Mustang 1700 Reset

[T-rustyfix]

I decided to overhaul my engine. It's going to be WAYYYYY cheaper than purchasing any unknown engine out there.

Progress:

Here's what the drive clutches look like. I'm going to run them and see if I regret it.

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Decided to sidetrack and overhaul the 12SI alternator. Whew, something easy. But, not much useable inside.

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Time to pull the torque convertor.

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This is a Ford C-4 transmission charge pump. You can see the torque convertor is a direct drive to the pinion that mates to the gear box.

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While I'm waiting for parts to arrive, I'm going to replace the two rear axle seals. Look for that in a week or so.

Al Jones
early 70s Mustang 1700
Brookings SD

Your clutches look great! I would definitely use them, considering a replacement clutch is $50 for each one… works out to about $1,200 to replace the packs. Adjust them perfectly, and you will get a lot of service life out of them. Running on low hydraulic fluid, or a steep upward incline burns them up. The pick up for the hydraulic transmission fluid is at the front of the machine on my 1200. This is the supply for the pump and the clutch lube. If you drive up an long, steep incline, the fluid stops flowing, the clutches can overheat, and they burn up just like automatic transmission clutches.

Looks like a fun project!

 

[jonesallu]

I've been asked about the brakes for the 1700. Here's what I have.

Operators Manual:

Parts Manual:

Photos of brake system on axle:

I installed the zirk fitting on the adjuster holder. That was so froze up, I drilled and tapped the hole, and then used my grease gun to force the adjusters out, and then left the zirk in. Doesn't hurt anything. I bathed, showered, drowned the adjusters in anti-seize.

More photos in next post (limited to 10 per post, I guess?).

Al Jones

 

[jonesallu]

More of brakes on axle:

There is a casting number of 8832 on the drum, but that's not a part number.

Photos of master cylinder (rebuilt) system in cab, mounted under the floor, so you need 5 hole plate:

If you're wondering about the green spring, I have been able to find NOS parts here and there. It's not been easy.

The master mount seems to be unique to the 1700. The master cylinder I used was M36071. That number works for both Napa and eBay. I used a new Wagner off eBay. I reused the drums and pads that were on mine as they were in good shape. Also, I could never find anything close to either when I was overhauling mine. I had damaged parts that I had laser cut for replacement. I cannot find a number for the slaves, but I'll keep looking. The way I found the slave was to look at Napa's Catalog "Wheel Cylinders by Illustration". There's a gazillion in the catalog but, it was worth it to browse it.

Al Jones
Brookings, SD

 

[Emma]

Mostly a one off, would consider another, but only for someone I know.

I have an Owatonna 1700 Mustang that I need to find a new home for, but there doesn't seem to be the same level of interest in these machines in our area that you find on the skid loader forums.

 

[jonesallu]

Update on progress:

Straightening bent stuff:

I'm into the torque convertor and have found all the parts except where to sent the convertor to be overhauled. The "charge pump" is nothing more than a Ford C-3/C-4 automatic transmission pump. The torque convertor is also a standard convertor for small displacement cars. Someone mentioned it being cold blooded but IF you have the right ATF in the machine, temperature will not affect this part of the machine (charge pump+ torque convertor). There is a 50 psi relief valve on the top of the adapter - that could also be an issue if not adjusted correctly.

Overhauled the Cessna hydraulic pump. I had to use a new lock for the gear as the other had been previously bashed on. The one photo shows checking the correct clearance to the mounting adapter. The Cessna pump is rated at 24 gpm. I can't remember what the rated pressure is.

I bought this spare skid steer for $400 so I could pick a few parts off it. It is totally complete so I'll let parts from it go to others when I'm finished.

 

[jonesallu]

I'd like to comment on the engine here.

It's the Ford V-4 with a Ford torque convertor. I think it's way better than the variable pulley system. All parts are easy to find but certain ones can be very, very expensive. So, I've dug into other engine parts manuals to what other engine parts fit the V-4. I'm a scrapper and want to get the best deal I can, and am not in a hurry. In summary, this the Taunus engine, also called the German Ford V4 as it was only manufactured in West Germany. It is not the same at the British version. Parts from a 70s Capri (Mercury) 2.8L (171 cid ONLY) V6 will work in parts of the engine, and some parts from an 80s Ford Explorer V-6 will work as well. Your caliper will tell you what fits. The balance shaft bearings and seals are only for this engine so you might as well make your wallet scream and buy those on the open market. I could only find standard size pistons (90mm) used, and only 0.5mm and 1.0mm oversize pistons (essentially 20 and 40 over) new, but expensive. I have an engine lathe and Bridgeport mill so I am making some of my own parts for the engine. The cheapest (correct) intake valve I could find was $105 each so I bought a close one ($15) and turned it down on my lathe. I'm sticking with all metric so the next guy won't get confused. I'll post pictures once I get the engine assembled and tested. Again, if you have the $$, all the engine parts are readily available. The last time I looked, there was a rebuilt short block on ePay for $2800.

The camshaft gear previously divorced itself from the camshaft and damaged the aluminum cover. They appear to have done a nice job with the repair, and I'm a picky bugger, so that saying a lot. I found all Melling aluminum gears to replace the fiber ones. I'm not into the crankshaft yet, but am hopeful I will work with just a polish. The camshaft polished nicely.

Al Jones
1972 OMC Mustang 1700

 

[Berlincam86]

Are you finished with that parts machine? I could use the brakes system if it has it still.

 

[Berlincam86]

And or the Radiator

 

[jonesallu]

Are you finished with that parts machine? I could use the brakes system if it has it still.

I'm a long ways from being done with the parts skid steer. There are no brakes on it and I've already scalped the radiator for this reset.

Al Jones
'72 OMC Mustang 1700

 

[FarmerD]

Btw I believe the 4 cylinder ford engine also was used in ford CL40 skidloaders from the 80s. I grew up running one and the engine looked identical. The loader itself was built by ericson. This would be another machine to source engine parts from

 

[FungusAmongUs]

Are you finished with that parts machine? I could use the brakes system if it has it still.

Here is one of facebook marketplace in wisconsin https://www.facebook.com/share/1BSRAwFQyG/

 

[Berlincam86]

Has anyone found a cheaper starter that will work for these. $325 is the cheapest i can find.

 

[JimB1]

Are there any starter/alternator rebuild shops near you? That's a pretty inexpensive route.

 

[jonesallu]

Starters: stock Bosch number is 0-001-211-023 and many variants on that number will work. If you're spiffy, you can find a variant that will fit and have more power. I think the stock starter is 1kW and the one I bought was 1.1kW. The stock Bosch starter also crosses to many, many rebuilder numbers. I bought mine from Rock Auto last year for $68.23 shipped (it was on special). I went with Remy 16414 as I've found them to be decent rebuilds. I don't think the gear reduction starters are worth the money if everything is in decent shape. The only rebuild parts I could find were from the European Union and their neighbors.

Photos: stock starter info, Remy number (it's a rebuilt Bosch), rebuilt starter, variant information.

Good luck,
Allen