Bobcat 743 spool valve rubber hose

[SaltyOlive]

Help
I have a old 743 bobcat that has a spool valve assembly mounted on the right side of the inside frame rail.
Every tube that goes into the valve are metal except for two rubber hoses....
One is mounted an the top and the other the bottom....
I've tried everything I can think, short of pulling the motor to get access to that lower hose....
The lower hose formed a pin hole that's spraying.

I Recently removed all the metal tubes except for the last one that will not budge because it feeds behind the engine.

If anyone has ever had this issue and knows how to get this hose off aside from removing the engine, please help

Thank You,
Steve

 

[SkidRoe]

Not the answer that you want to hear, but I went through a bout of hose failures a few years ago after my machine had hit its 20th birthday. I finally pulled the engine and pumps, and replaced every hose in the machine. Yes a pain, but nice to have it behind me. And yes, sometimes you have to pull the engine to get access to things.

FWIW

 

[SaltyOlive]

Not the answer that you want to hear, but I went through a bout of hose failures a few years ago after my machine had hit its 20th birthday. I finally pulled the engine and pumps, and replaced every hose in the machine. Yes a pain, but nice to have it behind me. And yes, sometimes you have to pull the engine to get access to things.

FWIW

Thank You, I figured as much....I've replaced so many hoses on it and my backhoe and rebuilt so many cylinders, but never engine removal in the bobcat....is the engine easy to re line up the spline when putting it back it? Thank You

 

[SkidRoe]

I have never done it personally on a 743, but I have read that it is easier with 2 people

 

[Davross22]

Hi guys. Removing the engine isn't as bad as you think. Gives you a chance to have a look and replace other things that arnt doing soo well. the spline just pushes on so little problem there as well. I put a couple of 2x2 under the engine and slowly winched out with my tiedown strap from the semi trailer, slow yes but you can keep an eye on everything. piece of mind when your out on the next job where you just want to get it done, clean it up and put it away.

good luck

 

[Tazza]

Sadly yeah, engine out is the easiest way, i have heard of it being down with cut down spanners, but i have always done it with engine and spool removed.

Pulling the engine as mentioned, is easy. I removed, replaced u-joints and replaced it in 2 hours once i believe. It could have even been less, but i have done it a few times before. 4 bolts, exhaust, fuel line, electrics, air hose and radiator hoses, ooh and the throttle and stop cables. It will just slide out. It pays to have a helper to put it back in, lay on the pump and use your fingers to line the coupler up and get your helper to SLOWLY bump it forward, don't get your fingers caught between the shaft and yoke, it won't be fun.

 

[SaltyOlive]

Hi guys. Removing the engine isn't as bad as you think. Gives you a chance to have a look and replace other things that arnt doing soo well. the spline just pushes on so little problem there as well. I put a couple of 2x2 under the engine and slowly winched out with my tiedown strap from the semi trailer, slow yes but you can keep an eye on everything. piece of mind when your out on the next job where you just want to get it done, clean it up and put it away.

good luck

Thank You for the help
It's one of those things, when you have never done it before your always concerned with how much am I getting into lol

 

[SaltyOlive]

Sadly yeah, engine out is the easiest way, i have heard of it being down with cut down spanners, but i have always done it with engine and spool removed.

Pulling the engine as mentioned, is easy. I removed, replaced u-joints and replaced it in 2 hours once i believe. It could have even been less, but i have done it a few times before. 4 bolts, exhaust, fuel line, electrics, air hose and radiator hoses, ooh and the throttle and stop cables. It will just slide out. It pays to have a helper to put it back in, lay on the pump and use your fingers to line the coupler up and get your helper to SLOWLY bump it forward, don't get your fingers caught between the shaft and yoke, it won't be fun.

Thank You for the detailed explanation, it actually really helps. It also helps me confirm that I was also correct on my inspection of what needs to come out....I'm glad the spline is not too bad....I was just thinking of removing a lower unit from a i/o boat years back and that was a pia to line up the spline and it was completely open....I could not imagine trying to squeeze into that engine bay to line it up and being easy, lol

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

You can put it together by yourself if you remove the radiator and use a string to hold the joint up when you push the engine forward.

 

[Davross22]

North Idaho Wolfman,

Great Idea. That would work, yes. I've done three now and they've all had the radiator in. Not for any particular reason except which part has been completed first. Ive looked at this project, not as a task, but a bonus. All the little things one finds, some of which, will have been an issue later. One of my machines is on the farm, which is very remote, 300 klm from anywhere. I know I can do the drive, put the battery in the old girl and go to work, do the job, clean her up and put her back away until next time.

I love the way you guys just pitch in and try and help each other! great discussion.
Dav.
Give a thought for the Ukraine people.
[h4][/h4]

 

[SaltyOlive]

You can put it together by yourself if you remove the radiator and use a string to hold the joint up when you push the engine forward.

Thank You for the pearls of experience.... little things like that will help a lot

 

[jp8775]

I have a 843 that has a hydro leak in the spool valve area, I put new quad seals in and the back side towards the engine is not leaking. The fluid comes out seemingly under the valve assy. If I put the arms up the bob tack with out a bucket drops with in a few hours and if I put a log splitter on it it leaks like crazy when I try to rotate it up. Question can I hook up a hydraulic pump in line some where to pressurize the unit with out having to have the engine running? I have a unit with a reservoir and a remote on off control 3200 psi 3.7 GPH I could tee into the system so I could pressurize at will as I look for the leak. I am going to put dye in the oil and use a black light as I do with engine should work with hydraulic as well. If I do this where would be the best place to tee it in? The 843 has no safety stuff so I guess I will not even have to turn the key on. I have the bobcat blocked up so the wheels will turn and a safety block on the lift arm. The cab is as well up and held with a strap so it cannot fall. See if the engine is running I need to crawl in the engine compartment to get to the valve body to see it and that is uncomfortable for me. Any help.

 

[SkidRoe]

It sounds to me like you have a couple of different issues. The boom dropping is likely piston seals. As far as the hydro leak goes, I am thinking you have a hose that has reached the end of life. Your machine is about the age where hoses start going bad one by one. My recommendation is to bite the bullet, and replace all the hoses. It is a pain in the butt, but worth the effort

 

[jp8775]

843 leaking problem.

It sounds to me like you have a couple of different issues. The boom dropping is likely piston seals. As far as the hydro leak goes, I am thinking you have a hose that has reached the end of life. Your machine is about the age where hoses start going bad one by one. My recommendation is to bite the bullet, and replace all the hoses. It is a pain in the butt, but worth the effort

Its the bob tack that drops not the lift arms. It seems to coincidental that the bob tack weeps and it leaks like crazy when you have a load on it like a heavy long splitter that sticks out 10 feet. But I cant load the tilt to get it to leak badly safely with the engine running and be in a position to see where its leaking? None of the hoses are leaking that I can see. That was my first thought. All leaking is at the valve body area! Some one replaced most of the hoses recently they look fairly new. I know 843's are leakers no one has a dry one. But this a gallon in 10 min when loaded and I very slow weep when not. Its defiantly in the tilt circuit!

 

[jp8775]

I have also a 743b fire restoration nearing completion. I need a photo of the back side of the two cab panels up top. Its not the same as the 743. I have a used 743 cab harness and panels I purchased used and is no help. It was burned up on my 743b. I have a new harness both cab and engine. The wiring schematic in the shop manual is of little use. It does not show where the wiring harness connection go on the gauges ect. Because the Bobcat schematics are not in color I see with out a picture I will have to ring out each wire one by one, trace it all the way to the destination in the engine harness. I am looking for a short cut. Serial # 509321268 (743b).

 

[Bobcat413]

I have a 843 that has a hydro leak in the spool valve area, I put new quad seals in and the back side towards the engine is not leaking. The fluid comes out seemingly under the valve assy. If I put the arms up the bob tack with out a bucket drops with in a few hours and if I put a log splitter on it it leaks like crazy when I try to rotate it up. Question can I hook up a hydraulic pump in line some where to pressurize the unit with out having to have the engine running? I have a unit with a reservoir and a remote on off control 3200 psi 3.7 GPH I could tee into the system so I could pressurize at will as I look for the leak. I am going to put dye in the oil and use a black light as I do with engine should work with hydraulic as well. If I do this where would be the best place to tee it in? The 843 has no safety stuff so I guess I will not even have to turn the key on. I have the bobcat blocked up so the wheels will turn and a safety block on the lift arm. The cab is as well up and held with a strap so it cannot fall. See if the engine is running I need to crawl in the engine compartment to get to the valve body to see it and that is uncomfortable for me. Any help.

I just got done replacing all the hoses on my DS743. To replace the hose at the bottom of the spool valve you need to remove the spool valve. My project started with a simple suction hose and one pressure hose replacement. Fast forward I did every hose except the 2 that are 1/2 steel 1/2 rubber due to the cost. When the go I will replace them.

 

[jp8775]

I just got done replacing all the hoses on my DS743. To replace the hose at the bottom of the spool valve you need to remove the spool valve. My project started with a simple suction hose and one pressure hose replacement. Fast forward I did every hose except the 2 that are 1/2 steel 1/2 rubber due to the cost. When the go I will replace them.

I replaced all the hose on my 743B fire job, I took them into a shop that makes hoses. They just made the whole hose out of rubber. There is no reason that you cannot do that I and others I know have done that over and over for years. Just in the area where the steel is, have them put the Kevlar shield on it for abrasion. I pay about $40-60 per hose to have all new ends and hose and extra $6 foot for abrasion shield where needed )They will match if they are straight or angled) Any implement place can make hoses. I use a Car Quest that makes hoses, about 20% cheaper than a implement dealer even.

 

[SaltyOlive]

Yea Napa makes hoses here, so that's the easy part lol....should be starting soon on the engine removal to get to those hoses. I always dread exhaust, I just think I'm going to cut and splice with a collar on removal and installation

 

[SkidRoe]

843 leaking problem.

Its the bob tack that drops not the lift arms. It seems to coincidental that the bob tack weeps and it leaks like crazy when you have a load on it like a heavy long splitter that sticks out 10 feet. But I cant load the tilt to get it to leak badly safely with the engine running and be in a position to see where its leaking? None of the hoses are leaking that I can see. That was my first thought. All leaking is at the valve body area! Some one replaced most of the hoses recently they look fairly new. I know 843's are leakers no one has a dry one. But this a gallon in 10 min when loaded and I very slow weep when not. Its defiantly in the tilt circuit!

It still sounds like piston seals to me, and likely rod seals too, if I read this correctly. Had the same problem on the 773C, with bucket/Bobtach cylinder drift, aggravated by high loads. Seals fixed it right up. These machines are getting to that age...

 

[jp8775]

Has any one tried to back feed hydraulic pressure with an electric pressure pump to look for leaks? If so where did you "T" in? I thought this would be a great way to test the system especially like I have a 743b restoration I am finishing up. Could test it before starting it up. my pump makes 3000psi at 3.6 GPM