Can't grade to save my life

[cmb7684]

I have the 743 and have a sand bucket on it. I have been filling my card with some black clay and want to top off with river sand. I have been trying to play with grading anf I suck at it. I'm told my machine may have a grade feature but I have no idea how to use it, engage it or even see if it is there. Can anyone tell me how to tell if my 743 has the grade feature? Can you also provide any tips or pointers on grading a yard flat but sloped to allow proper drainage. Is there a grading attachment for dummies (like myself)?

 

[skidsteer.ca]

Not a grading feature, but the bucket will hava a float position if you push the up down foot pedal fully forward it should stick in the float position.
As for getting it level, or sloped one way, it is a persistance thing. I like to take my tiller it to break it into fine material. Then rough it out with the bucket until its close.
Then a Harley aka power rake attachment is worth its weight in gold to finish the top. (beg borrow, rent or hire one) It will do what a crew of 20 with handrakes can and then a little more.
The tires in front of the attachment lengthen your wheelbase to help get the waves out. The rake part separates any stones, debris or clumps, grinds off the high spots and carryies loose fines and drops them in the low points. Criss cross it 2 or 3 times and its ready for seed.
Ken

 

[TriHonu]

Not a grading feature, but the bucket will hava a float position if you push the up down foot pedal fully forward it should stick in the float position.
As for getting it level, or sloped one way, it is a persistance thing. I like to take my tiller it to break it into fine material. Then rough it out with the bucket until its close.
Then a Harley aka power rake attachment is worth its weight in gold to finish the top. (beg borrow, rent or hire one) It will do what a crew of 20 with handrakes can and then a little more.
The tires in front of the attachment lengthen your wheelbase to help get the waves out. The rake part separates any stones, debris or clumps, grinds off the high spots and carryies loose fines and drops them in the low points. Criss cross it 2 or 3 times and its ready for seed.
Ken

Clay is tough to grade.
If the clay has any significant amount of moisture it sticks to itself and is difficult to control the cut. Since it is not granular, it does not "flow".
If it is dry, it can get quite hard. If you over work it, the clay will fluff, fill with air and you won't be able to control it.
Your best bet is to try and work it when it has a little moisture and will not quite hold together when you squeeze it in your hand. Also keep your bucket about half full when making a cut or back dragging. The extra weight on the cutting edge will make it easier to control. Make slight changes to the bucket angle as you make any cuts and ease it deeper or shallower as you continue through the cut. A sharp cutting edge on the bucket will also help. If your cutting edge is dull it will tend to ski on the clay and not penetrate.
You may want to pull some string lines and drive some grade stakes. Having a stake will help you keep track of how much you need to cut or fill will help you get to the grade you want.
I would rethink adding sand to a high clay soil. When dry, a high clay with sand mix can get extremely hard. The old saying still applies: "Add clay to sand, money in hand. Add sand to clay, throw money away." The best thing to add to clay is a lot of organic material and till it in. You can add a lot of sand and not make clay soil any better.

 

[robmon]

Not a grading feature, but the bucket will hava a float position if you push the up down foot pedal fully forward it should stick in the float position.
As for getting it level, or sloped one way, it is a persistance thing. I like to take my tiller it to break it into fine material. Then rough it out with the bucket until its close.
Then a Harley aka power rake attachment is worth its weight in gold to finish the top. (beg borrow, rent or hire one) It will do what a crew of 20 with handrakes can and then a little more.
The tires in front of the attachment lengthen your wheelbase to help get the waves out. The rake part separates any stones, debris or clumps, grinds off the high spots and carryies loose fines and drops them in the low points. Criss cross it 2 or 3 times and its ready for seed.
Ken

would a s130 drive a 6ft harley rake ok or is it too small??looking in to one second hand, what should i be looking out for regards problems or wearing parts, cheers

 

[skidsteer.ca]

would a s130 drive a 6ft harley rake ok or is it too small??looking in to one second hand, what should i be looking out for regards problems or wearing parts, cheers

So long as it can lift it it will be fine. Might be a big load to carry down a slope, but generaaly you just push it not carry it. Imo it is a workable combo.
Look at the teeth on the drum, of the lack of them, they wear down or get broke out from rocks. The newer units have carbide tipped teeth to wear much longer. Look at the bearings on each end of the roller for grease. Look at the chain case on the drive end for leaking oil and chain slack. Check any pins for grease and slop.
I use a 7 ft Erskine rake on a S150 and it does ok. It may be a bit heavier then the Harley conterpart as it has a floating linkage and flat proof tires. Best attachment I have ever bought.