Help Support SkidSteer Forum:
well, I am NO expert here, but for yrs the drive way to my hunting amp and another property I had, , I simply used a my skid steer smooth edged bucket to maintain things, one drive way was about 300 yards long and other only about 200 yrds long, so,
so, I coudl manage that without need for any special attachment
BUT after a few yrs of doing that,
I simply got rid of all the gravel and went to road millings(was able to get most for free)
they pack tighter , less up keep, over all than gravel is, WAY less issue's with snow plowing than gravel is!
so, before buying a tool for gravel, I'd look into replacing ti with something better!
and worth looking into IMO!
BUT still in , winter time plowing will still removes some milling's that will need replacing at times,
I keep a bunch of extra millings on hand just fior this!
but normal driving is way less up keep with millings over gravel! or even crushed stone!
However as for a tool/implement for gravel,
when I helped a friend build his driveway which was about 3/4 mile long, with gravel, we used a Skids steer grader attachment, and that was petty handy to to add pitch to things as wanted!, even used it to build base under gravel first, to get pitch to allow drainage under gravel , to help road last longer!
SO, I'd say a grader attachment would be the go to implement if you have a LOT of driveway to up keep or build with gravel or??
but again, all maybe comes down to how large your gravel drive is!
as the attachments(good one's) are not that cheap!
and also consider if you live in a snow belt or not
as if your plowing snow on gravel, its never ending game of rebuilding every spring time!
so, I coudl manage that without need for any special attachment
BUT after a few yrs of doing that,
I simply got rid of all the gravel and went to road millings(was able to get most for free)
they pack tighter , less up keep, over all than gravel is, WAY less issue's with snow plowing than gravel is!
so, before buying a tool for gravel, I'd look into replacing ti with something better!
and worth looking into IMO!
BUT still in , winter time plowing will still removes some milling's that will need replacing at times,
I keep a bunch of extra millings on hand just fior this!
but normal driving is way less up keep with millings over gravel! or even crushed stone!
However as for a tool/implement for gravel,
when I helped a friend build his driveway which was about 3/4 mile long, with gravel, we used a Skids steer grader attachment, and that was petty handy to to add pitch to things as wanted!, even used it to build base under gravel first, to get pitch to allow drainage under gravel , to help road last longer!
SO, I'd say a grader attachment would be the go to implement if you have a LOT of driveway to up keep or build with gravel or??
but again, all maybe comes down to how large your gravel drive is!
as the attachments(good one's) are not that cheap!
and also consider if you live in a snow belt or not
as if your plowing snow on gravel, its never ending game of rebuilding every spring time!
my gravel is packed down pretty good. use that as a base to spread milling on top of or would you rip gravel out and replace all with millings?
well if the gravel is TIGHT, then you can just add millings on top, pending the TYPE of millings,
they come in different shapes, pending how they were milled
double milled millings are best, there finer and pack the tightest
when you get into ruff cut millings, you end up with lots of big clumps and pieces, and they DON"T pack so tight
, so if you get fine or clean cut millings NO lumps, I would just layer on top of your gravel
again IF the gravel is TIGHT, as in it doesn't move when running it over or dragging a blade on it !
you want a firm base
but millings work GREAT at rural road ways and drive ways IMO
the more effort you put into them, the better results you get
as in layering and packing each layer, as to doing ONE thick layer and then packing!
millings will also, firm up over time
and there are many ways to make them even better
adding some diesel fuel on a sunny day, will make them STICK together and can be packed tighter then , almost like pavement when done!
large chunky millings, kind of suck though for making anything but a base layer, , unless your young and willing to pick the bigger pieces out! LOL
you really want fine or double ground millings for your top dressing! or when they first put on new teeth, ,a s they will be the best millings to use
if your friends with anyone that works on roadways, most know how to get them FREE or cheap, as long as the company doesn;t recycle things, as that is becoming the more popular thing to do with millings, a lot of environmentalist have issue's with re using millings for driveways
so you have to find a company that doesn;'t recycle to get them any more, little harder pending where your at, a some places will give them away, and well, like everything else any more,some drivers/workers these days will HOLD them and SELL them, due to they can get them for free, and know people will BUY them!
My last loads for double ground cost me $150 and 250, and this yr same guy wants 350$ claiming fuel costs made him raise prices!
and the kicker is, he is 3 miles from me, to haul them! and thinks he needs an extra 100 bucks for fuel for the 3 miles, even told me so !!
SO< I ain't buying them off him no more HAHA!
I an get em else where for less or free still at times!
but just to give you examples on prices!
craigslist and face book market place normally has guys selling them! or giving them away!
they come in different shapes, pending how they were milled
double milled millings are best, there finer and pack the tightest
when you get into ruff cut millings, you end up with lots of big clumps and pieces, and they DON"T pack so tight
, so if you get fine or clean cut millings NO lumps, I would just layer on top of your gravel
again IF the gravel is TIGHT, as in it doesn't move when running it over or dragging a blade on it !
you want a firm base
but millings work GREAT at rural road ways and drive ways IMO
the more effort you put into them, the better results you get
as in layering and packing each layer, as to doing ONE thick layer and then packing!
millings will also, firm up over time
and there are many ways to make them even better
adding some diesel fuel on a sunny day, will make them STICK together and can be packed tighter then , almost like pavement when done!
large chunky millings, kind of suck though for making anything but a base layer, , unless your young and willing to pick the bigger pieces out! LOL
you really want fine or double ground millings for your top dressing! or when they first put on new teeth, ,a s they will be the best millings to use
if your friends with anyone that works on roadways, most know how to get them FREE or cheap, as long as the company doesn;t recycle things, as that is becoming the more popular thing to do with millings, a lot of environmentalist have issue's with re using millings for driveways
so you have to find a company that doesn;'t recycle to get them any more, little harder pending where your at, a some places will give them away, and well, like everything else any more,some drivers/workers these days will HOLD them and SELL them, due to they can get them for free, and know people will BUY them!
My last loads for double ground cost me $150 and 250, and this yr same guy wants 350$ claiming fuel costs made him raise prices!
and the kicker is, he is 3 miles from me, to haul them! and thinks he needs an extra 100 bucks for fuel for the 3 miles, even told me so !!
SO< I ain't buying them off him no more HAHA!
I an get em else where for less or free still at times!
but just to give you examples on prices!
craigslist and face book market place normally has guys selling them! or giving them away!
Mustang Guy
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 12, 2016
- Messages
- 145
I use one of these gadgets. Puts a perfect crown on it too.
Nice! I would like to get something that allows me to angle my attachment like a grader or bucket. This thing in the link is pretty slick.
Power Tilt Tach | Bradco
Bradco Power Tilt Tach attachment gives you the capability to tilt your attachments with the universal quick attach on your skid steer!
www.skidsteersolutions.com
wings5j
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 7, 2008
- Messages
- 190
at my place I have 530 feet below the garage and then a large open area between the house and the shop that I maintain with 5/8s minus crushed rock. The technique I use is to put my bucket in float mode, angle the bucket a little and do all my grading in reverse. On the steep part of the driveway I always do this backing uphill so the machine doesn't tip or roll.
If I have to spread some fresh rock I try to spread it fairly thin and then grade from the near end to the far end a little at at a time, always trying to have smooth ground behind me.
Early on I considered a box blade but the method I described above works so well I have never added any driveway attachments to my collection.
Good luck. That rig above sure looks like fun.
If I have to spread some fresh rock I try to spread it fairly thin and then grade from the near end to the far end a little at at a time, always trying to have smooth ground behind me.
Early on I considered a box blade but the method I described above works so well I have never added any driveway attachments to my collection.
Good luck. That rig above sure looks like fun.
very nice and I am sure it does an e excellent job, and can make a crown what ever one wants
its similar to the one I used that my buddy had
but for the average home owner, the costs of things like this are way too high, you need to be making money with something like them IMO to justify buying!
or get really lucky finding a good used one for sale really cheap!
Blacksheep
Member
- Joined
- Aug 25, 2022
- Messages
- 5
My attachment is the simplest of all and works so well! Go to a tire store that repairs tractor tires and get the biggest rear tire you can find they are usuallly free! (this last time i found an 18x48". Take the blade of a saber or sawsall saw and sharpen it till its like a knife. Drill a hole in the sidewall just where the lugs begin to start and cut out both sides to remove the beads.....get 3 18" piesces of pipe and weld a big nut on each end....get six bolts and 12 washers to match. then push the centers together and bolt the first pipe at the midpoint with a washer on each side of the rubber the threads into the pipe.....at the 1/4 and 3/4 distance put in the other two pipes. Now add six foot of chain and a loup or clevis to catch the rear hitch on the skidsteer; Pull this rubber hotdog behind the machine and you will find it will pick up material inside the long loup and then drop it again as you pass over low spots.....works really well moving rock and gravel and dirt. Best part is its totally free except for the metal bits. Won't wear out in your lifetime and the two remaining rings you can flip upside down around your trees or flower beds for a edging that wont let weeds grow but won't damage the mower either. If going around existing trees you can't set it over cut the bead and the rubber like a puzzle piece and lay it down then put a small plate and two screws to lock it in place. try it you can use a car/pickup/lawn tractor, 4 wheeler anything with enough pull to move it and drag that road to perfection
post some pictures if you can, sounds very interesting
Mustang Guy
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 12, 2016
- Messages
- 145
I got very lucky. Got it from the second owner really cheap. Only problem is that the Trimble laser receivers are no longer supported since everyone has gone GEO and GPS, but it still works great. I can get 1/4" over 700' with my Topcon RL-H4C rotary laser.
Marcus67
Member
- Joined
- Aug 20, 2022
- Messages
- 5
Marcus67
Member
- Joined
- Aug 20, 2022
- Messages
- 5
Before I painted it.
Attachments
T-rustyfix
Active member
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2022
- Messages
- 31
A Picture is worth 1000 words!
Here are a couple photos of my homemade gravel road dresser. I hang it from chains attached to a support extending from the front of the skid steer. It rides up and down on the surface as it drags and smooths loose gravel. Because it rides in front, the operator can see and control what is happening. No hydraulics or electrics. It can be made to shift the gravel to either side and takes weights to increase the bite on either side. It really works.
