Changing injectors in a bobcats250 with kubota v3300-t

[bobcat250]

How do I go about removing the injectors and are there any readjustments to valves or anything after I am done?? I tried finding an engine parts breakdown diagram on the internet without any help. Im also trying to find the torque specs for the valve cover and intake along with the tightening sequence. Any help would be great thanks.

 

[Fishfiles]

I got a 250 manuel , but won't be around it till Monday evening , it was pretty expensive at $90 a few years back and already obsolete , there are no adjustmets needed after changing injectors , and it is just a matter of unscrewing them from the head , I persoanlly don't torque valve covers or manifolds , I guess I feel comfortable of knowing when to stop , I do usually torque the injectors , as far as sequence , always start in the middle and work out ------------why are you changing the injectors

 

[bobcat250]

I got a 250 manuel , but won't be around it till Monday evening , it was pretty expensive at $90 a few years back and already obsolete , there are no adjustmets needed after changing injectors , and it is just a matter of unscrewing them from the head , I persoanlly don't torque valve covers or manifolds , I guess I feel comfortable of knowing when to stop , I do usually torque the injectors , as far as sequence , always start in the middle and work out ------------why are you changing the injectors

I need to remove the injectors and suck any water/fuel off of the top of the pistons. My father decided to scrape some ice off of his pond with it and broke throught the ice. The engine was under water. He did shut the engine down before it went under though. Its a flippen mess now. I also am not sure where the computers are located at. Im guessing I will have to change that as well. any help is greatly appreciated.

 

[Tazza]

I need to remove the injectors and suck any water/fuel off of the top of the pistons. My father decided to scrape some ice off of his pond with it and broke throught the ice. The engine was under water. He did shut the engine down before it went under though. Its a flippen mess now. I also am not sure where the computers are located at. Im guessing I will have to change that as well. any help is greatly appreciated.

You don't need to pull the injectors, just the glow plugs. Pull them out and spin it over to get the water out. Even a squirt of WD40 wouldn't go a stray then spin it over again.
The thing i'd be most concerned about is the turbo, ensure its DRY you don't want to start up and have it pull its self apart. Also the hydraulic oil may have water in it, sorry to say it but i see many problems coming up.....
The computer should be fully sealed so that hopefully will be ok, your dash, not so much it may need replacing too.
Do keep us informed!

 

[Fishfiles]

You don't need to pull the injectors, just the glow plugs. Pull them out and spin it over to get the water out. Even a squirt of WD40 wouldn't go a stray then spin it over again.
The thing i'd be most concerned about is the turbo, ensure its DRY you don't want to start up and have it pull its self apart. Also the hydraulic oil may have water in it, sorry to say it but i see many problems coming up.....
The computer should be fully sealed so that hopefully will be ok, your dash, not so much it may need replacing too.
Do keep us informed!

Wow , water submersion is kinda my speciality after Hurricane Katrina hosed us good , yeah the controller will most probally be ok , it's sealed pretty good , the length of time under water and how fast you disconnect the battery has a lot to do with how bad the wiring problems will be , problem spots are the back the fuse box , alternator and starter solinoid wiring , you didn't mention T or S series , S series the chain case oil is something to address , good luck --don't have your head over the glow plug holes when you spin it over to check for water

 

[bobcat250]

Wow , water submersion is kinda my speciality after Hurricane Katrina hosed us good , yeah the controller will most probally be ok , it's sealed pretty good , the length of time under water and how fast you disconnect the battery has a lot to do with how bad the wiring problems will be , problem spots are the back the fuse box , alternator and starter solinoid wiring , you didn't mention T or S series , S series the chain case oil is something to address , good luck --don't have your head over the glow plug holes when you spin it over to check for water

I didnt catch the reply on the glow plugs in time and removed the injectors. I just left them all connected on the rail and unscrewed the hold downs. I did see that there was one bad o-ring on an injector anyway. Im going to use my manual vaccume suction pump with a little hose to make sure all the water is off of the pistons. I will need to know the torque on those hold down nuts if anyone has it. its been in a heated garage with fans blowing on it ever since. It was in the water for about a half hour and the battery was unhooked about 45 min after it went in the water. the water level was just below the hand controllers iin the cab, but it was at an angle and the engine was completely under. I will be able to get filters and oil this week and reassemble. I really hope it is ok since the machine is only 2yrs old. Ooh, I stuck the shop vac onto the turbo inlet right away since it had water in it so hopefully it is ok. I also sucked all of the water out of the head with the shop vac. He did say that he shut the engine down before it went down so hopefully its ok. I will also need torque on intake bolts and valve cover bolts if anyone has them. thanks for all of your help so far.

 

[Tazza]

I didnt catch the reply on the glow plugs in time and removed the injectors. I just left them all connected on the rail and unscrewed the hold downs. I did see that there was one bad o-ring on an injector anyway. Im going to use my manual vaccume suction pump with a little hose to make sure all the water is off of the pistons. I will need to know the torque on those hold down nuts if anyone has it. its been in a heated garage with fans blowing on it ever since. It was in the water for about a half hour and the battery was unhooked about 45 min after it went in the water. the water level was just below the hand controllers iin the cab, but it was at an angle and the engine was completely under. I will be able to get filters and oil this week and reassemble. I really hope it is ok since the machine is only 2yrs old. Ooh, I stuck the shop vac onto the turbo inlet right away since it had water in it so hopefully it is ok. I also sucked all of the water out of the head with the shop vac. He did say that he shut the engine down before it went down so hopefully its ok. I will also need torque on intake bolts and valve cover bolts if anyone has them. thanks for all of your help so far.

I wouldn't bother using a vacuum to get ALL the water from around the pistons (i'm assuming you want to pull a vacuum to evaporate the water), just WD or even oil and spin it over will be enough. For that amount of water you won't get any pitting of the head from water detonation. I don't have bolt torques sorry, but as long as you don't pull the head pull them down tight, that should be ok just don't over tighten anything.
As mentioned, your biggest issue will be the connectors, even in dry conditions the fuse box can corrode connecors, but these can be changed to inline fueses if they have gone bad.
Good luck!!

 

[bobcat250]

I wouldn't bother using a vacuum to get ALL the water from around the pistons (i'm assuming you want to pull a vacuum to evaporate the water), just WD or even oil and spin it over will be enough. For that amount of water you won't get any pitting of the head from water detonation. I don't have bolt torques sorry, but as long as you don't pull the head pull them down tight, that should be ok just don't over tighten anything.
As mentioned, your biggest issue will be the connectors, even in dry conditions the fuse box can corrode connecors, but these can be changed to inline fueses if they have gone bad.
Good luck!!

Hey, Thanks to everyone for all of your help. It is back up and running. The only thing that no longer works is the radio. Oh, and I must have had a brain fart or something cause our old one was the S-250 and this one was the A-300. I was hoping that we wouldn't have problems with the all wheel steer afterwords, but everything worked out ok.. Thanks again you guys are great.