Flail mower extension

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Mustang Guy

Mustang Guy

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Ah, so you really have nothing to add except opinion. Lots of typing though, good on ya.
Really bad analogy, kinda what strength training/ muscle toning is all about….."you take a 10 lb weight hold it next to your chest, and then try same thing only with your arm fully extended, suddenly the weight feels a lot more and the longer you hold it out the weaker your arm will get, do it OFTEN and the shorter the amount of time, before your arm gets weaker"
Yeah. If my arms were steel beams, and my muscles were hydraulic cylinders, I could rep weights all day long and feel nothing. Just keep an eye on my oil temp. Hahaha.

No disrespect intended.
 
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Mustang Guy

Mustang Guy

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Well lookie what I got! They did all the engineering and fab work for me. Going to use a conventional brush hog.
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ddbackhoe

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Well lookie what I got! They did all the engineering and fab work for me. Going to use a conventional brush hog.
Why the switch to a bush hog? I am tracking a different take on those. Seems in Europe you can get a chain carrier instead of blades. The grade 80 chains are supposed to be better than blades. The 3 pt chain suspension should give a little more float on uneven ground.
 

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MX727

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I will tell you to be careful with that three point hitch. Unlike a tractor, the arms are fixed into position which means if you hit something you will bend the plate where the arms bolt up or the arms themselves.

At that point, it becomes real hard to slide the arms for different equipment. I'd tend to recommend that people just buy a cutter that is made to mount to the skid steer plate. The hassle factor is much lower over time.
 
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Mustang Guy

Mustang Guy

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Why the switch to a bush hog? I am tracking a different take on those. Seems in Europe you can get a chain carrier instead of blades. The grade 80 chains are supposed to be better than blades. The 3 pt chain suspension should give a little more float on uneven ground.
I'm cutting over the edge of a bank between trees, so the rotary cutter (slasher/bush hog) gives me extra reach.
The Aussies use chains too, but I've yet to see what kind of cut they give. I really should have a flail mower on my excavator but there are no auxiliary circuits on it.
 
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Mustang Guy

Mustang Guy

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I will tell you to be careful with that three point hitch. Unlike a tractor, the arms are fixed into position which means if you hit something you will bend the plate where the arms bolt up or the arms themselves.

At that point, it becomes real hard to slide the arms for different equipment. I'd tend to recommend that people just buy a cutter that is made to mount to the skid steer plate. The hassle factor is much lower over time.
I need the forward reach for over-the-bank cutting. Not going to be traveling and cutting at the same time. Should be ok.
 

ddbackhoe

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I'm cutting over the edge of a bank between trees, so the rotary cutter (slasher/bush hog) gives me extra reach.
The Aussies use chains too, but I've yet to see what kind of cut they give. I really should have a flail mower on my excavator but there are no auxiliary circuits on it.
Why this setup vs a ss hydraulic brush cutter? Did you call Newton to ask what'll happen when you hang it over the edge? I need all your personal info so I can help your estate sue the various manufacturers for not placing warning labels on this combination of stuff.

1692218697228.png
This combination of attachments is hazardous to life and limb

🤗
 
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Mustang Guy

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1) A hydraulic rotary cutter is right up against the front of the machine, hence no margin for error when cutting over a bank.
1a) A rotary cutter has at least a 3 foot overreach compared to a flail mower. Again, no traveling and cutting simultaneously.

2) The phone call with Newton was perfect. It was very perfect. He told me that "No matter where you go the front wheels will always be the fulcrum."
 
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Mustang Guy

Mustang Guy

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Well, since you don't have a door, when you angle that cutter over the bank, you will be shooting debris right at your head and body.
Yep, can't argue with that. That's why I'll fab up a raised 3/4" expanded metal door. Pics soon (I hope). Actually shouldn't be too bad with the chain flap across the back.
 

Coke-in-MN

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Noticed you are running 2 lines to hydraulic motor and no case drain line - so you will need a overrunning clutch on driveshaft as when shutting off hydraulic flow - centrifugal rotation of the cutter will create a problem of oil trapped in motor with no place to go
 
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Mustang Guy

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Noticed you are running 2 lines to hydraulic motor and no case drain line - so you will need a overrunning clutch on driveshaft as when shutting off hydraulic flow - centrifugal rotation of the cutter will create a problem of oil trapped in motor with no place to go
i asked about that, and no case drain required on this lo-flow gear motor, and there is a relief valve hidden behind the top link mounting. The relief pops and the oil just recircs.
 
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Coke-in-MN

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Was wondering as I was thinking of using low flow on a rotary attachment but was told without case drain of some type it would destroy seals in drive motor . I know on a tractor PTO driven unit used on older tractors rotary motion would drive tractor forward without a overrunning clutch used . So was thinking of using one of those in my setup .
 
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Mustang Guy

Mustang Guy

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Was wondering as I was thinking of using low flow on a rotary attachment but was told without case drain of some type it would destroy seals in drive motor . I know on a tractor PTO driven unit used on older tractors rotary motion would drive tractor forward without a overrunning clutch used . So was thinking of using one of those in my setup .
It totally depends on the type of motor used. Piston types definitely need a drain. Gear and Gerotor types not mandatory (I'm told).
A relief valve between supply and return takes care of that overrunning situation. All the hydraulic units I've seen have that.
 

ddbackhoe

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Was wondering as I was thinking of using low flow on a rotary attachment but was told without case drain of some type it would destroy seals in drive motor . I know on a tractor PTO driven unit used on older tractors rotary motion would drive tractor forward without a overrunning clutch used . So was thinking of using one of those in my setup .
a crossover relief valve will act similar to your over running clutch. You may still have a spin down cycle but it wont hurt the seals or motor.
 

vrenifossi

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Noticed you are running 2 lines to hydraulic motor and no case drain line - so you will need a overrunning clutch on driveshaft as when shutting off hydraulic flow - centrifugal rotation of the cutter will create a problem of oil trapped in motor with no place to go
Hi,
while seraching the forum for a thread that could fit my problem I stepped over your comment and it may actually be related to my problem.

Since I am new to this forum I want to shortly introduce myself. I am a biologist and originally from Gemany but I worked and lived for the last 20+ years in Chilean Patagonia. After I have lost my job as a researcher on a field station during pandemic I started a landscaping and arborist business. So I bought some machinery, among others a Taian DY1150 mini-loader (it's no skid steer, but I hope you will not kick me out because of this). This loader is basically a chinese copy of an Avant, Multione or bobcat loader, with some restrictions in quality and some minor design flaws in comparison to the competition. But I got it for a third of what a European or American machine would have costed me and that was all I could afford. It's not the best you can get on the market, but it does the job and I am starting to like it (for the price). I also bought attachments from China. Besides the corrosion problem, these attachments do the job almost as good as non-chinese brands would do, but for much less money (since I do not have the comparison at least I believe so) .

Today I tried a flail mower for the first time on a property that has been overgrown by blackberry. The flailmower starts rotation for almost a minute until it suddenly makes a creeching sound and stops, as if it would be blocked. If I switch off the hydraulic flow to the attachment and try to start it again inmediately it would not. But if I switch it off and wait a minute I can start it again. And again it would run for almost a minute until it suddenly stops again. Same thing in forward and reverse...I am not stupid with machines, but I definitely have no mechanic background, very poor knowledge on hydraulics and I am learning by doing. But this time I am a puzzled and I do not want to try too often beacuse I do not want to damage nothing....
One thing is that this is the first attachment that I have that has a case drain hose and I have to admit that I am not sure which connector at my loader actually is the case drain connector (if it has one at all...). I have three connectors at my machine so I always supposed that one is the case drain. Since I had to install the couplers myself I installed same size couplers on all three outlets. The manual for this chinese machine is very poor and no mentioning of a case drain, so I could not figure out for sure which function has each of the outlets
So now my questions:
How could I find out if my machine has a case drain and if so which of the connectors actually is the case drain?
What could be the problem with my flail mower?

If you had a helpfull answer I would be very glad!

Cheers,
Fossi
 

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