Newbie idiot question. play in left stick 751F

[sawdust]

I just recieved delivery of my 751F....can't find any fault other than some play in the left (as you set in the machine) stick. After flipping the ROPS up....the problem is an aluminum 'yoke' (for lack of a better term) that turns the valve on that side....the pinchbolt is tight....but it's still loose on the shaft. As a short term fix, is there any reason I can't remove it, fire up my mill and make a spacer/shim to take up the play? Or, should I just leave it alone and get a new one when my (ordered but not yet here) parts/service manuals arrive. Doesn't look like rocket science.....but I've said that before....and ended up with a large can-o-worms. Thanks! Jim

 

[skidsteer.ca]

Thats a common problem with the 700 series.
The only issue is that taking it apart will mess up the centering ajustment that put the "steering stick" in neutral. I take it the pinch bolt can't just be tightened.
Your F series has a electric solinoid park pin for a parking brake. It goes on automatically when ever you lift the seat bar or turn the key off. If the centering adjustment is off, it can be tough to hold the stick in neutral, to take the pressure off the park pin, so the solinoid can disengage the pin/brake. It is the loud click you hear when you pull the bar down or push the green "operate" button.
If you search "neutral" or "steering adjustment" there are some posts on this procedure,
Ken

 

[sawdust]

Thats a common problem with the 700 series.
The only issue is that taking it apart will mess up the centering ajustment that put the "steering stick" in neutral. I take it the pinch bolt can't just be tightened.
Your F series has a electric solinoid park pin for a parking brake. It goes on automatically when ever you lift the seat bar or turn the key off. If the centering adjustment is off, it can be tough to hold the stick in neutral, to take the pressure off the park pin, so the solinoid can disengage the pin/brake. It is the loud click you hear when you pull the bar down or push the green "operate" button.
If you search "neutral" or "steering adjustment" there are some posts on this procedure,
Ken

I managed to get it tightened up on the shaft....but now the centering adjustment is off. Wished I had my (ordered) manual.... I *assume* that this adjustment is made by moving the blocks (held in by two bolts) that seat against the two rollers on the yokes. I've read through what I could find searching....but is there a right and wrong order of adjustment? One side's fine. I'm guessing that I leave that side alone, and fuss with the other. Any input would be greatly appreciated! Jim

 

[skidsteer.ca]

I managed to get it tightened up on the shaft....but now the centering adjustment is off. Wished I had my (ordered) manual.... I *assume* that this adjustment is made by moving the blocks (held in by two bolts) that seat against the two rollers on the yokes. I've read through what I could find searching....but is there a right and wrong order of adjustment? One side's fine. I'm guessing that I leave that side alone, and fuss with the other. Any input would be greatly appreciated! Jim

Jim leave the one side alone. Put the machine on blacks so the wheels can rotate and release the park brake, push the stick and let them center themselves and see if the end result is consistant.
Now lift the cab and move the trouble side steering stick to where the wheels stop.
Observe which of the blocks you mentioned is not touching, loose the bolt so it is lightly holding on and then tap the block up against the arm you tighted up, and retighten the bolt.
Move the stick and let it center itself again a few times, repeat if necessary.
Note over time the plastic guides and the round and square contact parts can wear to the point where it is impossible to get a repeatable neutral, and it time for new parts.
Lube the plastic sliders any time you have the cab up, also there is a grease nipple on each steering lever. Also check the oil level in the aluminum gear case that drives the fan, its 80 /90 gear oil
Ken

 

[sawdust]

Jim leave the one side alone. Put the machine on blacks so the wheels can rotate and release the park brake, push the stick and let them center themselves and see if the end result is consistant.
Now lift the cab and move the trouble side steering stick to where the wheels stop.
Observe which of the blocks you mentioned is not touching, loose the bolt so it is lightly holding on and then tap the block up against the arm you tighted up, and retighten the bolt.
Move the stick and let it center itself again a few times, repeat if necessary.
Note over time the plastic guides and the round and square contact parts can wear to the point where it is impossible to get a repeatable neutral, and it time for new parts.
Lube the plastic sliders any time you have the cab up, also there is a grease nipple on each steering lever. Also check the oil level in the aluminum gear case that drives the fan, its 80 /90 gear oil
Ken

Ken....thanks a ton for taking the time to walk me through this. I've got it about 98% of perfect which is 'close enough' until I get a couple new plastic bushings....then I can get it perfect. That IS a 'pain-in-the-butt' job.....especially when there's a partially-assembled Mercedes-Benz living on your only set of heavy-duty jackstands. I did it on the floor....and if I had a nickel for every time I raised and lowered the ROPS....I'd be able to afford a new machine... Thanks again. Hopefully, I'll get the parts & service manuals soon so I quit bothering you. Jim

 

[skidsteer.ca]

Ken....thanks a ton for taking the time to walk me through this. I've got it about 98% of perfect which is 'close enough' until I get a couple new plastic bushings....then I can get it perfect. That IS a 'pain-in-the-butt' job.....especially when there's a partially-assembled Mercedes-Benz living on your only set of heavy-duty jackstands. I did it on the floor....and if I had a nickel for every time I raised and lowered the ROPS....I'd be able to afford a new machine... Thanks again. Hopefully, I'll get the parts & service manuals soon so I quit bothering you. Jim

Its alot easier if you block it up, then it can't run away. The worst is if you get them both out and you can't get both sides to stop at the same time so the park pin can release.
The machine moans and groans against the park pin trying to shear it off (very tough, had one enguage while driving 5 mph and nothing broke) and stall the engine.
The park pin solinoid is in the center at the front under the rops, 3 heavy wires coming from it.
If you ever need to defeat it. Just remove the 2 small bolt (7/16" wrench) on each side and slide it up of the shaft that is in the center.
Then lift the shaft up about 1 1/2" and put a hose clamp around the shaft to hold it there. Now you park brake should be off.
This is good to know because some electrical problems will leave you with the brake stuck on. Now you will be able to get to the shop, trailer, finish your work or adjust a badly messed up steering.
Ken