I have a 610 skid steer and I am having a HELLUVA time getting the hydraulic filter canister loosened. I have tried everything....from below and from above, somebody put a ton of Schwarzenegger on it the last time they tightened it. Does anyone have any ideas? I am not a weak man and I can't get it to budge. Please help!
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have you tried a real large set of channel locks? as a last resort I have used a large rod and pounded it threw the filter and spun it off that way with mixed results. there is always a punch and hammer along the mating surfaces just try to take it easy on the filter housing as you do it. Once you get it to move you got it.
The hydraulic filter on a 610 is a filter element inside a large canister, so that rules out the screwdriver/hammer option. Only the filter element is replaced. There are two seals, one on each end of the canister. A large retaining bolt goes through the canister and filter. Is it possible to remove the filter housing from the system and put it on the bench? What material is the filter housing? I'm thinking of putting some heat on it. Other ideas? 2x4 against the side and hit with a hammer to work it loose?
flyerdan
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If you can get on it with a 6 point impact socket and an impact gun, start with a low setting and ramp up gradually; hopefully it will loosen up with perseverance.
If you look at the exploded diagram on the bobcat parts site, you'll see that the center pipe threaded section is a lot bigger than the hex bolster to remove it, so care is needed not to damage it.
So it sounds like I will need to remove it out of the bobcat to get an impact socket on it. Is there an aftermarket hydraulic oil filter assembly that I could put in the bobcat if I end up damaging this assembly? I'm thinking of something like this: https://m.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200675166_200675166 Thoughts?
flyerdan
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The Northern one might work, it would depend on what fittings you have going into the existing one.
If clearance is an issue and you can't access it with a rattle gun, you might be able to use a regular air hammer and a socket and breaker bar, or even a wrench if space is really tight. Weld a little chunk on angle iron onto a .401" chisel (so the wrench or breaker bar can pocket into it) and give it a few bursts as low as you can get on it while holding pressure. Once it starts to move it should come the rest of the way fairly easy. It could be a galled thread, or a stuck rubber gasket keeping it from turning those critical first few degrees.
flyerdan, I feel like I need a visual picture for what you are describing........you lost me at .401" chisel pocket into wrench or breaker bar. Thanks! Chris
I was thinking would it be easier to disconnect the hoses in and out and remove the bolts that hold the housing to the machine so you could work on it in a open area out of the machine? If heat was necessary to remove the housing bolt most of the oil would be drained out so heating would be easier. earlier when I responded I was thinking you had a canister filter not a cartridge filter.
foton, This is actually my next plan of attack. I'm going to remove the battery and alternator to get down to the canister and remove the whole assembly so I can work on it on the bench. The oil is drained out of the system so I won't be making a mess. And I can clean it up while I'm at it. Chris
flyerdan
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Not real good because I don't want to spend a lot of time searching for the perfect images and photoshopping, but hopefully you'll get the ideal...
The .041" chisel is standard for air hammers, you can get an air hammer at Harbor Freight for around $8 and it has about 5 chisels with it. Sticking a little chunk of angle on the end (ideally of one that is already broke or dulled) so a wrench or breaker bar won't slip out while applying force. Adding the angle iron rather than just grinding a relief in the chisel keeps it from marring up the wrench and puts more energy into the removal method.
Now I understand....thank you. I ended up removing the entire subassembly and putting it on my bench. I hit it with the impact wrench for a while, that rattled it enough that when I put my breaker bar on it, it came right out. The filter element has frozen water in it. No telling the last time this hydraulic oil was flushed out. Buying replacement low pressure hoses from motion and flow today and ordered the spring that was missing that puts pressure on the backup ring ( wasn't in there)
Since I have hydraulic filter housing out, I figure this is a good opportunity to reseal all the fittings. Thinking about taking the fittings off, cleaning them up and reinstalling with a quality thread sealer. Thoughts?
If there is water in there look at your side cover gaskets I would think it got in from there, that is if the vent- fill caps were on.
foton, The vent caps are in. Can they go bad? I will be taking the side covers off to change the clutches, so I will check the gaskets at that point. Are the side covers sealed with a large gasket? Or is it sealed with a silicone sealer like permatex? Thank you, Chris
One thing led to another and I had to pull the control valve assembly to free up the auxiliary hydraulics. I put everything back together and nothing actuates. I do have a leak and it looks like it is coming from one of the connections near the filter housing. If the hydraulics aren't working, what is the best way to work on those connections without loosing a lot of oil? Just put 18 gallons of fresh oil in the skid, don't want to drain it all out to start over. Any ideas? Maybe just tighten everything up? The manual says to raise the front of the skid 6" when replacing the filter.... Anything helps, Chris
I would suggest to loosen things up and let the trapped air out.
Status update: Without hydraulics I jacked up the front of the skid and put 6" blocks under the wheels. I disassembled from the top (seat, seat pan, alternator, battery, low pressure return hose) and found that the tapered fitting on the outlet side of the filter base was still loose (WTH). So I tightened it back up and fired it up. It worked!! (Duh!) I ran the hydraulics through their entire stroke and things are getting better. I still have a small amount of jumpiness/vibration in the hydraulics when moving, but at least now it's not intermittent like it was before. It was ~5F yesterday when I was running the skid, so I'm not surprised that it was having some smoothness issues. I did find one small leak that I will have to troubleshoot. But at least she is running better than before. Thanks all.
