Repower 542B

[bludorbronc]

Hi I picked up an old 542B needed a motor,it had a 1.1 liter Ford industrial 4 cyl.,25 horse. Could not find one for a good price so I went looking.I thought 4 cyl. can't be to hard to replace it.Toyota came to mind,lots around,run forever and a friend had one I could have.First I did was strip out old stuff, original used a motor plate to mount the back of the block and the flywheel held the drive for the pump so I thought if I could use the stock flwheel it would save alot of modifying. It used the same bolt pattern as the toyota flywheel just had to open the center crank hole to fit toyota crank. So now I had Toyota motor,Ford flywheel and pump drive. But when I bolted the flywheel up tight it hit the block so i got 2 flywheel shims.next I had a piece of quater inch plate bent like the stock one. I measured out opening for flywheel and opening for Toyota starter,took plate to friends and used plasma cutter with tool I made to cut circles and cut out holes. I had to make sure center line of crank to mounting surface was correct so drive would be level. Then I drilled holes to bolt plate to block, I set motor in and hooked up drive, while hanging on hoist keeping it level with machine I made front stand mounts. Next I looked at the Toyota starter,I needed to space it back aways but I needed a pattern for the starter,with the motor was an engine plate that goes between the block and bell housing.There was my pattern.I cut 4 pieces of 3/16 plate and drilled the bolt holes and used a hole saw for the large hole, the hole saw was a little big so I cut the pattern out of the block plate and aligned the up and welded them together then I drilled the pattern in the block mounting plate and now the starter is installed. With motor now in the bobcat next I went to wiring,I made a mount so I cold use stock Ford alternator,for temp I used the stock Toyota sending unit,I unscrewed it from the thermotat housing and knocked out the ceramic center and drilled it out and threaded it so i could use stock Ford sender screwed into Toyota part. To use the Ford oil pressure sender,I use a brake master cylinder adapter that one end srewed into the block and stock Ford screwed into it. Now the stock loom was connected to all stock senders. but I had to get the Toyota ignition connected.There is 3 wires and I didn't know what was what so a little calling and I found out hooking brown and yellow wires to 12 volts gave me fire. So wiring is done.Now I am at the next stage, getting it to mount the cooling shroud,am going to have to modify metal radiator clean out door. That's it for now.

 

[OldMachinist]

I hope the Toyota engine you selected was for an industrial application with a governor. Without a governor the engine will not maintain a constant speed under load.

 

[bludorbronc]

I hope the Toyota engine you selected was for an industrial application with a governor. Without a governor the engine will not maintain a constant speed under load.

I am using a 1980 20R 90 horse, 2.2 liter truck engine, compared to the 25 horse, 1.1 liter industrial engine, I hope it does a good job. I think the machine is rated at 825 lbs lift,is it limited by hydro pump or tail end weight for counter balance,new motor is alot heavier.I have my doubts on cooling new motor with stock system.

 

[bludorbronc]

I am using a 1980 20R 90 horse, 2.2 liter truck engine, compared to the 25 horse, 1.1 liter industrial engine, I hope it does a good job. I think the machine is rated at 825 lbs lift,is it limited by hydro pump or tail end weight for counter balance,new motor is alot heavier.I have my doubts on cooling new motor with stock system.

Well its done. Was out pushing snow last nite. The stock radiator seems to be doing fine. Still have to extend the tailgate out to cover engine and make fan belt protection cover. Made adaptor so I can run stock air filter. Needs some exhaust work. Dont know how it will do on fuel. The hydraulics seem to have a slight wine, Im using plane hydraulic oil. It wants to creep so Ive got to learn how to set controls. Now Im thinking will a lawn mower mounted snow blower work on a bobcat or is there a better way to blow snow. Thanks

 

[skidsteer.ca]

Well its done. Was out pushing snow last nite. The stock radiator seems to be doing fine. Still have to extend the tailgate out to cover engine and make fan belt protection cover. Made adaptor so I can run stock air filter. Needs some exhaust work. Dont know how it will do on fuel. The hydraulics seem to have a slight wine, Im using plane hydraulic oil. It wants to creep so Ive got to learn how to set controls. Now Im thinking will a lawn mower mounted snow blower work on a bobcat or is there a better way to blow snow. Thanks

Hope ya took us some pics for us.
The heat my not be that big of issue, you can only use so much power, but you might want to be careful pushing hard in the summer months, you motor is not going to back down. As for snow blowing these machines have a pretty small hydrauli pump and lower pressure compared to more modern units. You might be better off with a blower that has its own engine. Or with all that power you could ad a second pump some place and high flow it
Ken

 

[Tstithem]

Hi I picked up an old 542B needed a motor,it had a 1.1 liter Ford industrial 4 cyl.,25 horse. Could not find one for a good price so I went looking.I thought 4 cyl. can't be to hard to replace it.Toyota came to mind,lots around,run forever and a friend had one I could have.First I did was strip out old stuff, original used a motor plate to mount the back of the block and the flywheel held the drive for the pump so I thought if I could use the stock flwheel it would save alot of modifying. It used the same bolt pattern as the toyota flywheel just had to open the center crank hole to fit toyota crank. So now I had Toyota motor,Ford flywheel and pump drive. But when I bolted the flywheel up tight it hit the block so i got 2 flywheel shims.next I had a piece of quater inch plate bent like the stock one. I measured out opening for flywheel and opening for Toyota starter,took plate to friends and used plasma cutter with tool I made to cut circles and cut out holes. I had to make sure center line of crank to mounting surface was correct so drive would be level. Then I drilled holes to bolt plate to block, I set motor in and hooked up drive, while hanging on hoist keeping it level with machine I made front stand mounts. Next I looked at the Toyota starter,I needed to space it back aways but I needed a pattern for the starter,with the motor was an engine plate that goes between the block and bell housing.There was my pattern.I cut 4 pieces of 3/16 plate and drilled the bolt holes and used a hole saw for the large hole, the hole saw was a little big so I cut the pattern out of the block plate and aligned the up and welded them together then I drilled the pattern in the block mounting plate and now the starter is installed. With motor now in the bobcat next I went to wiring,I made a mount so I cold use stock Ford alternator,for temp I used the stock Toyota sending unit,I unscrewed it from the thermotat housing and knocked out the ceramic center and drilled it out and threaded it so i could use stock Ford sender screwed into Toyota part. To use the Ford oil pressure sender,I use a brake master cylinder adapter that one end srewed into the block and stock Ford screwed into it. Now the stock loom was connected to all stock senders. but I had to get the Toyota ignition connected.There is 3 wires and I didn't know what was what so a little calling and I found out hooking brown and yellow wires to 12 volts gave me fire. So wiring is done.Now I am at the next stage, getting it to mount the cooling shroud,am going to have to modify metal radiator clean out door. That's it for now.

How did you remove the engine from the hydraulic pump. I believe I have everything in hooked and bolted but can get it to pull out. Does it bolt to the pump?

 

[brdgbldr]

How did you remove the engine from the hydraulic pump. I believe I have everything in hooked and bolted but can get it to pull out. Does it bolt to the pump?

Take a look at the parts catalog to make sure have removed all of the mounting bolts.

Bobcat Parts Catalog - Find Diagrams for Your Equipment - Bobcat Company

Locate all parts and component information about your Bobcat equipment with detailed visual diagrams and illustrations with parts numbers and add to your list.

partscatalog.bobcat.com

The engine is attached to the pump with a u-joint but there are two different ways depending on your serial number.

 

[oiu789]

The splines on the u joint could be rusted to the pump shaft. Due to not being greased. The u joint assembly is hard to get to and grease and it will rust up due to not being greased. Make sure all the bolts holding the eng in are removed then start looking at the u joint. You can unbolt the u joint but it is difficult.

 

[flat sk]

The splines on the u joint could be rusted to the pump shaft. Due to not being greased. The u joint assembly is hard to get to and grease and it will rust up due to not being greased. Make sure all the bolts holding the eng in are removed then start looking at the u joint. You can unbolt the u joint but it is difficult.

I removed my 4G33 from a 642B this winter. After many days and many failed attempts to uncouple the U joint from the pump splines. what ended up working was a tensioned ratchet strap pulling on the motor and a air chisel wedged between the u joint and pump mount. Eventually jumped right off. Like I said. It was days of failed attempts and head scratching. All while laying in an awkward prone position blindly feeling for the right spot.( anyone who's been there can attest to how unenjoyable it can be) haha

 

[JoeCamel]

The splines on the u joint could be rusted to the pump shaft. Due to not being greased. The u joint assembly is hard to get to and grease and it will rust up due to not being greased. Make sure all the bolts holding the eng in are removed then start looking at the u joint. You can unbolt the u joint but it is difficult.

I've got a Case 60xt that I had to change the belt pulley and the splines are rusted, I was able to get it done but if the pump ever has to come off I will have to cut the adapter and replace it. Tried a good three jaw puller under tension with an air hammer and heat after soaking a few days in acetone/atf but no give at all, I hope I can get a sawzall in there

 

[oiu789]

How did you remove the engine from the hydraulic pump. I believe I have everything in hooked and bolted but can get it to pull out. Does it bolt to the pump?

Did you find what was holding the engine in? If so what was the issues? Please respond so others may learn if they have similar issues. That"s part of what a forum is sharing info, problems and fixes!