On my old loader, my tire chains worked real well (except that I kept breaking rear ones; see other thread), just like they do on a truck. However, my new 332 tires have gobs of tread, and the tire chain cross links always end up between the lugs, not protruding much and being of limited use. A customer noticed that and said he saw a guy's rig that solved that problem. He had put a third rail down the middle of the tires, and hooked his cross links to it. That kept the cross links up out of the lugs and he claimed it improved traction immensely. Other than getting a worn out set of tires on rims and using them exclusively w/ chains (trust me; I've actually thought of doing this), does anyone have a different solution to this? For clarity, I think his third rail was actually short pieces BETWEEN the cross links and parallel to the other two rails, and not one whole rail going completely around the tire UNDER the cross links. I'd love to hear how anyone else deals w/ this; it's a new one on me.
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skidsteer.ca
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I'm sure that would help, but not as much as a tire with less tread that supported the chain evenly across the tire. I have never run into that but some tire have 1 to 1.3" inches or tread and I can see how it could be a problem.
For larger machines there are tire chains with many different patterns too, we prefer the double diamond on our skidders, but I'm not sure if those are available in skidsteer sizes. Also ice chains typically have spikes sticking up on top of the standard link and would have a taller profile.
Ken
For larger machines there are tire chains with many different patterns too, we prefer the double diamond on our skidders, but I'm not sure if those are available in skidsteer sizes. Also ice chains typically have spikes sticking up on top of the standard link and would have a taller profile.
Ken
K: I'll check into double diamonds, and/or those w/ spikes, once I solve the breaking problem. I can't believe how many chains I have broken. Am stumped. Agreed on tires w/ less lug on them. Small PITA to be changing tires/wheels (not to mention the expense) but if it is only once per year, then what the hey?
I found what I think Ken was referring to. These look like what I need. I've seen at least another company w/ similar ones. See the TruGrip chains here.
http://www.wallingfords.com/icc/equipment_chains.html
link fixed
skidsteer.ca
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A studded chain is like this
http://www.wallingfords.com/babac/studs_pop.html
Here is an example of diamond pattern chains
http://www.wallingfords.com/babac/babac_stud_models.html
Here is a "ice" chain
http://www.wallingfords.com/aquiline/talon_chains.html
These would work good if you can get in your size
http://www.wallingfords.com/aquiline/grader-h_chains.html
http://www.wallingfords.com/aquiline/grader-h_chains.html
Ken: Thanks. Ironically, I found Wallings today and called them. The gent there recommended the Aqualine Claws, and (I believe) he agreed w/ another individual who said the diamond and H patterns tend to break more on skid steers because of the twisting stresses when one does a sudden 360. Those Claws have 3/8" cross links, and are "top of the line" but I could not get a chain grade from him. I would hope they are some of the best, as the price would be around $825/pr, maybe a tad more, by the time they got shipped up here. Man, those Babacs look incredible, but I think the smallest diameter they come in is 1/2 or 9/16" cross links. I am sure they would hold up on my loader, but I am not sure I want to buy a pair; they HAVE to be real pricey. I can get a pair in town that have 3/8" cross links and are two-link ladder style for $560, but again no one can give me chain quality on them. I'll just have to try a set, and I am toying w/ the idea of tying two cross links together w/ one gizmo in the center, so the cross links don't fall into my lugs. Maybe I'll try that on one side and see how it goes; maybe the two-link style will have enough chain around to avoid the problem. Sometimes you just have to look-see and experiment....
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John
They may be right about the diamonds, we run them on our logging skidders, but more to protect the tires from rock abraizson , they cover the tire better then the classic logging "bearpaw" chain. And we run 3/4 to 1" chain for more wear/life.
As for skids I have never bought a set, I had one old twisted link grader chain that I cut in two to fit my 10/16.5 and it work well, but they don't have your monsterous tread profile.
I don't see any reason why you can't do what your thinking either, just buy some 3/8 shackles and fasten 2 cross chains together like you said. You will have to weld the shackles to keep from loosing them, but you could just stick them in for a test.
The ice chains I thought might be good because they are taller profile. Their expensive but the studs are put on top of the wear points, so the chains should last along time. Though if you never get off the ice and snow wearing them out may not be a concern to you. The skidder chains we buy are 3500 a set, but thats for a 6' tall tire (30.5 by 32)
Ken
I'm going to try a set of 2-link chains from Tirechains.com. The gent there said he'd been asked many questions over 20 yrs, but never "what grade is the chain", so all he could tell me is that his are Rockwell 56 hardened. He also thought that maybe my breakage was because the chains are TOO hard and brittle. Brittle they are; I tried to spread one cross link w/ a chisel/hammer, and it snapped without budging one iota; probably normal for tire chains. So, now for the $450 experiment.... I'm just glad I am not paying $3500 a set.
PS: Tirechains.com said that their duo chains are NOT for hard surface use, too. He said to stick w/ the ladder style for what I am doing (hard pack over frozen gravel, for now).
Experiment #1 shall commence. I was able to buy some grade 70, 3/8" chain and end links for $190. That is enough to make two tire chains into 2-link now, instead of the 4-link they were, plus about 7' of chain and four hooks left over. The 3/8" chain mic'd out at .400 to .405, while the original cross links (probably grade 30, according to two chain people) mic'd out at .365. It will be interesting to see how this hodge-podge fits the tires, how it rides, and how it performs. If all goes well, and the side rails do not get torn off, I may just get more grade 70 and move the grade 30 all to the front chains. If I break the grade 70 links, I think I'll just quit and give my loader away. If I can manage a few more hours of hard pack work, I'll post what gave, or didn't.
Final installment here. I have several hours on the chains now, both on frozen gravel doing hard pack removal and on semi-frozen dirt, and no breakage yet. Too, I have tightened the chains w/ two, 3/8 turn buckles, and they are as tight as tight can be. (To keep the turn buckles from unwinding, I clipped a snap link through each one. Seems to work well; can adjust tension now and then as the chains settle in.) The chains do ride a bit rough, as the 3/8 cargo chain is a lot bigger than the flat-link 3/8 original cross links. However, I am not running at Indy with this set up, so what the hey. As long as they don't break, I can tolerate jiggling the hell out of my body while in transit. When these chains wear out, I will probably buy commercial 2-link HD chains and put them on nearly bald tires, again using turn buckles to tighten them up. For now, problem solved. later. j
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John
Glad to here its holding together now. As for another way to get the chains tight I often deflate the tire to install them. This may not be practical for you, I put mine on for the winter season and leave them there.
Ken