Does anyone have the Kubota part number or a 3rd party manufacturer cross reference for 743 glow plugs serial number 5019-m-28626. My local dealer Bobcat of Nashville wants $25.00 USD each and I want to see if I can purchase a replacement from another vendor.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Help Support SkidSteer Forum:
Remove the one on number 4 and take it to a diesel repair shop. They will be able to help you out!. I paid less than $10 AUD each for mine ( i think it was even 7). They were ngk i believe. They may even be able to look them up in a book. They only need the engine details that is its a V1702.
Thanks Tazza for the information. I just don't see paying $25.00 for them unless it's necessary.Remove the one on number 4 and take it to a diesel repair shop. They will be able to help you out!. I paid less than $10 AUD each for mine ( i think it was even 7). They were ngk i believe. They may even be able to look them up in a book. They only need the engine details that is its a V1702.
I totally agree!Thanks Tazza for the information. I just don't see paying $25.00 for them unless it's necessary.
I buy aftermarket parts where ever i can, the price difference is huge and the quality is just as good. I have found fast moving parts like keys and seals are genearlly very cheap. The axle seals i needed were cheaper from the dealer than most people can get off the shelf.
Today I checked the voltage to the plugs with a VOM meter and the farthest plug from the back "where the power lead connects" is the only one that has 12V DC. It is also the only one that felt warm to the touch. I have not removed any of the plugs yet. I think I probably need new glow plugs but does anyone think that I have another problem outside of worn out glow plugs? I checked with compactractors.com "weavers tractor repair" and they don't have the plugs in stock but hope to have them next Thursday. $12.00 USD each. Thanks BillI totally agree!
I buy aftermarket parts where ever i can, the price difference is huge and the quality is just as good. I have found fast moving parts like keys and seals are genearlly very cheap. The axle seals i needed were cheaper from the dealer than most people can get off the shelf.
All the plugs should be joined with an aluminum rail. I assume this rail is still there? if so, you should have +12V at each plug even if one is burnt out. Personally i'd remove the plug from number 4 because its easy to get at!. Hool up a hefty piece of wie to it and put it on the battery. See how it glows, if it glows bright red to the tip the others *should* be ok too. If it was me, i would pull them ALL out and check them on the battery then you know 100% that they are ok. If they test out ok, put them back and clean the contacts on the rail and install the rail. Check if that works and if it still plays up hook a wire direct from the glow plug rail to the battery and see if your starting is better. Glow it for say 15 seconds and start cranking. You can leave the plugs glowing while you start the machine, just don't leave them running too long.Today I checked the voltage to the plugs with a VOM meter and the farthest plug from the back "where the power lead connects" is the only one that has 12V DC. It is also the only one that felt warm to the touch. I have not removed any of the plugs yet. I think I probably need new glow plugs but does anyone think that I have another problem outside of worn out glow plugs? I checked with compactractors.com "weavers tractor repair" and they don't have the plugs in stock but hope to have them next Thursday. $12.00 USD each. Thanks Bill
If thats not clear just give me a yell. I have tested many plug this way and it works a treat!!! saved me buying new plugs for no reason.
The rail is still in place connecting all the plugs together. Is number 4 the one thats farthest away from the back door? That is the one that has the voltage and is closest to the wire connecting to the relay. I guess it could be possible that corrosion is stopping the voltage to the other plugs but I would think unlikely. I am not an expert for sure when it comes to troubleshooting Bobcats. I will try to get that last one out and see what happens. The one in the front is behind the fuel injector lines. Can I disconnect and move them out of the way without causing more trouble?All the plugs should be joined with an aluminum rail. I assume this rail is still there? if so, you should have +12V at each plug even if one is burnt out. Personally i'd remove the plug from number 4 because its easy to get at!. Hool up a hefty piece of wie to it and put it on the battery. See how it glows, if it glows bright red to the tip the others *should* be ok too. If it was me, i would pull them ALL out and check them on the battery then you know 100% that they are ok. If they test out ok, put them back and clean the contacts on the rail and install the rail. Check if that works and if it still plays up hook a wire direct from the glow plug rail to the battery and see if your starting is better. Glow it for say 15 seconds and start cranking. You can leave the plugs glowing while you start the machine, just don't leave them running too long.
If thats not clear just give me a yell. I have tested many plug this way and it works a treat!!! saved me buying new plugs for no reason.
Yes, number 4 is the one at the fly wheel end.The rail is still in place connecting all the plugs together. Is number 4 the one thats farthest away from the back door? That is the one that has the voltage and is closest to the wire connecting to the relay. I guess it could be possible that corrosion is stopping the voltage to the other plugs but I would think unlikely. I am not an expert for sure when it comes to troubleshooting Bobcats. I will try to get that last one out and see what happens. The one in the front is behind the fuel injector lines. Can I disconnect and move them out of the way without causing more trouble?
Removing the one behind the injector lines is a real pain in the a$$ trust me!. With that said, its still not a hard job, just takes a bit of time. You will not cause any more problems, but it will be a bit hard to start when you re-attach the fuel line and purge the air out of the system on the first run. Just plug the injectors and injector delivery valves when you remove the high pressure lines to gain access.
If you go this way, let me know and i will try and explain it all. You *may* need to even un-do the inlet manifold to get the socket between the plug and manifold, but usually you can just get in there.
Any problems just yell! i have done this a few times..... Like i said its not hard, just takes a bit of time!.
As for your earlier remark about only number 4 plug warming up to the touch does make me think you have a connection problem between plugs. You could even try a test light from the chassis to the nuts on the plugs that the power rail connects to just to ensure there is power.
