bobtach pins stuck!

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scsindust

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Sep 17, 2005
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Ok, this machine was never greased before I got it, and it became apparent when I took off the bucket to use the forks. I had to pound out the pins, and now they won't go back in. There are so frozen solid. They have been sitting in pb blaster for the past week, and I still can't move it with a long pipe. Any suggestions? My next hope was to heat the outer metal, but after that, I am at a lose. How much are new bobtach units?
 

bobbie-g

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Mar 15, 2004
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Bobcat > General Questions > 753 Bobcat bucket Quick attach pins Try looking up this old thread, same discussion. I think it was posted in 2005 sometime. ---Bob
 

skidsteer.ca

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Bobcat > General Questions > 753 Bobcat bucket Quick attach pins Try looking up this old thread, same discussion. I think it was posted in 2005 sometime. ---Bob
Have you tried pounding the pins back down with a drift directly on top of the wedge. If they come up, lube them and tap them down. Keep lubing and working them. You will see the dirt and rust coming out top and bottom.-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Or ------------Drive the roll pins out that hold the wedges to the spring and handle asembley. Remove the lever handle and spring asembly the drive the wedges the rest of the way out the top. Clean, lube and reinstall. If you where able to get them to come up, it should not be too tough too get them to work again. This is a common problem for guys who lose their grease gun.;) (actually they don't find the zerks down there) Regards Ken
 

Tazza

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Have you tried pounding the pins back down with a drift directly on top of the wedge. If they come up, lube them and tap them down. Keep lubing and working them. You will see the dirt and rust coming out top and bottom.-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Or ------------Drive the roll pins out that hold the wedges to the spring and handle asembley. Remove the lever handle and spring asembly the drive the wedges the rest of the way out the top. Clean, lube and reinstall. If you where able to get them to come up, it should not be too tough too get them to work again. This is a common problem for guys who lose their grease gun.;) (actually they don't find the zerks down there) Regards Ken
If all else fails, you can heat them, BUT if you do, you will need to replace the nylon bushes that the pins go through down the bottom. The heat will make short work of them.
There was a post on this last year, we said the same thing, LOTS of oil/grease and heat if needed. Just keep working them and they should eventually free up.
 

M700man

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Mar 26, 2006
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If all else fails, you can heat them, BUT if you do, you will need to replace the nylon bushes that the pins go through down the bottom. The heat will make short work of them.
There was a post on this last year, we said the same thing, LOTS of oil/grease and heat if needed. Just keep working them and they should eventually free up.
Before you give up and get the "red wrench" out, perhaps you might try carburetor cleaner, the cheapest you can find. I deal a lot with military trucks and old antique machinery that has been setting up, weathered, etc. and I have found this to be the best solution. Soak the pin, etc. with the cleaner and, as mentioned by others, try to tap/drive the pin back in. Vibration with a hammer/drift is VERY important as it of course allows the carb cleaner to penetrate deeper. You will have to work quickly as the carb cleaner will evaporate fast. But, with repeated attempts it should come on out. Keyword is "should" ! LOL. The carb cleaner WILL turn the rust to liquid almost immediately and I have freed up parts on old machinery that has been sitting outside for years. If this doesn't work, there is one more solution. Go to your local GM dealer, parts dept. and ask for GM penetrating oil. Comes in a spray can and I am told, that it is referred to as the "penetrating oil from Heaven". I've never used it, but some GM mechanics swear that it out performs anything including Kroil, that is on the market. It is alledged that it will free up anything, no matter how rusted/frozen. I have the part# filed away somewhere in this computer, so if you need it, let me know. Just my .02. Thanks, John
 

skidsteer.ca

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Before you give up and get the "red wrench" out, perhaps you might try carburetor cleaner, the cheapest you can find. I deal a lot with military trucks and old antique machinery that has been setting up, weathered, etc. and I have found this to be the best solution. Soak the pin, etc. with the cleaner and, as mentioned by others, try to tap/drive the pin back in. Vibration with a hammer/drift is VERY important as it of course allows the carb cleaner to penetrate deeper. You will have to work quickly as the carb cleaner will evaporate fast. But, with repeated attempts it should come on out. Keyword is "should" ! LOL. The carb cleaner WILL turn the rust to liquid almost immediately and I have freed up parts on old machinery that has been sitting outside for years. If this doesn't work, there is one more solution. Go to your local GM dealer, parts dept. and ask for GM penetrating oil. Comes in a spray can and I am told, that it is referred to as the "penetrating oil from Heaven". I've never used it, but some GM mechanics swear that it out performs anything including Kroil, that is on the market. It is alledged that it will free up anything, no matter how rusted/frozen. I have the part# filed away somewhere in this computer, so if you need it, let me know. Just my .02. Thanks, John
I think your 93 753 is new enough that is does not use nylon guides for the pins. If they are round (not square) then no plastic (based on my knowledge, for what its worth)(tho my 95 553 still has square and nylon slides) you can heat if needed, but you may soften the pin if you get it to hot. Just try to heat the "pipe" if you can, and I would try everytthing else first. Ken
 

scsindust

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I think your 93 753 is new enough that is does not use nylon guides for the pins. If they are round (not square) then no plastic (based on my knowledge, for what its worth)(tho my 95 553 still has square and nylon slides) you can heat if needed, but you may soften the pin if you get it to hot. Just try to heat the "pipe" if you can, and I would try everytthing else first. Ken
Well I got them loose. I have to say that the carb cleaner idea is great. I didn't have carb cleaner, but I had brakekleen, which still worked better than PB, fluid film, and WD40. I greased the crap out of the zerks, and pounded away. At this point, they are loose enough where you only need minor force to move them. No more hammers. You bet your butt I am going to keep them greased! I used a whole tube, and made sure the whole inside was coated and full. I was getting worried, because I have a landscape project coming up soon, and I would hate to tell the client, he'll have to wait until I can figure out how to fix teh bobcat so I can put the bucket on... Thanks again.
 
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