looking for help , l565 boom lower pin @ quick attach broken off

[heatpumpproducts]

on my LX565 yesterday , i was rolling down my driveway and picking up some small rocks and roots a racked out of my lawn earlier .
the boom knuckel and pin broke out at the welds it looked to be once repaired before.
so that is why i am asking for suggestions , to do it wright the second time .
now i took a look at both sides and the other side was also repaired and wraped with flate
bar welded up the boom over the hub and under the boom up the arm about 10" or so .
the problem was the pin was welded to the hub and had no way of removing it , so this is what i decided to do;
i took the parts the castle machine works , a well respected machine shop , and asked them to turn me a new hub and a pin that passes all the way through the hub , the original was
taken apart and it shouldered in the hub but did not pass all the way through .
my reassoning was so that i mite be able to remove or replace the quick attach system
at a later date if needed . now following the other side i was going to bend and weld a flat
bar over the hub up the arm and under and up the back side too.
here's my question ? after being able to look inside the arm now the side plate is only 1/4"
on both sides the top and bottom are 3/8 to 1/2" plates . what i was thinking was adding
2 plates one on either side of the hub with the inner plate bored out to allow the pin to pass through and the outer side bored out to allow for the bolt that holdes the assembly together.
would that be or is thier any recall info out thier on this subject . messicks has something called gussets and other reinforcement plates that they sell . have any other people out
thier exsperienced any other ways to fix this problem .

 

[Tazza]

I can't get a full picture of this setup in my head, but there is a lot of force in this area any extra strength you can provide will be an advantage. Its a good idea to make it so you can easily remove the pin to replace it if needed. Try and weld both side of the mounting plate, preferably with a stick welder and not MIG. MIG welders i have found with standard home hanyman gas just don't have the penetration needed, the gas is formulated to give *pretty* welds. I personally used ferrocraft 11 for the first pass, they are a rutile rod that is a real pain with an AC welder then went over the top with ferrocraft 61 to give a nice finish.
If you can give a few pictures that would be an advantage.
I hope your repair goes well.

 

[skidsteer.ca]

I can't get a full picture of this setup in my head, but there is a lot of force in this area any extra strength you can provide will be an advantage. Its a good idea to make it so you can easily remove the pin to replace it if needed. Try and weld both side of the mounting plate, preferably with a stick welder and not MIG. MIG welders i have found with standard home hanyman gas just don't have the penetration needed, the gas is formulated to give *pretty* welds. I personally used ferrocraft 11 for the first pass, they are a rutile rod that is a real pain with an AC welder then went over the top with ferrocraft 61 to give a nice finish.
If you can give a few pictures that would be an advantage.
I hope your repair goes well.

Yes if you can upload (or email Tazza or I) some pictures to upload. Everyone will understand the problem clear and may be able to offer some additional suggestions.
Ken

 

[heatpumpproducts]

Yes if you can upload (or email Tazza or I) some pictures to upload. Everyone will understand the problem clear and may be able to offer some additional suggestions.
Ken

yes i intended to make a picture record , today after taking the quick tack off both sides of the boom . i looked at the hub i had gotten made and it to recieve the new pin to make the quick tack knuckel .

i decieded to make a template of both sides of that new part (hub) . i'll ask a welder to
weld the plates and the hub to the end of the boom arm 3/16 inside for clearence and 3/8"
out side . i will clean up all the past work with the grinder and square up the old welds
too. i also am have a new pin made for the hub on the other side as the bushings recieved little or no grease . and changing both bushings that suround the pins on the quick tack .
i made up a washer shim for the cylinder and pin that meet at the quick tack as well
and made sure all the pins zirks allowed grease to enter the bushings , they were pluged with grindings & grease.

 

[mllud]

yes i intended to make a picture record , today after taking the quick tack off both sides of the boom . i looked at the hub i had gotten made and it to recieve the new pin to make the quick tack knuckel .



i decieded to make a template of both sides of that new part (hub) . i'll ask a welder to
weld the plates and the hub to the end of the boom arm 3/16 inside for clearence and 3/8"
out side . i will clean up all the past work with the grinder and square up the old welds
too. i also am have a new pin made for the hub on the other side as the bushings recieved little or no grease . and changing both bushings that suround the pins on the quick tack .
i made up a washer shim for the cylinder and pin that meet at the quick tack as well
and made sure all the pins zirks allowed grease to enter the bushings , they were pluged with grindings & grease.

Those pins have a taper and wedge them in tight. Somome must have let it wollow around loose at some time. I think those pins are around 60 dollars at new holland .Mike

 

[Earthwerks Unlimited]

Those pins have a taper and wedge them in tight. Somome must have let it wollow around loose at some time. I think those pins are around 60 dollars at new holland .Mike

I have not taken my unit apart so I'm talking about something I'm not familar with buuuut...I doubt that the New Holland made those pivot areas to be out-of-center alignment side-to-side---but I could be wrong. That said, you will likely need to have someone "in-line bore" your new bushing holder (that you are fabricating to weld to the boom) and have it aligned perfectly in line with the left side. Otherwise, what will happen is the bushing will wallow out quickly and or worse when things are tight, the new part could break off due to metal fatigue as it wants to move everytime the mounting plate is moved. There are self-centering two-piece split bushings that you MAY be able to use to allow for misalignment---talk to a well-stocked bearing or applied power supplier. In-line boring is the best way to go though. Also, if you try to skip that step and remove the mounting plate and run a long rod through the loader arm bushings I doubt that you will get it aligned because the holder will move while it's being welded.

 

[mllud]

I have not taken my unit apart so I'm talking about something I'm not familar with buuuut...I doubt that the New Holland made those pivot areas to be out-of-center alignment side-to-side---but I could be wrong. That said, you will likely need to have someone "in-line bore" your new bushing holder (that you are fabricating to weld to the boom) and have it aligned perfectly in line with the left side. Otherwise, what will happen is the bushing will wallow out quickly and or worse when things are tight, the new part could break off due to metal fatigue as it wants to move everytime the mounting plate is moved. There are self-centering two-piece split bushings that you MAY be able to use to allow for misalignment---talk to a well-stocked bearing or applied power supplier. In-line boring is the best way to go though. Also, if you try to skip that step and remove the mounting plate and run a long rod through the loader arm bushings I doubt that you will get it aligned because the holder will move while it's being welded.

He could probably aligne By installing both his new ends with pins thru the quick tach . Then aligne to the end of the ends of the boom to weld.
The quick tach would be the alignment tool.
Mike

 

[mllud]

He could probably aligne By installing both his new ends with pins thru the quick tach . Then aligne to the end of the ends of the boom to weld.
The quick tach would be the alignment tool.
Mike

Earthwerks your method would be more precise. I guess with the movment within the pins things could get misaligned Mike

 

[jerry]

Earthwerks your method would be more precise. I guess with the movment within the pins things could get misaligned Mike

A good fabrication/machine shop welder should be able to reconstruct that and end up very close in alignment if they have a piece to line it up with. Line boring will certainly be the most accurate but quite expensive and time consuming if it is done on a standard horizontal boring mill. I ran horizontal bar for some years and we did a lot of jobs like that, they take time to set up and do. The self-aligning bushing idea sounds good, we called them torringtons or ball bushings and they come in a lot of sizes.

 

[skidsteer.ca]

A good fabrication/machine shop welder should be able to reconstruct that and end up very close in alignment if they have a piece to line it up with. Line boring will certainly be the most accurate but quite expensive and time consuming if it is done on a standard horizontal boring mill. I ran horizontal bar for some years and we did a lot of jobs like that, they take time to set up and do. The self-aligning bushing idea sounds good, we called them torringtons or ball bushings and they come in a lot of sizes.

I agree too that line boring is the most aaccurate, however I have done 2 now just using the new pins and bushings to hold it in alignment while I tack it up. Then check alignment, rotate the qa and looks for problems , carefully finish welding it up. It has worked fine for me.
Ken

 

[kolo]

I agree too that line boring is the most aaccurate, however I have done 2 now just using the new pins and bushings to hold it in alignment while I tack it up. Then check alignment, rotate the qa and looks for problems , carefully finish welding it up. It has worked fine for me.
Ken

All those parts are available to rebuild that hub. A service bulletin is available and listed in the New Holland Shop manual. Also a gusset plate is available to strengthen this area for just this reason. I have a 465 and a 665. I only have the manual for the 465 so I cant give you part numbers. Maybe Messicks.com can help.