sl 3825 speeds up

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earmuffs

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my 3825 runs and starts good but after a few minutes of running the rpms climb almost to the point of racing.with a load on it doesnt seem as bad but stop working it and up she goes. so i bring the throttle back down. possibly leaking some fuel under the plate where the fuel lines are attached. it has a v1302? kubota.
 

Tazza

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its a v1305e engine. probably the governor. anybody know about these?
It shouldn't race for no reason. It could be the govenor spring, you can remove the housing that the throttle arm comes out of, there should be i think two springs, one inside the other. Ensure they are both still connected.
It is possible you have a problem with the metal balls it uses for the govenor too. But that involves removing the timing cover, leave that one till last.
 
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earmuffs

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It shouldn't race for no reason. It could be the govenor spring, you can remove the housing that the throttle arm comes out of, there should be i think two springs, one inside the other. Ensure they are both still connected.
It is possible you have a problem with the metal balls it uses for the govenor too. But that involves removing the timing cover, leave that one till last.
i took the throttle arm cover off, looks to be 1 spring sort of heavy but intact.
 

Tazza

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i took the throttle arm cover off, looks to be 1 spring sort of heavy but intact.
Really not sure what else it could be. The govenor really can't be serviced, i guess it could be the fuel rack sticking on the pump, but its covered in engine oil, so shouldn't stick.
 
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earmuffs

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Really not sure what else it could be. The govenor really can't be serviced, i guess it could be the fuel rack sticking on the pump, but its covered in engine oil, so shouldn't stick.
when it starts to speed up i pull the throttle back, it will slow down but gradually.
 

Tazza

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when it starts to speed up i pull the throttle back, it will slow down but gradually.
Its as if the rack on the injector pump is sticking. There is a spring that tries to push it back to off.... The only thing i can think is to pull the injector pump out and ensure the rack does slide easily. As it moves from side to side it alters the fuel delivery to the injectors. With the pump out, you can feel of the arms from the govenor are tight or sticky too.
 
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earmuffs

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Its as if the rack on the injector pump is sticking. There is a spring that tries to push it back to off.... The only thing i can think is to pull the injector pump out and ensure the rack does slide easily. As it moves from side to side it alters the fuel delivery to the injectors. With the pump out, you can feel of the arms from the govenor are tight or sticky too.
how does it come out?do i take the lines off and linkage cover then intake and remove it upwards?
 

Tazza

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how does it come out?do i take the lines off and linkage cover then intake and remove it upwards?
Remove the 4 injector lines and the cover for the stop lever. It then simply slides up. The shims will have sealant on them to prevent engine oil leaking out so it may take a tap or two to get it free. There is a tab on the rack that you will have to ensure comes up and out of the block through the notch, you'll seee it when you have the injector pump free.
When re-installing it, ensure the tab on the rack sits in the notch of the arm, again you'll see what i mean. This is what moves the rack back and forth, if its not engaged the engine can run away from you and you won't be able to stop it till it runs out of fuel. There will be a small spring on the left which is attached to the block, be careful not to sit the pump on it and knock it off. Put the pump in tilting forward then tilt back to press against it.
Its been a year or two since i had to work on one of these, so i may have missed something, i'm going by memory.
Let me know if i missed anything,
 
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earmuffs

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Remove the 4 injector lines and the cover for the stop lever. It then simply slides up. The shims will have sealant on them to prevent engine oil leaking out so it may take a tap or two to get it free. There is a tab on the rack that you will have to ensure comes up and out of the block through the notch, you'll seee it when you have the injector pump free.
When re-installing it, ensure the tab on the rack sits in the notch of the arm, again you'll see what i mean. This is what moves the rack back and forth, if its not engaged the engine can run away from you and you won't be able to stop it till it runs out of fuel. There will be a small spring on the left which is attached to the block, be careful not to sit the pump on it and knock it off. Put the pump in tilting forward then tilt back to press against it.
Its been a year or two since i had to work on one of these, so i may have missed something, i'm going by memory.
Let me know if i missed anything,
had to take of the air intake, no big deal. the rack slider moves easy.everything was oiled well,is the piece that the small spring is hooked to supposed to move? i mean it looks like there are two screws holding it on. i dont know , im posting a pic possibly. i have a friend who has a used equipment dealership, he sells me stuff reasonable, most need some work, i tinker with them fix what i can then sell em.i picked up a 2004 gehl 4640 with the deutz 3 cyl this morning for 3600, but it has a miss. starts ok and doesnt smoke, he figured a bad pushrod , we ll see. i had 5 machines this year , could get more but im a stay at home dad with a 2 year old. any way thank you so much for your help.
 
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earmuffs

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had to take of the air intake, no big deal. the rack slider moves easy.everything was oiled well,is the piece that the small spring is hooked to supposed to move? i mean it looks like there are two screws holding it on. i dont know , im posting a pic possibly. i have a friend who has a used equipment dealership, he sells me stuff reasonable, most need some work, i tinker with them fix what i can then sell em.i picked up a 2004 gehl 4640 with the deutz 3 cyl this morning for 3600, but it has a miss. starts ok and doesnt smoke, he figured a bad pushrod , we ll see. i had 5 machines this year , could get more but im a stay at home dad with a 2 year old. any way thank you so much for your help.
pic is posted under gehl 3825. i think that part is supposed to slide, but something seems wrong with the linkage arm it pulls a heavy spring that doesnt seem to hit the part with the groove, are there more than 2 springs in there?
 

Tazza

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pic is posted under gehl 3825. i think that part is supposed to slide, but something seems wrong with the linkage arm it pulls a heavy spring that doesnt seem to hit the part with the groove, are there more than 2 springs in there?
Ok, that looks slightly different to the ones i have fiddled with. The big spring on the V1702 engines i have done have two springs, Now i can see the injector cam shaft, but i'm not sure what the other one is there..... I'm wondering if it has something to do with the govenor?
I'm really lost, its the same engine, but different... I figured the V1302 would be pretty close, it seems not.
I do have a PDF at home that may cover this engine, i'll try and remember to look when i get home.
 
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earmuffs

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Ok, that looks slightly different to the ones i have fiddled with. The big spring on the V1702 engines i have done have two springs, Now i can see the injector cam shaft, but i'm not sure what the other one is there..... I'm wondering if it has something to do with the govenor?
I'm really lost, its the same engine, but different... I figured the V1302 would be pretty close, it seems not.
I do have a PDF at home that may cover this engine, i'll try and remember to look when i get home.
looks to be part of the governor, slides on that shaft against two rollers at the bottom of the lever that works the rail slider.
 

Tazza

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looks to be part of the governor, slides on that shaft against two rollers at the bottom of the lever that works the rail slider.
Sorry, my manual doesn't have that engine....
I think you're rite, it looks like its part of the govenor setup. Something has to be binding up...
 
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earmuffs

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i found this site it shows parts very well. im going out to take another look. the pic of governor arm shows the two arms conected thats not how mine is. http://www.buckeyepowersales.com/Mobile_Documentation/tp5596.pdf
the governor arm was most likely right i guess its time to remove the timing cover. to fully get at the governor assembly.
 
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