My LX565 has issues.... I went to start it after it was unused for several months. The gauges lit up, the pre-heat counted down, and then I turned the key. Click--Dead Battery. So I charged it for a few hours. Went to start it again and.... The gauges flashed for a split second and went dark. I proceeded to start it and it fired right up. When I let go of the key and it went to the on position it died and the starter was still winding nonstop. I removed the key and climbed out and it continued to wind until the battery died. I charged the battery again and the same thing. If I hold the key in the start position is runs fine. when I release the key it dies and the starter continues to wind. Even when the key is out. I replaced the keyed ignition switch. No difference. I replaced the accessory relay. No difference. So before I mess with the solenoid or any other relays I figured I would ask you good people. Any direction? Thanks
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I suspected that so I pulled the starter. I checked it with jumper cables. I energized the solenoid and the bendix engaged. Then I jumped the solenoid contact over to the large terminal on the starter and the gear spun. I assume that is proper function? At this point I feel that the start interlock relay is bad. Is there a way to test it? If I swap it with the glo-plug relay will I do any further damage? ThanksI think your starter solenoid has welded the points shut , you will have to have it rebuilt. Usual cause is low voltage I was told by starter rebuilder when this happened to me.
The starter interlock relay is the upper one and the start and preheat are the two lower ones. not sure if the preheat and interlock can be swapped. To avoid burning up the starter in the future I put a disconnect from harbor freight in the battery cable, cost about 10 bucks.I suspected that so I pulled the starter. I checked it with jumper cables. I energized the solenoid and the bendix engaged. Then I jumped the solenoid contact over to the large terminal on the starter and the gear spun. I assume that is proper function? At this point I feel that the start interlock relay is bad. Is there a way to test it? If I swap it with the glo-plug relay will I do any further damage? Thanks
So here's an update....After checking the starter for proper function (I assume) I put it back on and I put on a new start relay. Now I have no dash panel lights at all. It will still only start and run with the key held in the start position. However, now when I let go and the key is in the run position , the starter DOES NOT continue to wind as before. So that part is good I reckon. Any other relays that could be bad? ThanksThe starter interlock relay is the upper one and the start and preheat are the two lower ones. not sure if the preheat and interlock can be swapped. To avoid burning up the starter in the future I put a disconnect from harbor freight in the battery cable, cost about 10 bucks.
I have also replaced the start interlock relay and still no dash lights. I just posted the following on a different thread but It may do some good here as well. Mike 10 I hope you read this. I have a LX565 with the gold trim gauge bezel. My EIC doesn't light up at all... just a constant beep. Going by your directions in a previous post, I checked the pins with the meter. First off, I discovered that the seat and seat belt switch harness had a broken pin where it plugs together behind the seat. I clipped off the connector and stripped back all 4 wires. The larger green wire has 12.6v and the rest have zero. I believe this is proper function. I twisted all 4 wires together which I assume simulates sitting in the seat with the seat belt on. Correct? So now going to the 14 pin harness. With the key out and in any position, #14 r/ltgn reads just 2.4v with the harness unplugged and only 0.6 with it plugged in to the board. the #4 tan/wh reads zero volts. does this mean a break in the wire somewhere? The #11 lgrn reads 12.6v. With the key "on" I have 12.6v at pin #13 orange. When I turn the key to "start" #12 white has voltage. With or with out the harness plugged in to the board I have 12.6v at pin 5 and zero at pin 3. So should I have 12v at pin 14? How do I trace the #14 and #4 wires? Do you think the low pin 14 voltage is keeping the EIC from working?So here's an update....After checking the starter for proper function (I assume) I put it back on and I put on a new start relay. Now I have no dash panel lights at all. It will still only start and run with the key held in the start position. However, now when I let go and the key is in the run position , the starter DOES NOT continue to wind as before. So that part is good I reckon. Any other relays that could be bad? Thanks
You should have battery voltage at the r/ltgn, #14 pin at all times. The power originates at the engine fuse block, the one closest to the engine, 5A fuse. This fuse also powers the seat circuit. Since you have power behind the seat the fuse is good, but it does not mean the wires behind the fues block are still connected together. You might loosen the fuse block and take a look at the wired behind the block to see if one of the wires for the 5A fuse is corroded off. If the wiring is good then it is going to be hunt for the broken wire.........There are six wires at the seat connector. Connecting them will light up the panel, if everything else is right, but will not allow the engine to crank. The system needs to see things done in the correct order for the system to allow the engine to crank.I have also replaced the start interlock relay and still no dash lights. I just posted the following on a different thread but It may do some good here as well. Mike 10 I hope you read this. I have a LX565 with the gold trim gauge bezel. My EIC doesn't light up at all... just a constant beep. Going by your directions in a previous post, I checked the pins with the meter. First off, I discovered that the seat and seat belt switch harness had a broken pin where it plugs together behind the seat. I clipped off the connector and stripped back all 4 wires. The larger green wire has 12.6v and the rest have zero. I believe this is proper function. I twisted all 4 wires together which I assume simulates sitting in the seat with the seat belt on. Correct? So now going to the 14 pin harness. With the key out and in any position, #14 r/ltgn reads just 2.4v with the harness unplugged and only 0.6 with it plugged in to the board. the #4 tan/wh reads zero volts. does this mean a break in the wire somewhere? The #11 lgrn reads 12.6v. With the key "on" I have 12.6v at pin #13 orange. When I turn the key to "start" #12 white has voltage. With or with out the harness plugged in to the board I have 12.6v at pin 5 and zero at pin 3. So should I have 12v at pin 14? How do I trace the #14 and #4 wires? Do you think the low pin 14 voltage is keeping the EIC from working?
I do have power at all times at pin 14, but only 2.5v. I' thinking it should be 12v, correct? I'll check the wires at the fuse block. My seat connector only has 4 wires. When I first got the machine many years ago, the terminals on the seat switches broke so I wired them to a rocker switch and left the seat belt plugged in under me. I realize that the risk, but with it set up that way it always started just fine until this issue that this thread is about. I would however have to release and reconnect the seat belt to unlock the peddles. So I'm thinking with all 4 wires of the seat connector twisted together it should still start and run. Currently and even before I twisted the 4 wires together, it will start and run as long as I held the key at the "start" position, but die as soon as I let It spring back to the "run" position. Maybe because the EIC is not working correctly? Can I tap any constant 12v wire in to the #14 pin to provide power? And can I run a new wire from the seat switch wire at the seat connector (which wire is it?) to the #4 pin?You should have battery voltage at the r/ltgn, #14 pin at all times. The power originates at the engine fuse block, the one closest to the engine, 5A fuse. This fuse also powers the seat circuit. Since you have power behind the seat the fuse is good, but it does not mean the wires behind the fues block are still connected together. You might loosen the fuse block and take a look at the wired behind the block to see if one of the wires for the 5A fuse is corroded off. If the wiring is good then it is going to be hunt for the broken wire.........There are six wires at the seat connector. Connecting them will light up the panel, if everything else is right, but will not allow the engine to crank. The system needs to see things done in the correct order for the system to allow the engine to crank.
The reason you can measure some voltage at pin 14 is because the wire is still making a slight connection at the break, probably through the corrosion. Once a load is applied, when plugging the connector back into the panel, the connection fails farther and you loose voltage. There should be 12v or battery voltage at pin 14 at all times........I guess I am not sure what four wires you are talking about. I was thinking about the seat connector behind the seat. If you are only connecting the wires at the seat switches, then that part of the circuit will be complete and if everything else is working the enignie will crank, provided you relatch the seat belt......If you are wiring the seat belt in with the seat switches the engine will not crank even if everthing else is working......When cranking the engine, power is sent directly to the fuel solenoid, from the key switch,through one circuit, but once the key is released power is sent to the fuel solenoid through a different circuit coming from the instrument panel to the start interlock relay and then to the fuel solenoid......Without battery voltage at pin 14 the engine will not stay running. You can run a separate wire but it needs to be protected by a 5A fuse. Better to find the cause and repair it. WEAR YOUR SEAT BELT......Just installed a new seat belt in a customers unit because he hit the door when the bucket caught something and stopped the loader. He was lucky and only broke his nose. Without the door he would have been thrown out of the loader.I do have power at all times at pin 14, but only 2.5v. I' thinking it should be 12v, correct? I'll check the wires at the fuse block. My seat connector only has 4 wires. When I first got the machine many years ago, the terminals on the seat switches broke so I wired them to a rocker switch and left the seat belt plugged in under me. I realize that the risk, but with it set up that way it always started just fine until this issue that this thread is about. I would however have to release and reconnect the seat belt to unlock the peddles. So I'm thinking with all 4 wires of the seat connector twisted together it should still start and run. Currently and even before I twisted the 4 wires together, it will start and run as long as I held the key at the "start" position, but die as soon as I let It spring back to the "run" position. Maybe because the EIC is not working correctly? Can I tap any constant 12v wire in to the #14 pin to provide power? And can I run a new wire from the seat switch wire at the seat connector (which wire is it?) to the #4 pin?
I ran a new wire from the 5A fuse to pin #14 and the EIC lit up and did the preheat. so some success there, thanks. Now I need to figure out how the seat harness wires up. As I said before the main connectors for the seat harness are broken. The harness connector on the main harness side has just 4 wires. a green/red that has 12v power, a green, a brown and a white. The connector on the seat harness side of it has 3 wires. A green/red, brown and a green. Can you tell me what connects to what? I tried what seemed logical but not sure about the white wire. I tried a few different combinations but it just made the EIC act funny.The reason you can measure some voltage at pin 14 is because the wire is still making a slight connection at the break, probably through the corrosion. Once a load is applied, when plugging the connector back into the panel, the connection fails farther and you loose voltage. There should be 12v or battery voltage at pin 14 at all times........I guess I am not sure what four wires you are talking about. I was thinking about the seat connector behind the seat. If you are only connecting the wires at the seat switches, then that part of the circuit will be complete and if everything else is working the enignie will crank, provided you relatch the seat belt......If you are wiring the seat belt in with the seat switches the engine will not crank even if everthing else is working......When cranking the engine, power is sent directly to the fuel solenoid, from the key switch,through one circuit, but once the key is released power is sent to the fuel solenoid through a different circuit coming from the instrument panel to the start interlock relay and then to the fuel solenoid......Without battery voltage at pin 14 the engine will not stay running. You can run a separate wire but it needs to be protected by a 5A fuse. Better to find the cause and repair it. WEAR YOUR SEAT BELT......Just installed a new seat belt in a customers unit because he hit the door when the bucket caught something and stopped the loader. He was lucky and only broke his nose. Without the door he would have been thrown out of the loader.
The ltgn/r wire is the power to the seat switch. At the two terminal seat switch connector, one terminal is the ltgn/r and the other terminal has two tan wires. When the seat switch is activated power is sent from the ltgn/r wire to both tan wires. One of the tan wires sends power back to the instrument panel and the other tan wire sends power to the seat belt connector. When the seat belt is fastened then power is sent from the tan wire to the ltgn wire and the power goes to both the instrument panel and the start interlock relay. From here you will need to figure out what you need to do, since my gong farther with the explanation will put you and any other individual at risk of serious injury or death. My suggestion is to buy a new seat harness. They are not that expensive and will save you a lot of potential heart ache.I ran a new wire from the 5A fuse to pin #14 and the EIC lit up and did the preheat. so some success there, thanks. Now I need to figure out how the seat harness wires up. As I said before the main connectors for the seat harness are broken. The harness connector on the main harness side has just 4 wires. a green/red that has 12v power, a green, a brown and a white. The connector on the seat harness side of it has 3 wires. A green/red, brown and a green. Can you tell me what connects to what? I tried what seemed logical but not sure about the white wire. I tried a few different combinations but it just made the EIC act funny.
Hey thanks, and I get the safety point. I have a new seat harness that I am trying to use. I cut the connector plug off that it plugs in to because it was broken. So now I will cut off the connector from the new seat harness and splice them together. At that connection I believe that it is ltgn/r to ltgn/r, tan to tan and ltgn to ltgn. Does the white wire connect in with the ltgrn??The ltgn/r wire is the power to the seat switch. At the two terminal seat switch connector, one terminal is the ltgn/r and the other terminal has two tan wires. When the seat switch is activated power is sent from the ltgn/r wire to both tan wires. One of the tan wires sends power back to the instrument panel and the other tan wire sends power to the seat belt connector. When the seat belt is fastened then power is sent from the tan wire to the ltgn wire and the power goes to both the instrument panel and the start interlock relay. From here you will need to figure out what you need to do, since my gong farther with the explanation will put you and any other individual at risk of serious injury or death. My suggestion is to buy a new seat harness. They are not that expensive and will save you a lot of potential heart ache.
The w/o wire does connect with the ltgn wire. The white wire goes to the start interlock relayHey thanks, and I get the safety point. I have a new seat harness that I am trying to use. I cut the connector plug off that it plugs in to because it was broken. So now I will cut off the connector from the new seat harness and splice them together. At that connection I believe that it is ltgn/r to ltgn/r, tan to tan and ltgn to ltgn. Does the white wire connect in with the ltgrn??
