Log Splitter ????

[vinrum]

I have a Mustang 2044 and I am in the process of putting together a splitter with a 5" ram with a 30 through...will my auxilary hydraulics have enough pressure to push it with no problem...I am not using a detent valve, I am going direct to the machine...Thank You

 

[Tazza]

I can't see a problem, your machine should have at least 11GPM of flow at say 2,500 - 3,000 PSI thats more than enough for a good sized ram. With a 5" bore, that will give you some serious power!
The larger the piston of the ram the more force you get with the same hydraulic oil pressure. Even say 500 PSI with a 5" bore i think would be more than enough for most jobs.
Let us know how it all goes.

 

[skidsteer.ca]

I can't see a problem, your machine should have at least 11GPM of flow at say 2,500 - 3,000 PSI thats more than enough for a good sized ram. With a 5" bore, that will give you some serious power!
The larger the piston of the ram the more force you get with the same hydraulic oil pressure. Even say 500 PSI with a 5" bore i think would be more than enough for most jobs.
Let us know how it all goes.

Unless you have some seriously tough wood 5" cyl on a skidsteer is overkill. Most skidsteers have fairly high pressures, in the 2500 to 3000 psi or higher range. That kind ofpressure will get you some serious tonagewith a smaller piston.
I have a 4" ram and its relief is at 2500 psi and nothing around here has stopped it yet. Think its about 18 ton.
I also run it on a 24 gpm high flow loader and still find that 2000 rpm is needed to get decent speed. A 5" on a std flow loader will result is slower cycle times, which will have you running you the engine wot trying to get some speed out of it, imo
You need to figure your cycle times with the pump you have and the cylinder you want. Then decide if you can live with the cycle time to get the tonnage you want/need.
If you design for 30 tons, but only need it once in 100 blocks, remember that the other 99 times your are going to have to wait for it to make the stroke.
Also plan for a 4 way wedge, your going to want it. If I was building one to run from in the cab (upside down model) I would also make it so I could flip it up right (mount to the qa plate with a 2" reciever, then you can use the qa plate to spot trailers to) and plan to put a valve on it too. I think with the upside down model you will need someone on the ground constantly clearing the split wood away and lining you up more, but that just my opinion.
Ken

 

[BPS]

Unless you have some seriously tough wood 5" cyl on a skidsteer is overkill. Most skidsteers have fairly high pressures, in the 2500 to 3000 psi or higher range. That kind ofpressure will get you some serious tonagewith a smaller piston.
I have a 4" ram and its relief is at 2500 psi and nothing around here has stopped it yet. Think its about 18 ton.
I also run it on a 24 gpm high flow loader and still find that 2000 rpm is needed to get decent speed. A 5" on a std flow loader will result is slower cycle times, which will have you running you the engine wot trying to get some speed out of it, imo
You need to figure your cycle times with the pump you have and the cylinder you want. Then decide if you can live with the cycle time to get the tonnage you want/need.
If you design for 30 tons, but only need it once in 100 blocks, remember that the other 99 times your are going to have to wait for it to make the stroke.
Also plan for a 4 way wedge, your going to want it. If I was building one to run from in the cab (upside down model) I would also make it so I could flip it up right (mount to the qa plate with a 2" reciever, then you can use the qa plate to spot trailers to) and plan to put a valve on it too. I think with the upside down model you will need someone on the ground constantly clearing the split wood away and lining you up more, but that just my opinion.
Ken

A little off topic, but what is that advantage of having a log splitter on a skid steer. You can buy a "decent" machine at Tractor Supply or Lowe's and not be running up the hours on your machine, and I would imagine they use less fuel.
I priced some of these commercially made and they are significantly more than a model with a Honda engine? Why the big markup on the skidsteer models, especially when they don't have a motor?

 

[Tazza]

A little off topic, but what is that advantage of having a log splitter on a skid steer. You can buy a "decent" machine at Tractor Supply or Lowe's and not be running up the hours on your machine, and I would imagine they use less fuel.
I priced some of these commercially made and they are significantly more than a model with a Honda engine? Why the big markup on the skidsteer models, especially when they don't have a motor?

I have seen some that were skid steer mounted that you could go to your pile of logs and use the machine to move around and pick them up, then you don't have to do any manual lifting.
I'd expect that on a skid steer you would have more flow than on a *normal* splitter.

 

[skidsteer.ca]

I have seen some that were skid steer mounted that you could go to your pile of logs and use the machine to move around and pick them up, then you don't have to do any manual lifting.
I'd expect that on a skid steer you would have more flow than on a *normal* splitter.

The skidsteer ones are easier to move along your pile of wood, I don't use it alot so I'm not concerned about the hours. For some reason the store I bought mine from was blowing it out for $300 new. It was too good a deal to pass up.
It is a 3pt hitch, vert/horz with a detent valve, I just put a QA plate on it and double checked that it had a relief valve as the tie rod cylinder is only 2500 psi max. Works great.
I do agree about the skidsteer one being pricy for what you get. 1100 or 1200 will get you a 20 ton 5.5 hp on a trailer, and you could put a QA plate on it to move it or tow it with ??? and use it with or without the skidsteer if you wanted.

 

[vinrum]

The skidsteer ones are easier to move along your pile of wood, I don't use it alot so I'm not concerned about the hours. For some reason the store I bought mine from was blowing it out for $300 new. It was too good a deal to pass up.
It is a 3pt hitch, vert/horz with a detent valve, I just put a QA plate on it and double checked that it had a relief valve as the tie rod cylinder is only 2500 psi max. Works great.
I do agree about the skidsteer one being pricy for what you get. 1100 or 1200 will get you a 20 ton 5.5 hp on a trailer, and you could put a QA plate on it to move it or tow it with ??? and use it with or without the skidsteer if you wanted.

Ok guys, I finally have everything tacked together..Now I am second guessing the welding ...What do you guys recommend for welding this splitter....I went a little overkill with the cylinder bracing...I have two 1 1/4 plates sandwiched around the cylinder hold down, all beveled and ready to go...Now, I dont know what to weld this with, a (Mig) or a (Stick).....And what method should I use,,,I hear alot of nightmares of welds not holding

Thanks
Steve

 

[Tazza]

Ok guys, I finally have everything tacked together..Now I am second guessing the welding ...What do you guys recommend for welding this splitter....I went a little overkill with the cylinder bracing...I have two 1 1/4 plates sandwiched around the cylinder hold down, all beveled and ready to go...Now, I dont know what to weld this with, a (Mig) or a (Stick).....And what method should I use,,,I hear alot of nightmares of welds not holding

Thanks
Steve

For large section steel i personally use the stick as i KNOW it will dig in and hold. I use a cellulose rod on my inverter welder for strong welds on thick steel. I think they are 4111? style they are murder to use on an ac welder though but the inverter eats them up really well, they are ferocraft 11 made by CIG or now BOC.
For light gauge steel i use the MIG, i have never found a MIG any good for high penetration welds, it could just be the gas i use.
You can never over build an attachment! the more steel the stronger it will be.

 

[vinrum]

For large section steel i personally use the stick as i KNOW it will dig in and hold. I use a cellulose rod on my inverter welder for strong welds on thick steel. I think they are 4111? style they are murder to use on an ac welder though but the inverter eats them up really well, they are ferocraft 11 made by CIG or now BOC.
For light gauge steel i use the MIG, i have never found a MIG any good for high penetration welds, it could just be the gas i use.
You can never over build an attachment! the more steel the stronger it will be.

Tazza, I am not sure what you are talking about when you say a inverter...I have a Bobcat 225 that I am going to use...Also, where could I pick up some of those rods...I was planning on using a 7018, now that I am aware not to use a MIG..
Thanks
Steve

 

[Tazza]

Tazza, I am not sure what you are talking about when you say a inverter...I have a Bobcat 225 that I am going to use...Also, where could I pick up some of those rods...I was planning on using a 7018, now that I am aware not to use a MIG..
Thanks
Steve

I'll have to look up the specs on the rods when i get home.
The inverter welder i have is high frequency DC. It can only put out 150 amps but its more than enough for all i need. Its has a pretty bad duty cycle, you can lay down a 3.2mm rod at full power then it will want a rest to cool down.
The rods don't lay a really pretty weld, but they sure do cut deep. They aren't smooth running as such, a fair amount of spatter but you just lay one down, give it a clean then lay a nice smooth rod over the top to make it *pretty*.

 

[140mower]

Tazza, I am not sure what you are talking about when you say a inverter...I have a Bobcat 225 that I am going to use...Also, where could I pick up some of those rods...I was planning on using a 7018, now that I am aware not to use a MIG..
Thanks
Steve

Steve,
7018 should do just fine and would be my choice of rod, high tensile strength and decent crack resistance not to mention it runs pretty decent in both AC or DC.
Don

 

[Tazza]

Steve,
7018 should do just fine and would be my choice of rod, high tensile strength and decent crack resistance not to mention it runs pretty decent in both AC or DC.
Don

I haven't tried other rods so i can't really be much use, but the ferrocraft 11 rods i use work pretty well, they are 6011 style. I have used 7018's before, they drove me nuts! they were hard to start and keep burning, i don't know if yours are better but ours were horrible. 7018's were also known as ferrocraft 61.
With all that said, i have found any quality electrode that burns well will give a better weld than a MIG would, strength wise, as for looks MIG mostly is far "prettier".

 

[jerry]

the 7018 rod is available as a ac rod also, I have trouble with 7018 unless it is the ac version which works fine. It is marked ac on the rod.

 

[Tazza]

the 7018 rod is available as a ac rod also, I have trouble with 7018 unless it is the ac version which works fine. It is marked ac on the rod.

Your 7018 rods must be better than ours, i have tried 2 different welders, AC and DC, both with little success. I can get them to start burning but find it hard to control, then they stop or stick to the steel.

 

[sterlclan]

Your 7018 rods must be better than ours, i have tried 2 different welders, AC and DC, both with little success. I can get them to start burning but find it hard to control, then they stop or stick to the steel.

tazza it has a lot to do with heat and the dryness of the rods a little time in the oven will do wonders for the weldabality of those rods........

 

[vinrum]

tazza it has a lot to do with heat and the dryness of the rods a little time in the oven will do wonders for the weldabality of those rods........

So I should heat the rods, Before welding with them???? Now I am lost...

 

[mllud]

So I should heat the rods, Before welding with them???? Now I am lost...

Welding rods have a flux coating on them that picks up moisture from the humidity in the air.Even steel rods without flux will hold a little moisure.The heating is to dry them out. Welding shops have an oven that they keep their welding rods in before using.

 

[2COR517]

Welding rods have a flux coating on them that picks up moisture from the humidity in the air.Even steel rods without flux will hold a little moisure.The heating is to dry them out. Welding shops have an oven that they keep their welding rods in before using.

You can also put/keep your welding rods in the fridge to dry them out. Just don't get mama upset.

 

[perry]

You can also put/keep your welding rods in the fridge to dry them out. Just don't get mama upset.

Fridge!, that reminds me of another no no. Don't use the dishwasher to clean carburetors unless she's gone for the day.........