Need advice for removing Wisconsin engine from M600

[GlennsM444]

Hello everyone, Since repowering my M444 last fall she's been running like new so I haven't been on the forum. But like my buddies say: "You'll never be satisfied with a new car, cause there wouldn't be anything wrong with it to fix!" Which brings us to my latest project: A 1967 Melroe M600 I just scored on craigslist for 300 bucks. Its got a seized Wisconsin V4 (failed on the poor guy right after rebuild, a problem I have heard happens sometimes with the Wisconsin.) Anyway, I plan to yank out the old Wisconsin and bide my time looking for a newer Kohler or Briggs. Vanguard. My question: How should I best go about getting this engine out? Man, its tight in there. I imagine I need to remove the variable speed drive sheave. Is there anything I need to remove on the flywheel side of the engine in order to give me some wiggle room? Its tighter than my mother in law's ass in there. gc

 

[6brnorma]

Glenn……you're asking a pretty broad question……..Wisconsin engines have been a workhorse of an engine for nearly half a century (including military)…..they don't "just fail" unless they weren't rebuilt correctly. I have a number of VH4D engines in use commercially and get many years of service out of each. The only one that ever "just failed" was rebuilt by a Bobcat dealership and they put the rods in backwards. That said……yes the variable speed sheave must come off…..disconnect all wiring and hydro lines and she slides out, only about an inch or less on each side for clearance but she comes out. I did it by hand for years but a small engine hoist makes it much nicer.

 

[GlennsM444]

Glenn……you're asking a pretty broad question……..Wisconsin engines have been a workhorse of an engine for nearly half a century (including military)…..they don't "just fail" unless they weren't rebuilt correctly. I have a number of VH4D engines in use commercially and get many years of service out of each. The only one that ever "just failed" was rebuilt by a Bobcat dealership and they put the rods in backwards. That said……yes the variable speed sheave must come off…..disconnect all wiring and hydro lines and she slides out, only about an inch or less on each side for clearance but she comes out. I did it by hand for years but a small engine hoist makes it much nicer.

I should have said, they fail when not rebuilt properly. I read about it once on another discussion form; something to do with oil not reaching all parts of the engine. So I guess now I have the task of removing the variable speed drive pulley while it is in the machine.cant wait...

 

[6brnorma]

I should have said, they fail when not rebuilt properly. I read about it once on another discussion form; something to do with oil not reaching all parts of the engine. So I guess now I have the task of removing the variable speed drive pulley while it is in the machine.cant wait...

We just had this discussion a few threads down started by bobcatman88…….look through it and see if that helps in the event you've never had to pull one.

 

[gearbox]

We just had this discussion a few threads down started by bobcatman88…….look through it and see if that helps in the event you've never had to pull one.

The crank is tapered unlike Onan or Kohler the clutch is a bit harder to remove . My dealers are realy good about sharing info and parts printouts. Gearbox

 

[thynes]

Glenn, having gone through this recently, I remember most of the details. I bought my basket case with the Wisconsin engine already removed, but install is the opposite of removal. As has been said you will need to remove the variable sheave drive, the hydraulic lines to the pump, wires, fuel lines, throttle linkage, etc. The engine pulls out the back, it will NOT come out the top. You will need to remove the rear door, AND the bottom of the door frame. When you have removed enough stuff, it will slide right out, well it will slide as well as any 200ish pound motor will. Give me a shout if you run into any problems. Regards, Tim in Mass