Two weeks ago unit would not re-start after shutting down to fuel. Error code showed 03-09 and 03 14.....low voltage.. battery was only two months old. Tried jumping it and it just shut down after hitting start button. Took starter to a shop and had it rebuilt and took battery back to Rural King where they tested it and said it was bad and replaced it under warranty. Yesterday it started right up and I used it for eight (8} hours straight and shut it off to fuel. Wouldn't start back up but error code showed ....none.....Checked battery with multi-meter and it showed 11.68 volts. Reached in and checked belt on alternator and it was tight. After jumping it, it re-started. Does this mean the alternator is bad and/or what else would cause the problem? If it is the alternator, why no error code? All grounds are clean and tight. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
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reaperman
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When you say it wouldnt start back up with the replacement battery, did it turn over? Did you try to charge the battery with a charger overnight? Because 11.68 volts on a battery is one that appears not to accept a charge. Your issue started two weeks ago, its possible the alternator is bad, id have it tested. A bad alternator can cause issues with a good battery. We also should question whether your old battery was indeed bad causing the issue to start with. If so, its possible the replacement battery was defective like the first one was. I've learned to buy batteries made for heavy equipment. Most people dont realize they are basically priced the same as a regular car battery. Caterpillar and Bobcat both sell good batteries. My last replacement bobcat battery was $99 from a dealer.
Hi, I push the yellow enter button, then the green starter button, the fuel solenoid clicked and that was all. Error code showed none. Unit was sitting in a brushy briar patch in the middle of a cow pasture where I am working so all I could do was jump it with my truck. Both of these batteries are heavy duty batteries, one had a very few hours on it and the second one had eight hours on it. Belt is tight on the alternator. If alternator is bad why no air code for alternator? Why no low voltage error code (03-09...03-14)? Just had the starter rebuild and I tested it before installing it. Starter and starter solenoid worked fine. The work I do is digging out tree stumps and brush. I have been doing this kind of work for several years and never had a battery problem/starting problems before. The work I do is very jarring at times ..... I wonder about possible damage to internal battery structure but if that is the case wide so much all at once? Does anyone have any answers to any of these questions? I know this is a well read forum by people with a lot more experience and knowledge than I have. Any and all questions are appreciated. Thank you
What happens if you run a wire from the +ve terminal on the battery to the small pin on the starter. This is a way to jump the starter and by-pass the key/computer.
If it spins, your battery and wiring is good, if not, your have a bad battery or battery cable.
Thanks Tazza: I will try that tomorrow. If it proves to be a bad battery, are the chances I got two bad batteries in a row more likely than something with the unit or my work making them go bad? What about the lack of error codes?
shankatank58
Active member
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- Dec 14, 2013
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Do you have another battery you could swap in just to try.
Had a similar experience with RK batteries. Long story short; took the 4th one (2 weeks old) to TSC as a $10 core; problem solved.
Still shop there, but won't buy their batteries.
It depends on the battery shop i guess, the guys i get mine from, usually load test the new battery before installing it. That way they know for sure it's good.
I hope it is as simple as a bad battery, good 'ol made in China quality.
Hi guys: I've got my unit home in the polebarn where I can check it out and service it. Tazza....I checked the voltage on the battery with my multi-meter and it read 11.68 V. I then hooked up a short jumper wire from positive terminal on battery to ignition/key post on starter and it did crank. I then started unit and left run for 10 minutes to heat up engine to change oil. After shutting unit off checked battery once again and it read 12.11 Volts....I changed filters, engine oil then noticed I had anti-freeze dripping down onto air cleaner housing and onto battery. Removed radiator cap, after it cooled down, stuck my finger in as far as it would go and could not reach coolant. The coolant in the reservoir was 4" up from bottom. If radiator gets low is it not supposed to suck up coolant from the reservoir? Coolant is apparently leaking from somewhere at or around radiator. What is the procedure for being able to see where it is leaking since it is covered by the hydraulic cooler and if need be how do I go about removing radiator for repair? Before I left barn last night I hooked battery to a trickle/maintainer charger. Check in with you fellas later. Thanks again.
As it started with jumping the starter, the battery is good.
As for the leaking radiator, i can't remember exactly how they come out, the cooler will have soft hoses to allow it to twist, i had in my head that you could twist it and lift the radiator out after removing the mounting bolts.
It's not as simple as a bad radiator hose or bad hose clamp? not that it's easy to see up there.
Yesterday unhooked the trickle charger......topped off antifreeze...started unit!!!!!....ran for 20 minutes......trying to see where leak is.....no luck yet....shut unit off...battery voltage reads 12.7.....think I will replace thermostat and antifreeze....top radiator hose feels too soft ...will replace it.....will update later. HAPPY THANKSGIVING TO ALL.
OK me again. Got the antifreeze changed. Took off the reservoir and it was totally black on .....inside!!!.....even had a dead wasp inside. I believe it is because of black exhaust leak from seam around end of muffler somehow being drawn inside. Cleaned it out with ..shampoo.. and brushes. After sitting idle for two days with ground cable unhooked it still reads 12.48. Started up unit and let run for 15 minutes and found no leaks....I don't know if I need to have it running longer than that to build up pressure????? Also on alternator....how do I get to the posts to check for output and which of the four or so posts do I touch? Do I have to start it up and then raise the cab and crawl under there to check it? Thanks to all.
Forgot to ask a question about heating cab...I bought a CHEAP 12v plug into cigarette lighter heater from Harbor freight. Then....read reviews ...everything negative nothing positive so I haven't even attempted to hook it up. Was thinking about trying to rig up a four inch diameter tube from engine compartment that would interlock with same size tube exiting hole cut into rear of cab. That tube would be coupled to a flat 8" - 10" wide extension that would exit under the front of the seat. Then...in engine compartment....put a little four inch desk fan converted to 12v and switched and fused, blowing into tube. FEASABLE ???? or PIPE DREAM????? Any other ideas??? I know there is the regular OEM heater route but that is pricey. Thanks.
That battery voltage doesn't sound wrong to me, when charging it should go up to about 14.4v
Check voltage at the battery before starting then when it's running, check it again, it should have gone back up and continue to do so while the alternator charges it.
As for the heater, plug in heaters don't have the BTU rating that one that uses coolant from your engine would. You genereally tap into the engines by-pass hoses and run two hoes into the cab to a heater core with a fan. You have all that heat from the engine going to waste, may as well use some to keep toasty warm.
Thanks Tazza. I guess I won't try for a patent on my heater scheme. I'll see if I can locate a inexpensive heater core/fan.....later
Not long ago, someone posted about a company that had heaters pretty cheap. A quick google search found a few, no idea on prices, but it is the sort of thing you want.
http://aquahot.com/Products/Cab-Heaters-Auxiliary-Heaters.aspx
Hi Tazza: Saw a video on U-tube of a guy from Canada that bought a small heater core from NAPA for $40, some heater hose, and used a small 12v fan to build a wood box to contain everything. He said it worked great. He hooked the hoses up to connections at thermostat/water pump. Soon as I build an enclosure for the cab (I work in very thick brush/hawthorn trees/grape vines/multi-flora rose bush) so I have to worry about branches hitting the unit from every direction, that's why I don't have any lights front/rear....I quit replacing them. ......later.....
Sounds like a good plan. You can get loads of heat out of heater that uses coolant.
Glad you are nice and safe in the cab if thebrush is bad enough that you have no lights left in place, better that they get beat up than you do. The machine doesn't bleed
Hi guys....trying this again...typed this once and hit post but it disappeared ...must have hit a wrong key. I need to find a 12v-Dc fan for a cab heater I am building. Axial? With/without bearings? Looked online at different websites to the best of my uneducated ability. Only thing I could see were fans made in China - Taiwan. Online reviews were mostly very negative. I need one about 6"x6"x2" - (150mmx150mmx25-35mm) Does the fan need to be constructed of metal? If plastic, how far from heater core does the fan need to be? (Putting in wood constructed box) Also just got a rear window seal and cord. Does the cord go on the inside of the window? Do I put the cord in the seal before installing the seal in the opening? I put a nylon string in the soaped groove for the glass window before installing? Headlights (triangular) I put the rubber seal in the opening, put the bulb/socket in the lens, wiped dish soap around seal, pushed on lens trying to get the clips to catch in grooves. didn't catch and hold. Doing something wrong? As always I appreciate any help/guidance I can get.Sounds like a good plan. You can get loads of heat out of heater that uses coolant.
Glad you are nice and safe in the cab if thebrush is bad enough that you have no lights left in place, better that they get beat up than you do. The machine doesn't bleed
For the fan, i see no reason why eithe steel or plastic couldn't be used. It's not going to be that hot, it shouldn't melt. Could you get a blower unit from a car and use the fan and speen controller resistor pack?
Even a thermo fan could work.
