630 Restore

[ancomcabs]

Seeing some of the recent threads on restoring inspired me to get back to work on the 630.
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/54802319/Old BobCat in Shop.jpg
I finally have it pretty much cleaned from all the old grease and in the shop ready for some elbow grease with a grinder and sandpaper.
What have others done about the stickers, sand them off or is there a solvent or something that will remove them easier?
Also I pretty familiar with laquer based finishes, I have a cabinet shop and do quite a bit of spraying, but usually spray rustoleum for things like the plow, etc. but it is a pain since it takes so long to dry does anyone have any suggestions for an industrial enamael that might be a little more user friendly but still durable?
Thanks in advance

 

[Tazza]

Try using a heat gun then solvent to remove the glue. This works most of the time for me, the ones that just refuse to come off, i use a wire buff or a chisel to scrape it off. The wire buffing wheel does make a mess, you need to scrape the goo off afterwards but you do what you need to.
As for paint, i used 2 pack on mine, it gives a great coat but stinks really bad! and isn't good for your healthe either. It also gets on everything because it takes so long to start to set, it will float in the air for some time and get on just about everything.

 

[lesgawlik]

Try using a heat gun then solvent to remove the glue. This works most of the time for me, the ones that just refuse to come off, i use a wire buff or a chisel to scrape it off. The wire buffing wheel does make a mess, you need to scrape the goo off afterwards but you do what you need to.
As for paint, i used 2 pack on mine, it gives a great coat but stinks really bad! and isn't good for your healthe either. It also gets on everything because it takes so long to start to set, it will float in the air for some time and get on just about everything.

My machine was a rental and it was festooned with decals. I used 3M General Purpose Adhesive Remover, which I think is close to Goof Off. That, and a single edged razor blade. I think the razor blade would have worked by itself. Home and hardware stores sell little holders for the blade. If you're careful, you can remove decals without even scratching the paint.

 

[mahans7]

My machine was a rental and it was festooned with decals. I used 3M General Purpose Adhesive Remover, which I think is close to Goof Off. That, and a single edged razor blade. I think the razor blade would have worked by itself. Home and hardware stores sell little holders for the blade. If you're careful, you can remove decals without even scratching the paint.

Here's the image(I'm still practicing posting pictures using Google chrome):

 

[ancomcabs]

Here's the image(I'm still practicing posting pictures using Google chrome):

Not sure I'd call it much progress but at least a step in the right direction. It was nice and sunny so I moved it outside with the fork lift, ground off most of the rust I could get to and gave it a partial coat of rustoleum rusty metal primer. Picked up the Bobcat brand paint today, pricey but it looks like it dries fast much like the conversion varnish I use for cabinets so I figured I'd give it a try. I'm sure they don't make their own and wish I could find out who actually makes their paint? Some kind of industrial enamel
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/54802319/Primer.jpg

 

[Mikefromcny]

Not sure I'd call it much progress but at least a step in the right direction. It was nice and sunny so I moved it outside with the fork lift, ground off most of the rust I could get to and gave it a partial coat of rustoleum rusty metal primer. Picked up the Bobcat brand paint today, pricey but it looks like it dries fast much like the conversion varnish I use for cabinets so I figured I'd give it a try. I'm sure they don't make their own and wish I could find out who actually makes their paint? Some kind of industrial enamel
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/54802319/Primer.jpg

Yeah they dont give the paint away. I bought a can rustoleum professional auto white paint in a rattle can for small parts and touching up, the bobcat paint is noticeably whiter. Bobcat paint dries fast and hard, no thinning or hardener needed.

 

[SkidRoe]

Yeah they dont give the paint away. I bought a can rustoleum professional auto white paint in a rattle can for small parts and touching up, the bobcat paint is noticeably whiter. Bobcat paint dries fast and hard, no thinning or hardener needed.

I have so far only used the Bobcat paint in rattle cans, but it does cover nicely and dries very quickly. Those are two qualities that I don't mind paying a little more for.

 

[lesgawlik]

I have so far only used the Bobcat paint in rattle cans, but it does cover nicely and dries very quickly. Those are two qualities that I don't mind paying a little more for.

Rather than take the rust off down to clean metal and prime, I use POR-15 (Paint over Rust). Moisture causes it to harden, so the more moisture and humidity, the harder it gets. You don't have to get all the rust off, and it's the most tenacious stuff I have ever seen. It cures rock hard, and I topcoat with Bobcat rattle cans.

 

[mahans7]

Rather than take the rust off down to clean metal and prime, I use POR-15 (Paint over Rust). Moisture causes it to harden, so the more moisture and humidity, the harder it gets. You don't have to get all the rust off, and it's the most tenacious stuff I have ever seen. It cures rock hard, and I topcoat with Bobcat rattle cans.

Here's the primed image(I'm still practicing):<img src="http://d.audienceiq.com/r/dd/id/L2NzaWQvNS9jaWQvMzE1ODQ5MC90LzI/extpid/9/extuid/9e8c03556c020ac2a8d367e089262a64" style="width:368px; height:276px;>

 

[mahans7]

Here's the primed image(I'm still practicing):<img src="http://d.audienceiq.com/r/dd/id/L2NzaWQvNS9jaWQvMzE1ODQ5MC90LzI/extpid/9/extuid/9e8c03556c020ac2a8d367e089262a64" style="width:368px; height:276px;>

Another try:

 

[SkidRoe]

Rather than take the rust off down to clean metal and prime, I use POR-15 (Paint over Rust). Moisture causes it to harden, so the more moisture and humidity, the harder it gets. You don't have to get all the rust off, and it's the most tenacious stuff I have ever seen. It cures rock hard, and I topcoat with Bobcat rattle cans.

I have been thinking about going the POR-15 route with some of the rustler areas on my machine, but it does not seem to be too readily available in Canada. The US border is about an hour away. Do any of the large auto parts store chains in the states carry it?

 

[ancomcabs]

I have been thinking about going the POR-15 route with some of the rustler areas on my machine, but it does not seem to be too readily available in Canada. The US border is about an hour away. Do any of the large auto parts store chains in the states carry it?

I've only got a bout 4 hours of grinding and sanding into it so it is not too bad just makes a huge mess. That stuff you mention would be good to treat all the tight inside corners that you cant really get to without a sandblaster. I'm not going too crazy here although I would really like to, it's killing me to not take it appart piece by piece and really restore it but I just don't have enough hours in the day. Right now I just want to get it back together and looking/running good so I can put it up for sale. The hydraulics have always been fine I've only had a little trouble with the Wisconsin engine vapor locking at times, going to put it back together with an electric fuel pump and see how it works.
I have a 2010 S130 as well.
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/54802319/S130 Plow 3.jpg
Part of me is hoping it may not sell and I'll just move it to my house for use around there and leave the S130 at work, Don't all cabinet makers need a pair of skidsteers?

 

[SkidRoe]

I've only got a bout 4 hours of grinding and sanding into it so it is not too bad just makes a huge mess. That stuff you mention would be good to treat all the tight inside corners that you cant really get to without a sandblaster. I'm not going too crazy here although I would really like to, it's killing me to not take it appart piece by piece and really restore it but I just don't have enough hours in the day. Right now I just want to get it back together and looking/running good so I can put it up for sale. The hydraulics have always been fine I've only had a little trouble with the Wisconsin engine vapor locking at times, going to put it back together with an electric fuel pump and see how it works.
I have a 2010 S130 as well.
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/54802319/S130%20Plow%203.jpg
Part of me is hoping it may not sell and I'll just move it to my house for use around there and leave the S130 at work, Don't all cabinet makers need a pair of skidsteers?

LOL, you can't have too many tools!! Just put a price tag of about 15G's on it, tell your wife that your time restoring it needs to be compensated, and see where it goes....

 

[lesgawlik]

I have been thinking about going the POR-15 route with some of the rustler areas on my machine, but it does not seem to be too readily available in Canada. The US border is about an hour away. Do any of the large auto parts store chains in the states carry it?

I haven't seen it in any chain store here, but it is available in specialty stores. I buy it in a store that sells Redline oil. Perhaps there is an antique auto supply store around you. It should be available there. It's also available down here mail order. It isn't cheap, though.

 

[mahans7]

I haven't seen it in any chain store here, but it is available in specialty stores. I buy it in a store that sells Redline oil. Perhaps there is an antique auto supply store around you. It should be available there. It's also available down here mail order. It isn't cheap, though.

Now that's a nice machine:

 

[mahans7]

Now that's a nice machine:

POR-15 seems like it would be the perfect paint for undercoating directly over rust and then you can topcoat with bobcat paint or whatever. Its pricey and they sell it on amazon and eastwood.com(some with free shipping).

 

[ancomcabs]

POR-15 seems like it would be the perfect paint for undercoating directly over rust and then you can topcoat with bobcat paint or whatever. Its pricey and they sell it on amazon and eastwood.com(some with free shipping).

At least these parts fit in the spray booth
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/54802319/Door.jpg
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/54802319/Rims.jpg

 

[ancomcabs]

At least these parts fit in the spray booth
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/54802319/Door.jpg
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/54802319/Rims.jpg

Well at least its white, most of it anyways. I sprayed the door and rims with the bobcat paint, it sprayed easy enough and dried fast as advertised but I was not impressed with the coverage. Used almost the whole quart for the door and rims. I ended up going back to the rustoleum for the white, at 1/3 the cost I can put up with the longer dry time and I have a feeling it will be more forgiving when it comes time to touch things up plus there are plenty of areas I could not really get at but will when it is running again and I can lift the arms, etc. Should be easier to fix that stuff
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/54802319/White.jpg
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/54802319/Door final.jpg
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/54802319/Rims.jpg

 

[ancomcabs]

Well at least its white, most of it anyways. I sprayed the door and rims with the bobcat paint, it sprayed easy enough and dried fast as advertised but I was not impressed with the coverage. Used almost the whole quart for the door and rims. I ended up going back to the rustoleum for the white, at 1/3 the cost I can put up with the longer dry time and I have a feeling it will be more forgiving when it comes time to touch things up plus there are plenty of areas I could not really get at but will when it is running again and I can lift the arms, etc. Should be easier to fix that stuff
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/54802319/White.jpg
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/54802319/Door%20final.jpg
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/54802319/Rims.jpg

wrong tire picture
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/54802319/Tires.jpg