Kubota v1902 won't start

[kohl_cytre]

I'd remove or wind back the decompression setup. It is not used in this machine, the starter is more than powerful enough to spin the engine fast enough to get it to start.
Get the injectors out, put them apart but keep their parts together. If you have any problems here, let me know and i'll try to give yo more detail of what to do to make sure they are free. Then if youa re getting fuel from the injector pump, you hook a tube line to the pump out the back, install an injector and crank, this is a quick go or no go test for the injectors. They should make a nice spray cone without any drips.

Yes I will definetly need some tips when it comes to working with the injectors. As an update, I've freeded up the decompression lever and assembly. I dismantelled it and lubercated all the parts. It now works like it should. I've checked the rocker arms and checked to see if any valves were sticking. They are all free moving. I did notice that the injector pump had loose fittings at the base of the injector body. I pulled off all of the tues. I had to remove two of the caps and springs of the injector pump to gain access when removing the tubes. I tightened all the caps and made sure that the springs went back in straight and were not pinched. Tomorrow I'm going to perform a compression test. I'll probally try to pull the injectors when I do this. I ordered new glow plugs just for the hell of it. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the compression test comes out good. Then I'll move onto testing the injector pump and the injectors. Will need details on cleaning and inspecting those. But I'm starting to get through things. Running out of stuff that could be broke. I'm told you gotta run the glow plugs with these Kubota engines otherwise you can crank till you turn blue. I'm charging my batteries tonight so I should have some details on compression tomorrow. I'm told you should run two batteries for the glow plugs. Thank you guys for the support and tips. Looking forward to hearing this suker fire up!!!!

 

[Tazza]

Yes I will definetly need some tips when it comes to working with the injectors. As an update, I've freeded up the decompression lever and assembly. I dismantelled it and lubercated all the parts. It now works like it should. I've checked the rocker arms and checked to see if any valves were sticking. They are all free moving. I did notice that the injector pump had loose fittings at the base of the injector body. I pulled off all of the tues. I had to remove two of the caps and springs of the injector pump to gain access when removing the tubes. I tightened all the caps and made sure that the springs went back in straight and were not pinched. Tomorrow I'm going to perform a compression test. I'll probally try to pull the injectors when I do this. I ordered new glow plugs just for the hell of it. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the compression test comes out good. Then I'll move onto testing the injector pump and the injectors. Will need details on cleaning and inspecting those. But I'm starting to get through things. Running out of stuff that could be broke. I'm told you gotta run the glow plugs with these Kubota engines otherwise you can crank till you turn blue. I'm charging my batteries tonight so I should have some details on compression tomorrow. I'm told you should run two batteries for the glow plugs. Thank you guys for the support and tips. Looking forward to hearing this suker fire up!!!!

Ah, one battery is more than enough.
If glowing was the main issue, you would have white clouds coming from your exhaust.
Get the compression checked first, It should be over 350psi, 400+ is even better.
Just how far in did you go with the injector pump? you only removed the delivery valves, the spring and one way valve? Never go deeper than this, the innards are specially tuned so they all deliver the same amount of fuel.
Let me know how the compression test goes, i can then get you some images of an injector in pieces to hopefully get you further.
With glowing, i give my 743 with a V1702 about 20-30 seconds, it has always been a harder starter, the newer V2203's starts almost instantly, even before they glow.

 

[kohl_cytre]

Ah, one battery is more than enough.
If glowing was the main issue, you would have white clouds coming from your exhaust.
Get the compression checked first, It should be over 350psi, 400+ is even better.
Just how far in did you go with the injector pump? you only removed the delivery valves, the spring and one way valve? Never go deeper than this, the innards are specially tuned so they all deliver the same amount of fuel.
Let me know how the compression test goes, i can then get you some images of an injector in pieces to hopefully get you further.
With glowing, i give my 743 with a V1702 about 20-30 seconds, it has always been a harder starter, the newer V2203's starts almost instantly, even before they glow.

Well I just got done with the compression test. I disconnected the air intake so there would be no restriction on air flow. Put the throttle into full position and had to connect my pressure gauge through the glow plug ports. (did not have a large enough wrench handy to pull the injectors) THe results were not good. Cylinder 4 - 100psi, Cylinder 3 - 275psi, Cylinder 2 - 150psi, Cylinder 1 - 100psi. The valve cover wasn't tight when I took these readings but I don't think that would matter to much. Guess I'm going to be ordering a V2003 and do an engine swap out. Anyone ever done this on there machine?

 

[Tazza]

Well I just got done with the compression test. I disconnected the air intake so there would be no restriction on air flow. Put the throttle into full position and had to connect my pressure gauge through the glow plug ports. (did not have a large enough wrench handy to pull the injectors) THe results were not good. Cylinder 4 - 100psi, Cylinder 3 - 275psi, Cylinder 2 - 150psi, Cylinder 1 - 100psi. The valve cover wasn't tight when I took these readings but I don't think that would matter to much. Guess I'm going to be ordering a V2003 and do an engine swap out. Anyone ever done this on there machine?

Those readings are rather poor....
The engine swap will be just a drop in.
I'd start by pulling the head, see what they head/valves are like. Check the bores too.
One thing you can also try, is to do the comression test again, give each cylinder a few squirts of oil from an oiling can. See if the compression gets any better. This is called a wet test, it will tell you if the rings are worn.

 

[kohl_cytre]

Those readings are rather poor....
The engine swap will be just a drop in.
I'd start by pulling the head, see what they head/valves are like. Check the bores too.
One thing you can also try, is to do the comression test again, give each cylinder a few squirts of oil from an oiling can. See if the compression gets any better. This is called a wet test, it will tell you if the rings are worn.

The V2203 that I will be getting the guy said I have to reuse my v1902 bell housing. Does anyone have expierence with this and know why the old bell housing has to be used on the new motor?

 

[kohl_cytre]

The V2203 that I will be getting the guy said I have to reuse my v1902 bell housing. Does anyone have expierence with this and know why the old bell housing has to be used on the new motor?

Just to clarify the bell housing question, on my machine the bell housing does not physically attach to anything and the universal drive plate bolts straight to the flywheel via the 6 holes on the flywheel. Does that make sence to anyone? Not understanding why you need to reuse the old bell housing. I'm scratching my head...

 

[Tazza]

Just to clarify the bell housing question, on my machine the bell housing does not physically attach to anything and the universal drive plate bolts straight to the flywheel via the 6 holes on the flywheel. Does that make sence to anyone? Not understanding why you need to reuse the old bell housing. I'm scratching my head...

The bell housing should just bolt to your existing engine, it should just come off and go to the other one. The reason it's needed would be how the pump mounts to the engine i guess, i'm pretty sure the bolt holes are the same on these engines. The only possible difference is the sump. Old reefer engines have a weird sump, you just take your old one off, clean and install it to the replacement engine.

 

[kohl_cytre]

The bell housing should just bolt to your existing engine, it should just come off and go to the other one. The reason it's needed would be how the pump mounts to the engine i guess, i'm pretty sure the bolt holes are the same on these engines. The only possible difference is the sump. Old reefer engines have a weird sump, you just take your old one off, clean and install it to the replacement engine.

It's weird though, my bellhousing on my Scat Trak does not actually bolt to anything. It just sits there with the hydro pump universal joint bolting straight to the flywheel. I'll let everyone know when I get the new V2203. Just as reference what I have learned is the rear oil seal on the V2203 is larger then the V1902. So if anyone in the future is going to do a swap out they have to enlarge the V1902 bell housing oil sealhole on the V1902 bell housing to match the V2203 rear oil seal. And you have to redrill the bell housing mounting holes to match the V2203 mounting holes. You also have to drill a hole in the side of the V2203 for the oil dip stick. The V2203 has the oil dip stick in the oil pan and you have to reuse the V1902 oil pan on the V2203. Once I do the swap out and anyone needs help let me know. I'll take pictures too and document it on here for everyones reference in the future.

 

[Bearscratch]

It's weird though, my bellhousing on my Scat Trak does not actually bolt to anything. It just sits there with the hydro pump universal joint bolting straight to the flywheel. I'll let everyone know when I get the new V2203. Just as reference what I have learned is the rear oil seal on the V2203 is larger then the V1902. So if anyone in the future is going to do a swap out they have to enlarge the V1902 bell housing oil sealhole on the V1902 bell housing to match the V2203 rear oil seal. And you have to redrill the bell housing mounting holes to match the V2203 mounting holes. You also have to drill a hole in the side of the V2203 for the oil dip stick. The V2203 has the oil dip stick in the oil pan and you have to reuse the V1902 oil pan on the V2203. Once I do the swap out and anyone needs help let me know. I'll take pictures too and document it on here for everyones reference in the future.

I just encountered the exact same issue doing the same swap on my New Holland L555. I sent an email to the original poster here on this, but if anyone has any tips on enlarging the hole in the bell housing please throw me some advice here. It has to be made about 1/4 inch bigger all the way around and I'm thinking maybe an angle grinder, but if anyone else has any ideas or experience here I'd love to hear them.

 

[kohl_cytre]

I just encountered the exact same issue doing the same swap on my New Holland L555. I sent an email to the original poster here on this, but if anyone has any tips on enlarging the hole in the bell housing please throw me some advice here. It has to be made about 1/4 inch bigger all the way around and I'm thinking maybe an angle grinder, but if anyone else has any ideas or experience here I'd love to hear them.

I sent you an email, hope it helps.