LS 180 still starting hard after head rebuild and top end refresh

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Nik79

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Sep 11, 2024
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So as a lot of you know my 04 Ls180 was hard starting and smoking…. and long story short , head was refreshed, decked new valve job, new rebuilt injectors. After all buttoned back up, it still starts like crap. Have to turn it over forever. But once it starts it runs. I'm to my breaking point with this machine. I can't catch a break, now it's freakin 20 degrees out. Anyways, I'm open to ideas. I don't think the injector pump is to blame, because it does eventually run. I did lite a rag in the air intake which seemed to help warm the air . And since block heater was on it didn't have the grid heater countdown come on. Open to any and all suggestions . Thanks , Nik
 
Once it coughs and coughs and warms up it runs fine. There is some blue smoke, but not much. I'm wondering if it's a fuel issue. I would think it wouldn't run at full speed if it was a fuel related issue. I'm still wondering if it is rings and compression related. I never did a compression test. I'm missing something simple. I don't k ow what it is, but when I figure it out, it's something simple I bet.
 
Sounds familiar, although I did not have any hard starting. Being an ivenco 332T engine, it may be as simple as an injection timing advance of 1 or 2 degrees.
Read my thread. If it applies to your situation, great.
 
You mentioned the cold but not the glow plugs.
Have you used them?
Do you have them?
 
You have not mentioned the glow plugs.
The count down is there but are the glow plugs working?
 
This engine doesn't have glow plugs. Uses a grid heater on the intake.
 

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Right, but it doesn't start easy when it's like 50 degrees out or even 60 or 70. And now I have no fuel out of the injection pump. So there's that
 
Just wondering, did you move or adjust the injector pump timing at all during the head repair? How did it start before when it was running? I think you should run a compression test before moving on to other testing to make sure bottom end is in good shape.
 
No did not touch it. It was hard starting before as well. Now I have no fuel out of injector pump. I have fuel to it but not discharge line, so I'm thinking it is all lean g towards bad injector pump. Of course it had to die half way down my drive. Gotta see what I have to do to remove the pump now. Looks like might need to remove front timing cover. And arms are blocking all access.
 
Inspect pump drive if all is OK take it to be tested at a place that tests deisel pumps. Also check fuel coming from the tank to the pump with no water or contamination if any.
 
I have an LS185b and for reasons I won't go into I pulled the motor and yanked the cam (disturbed the timing). I thought I had marked and restored everything correctly. When I started it up it did run ok but produced blue smoke after it warmed up. I finally noticed there was a significant change in sound between cold engine and warm engine. In fact there is a timing advance solenoid that is energized when the engine coolant temperature is below, if I recall correctly, 130 degrees. Once it reaches 130 degrees the advance solenoid drops out (de-energized) and the timing retards on purpose. That's when the blue smoke appeared. I then took manual control of this solenoid and was able to switch it on and off at will. I have video showing every time I energized it (advanced injection timing) the blue smoke went ways like magic. Every time I de-energized it (retarded timing for warm engine operation) the blue smoke re-appeared. This was 100% repeatable.

This led me to check the injection pump timing and found, after I had messed with the engine, it was off. Before I pulled the motor it never smoked, was super clean. I checked the timing and found it was not at spec. Re-set the injection pump timing and it has never smoked (cold or warm) again. That was my fix. It's been working fine for 3 years after re-timing it. Still runs great.
 
That's good info. Might have to check the advanced sensor solenoid. Anyways pump is getting rebuilt in the shop. One shop wanted $2600 for a full rebuild, found another guy for $1500. I love how the first shop said it was completely rusted, the whole body is aluminum. Anyways I figure new rebuild and I should be good to go.
 
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