Fuel Injector removal

[K9]

Does Yanmar make a removal tool for their fuel injectors? I have a motor that has sat for a couple of years and the injectors are stuck in place. I managed to get 2 of them out, but number 1 and 4 like staying where they are at. So far, the engine does not run, so warming it is not an option. The engine is a 4TNE84-EMS. There are no ears for getting a firm grip or prying on it. Thank Ken

 

[Tazza]

How do they come out? do they just slide out with a retaining arm that pushes down to hold them in place? If so, they generally use a slide hammer. It screws onto the threaded part that the fuel tube goes to and you knock them out. Can you find a nut that will screw onto the threaded part and lever from there? I can think of how to make a puller, but you would need a lathe to do it.

 

[K9]

How do they come out? do they just slide out with a retaining arm that pushes down to hold them in place? If so, they generally use a slide hammer. It screws onto the threaded part that the fuel tube goes to and you knock them out. Can you find a nut that will screw onto the threaded part and lever from there? I can think of how to make a puller, but you would need a lathe to do it.

You have the right idea. They are SUPPOSED to lift out once the retaining arm is removed, but apparently, they are frozen in place. Used a generous amount of PB blaster and nothing moved. I ended up using some various lengths of 3/4 inch PVC which encloses the injector, placing a thick washer on top and essentially making a gear puller by running a nut down the thread like you suggested. By doing this, I was able to get 2 of the 4 injectors out, but I am starting to stretch the threads on the other two because I have to get so aggressive with them. I am hoping that when my new injectors come, I can replace the 2 that are already out, replace my lift pump, and get adequate fuel to the injectors that i can finally start this engine and maybe the other 2 will come out once they are rattled a bit. I will need to investigate the slide hammer idea. I am getting desperate and trying to minimize damage. Thanks for the reply. Ken

 

[Tazza]

You have the right idea. They are SUPPOSED to lift out once the retaining arm is removed, but apparently, they are frozen in place. Used a generous amount of PB blaster and nothing moved. I ended up using some various lengths of 3/4 inch PVC which encloses the injector, placing a thick washer on top and essentially making a gear puller by running a nut down the thread like you suggested. By doing this, I was able to get 2 of the 4 injectors out, but I am starting to stretch the threads on the other two because I have to get so aggressive with them. I am hoping that when my new injectors come, I can replace the 2 that are already out, replace my lift pump, and get adequate fuel to the injectors that i can finally start this engine and maybe the other 2 will come out once they are rattled a bit. I will need to investigate the slide hammer idea. I am getting desperate and trying to minimize damage. Thanks for the reply. Ken

Can you tap the sides of the injectors to try and knock them loose while trying to pull them out like you are doing now?

 

[K9]

Can you tap the sides of the injectors to try and knock them loose while trying to pull them out like you are doing now?

Tazza, I appreciate your assistance... I have tapped and maybe even whacked the things a couple of times and they will not let go. I am awaiting my new injectors now and hoping that the new fuel lift pump will make it create some horsepower and I can rattle the other 2 loose after a gentle break in period. Ken

 

[Tazza]

Tazza, I appreciate your assistance... I have tapped and maybe even whacked the things a couple of times and they will not let go. I am awaiting my new injectors now and hoping that the new fuel lift pump will make it create some horsepower and I can rattle the other 2 loose after a gentle break in period. Ken

Let's hope it works. Do let me know how you go.

 

[K9]

Let's hope it works. Do let me know how you go.

Tazza, I still cannot get those remaining fuel injectors out. I have tried just about every lubricant that claims it can free rusted/frozen parts. PB Blaster, wd 40, kroil, ATF, teflon lube, and ATF mixed with acetone. I can wiggle the fuel injector slightly, but there is only about 1.5 inches exposed above the head that you can wiggle, while about 2.5 - 3 inches is inserted in the bore, so a slight wiggle does not equal succes when so much is internal. My question, can 2 of the 4 nozzles being bad prevent the engine from starting? I would think I could at least get a cough out of it with 2 good nozzles. I would love to hear this engine roar. Ken

 

[Bobcatdan]

Tazza, I still cannot get those remaining fuel injectors out. I have tried just about every lubricant that claims it can free rusted/frozen parts. PB Blaster, wd 40, kroil, ATF, teflon lube, and ATF mixed with acetone. I can wiggle the fuel injector slightly, but there is only about 1.5 inches exposed above the head that you can wiggle, while about 2.5 - 3 inches is inserted in the bore, so a slight wiggle does not equal succes when so much is internal. My question, can 2 of the 4 nozzles being bad prevent the engine from starting? I would think I could at least get a cough out of it with 2 good nozzles. I would love to hear this engine roar. Ken

What did it do before taking it about? Was it getting fuel to the injectors? Did it puff at all like it was trying to burn fuel? Two injectors working would hit, but most likely not be able to carry it threw and run, at least starting. I know you havn't been able to check compression see how the injectors are still, but did it turn over like it did? I would pop the valve cover off to make sure the vavletrain looks good. I don't remember if they had a rocker shaft, but if it broke, the valves would not be activated.

 

[K9]

What did it do before taking it about? Was it getting fuel to the injectors? Did it puff at all like it was trying to burn fuel? Two injectors working would hit, but most likely not be able to carry it threw and run, at least starting. I know you havn't been able to check compression see how the injectors are still, but did it turn over like it did? I would pop the valve cover off to make sure the vavletrain looks good. I don't remember if they had a rocker shaft, but if it broke, the valves would not be activated.

Bobcatdan, After much effeort, some cuss words and tons of frustration, I took the fuel injector pump out and had someone look at it. Turned out the fuel plunger that the fuel soloniod controls was stuck and that stopped the fuel of course. I put it back together, and I am now getting fuel to the injectors, but number one fuel pipe is stripped and I cannot tighten it enough to stop it from leaking, and therefore, it bubbles and sucks in air. I do get a bit of black smoke, when I roll it, but I never get any indication it wants to start. I shot some silicone spray into the air tube and it does not do anything different, so it gives a lean towards electrical, but I would love to get that nozzle out and stop this air ingestion so I can move to another stage of investigation. I have never taken the valve cover off. I guess I should peek at it just to remove that unknown. I hope there are no internal damages, this engine does not even have 1200 hours on it. Granted I do not have the history on it that I wish I did, so in reality, the 1200 hours does not tell the entire story of this equipment. Thanks for the reply Ken

 

[Bobcatdan]

Bobcatdan, After much effeort, some cuss words and tons of frustration, I took the fuel injector pump out and had someone look at it. Turned out the fuel plunger that the fuel soloniod controls was stuck and that stopped the fuel of course. I put it back together, and I am now getting fuel to the injectors, but number one fuel pipe is stripped and I cannot tighten it enough to stop it from leaking, and therefore, it bubbles and sucks in air. I do get a bit of black smoke, when I roll it, but I never get any indication it wants to start. I shot some silicone spray into the air tube and it does not do anything different, so it gives a lean towards electrical, but I would love to get that nozzle out and stop this air ingestion so I can move to another stage of investigation. I have never taken the valve cover off. I guess I should peek at it just to remove that unknown. I hope there are no internal damages, this engine does not even have 1200 hours on it. Granted I do not have the history on it that I wish I did, so in reality, the 1200 hours does not tell the entire story of this equipment. Thanks for the reply Ken

Yanmars are pretty tough engines. When I went to school for them for JD, the first thing the instructor asked if anybody every saw one fail, nobody raised their hands.

 

[Tazza]

Yanmars are pretty tough engines. When I went to school for them for JD, the first thing the instructor asked if anybody every saw one fail, nobody raised their hands.

Can you get the engine out so you can try and slide hammer them out?
You may also want to try WD40 or engine starting fluid, not just silicone spray to get it to pop. Just don't use much and keep the glow plugs off.

 

[K9]

Can you get the engine out so you can try and slide hammer them out?
You may also want to try WD40 or engine starting fluid, not just silicone spray to get it to pop. Just don't use much and keep the glow plugs off.

thankfully, I finally got the injector out, and without pulling the engine. I had to change the thread from 12 mm to 7/16 (i/2 inch was too big because the thread was that goofy), then take a piece of 1/2 inch all thread and reduce the end piece to 7/16 thread and used a coupling nut to join it to my slide hammer as you suggested. It took a bunch of strokes, but the injector is in my hand. It was never coming out any other way. Thank you so much for the coaching. Now moving on to the next challenge. Starting it.

 

[Tazza]

thankfully, I finally got the injector out, and without pulling the engine. I had to change the thread from 12 mm to 7/16 (i/2 inch was too big because the thread was that goofy), then take a piece of 1/2 inch all thread and reduce the end piece to 7/16 thread and used a coupling nut to join it to my slide hammer as you suggested. It took a bunch of strokes, but the injector is in my hand. It was never coming out any other way. Thank you so much for the coaching. Now moving on to the next challenge. Starting it.

Glad you managed to get them all out, sure was a fight!
With them out, i think it may be time to do a compression test.

 

[K9]

Glad you managed to get them all out, sure was a fight!
With them out, i think it may be time to do a compression test.

I think you nailed the issue. Out of desperation, I hauled the machine down to the doctors. I think he is a part time politician because he told me how efficient his place is and how good they are. He said he needed a couple of days to do a compression check. More than 2 weeks later, he finally got around to it. All he could get done on Friday was the dry test. Came in around 190-200 psi. Too low to do what I need. Said he would do a wet test first thing today. I have not been called about the results of that. I am hoping against hope it is frozen rings that may fix themselves when he does the wet test. I hate letting other people work on my stuff.... I have not seen the compression value my engine should have, but the mechanic says the absolute minimum for a diesel is 300 #. Is that true??? Its a Yanmar 4TNE84E engine thanks

 

[Tazza]

I think you nailed the issue. Out of desperation, I hauled the machine down to the doctors. I think he is a part time politician because he told me how efficient his place is and how good they are. He said he needed a couple of days to do a compression check. More than 2 weeks later, he finally got around to it. All he could get done on Friday was the dry test. Came in around 190-200 psi. Too low to do what I need. Said he would do a wet test first thing today. I have not been called about the results of that. I am hoping against hope it is frozen rings that may fix themselves when he does the wet test. I hate letting other people work on my stuff.... I have not seen the compression value my engine should have, but the mechanic says the absolute minimum for a diesel is 300 #. Is that true??? Its a Yanmar 4TNE84E engine thanks

300 is the very bottom end of what will start a diesel.
You can start by pulling the head and seeing if the valves are stuck or not, the wet test will tell you if this is the case or not. If the wet test shows better compression, you need to pull the engine.
As you have gone this far, it may be an idea to pull the engine down anyway and see if the rings are indeed stuck. Loosen them up or better yet, replace them. Measure the bores and see how close they are to the wear limit, even if they are slightly over, i'd still give it a go. Scuff up the bores to give it a cross hatch and put the pistons in with new rings.