Bobcat T630, main engine pulley, hydraulic pump pulley, tensioner belt, starter issues, no start, grinding starter

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fordfairlane84

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I have a 2018 T630 with 1850 hours, I recently replaced the idler pulley, tensioner, and belt for the main drive from motor to hydraulic pump. The job seemed to go well, got the machine back running and used it a few days. The old pulley had nothing left in the bearing, and wore down the through bolt. So it was sloppy and needed replacing for some time but the machine was being run hard. There was however more chirping from the new belt and the engine began to shut down very hard, like if shutting the key down the motor slammed to a stop as if lots of friction. I checked multiple times for heat on any components and could not find source of rubbing.

After a long day of work, parked the machine, and in the morning, the starter made a terrible grinding noise. I immediately thought it was the starter, so I got the starter rebuilt. He said he replaced a bushing and the solenoid.

I installed the rebuilt starter and it fired up with some grinding. And same hard shutdown.

The machine only fired up two or three times with rebuilt starter and now it's back to heavy grinding and no start. The bendix hits about 1/2 the distance into the flywheel. It doesn't go all the way out. No start

I took the belt tension off and removed the belt from the motor and fired the machine with just the motor, and it fired right up and ran. The motor makes a high pitch metal on metal squeal, and the motor shuts down hard when shutting off.

I can spin the flywheel with a pry bar and it does have some audible friction as if something is binding.

I can also spin the hydraulic pump freely by hand.

Don't know if it's a starter, an engine, a hydraulic pump, or all of the above. It doesn't seem good.

I would so much appreciate your expertise and support!
 
I have a 2018 T630 with 1850 hours, I recently replaced the idler pulley, tensioner, and belt for the main drive from motor to hydraulic pump. The job seemed to go well, got the machine back running and used it a few days. The old pulley had nothing left in the bearing, and wore down the through bolt. So it was sloppy and needed replacing for some time but the machine was being run hard. There was however more chirping from the new belt and the engine began to shut down very hard, like if shutting the key down the motor slammed to a stop as if lots of friction. I checked multiple times for heat on any components and could not find source of rubbing.

After a long day of work, parked the machine, and in the morning, the starter made a terrible grinding noise. I immediately thought it was the starter, so I got the starter rebuilt. He said he replaced a bushing and the solenoid.

I installed the rebuilt starter and it fired up with some grinding. And same hard shutdown.

The machine only fired up two or three times with rebuilt starter and now it's back to heavy grinding and no start. The bendix hits about 1/2 the distance into the flywheel. It doesn't go all the way out. No start

I took the belt tension off and removed the belt from the motor and fired the machine with just the motor, and it fired right up and ran. The motor makes a high pitch metal on metal squeal, and the motor shuts down hard when shutting off.

I can spin the flywheel with a pry bar and it does have some audible friction as if something is binding.

I can also spin the hydraulic pump freely by hand.

Don't know if it's a starter, an engine, a hydraulic pump, or all of the above. It doesn't seem good.

I would so much appreciate your expertise and support!
Can you give me your serial?
 
Did you replaced Part Number 40 in that break down?
If you did not replaced that, and you just put all that stuff on, most likely your drive belt tensioner is not tracking straight and pulled the belt off again. This sleeve is know to wear out pretty good and causing the tensioner arm and wheel not to be correctly lined up with the flywheel and the hydrostatic pulley.
 

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I did not replace part 40, I will check for it to replace, and order the part. Thank you!

I have a bigger issue. I took the flywheel off and all the bolts that hold the bell housing to the motor have backed out. There were 4 or so in a pile behind the flywheel. I think this has to be the audible friction in the flywheel.

The holes at not lined up from the bell to motor and mounts will need loosened and it pryed back in alignment to run new bolts.

I am afraid of seals going back as a result of this but really do not want to tear off the bell housing. I am also afraid that some of the holes are egged out from the bolts hitting off the flywheel.

My goal is to put the housing back in place and run new bolts that may need the holes raced and lock tite them heavy. Then put it back together. I don't have leaks so this seems to be the short term solution

Do you know the extent of this damage? And possibly the best course of action to get her back running?

Below is a picture of what I saw behind the flywheel, there are two guide pins back there that don't seem to belong to the flywheel?

Thanks so much! Take Care!
 

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Your rear Main Seal from the Crankshaft is already leaking, thats what the whole black oil is there. I would also get all new bolts. You might have to pull the engine/pump assembly out of the machine.
 
Ok, thank you very much! Do you know what that cover is over the seal? The cover does not bolt to anything and rides on the crank shaft, and gets hot! I took that cover off and the seal itself is seeping oil slightly, I have not lost oil in the machine significantly.

I would like to see if I can patch it up for now, run new bolts, and monitor for leaks. I understand that it may not work and then the job gets big, I would atleast like to drive it to a better spot to have the work done.

I do not see all the black oil that you are mentioning, we did spray wd40 behind the flywheel to see if there was a reduction in the friction noises.
 
Ok, thank you very much! Do you know what that cover is over the seal? The cover does not bolt to anything and rides on the crank shaft, and gets hot! I took that cover off and the seal itself is seeping oil slightly, I have not lost oil in the machine significantly.

I would like to see if I can patch it up for now, run new bolts, and monitor for leaks. I understand that it may not work and then the job gets big, I would atleast like to drive it to a better spot to have the work done.

I do not see all the black oil that you are mentioning, we did spray wd40 behind the flywheel to see if there was a reduction in the friction noises.
So if you took that dust cover from the rear main sela off and the seal is leaking, that is engine oil leaking. You could wait and just finish your job but keep an eye on your engine oil level!
 
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