1993 NH L785 seat belt light stays on. Will not start.

[deaop06]

I'm not sure why they used a diode resister. I think the seat switches are nothing more than to send signal to the control box to tell it there is someone on the seat . Not sure why they didn't use straight 12v like they did with the seat belt. Instead. The volts must drop 1.4 to 1.6 volts for the control box to recognize It. Anyway, it's my understanding that if the volts are to high or to low nothing works. In this case the 10.6v is in the right range of voltage. Not sure all of this is fact. But is what I have pick up via online.

Davidm$, First I am not sure what your problem is or how to fix it. If I were you I would fix the seat switches with new ones. I got mine from Grasshopper mowers at around 10 each. My machine has a built in resister in the harness. I also ended up getting a new seat belt as the hookup would be intermittent. It ran fine after that. Staying with the original design is best. Check to see if your machine has the seat switch resister in the harness. Bypassing this may send the wrong signal to the controller. I had one switch that had a cracked prong. It looked good but was not making good contact. Good luck. Ron

 

[Davidm$]

Davidm$, First I am not sure what your problem is or how to fix it. If I were you I would fix the seat switches with new ones. I got mine from Grasshopper mowers at around 10 each. My machine has a built in resister in the harness. I also ended up getting a new seat belt as the hookup would be intermittent. It ran fine after that. Staying with the original design is best. Check to see if your machine has the seat switch resister in the harness. Bypassing this may send the wrong signal to the controller. I had one switch that had a cracked prong. It looked good but was not making good contact. Good luck. Ron

deaop06. Thanks your your post. Yes, mine also has the resister between the two prong connector and safety seat switches. When I bypassed the seat switches, I left the resister inline. The seat belt switch is straight forward. 12v in and 12v out. I do however plan on a new seat, switches and seat harness w/resister after I find the problem. I know that on occasion there is low voltage (11.1)leaving the control module to the seat. Just need to do more testing to see if it's because the control module is bad or if it is low voltage going to the module. Again. This is a Intermittent problem so have to wait for it to start working and stop working to check all. I feel the low voltage 11.1 is the problem. Just need to find where and way.

 

[Davidm$]

deaop06. Thanks your your post. Yes, mine also has the resister between the two prong connector and safety seat switches. When I bypassed the seat switches, I left the resister inline. The seat belt switch is straight forward. 12v in and 12v out. I do however plan on a new seat, switches and seat harness w/resister after I find the problem. I know that on occasion there is low voltage (11.1)leaving the control module to the seat. Just need to do more testing to see if it's because the control module is bad or if it is low voltage going to the module. Again. This is a Intermittent problem so have to wait for it to start working and stop working to check all. I feel the low voltage 11.1 is the problem. Just need to find where and way.

Well. Here is where everything is standing as of this moment. When the skid steer starts: with that humming sound from the control box: there is 12.4v going TO the control box, 12.4v leaving the control box,12.4v into the diode and 10.9v going back to the control box from the diode. When the skid steer does not start: no humming sound from the control box. there is 12.4v going TO the control box, 12.4v leaving the control box,12.4v into the diode and 10.9v going back to the control box from the diode. So my question. Is the control box bad? Thinking I found a place that has a new one for 670.00. But really don't want to spend the money if that isn't the problem. With that said, don't mind spending the money IF that is the problem. Feedback is greatly appreciated.

 

[Davidm$]

Well. Here is where everything is standing as of this moment. When the skid steer starts: with that humming sound from the control box: there is 12.4v going TO the control box, 12.4v leaving the control box,12.4v into the diode and 10.9v going back to the control box from the diode. When the skid steer does not start: no humming sound from the control box. there is 12.4v going TO the control box, 12.4v leaving the control box,12.4v into the diode and 10.9v going back to the control box from the diode. So my question. Is the control box bad? Thinking I found a place that has a new one for 670.00. But really don't want to spend the money if that isn't the problem. With that said, don't mind spending the money IF that is the problem. Feedback is greatly appreciated.

Added info for above last post. This problem can/well happen at any time. Can work fine for two weeks or two seconds. Can happen while running the machine or just sitting there. Like I said, have toggle switches replacing seat and seat belt switches. And can happen just reaching in and flipping the switches. (Example) this morning I reached in, turned on the seat switch and heard that hum. So flipped it off to go get the volt meter (4 seconds) flipped it back on and no hum. Than waited a hour or so to have it working again. But, it can work in just the opposite way.

 

[Davidm$]

Added info for above last post. This problem can/well happen at any time. Can work fine for two weeks or two seconds. Can happen while running the machine or just sitting there. Like I said, have toggle switches replacing seat and seat belt switches. And can happen just reaching in and flipping the switches. (Example) this morning I reached in, turned on the seat switch and heard that hum. So flipped it off to go get the volt meter (4 seconds) flipped it back on and no hum. Than waited a hour or so to have it working again. But, it can work in just the opposite way.

Would love to hear from Mike10 and get his take.

 

[Tazza]

Would love to hear from Mike10 and get his take.

His email address isn't public on his profile, so you can't even send him a message
Hopefully he will eventually see this post.

 

[Davidm$]

His email address isn't public on his profile, so you can't even send him a message
Hopefully he will eventually see this post.

Thanks tazza. Last update. It's (fixed). Well, it works now anyway. I dug out the ohm meter tonight and everything ran from .1 to .3, could ask for anything better than that. And still no start. So, I ended up fixing it redneck style (after all, I am one). I unhooked the two prong connectors at the lockout Solenoids, turned them a little and hooded only the ground sides back up again. Leaving the hot side open to the solenoid. Ran a hot wire from the battery into the cab. Put in a 15 amp inline fuse, than to a toggle switch. Ran two wire from there, one to each solenoids hot side. Crimped one the new female plugs and what do you know. It works just fine """"IN SERVICE MODE"". I know it's not factory but it's Functional.