Bobcat 632 - Converting to solid state ignition

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bobcatzack

bobcatzack

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I have a remote crank button that I have used for a long time. One clip goes to the starter, one clip goes the positive battery terminal. Push the buttone and the engine cranks. If you want the engine to start you have to turn the key on to energize the ignition system.

2 nasty pictures of my starter before I rebuilt my engine. One shows where the clip goes after sliding off the connector from your ignition switch, I put an arrow on the pic. The other photo shows it actually hooked up with the wiring all there.

Making a pushbutton and clips can be of what you have on hand. I am fortunate to have tools on hand. I started rebuilding and working on engines in the 1960's. It was my entire career. View attachment 2583 View attachment 2584 View attachment 2585
Thank you Randy! Based on this advise, I have ordered a similar remote crank button from Amazon. Thanks again.
 
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bobcatzack

bobcatzack

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hoping this is the solution for BobCatZack!

Basics first.

Still curious about that wire to nowhere that he sees.
I had to go out of town in an emergency so as soon as I get back home, I will work on the suggestions Randy has made. Will also send an update on the the hanging wire that appears to go nowhere!
 
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bobcatzack

bobcatzack

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I have a remote crank button that I have used for a long time. One clip goes to the starter, one clip goes the positive battery terminal. Push the buttone and the engine cranks. If you want the engine to start you have to turn the key on to energize the ignition system.

2 nasty pictures of my starter before I rebuilt my engine. One shows where the clip goes after sliding off the connector from your ignition switch, I put an arrow on the pic. The other photo shows it actually hooked up with the wiring all there.

Making a pushbutton and clips can be of what you have on hand. I am fortunate to have tools on hand. I started rebuilding and working on engines in the 1960's. It was my entire career. View attachment 2583 View attachment 2584 View attachment 2585
Also, another extremely helpful forum member Spitzair had shared this video on remote starting Bobcat 632:



Thanks!
 

GreenwoodCreations

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I don’t have all of this post read but if you are in the process of switching to EI. Remember that Petronic unit can’t handle copper plug wires. Switch to Carbon wires or burn it out.
 
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bobcatzack

bobcatzack

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I don’t have all of this post read but if you are in the process of switching to EI. Remember that Petronic unit can’t handle copper plug wires. Switch to Carbon wires or burn it out.
Thank you for the heads up! Will get carbon plug wires from an auto parts store.
 
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bobcatzack

bobcatzack

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I don’t have all of this post read but if you are in the process of switching to EI. Remember that Petronic unit can’t handle copper plug wires. Switch to Carbon wires or burn it out.
Called Napa auto parts - they tell me they don’t carry carbon plug wires. Should I order these from Amazon?

 
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bobcatzack

bobcatzack

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Not yet - had to go out of town for the past week. Back now, trying to see if I can pull of installing the EI on the distributor without removing the distributor from the engine! Will post if this works. Thanks
 

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foton

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I believe that resistor wires are carbon graphite , they are everywhere , someone was sitting on their brain , the point just do not use copper wires on a electronic ing.,with points copper wires is all that I will use.
 

Dadosix

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Not yet - had to go out of town for the past week. Back now, trying to see if I can pull of installing the EI on the distributor without removing the distributor from the engine! Will post if this works. Thanks
cool - did you ever verify your wire arrangement? I think, if it were me,I’d want to hear it run first before mucking around putting the EI kit on first. If you change too much and still cant getting running, it makes the diagnosis harder to find out just what is wrong.

That distributor can go in MANY ways. Close is not good enough. Figure that it can go back in about 18 wrong ways and 1 right (based on the number of teeth on the gear on the bottom of the distributor.
 
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bobcatzack

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Out of the fire into the fire (literally!)
So when I attempted to install, none of the items from the EI kit were fitting into my distributor. I was frustrated enough to manipulate the fittings (drilled a bigger hole in the magnetic ring etc.). Got the distributor back onto the machine - and it started! However, after running for 5 minutes the muffler area started getting RED HOT!! So hot that some oil around the plugs caught on fire! I was lucky the whole engine did not blow up!
Now I am reading online that perhaps my ignition timing could be out of whack .. being a novice, not sure what to do next : (
 
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bobcatzack

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Found some related write-up from a car engine forum -

When your timings are late, the header tubes will glow red when idling, or at part throttle. The reason is that the fire in the cylinder kindles too late, and burns even when the exhaust valve is open. This fire then transfers into the headers, giving that red glow to your vehicle. How do you fix that? Well, for that you will just have to advance the timing a few degrees. Working on the timing could possibly fix this issue, allowing the car headers not to glow red anymore.
 
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bobcatzack

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Another car engine website mentioned:

9 times out of 10, glowing exhaust is due to an ignition issue. Either of the two things mentioned above would result in a late spark, which means late combustion, which means all that flame and power potential shooting into your exhaust system rather than making power in the motor.
 
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bobcatzack

bobcatzack

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cool - did you ever verify your wire arrangement? I think, if it were me,I’d want to hear it run first before mucking around putting the EI kit on first. If you change too much and still cant getting running, it makes the diagnosis harder to find out just what is wrong.

That distributor can go in MANY ways. Close is not good enough. Figure that it can go back in about 18 wrong ways and 1 right (based on the number of teeth on the gear on the bottom of the distributor.
So since the red hot exhaust and almost an engine fire last night, I went back this morning to check what the damage was and see if the Bobcat still starts - I did not find any burnt plug wires or anything that looked terrible, so attempt to start was successful (video link below) - at idle the engine starts getting real hot in less than a minute - so still not sure where to go from here. Should I go back to the original point distributor system (which I basically destroyed when removing some parts)?

 

Dadosix

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So since the red hot exhaust and almost an engine fire last night, I went back this morning to check what the damage was and see if the Bobcat still starts - I did not find any burnt plug wires or anything that looked terrible, so attempt to start was successful (video link below) - at idle the engine starts getting real hot in less than a minute - so still not sure where to go from here. Should I go back to the original point distributor system (which I basically destroyed when removing some parts)?


i’m going to suggest you find a mechanic to help you out with this.


you need someone who at least has a timing light and can use it properly.

i’m not sure of your skill level, so that is why i suggest as above.
 
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bobcatzack

bobcatzack

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Thanks to all the helpful members here on the forum - all the valuable advise did get my Bobcat 632 started 🙂. Here’s a quick video on the first start -

 

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