763F fuel system won't prime

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Greatdaen

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Joined
Dec 12, 2005
Messages
33
My 763F has the Kubota 2203 engine with 2050 hours and always starts easily and runs smoothly. I use it intermittently on my place. I'll try to make this version more brief. The forum timed out last time and deleted my whole rant!
Yesterday I ran my tractor out of fuel. I was working downhill when the low fuel alarm sounded and I made the mistake of turning around and heading up hill. The tractor died. I dumped in 5 gallons of fuel and gave it a try. After a couple of crank attemps it took off. I drove the tractor back towards the shop.
As I have cronicled in another post, my tractor suffers from the park brake engaging intermittently while driving. The only way to resolve it is to key off the machine and restart. Yep, it locked up half way back to the shop. I keyed off and crossed my fingers. The tractor did not restart. I tried until the battery gave up.
So after reading some blogs and reading the operators manual, I learned how to prime the fuel system and headed out this morning. I opened up the fuel bleed and gave the bulb a dozen or so pumps and had a stream of fuel. I pumped it up again until firm and cracked open the pump bleed. I added jumper cables and gave it a whirl.
It fired after a few attemps and all seemed good. I drove the tractor to the shop and while idling I loaded the bucket with the day's tools. I drove around the back of the shop where we are backfilling a trench and I unloaded the tools. I left the tractor at a high idle to hopefully charge the battery and did a few prep things. After having run for 15 or 20 minutes the tractor died while it was there idling. I tried to prime again. I kept getting little spits of air at the filter. I tried starting and it ran for 20 or 30 seconds.
Over the next six hours I tried lots of things. See if you can make anything from what I have observed. Releasing the bulb after a squeeze always causes a gurgle. I never feel like I get a steady draw of fuel. The check valve in the bulb seems to work most times as long as the bulb is verticle. All of the hoses seem pliable and sound. I cut one inch off the ends to eliminate any issues with the hose clamp areas. If I blow on the line from the bulb to the tank, the tank pressurizes, but I hear no air bubbling up through the fuel in the tank. When I release the pressure in the hose just air comes back. If I suck on the hose, I get intermittent fuel (don't do this at home kids).
I dumped another 5 gallons in since it seemed the tank pickup was not immersed in fuel. I lifted the cab and inspected the fuel line at the tank port. I cut the end off this line and redressed also. The tank port will rotate (normal?). I examined the full length of this line with my fingers from both the cab side and the engine side. I could not detect any cracks, nicks, flats, pack rat gnawing, kinks, etc. I tried opening the filter bleed and pumping the bulb fast and furious. I got several jets of bubbly fuel with intermittent air spurts.
Over the course of the day I expect I pumped 1/2 gallon or better through that little hole. I tried using a pair of vice grips as a secondary check valve on the line between the tank and the bulb. The bulb would pump up firm in 4 or 5 squeezes. I would pinch the line, crack the bleed, close the bleed, unpinch the line. Before releasing the grips, the bulb would stay collapsed. This suggested that there were no leaks between the grips and the upstream side of the system. I pursued this tedious method for 30-40 minutes. I tried cracking the pump bleed and running the bulb pump. I noted that this would push air completely around the loop and I could hear it bubbling back into the tank through the return line. I don't know what the inside of the tank looks like, but should the return bubble the fuel in the tank (like a kid blowing on his straw in his drink). I would expect it to just dump into the top of the tank, not have a dip tube.
Without knowing the inside of the tank, it seams the feed and return are reversed. I might consider this if I hadn't been the only guy touching the machine. Short of that, it seems like the fuel pickup in the tank (if there is such a thing) is no longer attached to the feed line (so why did it come loose now?). If that is the case, what is involved in fixing it. Please don't tell me the tank has to be removed! I am headed to the dealership in the morning to get a new bulb pump. Hopefully I can quiz one of their guys. I might install all new fuel lines just because. I look forward to your feedback and suggestions.
Daen
 

skidsteer.ca

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 20, 2006
Messages
3,853
What is involved in changing out the fuel pickup? Is the grommet in the tank top just a press fit? Is there room to change it out from under the cab? Any special tools or words of wisdom? Thanks, Daen
Yes gromet fit.
Words of wisdom,
Go into your "profile" and check/ turn on "free html editor" then you will have paragraphs.
The return line should be submersed on a diesel to prevent air getting in the fuel system by gravity sucking it back up the return line with the engine off.
if the fuel pickup is in a bad spot, drill a new hole in the tank where access is better. It is common for them to deteriorate and break off
Ken
 

Tazza

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Staff member
Joined
Dec 7, 2004
Messages
16,839
Yes gromet fit.
Words of wisdom,
Go into your "profile" and check/ turn on "free html editor" then you will have paragraphs.
The return line should be submersed on a diesel to prevent air getting in the fuel system by gravity sucking it back up the return line with the engine off.
if the fuel pickup is in a bad spot, drill a new hole in the tank where access is better. It is common for them to deteriorate and break off
Ken
If its tight, a pair of pointy nose pliers help lever it out, it should just push back in when you put a new pickup tube on.
As stated, its not in a fun spot, some are worse than others, but it can be done.
 
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Greatdaen

Active member
Joined
Dec 12, 2005
Messages
33
Yes gromet fit.
Words of wisdom,
Go into your "profile" and check/ turn on "free html editor" then you will have paragraphs.
The return line should be submersed on a diesel to prevent air getting in the fuel system by gravity sucking it back up the return line with the engine off.
if the fuel pickup is in a bad spot, drill a new hole in the tank where access is better. It is common for them to deteriorate and break off
Ken
Ken,
Wow! The editor tip was the best I have had in a long while.
I stopped by the dealership this morning and picked up some new parts (fuel filter, grommet, pickup tube, brass screen, clips, etc.)
I was able to get in and get the hose off and back on the pickup so I can probably get in there and change things out. Before the trip to the dealership I wasn't sure if the pickup was a hard part with needed overhead clearance to remove.
If the pickup is completely broken off, is there any need to go fishing for it? At most I can imagine it possibly interfering with the fuel level sender. Unless someone here says otherwise, it will be staying in the tank...
Thanks again for the input.
Best regards, Daen.
 

Tazza

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Dec 7, 2004
Messages
16,839
Ken,
Wow! The editor tip was the best I have had in a long while.
I stopped by the dealership this morning and picked up some new parts (fuel filter, grommet, pickup tube, brass screen, clips, etc.)
I was able to get in and get the hose off and back on the pickup so I can probably get in there and change things out. Before the trip to the dealership I wasn't sure if the pickup was a hard part with needed overhead clearance to remove.
If the pickup is completely broken off, is there any need to go fishing for it? At most I can imagine it possibly interfering with the fuel level sender. Unless someone here says otherwise, it will be staying in the tank...
Thanks again for the input.
Best regards, Daen.
Its too much effort to get it out, i can't see it doing anything to your fuel sender, its a straight bar with a float, fewer moving parts. It won't hurt anything.
 
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Greatdaen

Active member
Joined
Dec 12, 2005
Messages
33
Its too much effort to get it out, i can't see it doing anything to your fuel sender, its a straight bar with a float, fewer moving parts. It won't hurt anything.
Tazza, Thanks for the input. Two votes to zero says it stays in!
 

OldMachinist

Well-known member
Joined
May 24, 2006
Messages
2,748
Ken,
Wow! The editor tip was the best I have had in a long while.
I stopped by the dealership this morning and picked up some new parts (fuel filter, grommet, pickup tube, brass screen, clips, etc.)
I was able to get in and get the hose off and back on the pickup so I can probably get in there and change things out. Before the trip to the dealership I wasn't sure if the pickup was a hard part with needed overhead clearance to remove.
If the pickup is completely broken off, is there any need to go fishing for it? At most I can imagine it possibly interfering with the fuel level sender. Unless someone here says otherwise, it will be staying in the tank...
Thanks again for the input.
Best regards, Daen.
Some people have posted that the old line when left in the tank continues to break up and clogs the screen. When I replaced my fuel pick up I put a magnet on the end of a long rod and fished the old pick up line/screen out of the tank.
 

skidsteer.ca

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 20, 2006
Messages
3,853
Ken,
Wow! The editor tip was the best I have had in a long while.
I stopped by the dealership this morning and picked up some new parts (fuel filter, grommet, pickup tube, brass screen, clips, etc.)
I was able to get in and get the hose off and back on the pickup so I can probably get in there and change things out. Before the trip to the dealership I wasn't sure if the pickup was a hard part with needed overhead clearance to remove.
If the pickup is completely broken off, is there any need to go fishing for it? At most I can imagine it possibly interfering with the fuel level sender. Unless someone here says otherwise, it will be staying in the tank...
Thanks again for the input.
Best regards, Daen.
I thought you'd like that!
Ken
 
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Greatdaen

Active member
Joined
Dec 12, 2005
Messages
33
I thought you'd like that!
Ken
Fixed!
The problem was exactly as espoused here. The pickup line was broken off right at the bottom of the tank bulkhead elbow. The tubing that was left on it was a bit brittle. Reminded me of the plastic tubing used for lawn irrigation systems - drip lines.
Of course the work had to be in a place that you could either look at, feel with your left hand, or almost feel with your right hand - but only one of those at a time!
After cleaning the area with brake clean and rags, I wrestled the old out with a pair of long needle nose pliers with a bent tip and a big dull-tipped screwdriver. I put the new assembly in and had a tough time getting enough leverage to seat the grommet. Then I got smart and coated it with some oil. Makes the grommet nice and slippery so you can't get a grip on it.
Eventually I got it seated, the fuel line reinstalled, new fuel filter and gave the priming a try. Amazing how well that works. Tractor started on second try. A tiny bit rough but I cracked the bleed valve on the pump for a few counts and it seems back to normal.
Total time this morning was about 2 hours. Not bad for a rookie. And that doesn't count the 6+ hours the other day figuring it out (with lots of help from this forum) nor the trip to the dealership. Price for the new grommet, pickup tube and check valve/screen, and the new filter was around $45 with tax.
Thank you everyone for you great input. My best guess is that with the pickup tube having grown brittle, when I ran the tank dry there must have been some excess "wiggling" of the pickup which caused a crack. The crack developed into a complete failure in the 20 minutes of idling. It just took a while to get my head around the idea that a failure had introduced itself in the middle of recovering from running the tank dry.
Daen
 
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