My s250 pins in the lower bob-tach have some play in them, also the tilt cylinder has play in it. I priced out the pins and bushings and they aren't to bad in price so I was thinking about replacing them. So I was wondering how do you remove the bushings in the cylinders, also how do you take the lower pins out, and new ones back in? Is it a pain to do? Thanks all.
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lower pins are not bad. Take out the grease zerk take out the bolt and drive the pins out. put new pin in quick attach and hold in place screw a piece of threaded rod into pin and use a nut to pull the taper in so you can loctite the new bolts in. The cylinder bushings can be pounded out with the right size driver. If you have a welder you can weld arount the inside of the bushing shrinking it t make it easier.
Easiest way I find to remove the bushings in the tilt cylinder is weld a big nut inside and drive it. A lot easier then a bushing driver. Pretty much same idea with the lower pivot pin bushings. Except I use a port a power to move those. To pull the pins, remove the snap ring holding the plug with the grease zerk in it, remove the bolt. The pins will either fall out of the boom, or you will have to beat the snot out of them with a 20 lbs maul. Having to beat them out is a good thing as it shows the bore in the arm is good. If they fall out, the bore has to be reamed. If the pin doesn't fit tight, it will turn and loosen. It will be a never ending battle to keep tight.
Thanks for the help guys, dumb question I am sure but do which way do you hammer the lower pins to get them out? I am just guessing but I betting hammer from the outside in? Thanks.
yup clear as mud hammer them in to hammer them out.
Well, I picked up the parts yesterday to do it. Now the fun begins. I will post my progress with it!
HarryN
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- Aug 28, 2011
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Here is a nice You Tube Video showing the pin replacement. Helps make sense of how it works. A nice visual I haven't seen before. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sAr1kdcm6uc
Thanks for the shout out in the video. He is pretty correct in his explanation of mid frame skidsteer. One thing to point out, you would only need to take the Bob tach to a machine shop, if it was ran loose too long that it wore passed the bushing and into the Bob tach itself. Large frame machines are the same basic idea, just done a little different. The pin isn't treaded, but rather the bolt comes threw from the inside with the but out. There is a cap you remove to get at the bolt.
on some of our older machines we welded in new bosses in the quick attatch lately buy the time it is that wore the rest of the quick attatch is wore out and we replace it although at 1500 bucks a piece that is getting more painful
Well day one never progressed very well! The circlips that hold the grease fittings in we're seized in there grove. Bent my brand new pliers getting them out. Got them out, now can't get the plate with the grease fitting out, so I thought I could just loosen the nut on the pin, then tap the end of the bolt out up against the plate with the grease nipple to get it out. My plan never worked, I got the nut loose on the pin, then the bolt slipped and can't loosen it anymore. So I went and got some 1/8" pipe nipples I am going to thread in the grease nipple holes, then make a puller to pull the plates. That's tomorrow's job! Will keep everyone updated, and thanks for the help and the video!
I made a slide hammer attachment to pull the caps. I welded the zerk at an angle so the slide hammer will clear the other side of the bob tach.
I had thought about a slide hammer, but don't have one on hand. I managed to make my little puller and got the caps and bolts out of the pins finally! Then went to pound out the pins, and my only punch big enough is a tapered one, and I am just going to drive it into the pin and wedge it there. So this afternoon I am going to pick up a lathe so I can machine did down and get them out! So I might not get the pins out till tomorrow now, but no biggie!
You should be able to run something slightly larger than the bolt into the whole where the bolt goes and drive the pin out. I just did the pins on a S220. Once I've got the pins out, I weld the old pin into the bushing and drive it all out. If you weld the old pin to the bushing good enough you can use it to drive the new bushing in. I use a thick piece of flat steel to drive the bushing until it's flush then I use the pin/bushing to drive it the rest of the way in. Hope this helps. I think I use a 3/4 grade 8 bolt to drive the tapered pins out.
Just did pins on our t-190. Used a 3/4" bolt to try to drive the broken pin out. ended up driving the 3/4" bolt into the 5/8" hole. Ended up cutting it out with the torch.
Well success! Got my new lathe yesterday, machined a shoulder on my punch. Two good whacks with a 8lbs sledge and the pins popped out! I was afraid of hammering in something soft like a bolt and have it get stuck in there like farmshop. Then I welded around the bushings, put the old pin in them, and a few whacks with a 6lb hammer they popped out too. New ones were a pain to put in, but got them in. I did run into a little problem though, the hole were the bushings go into are a wee bit worn at the end. When I went to install the seals, I could push them in with my hands and pull them out easy. Was going to get some of that loctite bearing retainer and out that on them to hopefully keep them in, unless someone else has any ideas? Thanks for all the help guys!
It depends on just how worn the boss is, loctite will only take up so much wear.
We just use more grease.
I wouldn't get too worked up about the grease seals. Once the bore is worn to where they don't fit tight, gluing them in doesn't hold for long. Make sure you install correctly. It feel like you are putting them in backwards because you want the grease to push pass it.
Well, thanks for all the help guys! I got it all back together tonight! Went pretty smooth with all your help! Now to get to work with it....
