that I bought that were grade 70 had a working load strength of 4700 pounds. I got the extra hooks non-grade 70 in a larger size because the larger ones had a working load of 4700 pounds and I wanted it all to match as far as load rating. What do you think about the nylon strap around the back of the bucket? Do I really need it and did I strap it right? I was thinking maybe I should have went over the bucket and down around the front, what is the purpose suppose to be, to secure the arms or secure the bucket? With the chains going around the lift arms and the hook on the frame I'm thinking I may not need the strap. I stopped by a bobcat and trailer that is used at our elementary school down the road and they got it all wrong LOL, I'm glad you guys are helping me out here. They used one chain on the front and just looped it through a hook in the middle so it looks like it can slide sideways. I'm glad I didn't use that for an example of how it's supposed to be done. Man I need some rear view mirrors on this skid steer because it's real scary driving up ramps in reverse when you can't see the ramps or the trailer! I bet that's why they moved the arms to a different position on the newer skid steers. I'm thinking of running out today and getting some mirrors that will attach to the ROPS and swing out to the side for loading and back in for driving.
 

nobull1

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Yea, I wish I had tie down points but unfortunatly with this older machine I don't and have to improvise. That back door is as solid as a tank, probably 1/2 inch steel and weighs a ton. I bet it's stronger than any hook out there, although not as pretty as some hooks would be. Although I'm sure the state trooper has the final say as to what is secure enough and proper. As for the extra hooks on the ends of the chains, they were not grade 70 but the chain and hooks that I bought that were grade 70 had a working load strength of 4700 pounds. I got the extra hooks non-grade 70 in a larger size because the larger ones had a working load of 4700 pounds and I wanted it all to match as far as load rating. What do you think about the nylon strap around the back of the bucket? Do I really need it and did I strap it right? I was thinking maybe I should have went over the bucket and down around the front, what is the purpose suppose to be, to secure the arms or secure the bucket? With the chains going around the lift arms and the hook on the frame I'm thinking I may not need the strap. I stopped by a bobcat and trailer that is used at our elementary school down the road and they got it all wrong LOL, I'm glad you guys are helping me out here. They used one chain on the front and just looped it through a hook in the middle so it looks like it can slide sideways. I'm glad I didn't use that for an example of how it's supposed to be done. Man I need some rear view mirrors on this skid steer because it's real scary driving up ramps in reverse when you can't see the ramps or the trailer! I bet that's why they moved the arms to a different position on the newer skid steers. I'm thinking of running out today and getting some mirrors that will attach to the ROPS and swing out to the side for loading and back in for driving.
Quote: Man I need some rear view mirrors on this skid steer because it's real scary driving up ramps in reverse when you can't see the ramps or the trailer.
I have the same issue and have a thread going trying to find a good solution. It is just too cold out at present to fool with the mirrors and brackets, but I will be at it soon.
As far as the door goes I don't see it as a problem so long as the there isn't anyway for it to come unlatched. If that was to happen it might become a issue.
When I first started hauling my tractor and excavator I went to the people who give out the fines and said; “what do I need to do to keep you happy“. The first thing they said was nobody ever calls us to ask that. The fact that I did made it easy to get a little of his time. In our area you need at least 4 chains of grade 70, criscrossed and secured. If you have a bucket it is supposed to have a separate chain for the bucket to make sure the arm/bucket cannot move. Myself I use four for my excavator but the front ones cisscross over the bucket and between the teeth, so there is no way for the bucket to move. I would think that the bucket on the skidsteer would have to be secured in a similiar way. All of this you can find out from your local authorities. I'm sure they can tell you what they consider important, and the proper way of doing things. In our area if you get in a accident with a piece of heavy equipment, they are all over you with inspectors and whatever. If they can find fault with what you did or the equipment your using, you are in big trouble.
 

cchardwick

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Quote: Man I need some rear view mirrors on this skid steer because it's real scary driving up ramps in reverse when you can't see the ramps or the trailer.
I have the same issue and have a thread going trying to find a good solution. It is just too cold out at present to fool with the mirrors and brackets, but I will be at it soon.
As far as the door goes I don't see it as a problem so long as the there isn't anyway for it to come unlatched. If that was to happen it might become a issue.
When I first started hauling my tractor and excavator I went to the people who give out the fines and said; “what do I need to do to keep you happy“. The first thing they said was nobody ever calls us to ask that. The fact that I did made it easy to get a little of his time. In our area you need at least 4 chains of grade 70, criscrossed and secured. If you have a bucket it is supposed to have a separate chain for the bucket to make sure the arm/bucket cannot move. Myself I use four for my excavator but the front ones cisscross over the bucket and between the teeth, so there is no way for the bucket to move. I would think that the bucket on the skidsteer would have to be secured in a similiar way. All of this you can find out from your local authorities. I'm sure they can tell you what they consider important, and the proper way of doing things. In our area if you get in a accident with a piece of heavy equipment, they are all over you with inspectors and whatever. If they can find fault with what you did or the equipment your using, you are in big trouble.
Speaking of mirrors, I've been working on the problem myself and found the best place to put a mirror, on the lift arms. I searched the web and found one photo, check this out: http://www.mirrorproject.com/show-image.mirror?id=19306
 

nobull1

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Speaking of mirrors, I've been working on the problem myself and found the best place to put a mirror, on the lift arms. I searched the web and found one photo, check this out: http://www.mirrorproject.com/show-image.mirror?id=19306
That will work for mirrors for sure, but I would like to be able to have them tucked under the arms if possible(convex). I know if they are stuck out I will hit them sooner or later. In the end your pic might be the best answer though. If the weather ever gets back to above freezing for a day or to I might be able to figure it out.
 

cchardwick

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That will work for mirrors for sure, but I would like to be able to have them tucked under the arms if possible(convex). I know if they are stuck out I will hit them sooner or later. In the end your pic might be the best answer though. If the weather ever gets back to above freezing for a day or to I might be able to figure it out.
I just got back from my local Case dealer and I was surprised that the only mirror they offered was a large rear view mirror, useless for backing up on a trailer but good for avioding buildings. Looks like there is a good market for bobcat mirrors if anyone is looking for a good product to produce and market! Seems like it would be easy to make one that clamps onto the arm with a pivot / swivel that will fold out for backing up on a trailer and fold down flat against the top of the arm for everyday use.
 

nobull1

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I just got back from my local Case dealer and I was surprised that the only mirror they offered was a large rear view mirror, useless for backing up on a trailer but good for avioding buildings. Looks like there is a good market for bobcat mirrors if anyone is looking for a good product to produce and market! Seems like it would be easy to make one that clamps onto the arm with a pivot / swivel that will fold out for backing up on a trailer and fold down flat against the top of the arm for everyday use.
Sounds good to me. Do some research and get it work, than post pictures so we all can benefit LOL. Seriously though I think your on the right track. I am just amazed that someone hasn't figured this out before.
 

pro70z28

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Mar 12, 2007
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Sounds good to me. Do some research and get it work, than post pictures so we all can benefit LOL. Seriously though I think your on the right track. I am just amazed that someone hasn't figured this out before.
I just registered on this site tonight. I'm glad I stumbled across this thread. I don't know if you can see in the pic of the front, but I tie everything down on my trailer with hitch pins. (don't know if you can see the red Pins?). I have a rack bolted to the trailer that holds all the attachments. I hold the Bobcat in place by running the forks iinto square tubing that is part of the attachment frame. Then pin it in place with 2 hitch pins through fabricated clevices that are part of the attachment frame. I have ratchet straps for the back, (I don't use them all the time, but will from now on). The mini track loader is about 2,500 lbs. After reading this thread I'm thinking maybe I should replace the straps for chains? Don't need any fines.
 
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