873 Bearing replacement

[Rich M-37]

The bearings on my 873 had 7/32 play on one side 5/32 on the other in the rear. The front had no play. I decided to replace all the axel bearings. I put the loader up on 4 6 ton jack stands 2 under the front axel tubes and 2 under the rear cross member at the back of the loader. I also decided to keep the boom down while doind this repair [not enough room to lift the boom up completey]. I loosened the outer axel bolts. I drained the chain case as wellas the hydraulic system. I removed the control levers linkages and assist cylinders in the front. I unbolted the rear linkage and removed them. I removed the brake soleniod and the cross over linkage on the center cover. I removed the center cover. I removed both main hydraulic lines from the pump to the motor on theleft side [facing loader] I plugged the pump and motor. I removed the drain back line on the left side and plugged it. I then was able to remove the rear chain case cover. I then removed the front toe brake and the front chain case cover. I used the mechanical advantage of the tires to loosen and remove the inner axel bolts. I took the washer out of each bolt. I then reinstalled the bolts. Threading them in all the way. I cut a 4 1/2" by 5" block of wood set it on the bottom of the chain case and used the 4" square 1" thick steel plates set them on the wood[I used 2 1" thick plates, 1 1/2" thick plate, 1 5/16" ]. I set the plates on the wood the wrench on the bolt and spun the tire to loosen the bolt on the left side of the loader, this pushed out the left axel I removed the tire and pulled out the axel. I then added 4 1" blocks 1 1/2" block and 2 1/16" plates. I loosened both hydraulic lines to the right motor. Then I put the plates in and put the wrench on the bolt and turned the tire using the mechanical Advantage to pushout this axel. I then used heavy duty plastic ties to hold up the front chains off the drive motor sprockets. Then I put my 2 1/2" by 4 1/2" block of wood on the bottom of the chain case and used my steel plates, against the axel bolt to push out the rear axels the same as the front. Make sure that half way pushed out that you go back in reverse so that you can add extra plates, you do not want to damage the last threads in the axel shafts by going to the end of the axel. Well, that is how I got to this point, How is the best way to remove the races from the axel tubes? Any ideas,

 

[Tazza]

Nice progress report.
The way i removed mine, as they were damaged was to cut the cages and let the rollers fall out, i then used mu MIG welder to weld two beads on the race, one either side, then used an air chisel and knocked the races off, move one side then flip over, it was very quick and easy. The only other way is a very long puller.
Now that i re-read your post, you mention the tubes, i actually removed all four axles then used a long length of 1" solid bar, sliding it from one side to the other and knocked the bearing cups out. Slide it along the bottom for the base, then push down to get the top ones, does that make sense? it too was very easy to do, just be careful, you can and will slip and may catch your knuckes on the axle tube that you are sliding the bar through, it got me a few times... Just something to be careful of.
Sounds like you are making good progress!

 

[Rich M-37]

Nice progress report.
The way i removed mine, as they were damaged was to cut the cages and let the rollers fall out, i then used mu MIG welder to weld two beads on the race, one either side, then used an air chisel and knocked the races off, move one side then flip over, it was very quick and easy. The only other way is a very long puller.
Now that i re-read your post, you mention the tubes, i actually removed all four axles then used a long length of 1" solid bar, sliding it from one side to the other and knocked the bearing cups out. Slide it along the bottom for the base, then push down to get the top ones, does that make sense? it too was very easy to do, just be careful, you can and will slip and may catch your knuckes on the axle tube that you are sliding the bar through, it got me a few times... Just something to be careful of.
Sounds like you are making good progress!

Thanks Tazza, I ordered the other 4 bearings and races today, as well as the chain case cover gaskets,plug and grommet. Since I don't have a press, the Bobcat dealer is going to press off my hubs and press off the old bearings and press on the new bearings. I'll be sure to watch my knuckles! I appreciate the tip. Rich M-37

 

[Rich M-37]

Thanks Tazza, I ordered the other 4 bearings and races today, as well as the chain case cover gaskets,plug and grommet. Since I don't have a press, the Bobcat dealer is going to press off my hubs and press off the old bearings and press on the new bearings. I'll be sure to watch my knuckles! I appreciate the tip. Rich M-37

I am still working on my axle bearing replacement. I left off trying to remove the races out of the axele tubes. I cut the outer ones out with a dremeltool carefully. At first I used a mild steel disk I made 3/8 " thick with a 11/16th" hole, on the end of my slide hammer. It worked on theraces that I put a cut in. It did not work on the races actually in the chain case. I cut the front races no luck. The mild steel kept rounding off. I had my brother make me a disc to the Bobcat specs out of tool steel. He is a machinist. It made all the differance in the world. I did not have to cut the inner rear races. It took a lot of pounding, pounding in on my 3 lb slide hammer. Then I started to press the new races in place. I used my 5/8 18 threaded rod and 2 pieces of 1" thick steel cut 4''x4" Iused grade 8 rod and nuts I greased the axle tube ends and the race. I started with the rear inner races first. I put the the race on the tube lightly tapped it so it would stay in place, then I put one steel plate on the rod slid it in to the tube and put the other plate on the rod and then the grade 8 nut and I tightened it slowly, some times I had to reposition it because the race would start to go in crooked. When that happened I hammered the edge that was out. I had to wack it as hard as one can in 12" space. When it straightened out I kept on tightening until it was seated flush. The only thing I did different on the outside races was to put my extra race on the threaded rod. I ground the outer edge of the race so it slides easily in to the axle tube. So sleelplate, ground race, new race [make sure you put the new race on correctly], slide it in to the tube then put the other steel plate on in the chain case then the nut. Then tighten from the outside slowly keeping the ground race lined up straight on the new race. Tighten until flush, then slide the ground race out, you will still have to use a small punch to make sure the race is seated all the way. All 8 races installed. I started to install the axles next. Facing the loader I installed the left rear first. I packed the rear bearings The one pressed on the axle and the inner bearing, as well as the axle splines I placed 3 steel plates measuring a total of 3/4 inch on the chain case bottom. I then rolled the sprocket and chain on to the plates. I wiggled the sprocket on to the splines. I forgot say that when I first tried this the axle would push out. What I did was to position the left side tires one on top of each other. I positioned the tires next to the axle with the bearing half way out of the axle. With the sprocket on I used an inner axle bolt that is 1" longer. I tightened the bolt until it bottomed out. I then backed it out and reinstalled the factory bolt with loctite blue. When tightening the bolt you will have to make sure the bearing does not hang up on the inner tube,the axle falls out occasionally just lift it back and up and it will fall in again. On the outside of the axle shaft I installed the washer and 1 1/2" bolt. I put the ratcheton the bolt and tightened the bolt from the inside. I then removed the outer bolt removed the key cleaned the taper . I installed the axle seal, using the ground race to tap the seal in carefully. Then I put the key back in I put loctite on the taper. Then I installed the hub. I used the torque multiplier and my torque wrench set on 111 lbs and tightened the inner bolt1 1/8" When I finally tighten the outer bolts to 600lbs it will be when the tires are back on the ground after I get the air out of the system.

 

[Tazza]

I am still working on my axle bearing replacement. I left off trying to remove the races out of the axele tubes. I cut the outer ones out with a dremeltool carefully. At first I used a mild steel disk I made 3/8 " thick with a 11/16th" hole, on the end of my slide hammer. It worked on theraces that I put a cut in. It did not work on the races actually in the chain case. I cut the front races no luck. The mild steel kept rounding off. I had my brother make me a disc to the Bobcat specs out of tool steel. He is a machinist. It made all the differance in the world. I did not have to cut the inner rear races. It took a lot of pounding, pounding in on my 3 lb slide hammer. Then I started to press the new races in place. I used my 5/8 18 threaded rod and 2 pieces of 1" thick steel cut 4''x4" Iused grade 8 rod and nuts I greased the axle tube ends and the race. I started with the rear inner races first. I put the the race on the tube lightly tapped it so it would stay in place, then I put one steel plate on the rod slid it in to the tube and put the other plate on the rod and then the grade 8 nut and I tightened it slowly, some times I had to reposition it because the race would start to go in crooked. When that happened I hammered the edge that was out. I had to wack it as hard as one can in 12" space. When it straightened out I kept on tightening until it was seated flush. The only thing I did different on the outside races was to put my extra race on the threaded rod. I ground the outer edge of the race so it slides easily in to the axle tube. So sleelplate, ground race, new race [make sure you put the new race on correctly], slide it in to the tube then put the other steel plate on in the chain case then the nut. Then tighten from the outside slowly keeping the ground race lined up straight on the new race. Tighten until flush, then slide the ground race out, you will still have to use a small punch to make sure the race is seated all the way. All 8 races installed. I started to install the axles next. Facing the loader I installed the left rear first. I packed the rear bearings The one pressed on the axle and the inner bearing, as well as the axle splines I placed 3 steel plates measuring a total of 3/4 inch on the chain case bottom. I then rolled the sprocket and chain on to the plates. I wiggled the sprocket on to the splines. I forgot say that when I first tried this the axle would push out. What I did was to position the left side tires one on top of each other. I positioned the tires next to the axle with the bearing half way out of the axle. With the sprocket on I used an inner axle bolt that is 1" longer. I tightened the bolt until it bottomed out. I then backed it out and reinstalled the factory bolt with loctite blue. When tightening the bolt you will have to make sure the bearing does not hang up on the inner tube,the axle falls out occasionally just lift it back and up and it will fall in again. On the outside of the axle shaft I installed the washer and 1 1/2" bolt. I put the ratcheton the bolt and tightened the bolt from the inside. I then removed the outer bolt removed the key cleaned the taper . I installed the axle seal, using the ground race to tap the seal in carefully. Then I put the key back in I put loctite on the taper. Then I installed the hub. I used the torque multiplier and my torque wrench set on 111 lbs and tightened the inner bolt1 1/8" When I finally tighten the outer bolts to 600lbs it will be when the tires are back on the ground after I get the air out of the system.

Glad you got things under control. They sure can be tight, but given patience anything is possible.

 

[19542743]

Glad you got things under control. They sure can be tight, but given patience anything is possible.

Thanks for all the good information, Is the 863 and the 873 wheel bearing replacement the same. I have a 863 manual and need to replace the front bearings on my 873. I just started to hear a metal squeaking sound intermittently when i use it. thanks again for all the good posts Michael

 

[Tazza]

Thanks for all the good information, Is the 863 and the 873 wheel bearing replacement the same. I have a 863 manual and need to replace the front bearings on my 873. I just started to hear a metal squeaking sound intermittently when i use it. thanks again for all the good posts Michael

The bearing numbers may be different, but the procedure will be the same.
Tilt the bucket down to get the front wheels off the ground. Grab the wheel and see if it will lift up and down or push in and pull out. If it doesn't move, your bearings should be ok.

 

[19542743]

The bearing numbers may be different, but the procedure will be the same.
Tilt the bucket down to get the front wheels off the ground. Grab the wheel and see if it will lift up and down or push in and pull out. If it doesn't move, your bearings should be ok.

Bearing was in pieces... I took apart over the weekend and getting ready to rebuild. However In my service manual it says to tighten the sprocket axle bolts to 475-525 foot pounds. In re-reading all the posts dealing with with wheel bearings, i found someone used a torque multiplier to get the required 600 ft lbs. The space between the axle bolts in the chain case is only about 2 inches. I do not see how to get this done with such limited space. Even with a regular torque wrench, there is not enough space there. Any help would be greatful.

 

[Rich M-37]

Bearing was in pieces... I took apart over the weekend and getting ready to rebuild. However In my service manual it says to tighten the sprocket axle bolts to 475-525 foot pounds. In re-reading all the posts dealing with with wheel bearings, i found someone used a torque multiplier to get the required 600 ft lbs. The space between the axle bolts in the chain case is only about 2 inches. I do not see how to get this done with such limited space. Even with a regular torque wrench, there is not enough space there. Any help would be greatful.

19542743, I put a wrench on the inside and tightened the outer bolt with the hub on. Don't forget to put locktight blue on hub and bolt. then torque to 475 ft lbs. When I did this the loader was on 4 jack stands. The main drive hoses were disconnected. Also note put a piece of wood on the chain case bottom when tightening. Also It is ussually a good idea to do all 4 axel bearings at one time considering you still have to buy 15 gallons of hydraulic oil, in addition to the time to remove all parts. Bobcat iol is $70 for 5 gallons. If you have to drain it again to do the rear bearings that is a lot of money to possibly discard.

 

[Tazza]

19542743, I put a wrench on the inside and tightened the outer bolt with the hub on. Don't forget to put locktight blue on hub and bolt. then torque to 475 ft lbs. When I did this the loader was on 4 jack stands. The main drive hoses were disconnected. Also note put a piece of wood on the chain case bottom when tightening. Also It is ussually a good idea to do all 4 axel bearings at one time considering you still have to buy 15 gallons of hydraulic oil, in addition to the time to remove all parts. Bobcat iol is $70 for 5 gallons. If you have to drain it again to do the rear bearings that is a lot of money to possibly discard.

I usually just loctite the threads, put a spanner in the chain case and with a bar with a plate welded on it with holes to suit the axle studs, i haul on it. I don't know what torque i get, but its really tight and the loctite holds it there.
Check for axle end float. It should not move in or out. If so, you need to machine that amount from the inner portion of the washer to take up the slack. Check all the axles, if they move a lot, you may need bearings there too.

 

[Tazza]

I usually just loctite the threads, put a spanner in the chain case and with a bar with a plate welded on it with holes to suit the axle studs, i haul on it. I don't know what torque i get, but its really tight and the loctite holds it there.
Check for axle end float. It should not move in or out. If so, you need to machine that amount from the inner portion of the washer to take up the slack. Check all the axles, if they move a lot, you may need bearings there too.

Oh, chain case oil, just standard engine oil will do in here, you don't need expensive bobcat oil in there. Find something cheap, it only lubricates bearings and chains that rotate relatively slowly.

 

[mrdeere1959]

Oh, chain case oil, just standard engine oil will do in here, you don't need expensive bobcat oil in there. Find something cheap, it only lubricates bearings and chains that rotate relatively slowly.

One tip for getting the backlash set is that there is a washer that is a different thickness. I always order one just in case it is needed, nothing like having to wait for a washer in the middle of a job. Oh I'm talking about the washer under the bolt

 

[19542743]

One tip for getting the backlash set is that there is a washer that is a different thickness. I always order one just in case it is needed, nothing like having to wait for a washer in the middle of a job. Oh I'm talking about the washer under the bolt

Thanks guys for all your assistance. I am only doing the front for now. the back seems ok. 19542743

 

[shaun743863]

Thanks guys for all your assistance. I am only doing the front for now. the back seems ok. 19542743

I have been reading through your guy's posts about the wheel bearings on the 863 & 873. I have an 863 that was making a weird noise the other night when I was using it and I couldn't figure out what it was. Tonight when I was putting fuel in it out of pickup tank the front right wheel was off the ground and when I stepped out of the machine it moved from front to back. From reading your posts I am assuming that at least the inner and outer bearings are FUBAR. Can anybody tell me what the Timken or BCA part numbers are for the cones and cups and the seal #. I work at a parts store and would like to be able to get my bearings tomorrow instead of having to order them from Bobcat. Any help at all is appreciated.

 

[shaun743863]

Thanks guys for all your assistance. I am only doing the front for now. the back seems ok. 19542743

Also can anybody tell me what the BCA or Timken bearing numbers are? I work at a parts store and would like to see if I can get the bearings and seals through there before going down the dealer route.