Since my last post, the snow has melted and I was able to hire a front end loader to push my machine inside the shop. I had hoped by thawing it out for several days that it would have been something frozen up. Not so, same problem. I took off the drive belt cover and the belt looks good, it's turning the Pulley. I have now noticed the only light on my BICS control that's working is the PowerLite. Also my traction lock solenoid works and lights up. I checked my fuses, they're all good. It seems strange that my seat sensor, my lift bar Sensor and my auxiliary hydraulics lights would all go out at the same time. I'm thinking I may have a faulty Bics controller. Is it possible to bypass all of that stuff and jumper wire the solenoid that is locking up the hydraulics to see if the machine will operate at all? If so, which solenoid would it be? Does anybody rent that MEL 1428 sensor tester? Is it possible to test the seat bar switch and the lift bar switch without the sensor tester? I'm inclined to believe the switches are not the problem because they all went out at the same time. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thank you
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OldMachinist
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Does sound like it's putting any load on the engine when you move the steering levers?
If not put a pressure gauge at the auxiliary couplings to see how much hydraulic pressure you have.
The problem with the BICS sounds like a corroded connection or bad ground to the cab.
If not put a pressure gauge at the auxiliary couplings to see how much hydraulic pressure you have.
The problem with the BICS sounds like a corroded connection or bad ground to the cab.
Thanks for responding, There is no change in the engine RPM's when I try to move the levers forward or backward or lift the arms or curl the bucket. It's as if the hydraulics are totally dead.
So, you have no drive power or lift/tilt rite?
You said the drive belt is tight and turns the pump, the only thing left are the pump(s) them selves.
it would help if I knew what machine you have , I could tell you how to by pass what it would take to make it operate ----------- just because the belt looks good and the pulley is turning doesn't mean it is producing enough flow and pressure to make it function -----------newer drive belt idlers have an indicator which lets you know if it is properly adjusted , older ones didn't , the proper way to adjust an older idler was with a special bar and fish scale , but it really isn't needed ------------ just yesterday I seen a T250 that the pulley on the end of the tranny pump sheered and was spinning but not turning the pump
Thanks. I have a 1996 863 Bobcat. The manual says there is no adjustment for the Idler pulley that tensions the Drive belt. It is spring-loaded and you just slide this adjustment bar up against it to keep it from backing off . I never thought about the pulley possibly being sheared and not turning the shaft. I bought a new belt and was going to install it but I thought the old belt looked alright. I'll take the old belt off and see if the pulley free spins. I also thought I might crack the hose that comes off of the pump and see if there's any hydraulic fluid coming out of there when I start the engine. If I get hydraulic fluid coming out of the pump but not going through the valve body is there a solenoid that is activated by the seat that may be closed? I have no lights for my seat control or lift arm control lighted up. I get the error code on my display of HP1, which I looked up and means no hydraulic pressure engine shutdown, and that is what happens after 30 seconds, the engine shuts down.
HP-1 is classic no pressure shut down ,you have no pressure , the belt could be the problem , if not you have problems , in the old days you used a bar and a fish scale , you marked the bell housing for 1 inch of travel and pulled 15 lbs on the bar , newer idler have a pointer that points to 3 o'clock when properly adjusted -------a good test for belt adjustment isto put the bucket against something that ain't going to move and push against it , if you can spin the tires or tracks without belt squeal then the belt adjustment is ok
Thanks. From what my manual says, as I understand it, there are no pry bars or preloading involved in adjusting my drive belt. The spring-loaded idler automatically adjusts the tension. You then loosen the two bolts and slide stop bracket up against the Idler arm and tighten the bolts. Either a photo or a link to photo bucket is attached with a picture of my service manual,I hope.
I now see you did mention 863 on your later post , I was thinking different , a new belt is all you could do , I have seen that bolt number 2 sheer off before --------- I think I would do a pressure test on the pump , you could take the belt off and see if you could spin the pulley of the pump by hand , also open and inspect your case drain and hydraulic filters ----------
Thank you, I'll start working through the list
