OK back in Brisbane. So my knowledge grows, both the servo rams and move on the brackets and seem only to "twitch" when trying to get reverse. that is the first repair i shall do when time permits next week. I would think if they are by-passing it would fail to travel forwards as well as backwards. it moves forwards , however seems slightly slower than it used to be, but that could just be me. ' Any clue to how far these rams should travel? Let me just go and measure how much shaft is exposed in the standing position. Right 35mm from the seal to the start of the flats on the shaft. That tells me these cylinders move about 18mm in either direction. I have easy 10mm movement in the mountings so over 50% of the actual movement is lost in slop alone. So i think this should be fixed as Step one. Mike
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Thats a good place to start Any slop in the mounting is movement lost on the Pintel shaft .....Without taking floor plates out and measuring mine ..I cant recall how much movement the Servos have ....When you disconnect the servo from pump ..you might be able to measure the travel distance by rotating lug on Pintel shaft ...ie from the 3 oclock position to somewhere between 11 and 12 if I remember correctly ,,you will feel the pintel lug come to a stop when the swash plate in pump is fully open ....CheersOK back in Brisbane. So my knowledge grows, both the servo rams and move on the brackets and seem only to "twitch" when trying to get reverse. that is the first repair i shall do when time permits next week. I would think if they are by-passing it would fail to travel forwards as well as backwards. it moves forwards , however seems slightly slower than it used to be, but that could just be me. ' Any clue to how far these rams should travel? Let me just go and measure how much shaft is exposed in the standing position. Right 35mm from the seal to the start of the flats on the shaft. That tells me these cylinders move about 18mm in either direction. I have easy 10mm movement in the mountings so over 50% of the actual movement is lost in slop alone. So i think this should be fixed as Step one. Mike
apoligies there that should have been ie 9 oclock to somewhere around 11 - 12 CheersThats a good place to start Any slop in the mounting is movement lost on the Pintel shaft .....Without taking floor plates out and measuring mine ..I cant recall how much movement the Servos have ....When you disconnect the servo from pump ..you might be able to measure the travel distance by rotating lug on Pintel shaft ...ie from the 3 oclock position to somewhere between 11 and 12 if I remember correctly ,,you will feel the pintel lug come to a stop when the swash plate in pump is fully open ....Cheers
What a scary piece of equipment that servo is!. I finally got it off and the bearing is as sloppy as hell, will see if i can track one down to replace it. Pintel shafts seem free and solid to move . The servo ram i will have tested to see if it is bypassing by the local hydro shop. from the drivers seat the left one is moving 50mm total travel and the right hand side moves 60mm so there is a discrepancy there to start with. I see that they have adjustable travel in the back half of the cylinder adjustable stops for both forwards and back shaft travel. From what i can understand these get hydraulic pressure from one of the two electric motors just behind the drivers seat down low... so that add another thing in the mix that may not be operating correctly. I am also highly suspect to the main vale control unit that lives under the "T" handle, have you pulled yours apart? and does it have serviceable seals/ "O" rings in it? Mike.apoligies there that should have been ie 9 oclock to somewhere around 11 - 12 Cheers
Hi Gremlin The valve under the T handle is the Parker valve I havent had mine apart so not sure if thats part of the equation here ...The seals on the plungers are a square seal odd size ...Parker dont list them any more according to hyd shop i enquired at O rings wear quickly ... not sure as its been a while since I'VE been down in the bowels of mine ...but the Parker valve [ T bar valve }gets its pressure and flow from a pressure reducing valve on side of frame ....there are no electric components EXcept the solenoids that operate 4 in one bucket and Trencher control ...They are basically a diverter valve that operates off Auxillery pump ...Thats the first pump off Bellhousing ..It also acts as the charge pump for the Two transmission pumps .....CheersWhat a scary piece of equipment that servo is!. I finally got it off and the bearing is as sloppy as hell, will see if i can track one down to replace it. Pintel shafts seem free and solid to move . The servo ram i will have tested to see if it is bypassing by the local hydro shop. from the drivers seat the left one is moving 50mm total travel and the right hand side moves 60mm so there is a discrepancy there to start with. I see that they have adjustable travel in the back half of the cylinder adjustable stops for both forwards and back shaft travel. From what i can understand these get hydraulic pressure from one of the two electric motors just behind the drivers seat down low... so that add another thing in the mix that may not be operating correctly. I am also highly suspect to the main vale control unit that lives under the "T" handle, have you pulled yours apart? and does it have serviceable seals/ "O" rings in it? Mike.
If there is anyone else out there in BHB world that has experience with these machines please Chime in Im in no way a Hydraulics expert ....So please correct me if you pick up on anything ....My experience comes from pulling spanners on my ol' girl ....Had the Engine and Pumps out twice Thats a Nightmare ..Replaced every hose as the original plumbing had little thought put into it originally ...A lot of the hoses were wearing on each other ..Replaced all hoses and wound that Hose Guard coil over them ..A big expense at the time but with approx 175 litres oil in Hyd tank ...One hose blowout and the difficulty in replacing any of the hoses with the engine and pumps in frame is a $#$%%^^^( ) of a job ...... With oil around $5-7 a litre the new hoses worked out cheap by comparison Cheers to AllHi Gremlin The valve under the T handle is the Parker valve I havent had mine apart so not sure if thats part of the equation here ...The seals on the plungers are a square seal odd size ...Parker dont list them any more according to hyd shop i enquired at O rings wear quickly ... not sure as its been a while since I'VE been down in the bowels of mine ...but the Parker valve [ T bar valve }gets its pressure and flow from a pressure reducing valve on side of frame ....there are no electric components EXcept the solenoids that operate 4 in one bucket and Trencher control ...They are basically a diverter valve that operates off Auxillery pump ...Thats the first pump off Bellhousing ..It also acts as the charge pump for the Two transmission pumps .....Cheers
Okay got the left servo ram off and having it tested and re-sealed $115 quote for doing that. Did not want to fool with that particular one as it has the limit stop assembly attached. As for the bearings, walked into surplus bearings, they had them on the shelf $15 a pop so I got two and will replace the other side one while the floor is out and I can get to it all semi easily. Had a off-hand quote to build the main dual drive pump @ $9000.00 so hoping like hell its not one or the other end of that pump thats failed!! MikeIf there is anyone else out there in BHB world that has experience with these machines please Chime in Im in no way a Hydraulics expert ....So please correct me if you pick up on anything ....My experience comes from pulling spanners on my ol' girl ....Had the Engine and Pumps out twice Thats a Nightmare ..Replaced every hose as the original plumbing had little thought put into it originally ...A lot of the hoses were wearing on each other ..Replaced all hoses and wound that Hose Guard coil over them ..A big expense at the time but with approx 175 litres oil in Hyd tank ...One hose blowout and the difficulty in replacing any of the hoses with the engine and pumps in frame is a $#$%%^^^( ) of a job ...... With oil around $5-7 a litre the new hoses worked out cheap by comparison Cheers to All
Gees ...That quote to do the pump seems way out there......I dont think they are that much NEW !!!! ......I'd say you are going to firstly have to get the servos to synchronise on the pintle shafts first ....small adjustments there make a big difference to its travel behaviour ....when they're set up right there should be no movement at the wheels when you release the Brake .....Fine adjustments after that will get your Left / Right wheel speeds equal ....As well any extreme wear in the ball rod / tie rod on the pump end of servos can be enough to throw things out ...I only use the ones with the Brass centre Bush.....The Nylon ones flog out in no time CheersOkay got the left servo ram off and having it tested and re-sealed $115 quote for doing that. Did not want to fool with that particular one as it has the limit stop assembly attached. As for the bearings, walked into surplus bearings, they had them on the shelf $15 a pop so I got two and will replace the other side one while the floor is out and I can get to it all semi easily. Had a off-hand quote to build the main dual drive pump @ $9000.00 so hoping like hell its not one or the other end of that pump thats failed!! Mike
Hi Gremlin Its just a thought As long as your machine is Jacked up on blocks .....You may be able to screw a long bolt into the lug on the pintel arm of pumps and operate them manually .....Biggest problem there is its such an awkward spot to operate the pumps and watch what the wheel rotation is doing.....Might need a spotter on the outside ....but would give you a fair indication if the wheel motors are responding accordingly...The thread on mine are 1/2 inch UNF ....I imagine yours to be the same unless it looks modified ..CheersGees ...That quote to do the pump seems way out there......I dont think they are that much NEW !!!! ......I'd say you are going to firstly have to get the servos to synchronise on the pintle shafts first ....small adjustments there make a big difference to its travel behaviour ....when they're set up right there should be no movement at the wheels when you release the Brake .....Fine adjustments after that will get your Left / Right wheel speeds equal ....As well any extreme wear in the ball rod / tie rod on the pump end of servos can be enough to throw things out ...I only use the ones with the Brass centre Bush.....The Nylon ones flog out in no time Cheers
OK, steer cylinder was rebuilt, its back on with a new bearing, just needs tightening. Report came back that seals were in poor condition and "possibly" was bypassing. Next job is to replace bush in other side and tighten everything back up. Once its all back together I will be able to see the travel distances and see if we got any improvement. China lists the vickers main drive pump for about 2K for the TA1919 dual. Not that I want to buy one if I dont need. The bucket locking pin dual ended ram has decided it wants to weep now, but that looks like its a home doable reseal. Mike PS looks like we the only two that have a Dirt Devil in AU.Hi Gremlin Its just a thought As long as your machine is Jacked up on blocks .....You may be able to screw a long bolt into the lug on the pintel arm of pumps and operate them manually .....Biggest problem there is its such an awkward spot to operate the pumps and watch what the wheel rotation is doing.....Might need a spotter on the outside ....but would give you a fair indication if the wheel motors are responding accordingly...The thread on mine are 1/2 inch UNF ....I imagine yours to be the same unless it looks modified ..Cheers
Yeah it would be good to hear some more input regarding these machines ...Before you hook the Servo Rams up you may want to try moving the pump shafts at low Idle....That would effectively by pass the Pilot Valve under the TBar ....If all systems are go then its most likely there is a problem in the Parker Pilot Valve For Safety reasons ....Make sure the Machine is up on sturdy blocks if you decide to do that .....CheersOK, steer cylinder was rebuilt, its back on with a new bearing, just needs tightening. Report came back that seals were in poor condition and "possibly" was bypassing. Next job is to replace bush in other side and tighten everything back up. Once its all back together I will be able to see the travel distances and see if we got any improvement. China lists the vickers main drive pump for about 2K for the TA1919 dual. Not that I want to buy one if I dont need. The bucket locking pin dual ended ram has decided it wants to weep now, but that looks like its a home doable reseal. Mike PS looks like we the only two that have a Dirt Devil in AU.
Hey mate I have just got a dirt devil bhb skid steer bought not running got running have ancillary hydrulic but no drive pulled the drive pump out thinking I have no drive because there is no pressure at all coming out of the pump it has drive into the pump While having it out pulled pump out looks to be in good condition flat sanded the plates and reassembled im lost what I should do next is there a charge pump ?? And would I be able to get a copy of those manuals ?? Is there any safety lock outs im missing ??Hi Cooee, I have the service/repair manuals for the Dirt Devil, my machine is in being repaired atm and mechanic has manuals but as soon as I get it back I would be happy to photo copy and post to u...
Morning James will chase up on the manuals ...is the pilot valve moving the pintel arms on top of transmission pump ..via the two servo rams ie, are the two servo rams on top of transmission pump activating when you move the Tbar forward backward left right ? can i ask what state you are in qld nsw wa sa etcHey mate I have just got a dirt devil bhb skid steer bought not running got running have ancillary hydrulic but no drive pulled the drive pump out thinking I have no drive because there is no pressure at all coming out of the pump it has drive into the pump While having it out pulled pump out looks to be in good condition flat sanded the plates and reassembled im lost what I should do next is there a charge pump ?? And would I be able to get a copy of those manuals ?? Is there any safety lock outs im missing ??
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