Ken, the stems on both side of the aluminum block don't have any moving parts?, it takes a 1" socket to remove them, hope were talking about the same thing?, although the rear one looks has a plunger inside a tube with holes. Thanks for letting me know about the torque specs on the nut, I tightened by hand and could have over done it?. I saw the large PB solenoid in the center and wondered what it was for, thanks. I found and purchased a 'operators manual' on ebay, I have the service manual but thought the OM would help, all my controls are on the handles with lots of switches?. I may be wrong but after looking over the service manual, the aluminum block we were discussing looks like it's the 'diverter' valve' for remote hydraulics, which I don't need right now. looking at the manual again, all the hyd. lines from the cylinders go the main hyd. control valve. I'm hoping it's a bad solenoid?. There are only 1014 hours on the BC and don't mind spending some $ to get it working. Model 512819835 There are lights to the right and behind the seat, the seat belt light is on and the 'valve' light is on?. Also there is a 'blinking' light on the instrument panel, top right corner of cab. Thanks for helping me out on this, the more I stay with it, the more I learn. Perry
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Quote by Ken: My bucket tilt cylinder will move a inch or 2 with the safety valve locked, but the boom will barely move at all. Ken, is there a way to disconnect the safety valve just to check if it's the problem?. Thanks
I'm going to try one more time to locate the problem by tracing the hyd. lines from the lift cylinders back to whatever control valve, I just wished there was a reference to direct me the possible problem, with pictures. Found a BC mechanic that will come over for $50 hour, I might do this because I don't believe it's a major problem, it drives and turns great, the dam arms and tilt ony move a little.
Ken or anyone who would know, Does my 853 purge air from the hyd. system automatically?.
ALL *bobcat* machines will self purge their hydraulic system, just lift the arms up and down a few times, it may take a little while for it to go, but it will clear on its own.
skidsteer.ca
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Perry
I'll take a pic and post it for you. The needles are inside the stems we have been discussing.
Ken
Thanks Ken, that will definitely help, A highly recommended mobile mechanic came by and spent about an hour checking it out, he has worked on a few BC but mainly larger rigs, he said it was an electrical problem and he would check with a mechanic at the local BC distributor for more details. He did manage to get the all the check lights to operate except for the seat safety light, I ask if he could just by-pass the seat light and he wasn't sure?. The connection has three or four wires probably to keep folks from doing just that?. Is there a way to by-pass the seat switch and still have the machine operate?. Thanks, Perry
skidsteer.ca
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That seat switch (and the seat bar) switches are activated by moving a small magnet (the cylindical center part of the switch) into close proximity to the outside part of the switch. Often debris would get caught under the seat and cause a jam that would not let the seat move down from the weight of the operator. The seat switch prove problematic enough that Bobcat finally came out with a press to operate button to substitute for the seat switch.
The only way to bypass it that I know would be to remove the switch (but leave the wires connected) and move the center part of the switch around until you get the seat light (key must be on, by the way all the bics lights should flash on when you turn on the key just to tell you the bics box is Ok) to come on on the bics box. Then glue the center part in that position with something like Shoo Goo
Ken
skidsteer.ca
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Here is a photo of the safety valve on my 853 C
To see it you need to stand on the left side of the loader and look under the boom arm towards the loaders right side. If you put ground to one of the wires attached to the coil I circled and Positive/ power to the other wire the coils magnetic field will move the needle within the stem the coil is slid over top of and the valve should unlock allowing movement of the lift and tilt functions. You should also be able to hear it make a light clicking as you apply and remove the power to the coil.
Is this the valve you were looking at?
Ken
Yes Ken, that's the one. I'm not sure what needle your talking about, after I removed the coil, I used a 1" socket to remove the 'whatever you call it', the part that's inside is about 3" long and has o-rings and it's stepped, it has no moving parts?. On the oppsite side of the aluminum block and directly in-line with what I removed, there is another 'whatever you call iy', this was also removed with a 1'' socket, the inside part has a round shaft with holes and a plunger inside that probably moves. I cleaned them and noticed no damaged or dirt, reinstalled, hooked everything backup and still nothing. Can I check the coil while it's removed?, I don't want to put 12 volts to it when it normally gets 7.5 volts.
Thanks for the seat switch info. After the mechanic fooled around with the relays, the seat switch is the only light that stays on, hopefully I'll get it 'OPERATING' in the next couple of days. I'm not very good with electrical stuff as you can tell, I wired up my kit car which was fairly simple but, had to get a electrical guru over here to wire up my turn signals. I'll let you know what happens.......... Thanks
skidsteer.ca
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Perry
The coil should generate a magetic field when power is going to it. If you power it up and remove the nut that hold it on the "what ever you call it = Stem" the coil should be trying to either pull itself on the stem or push itself off with a noticable magnet pull. No pull and power coming to the coil mean you need a new coil. Beside the magnetic pull you should be able to hear a gentle "click"
I'd don't think you will hurt the coil with 12 volt as I bypassed the bics and put power straight to that coil on my 553 until I figured out the seat switch. But you are taking a risk by doing this. I used it 20 hours or so this way. However I never test it to see if it was less then 12v supplied by the bics.
Ken
Ken, looks like it's all electrical problems, I'll check and purchase the coil if necessary, thanks for staying with me on this mess. Purchased a FLUKE meter to check all connections, I should be able to track the problems. I missed purchasing an 'operators manual' on ebay by a few bucks, I'll see if BC has one in stock. The service manual doesn't gen into problem solving. Again, Thanks for your assistance. Perry
Ken, I removed both stems to show you what I have, the stem on the right has the solinoid and no moving parts that I can see?. The one on the left was removed from the same aluminum block, it was on the oher side and directly opposite the other stem, it has a plunger inside the stem that moves from pressure.....I think?.
I looked all over the web site and no option to post pictures?
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skidsteer.ca
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Perry
You have to go under the "Media" tab at the vary top of each page and select "photos" from the drop down menu.
Then you can select the "album" to "upload" your images into. There are a few threads about this on this forum, Just type photo into the search engine.
Was thinking you could maybe try a 6 volt lattern battery on that coil and check it with your new fluke meter to see if it has "continuity" as a burnt out coil will show a "open" circuit.
Ken
Hey guys it's fixed, drove up to the BC distributor and they let me in the shop to talk to the mechanics, after explaining the problems they told me to get the 'push to operate' kit, about $250. It included a new computer and push to operate button when you install the kit you can toss the seat sensor, they said BC had a lot of problems with the seat sensor and came up with this kit that solved the problem. I also purchased a new spool and solenoid for the aux. hyd.. I appreciate everyone's help and suggestions. Perry
Good to hear you're up and running. Sometimes these things can be very frustrating, but now that you've got it, hopefully all will be good from here on out. My 763 has one of those push to operate buttons on it (had it when I got it) but the seat switch is still installed as well. Sometimes I don't have to push the button and other times I do, but I'm finding the cleaner my machine gets the less I have to push the button.
Don
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The "pto" button just activates the coil we have been dicussing. Your seat bar switch still needs to function but not the switch on the seat. I still find it a pain to push the button after I have pulled down the seat bar. But it is reliable. My 553 has not had the update to the pto button but my 853 has. After initially getting the seat and seat bar switches set correctly I have no problem with either. The 553 is a little nicer because the seat bar comes down and your ready to roll. I still find myself trying to take off in the 853 b4 hitting the button. (habit from the 553)
Should put up some pics of the seat and safety bar switches. Activating the switch is just a matter of moving a small magnet into close (proper) promimity to the other side(sensor part) of the switch. With the seat one often a small rock , pop can prevented movement or operator that was to small to compress the seat mounting down, So after numerous complaints Bobcat finally came out with a pto button that replaced the seat switch to solve the problem.
Glad to hear your running with a farely minor repair
Ken
