I run a lot of old stuff, and my personal experience is, that the ignition system has to be clean and in prime condition. I would first make certain the points and condensor are functioning properly. Because my machine is permanently outside and I am in wet climate for the winter months, I find I have to clean the oxidation off the points annually, and although the condensor is not always a problem, if you are experiencing an ignition issue, it would be wise to replace it.
Checking the timing is simple and just a matter of having someone turning the engine over with a timing light connected.
Another method of setting the rough timing, is to disconnect the battery, connect an ohmmeter to both sides of the points, turn the engine over with a socket wrench on the crankshaft bolt, and notice on the timing mark at the front pulley, when the points open.
BTW: when checking the timing, the engine should only be turned in the normal direction of rotation. This is to prevent any error due to slack in the system.
All this should be done even before switching over to a CD ignition system.
That text I sent in the first posting, was taken from an actual listing on ebay.
Bob
Good advice here for BobCatZach. I have no experience with the 4 cyl engine on these but used to have lots of garage time with points / condenser systems.
Where the CD system may be an upgrade, I think the focus should be a running machine before swapping parts out.
So - old style points -
Does this engine have adjustable points? So far, I have not seen anyone mention Dwell (dwell angle).
Ignition system needs to have good plugs, points, condenser, cap, rotor and wires. Is there a possibility, after the engine got wet / cleaned, that the cap was removed and the carbon stud that contacts the rotor was lost / damaged. I’m thinking not, as upthread there was mention of spark.
No mention of spark quality - yellow - coil is not getting what he wants to fire hot - bad condenser, bad coil. White / blue - good and hot. Let’s move on.
Will it run on ether or brake clean? just s squirt to see if the engine even tries.
Zack mentioned timing, but that, IMO, isn’t a player here as it was running before the engine cleaning - Unless the water moved the distributor and affected timing that way.
Cap / rotor / wires - did the plug wires get removed and maybe back on in a different order?
What is a big unknown is the rusty wire upthread near the solenoid that goes nowhere. Thinking this is the real issue.
Don’t get me wrong guys - I’m all for the CD unit, but I avoid throwing parts at a problem. Would rather spend a few hours verifying the basics instead of a few hundred on ‘might be’ ideas.
