1999 Lx 665 hydraulic oil drain?

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sgf

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Oct 20, 2012
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I am trying to find out the best way to replace the hydraulic fluid in my Lx665. I have the owners, repair and parts manual but am not finding the answer. I searched online and found three answers. They were saying there is a drain underneath, take off a hyd. line accessible after opening the engine compartment door, and the third said the fluid must be suctioned out. If someone knows I'd appreciate the details.
 
The way i do it is to run the machine at idle and pump it out an aux hydraulic line. When it starts to spit, i shut down and re-fill.
You will never get all the oil out, there is oil in the cylinders, hoses, pumps. motors and oil cooler. If you have comtaminated oil, drain it this way, then empty the hydraulic filter. Put in say 10 litres of oil, run the machine again, drive it around, lift/tilt then drain the oil and filter. Repeat till the oil looks to be the right colour again. When you are done, replace the hydraulic filter.
I had a 753 that i got with water in the oil, it was only slightly milky, but slightly is enough. I think it took me 4 changes to get the colour to a point where i was happy with it.
 
The way i do it is to run the machine at idle and pump it out an aux hydraulic line. When it starts to spit, i shut down and re-fill.
You will never get all the oil out, there is oil in the cylinders, hoses, pumps. motors and oil cooler. If you have comtaminated oil, drain it this way, then empty the hydraulic filter. Put in say 10 litres of oil, run the machine again, drive it around, lift/tilt then drain the oil and filter. Repeat till the oil looks to be the right colour again. When you are done, replace the hydraulic filter.
I had a 753 that i got with water in the oil, it was only slightly milky, but slightly is enough. I think it took me 4 changes to get the colour to a point where i was happy with it.
I believe mine has hydraulic oil in it instead of 10w-30 motor oil. I plan to replace the fluid with multi-purpose 303 hydraulic oil. I wanted to change it anyway and when I blew the hyd. line that pressurizes the bucket arm lift I noticed that the fluid is very milky. I'd like to get as much fluid drained from it as I can but I think I'm going to be in the same pricey situation as you were. That is to say I'll be dumping new oil in only to discard it. I hate that but I know purging is the only option. When you pumped out oil via the auxiliary hyd. line did you disconnect the line from the wet line connector or did you find a safe way to open the connector without damaging it? Thanks for the info.
 
I believe mine has hydraulic oil in it instead of 10w-30 motor oil. I plan to replace the fluid with multi-purpose 303 hydraulic oil. I wanted to change it anyway and when I blew the hyd. line that pressurizes the bucket arm lift I noticed that the fluid is very milky. I'd like to get as much fluid drained from it as I can but I think I'm going to be in the same pricey situation as you were. That is to say I'll be dumping new oil in only to discard it. I hate that but I know purging is the only option. When you pumped out oil via the auxiliary hyd. line did you disconnect the line from the wet line connector or did you find a safe way to open the connector without damaging it? Thanks for the info.
As your oil is milky, get hold of the cheapest oil you can, be it hydraulic or 10w30 motor oil. The oil i used was about $12 per 5 litre bottle, i felt that was pretty decent for oil that was going to be wasted. Replace it on the last or second last change to the stuff you want to use.
I opened a line to my 4 in 1 bucket, do you happen to have any spare quick couplers that you can hook up so you don't need to depress the coupler and risk damaging a seal in it.
One thing i didn't mention was between changes, drive the machine around, lift and tilt, this will pull fresh fluid into the drive system and lithe lift and tilt rams, you want to move as much fluid around as possible.
Another thing you can do, is when the fluid is close to clean, start storing it to use in your chain case. It's common for the chain case to get water in it too, so hopefully you can use some of the flushing oil for the chain case if you decide to change the oil in it.
 
As your oil is milky, get hold of the cheapest oil you can, be it hydraulic or 10w30 motor oil. The oil i used was about $12 per 5 litre bottle, i felt that was pretty decent for oil that was going to be wasted. Replace it on the last or second last change to the stuff you want to use.
I opened a line to my 4 in 1 bucket, do you happen to have any spare quick couplers that you can hook up so you don't need to depress the coupler and risk damaging a seal in it.
One thing i didn't mention was between changes, drive the machine around, lift and tilt, this will pull fresh fluid into the drive system and lithe lift and tilt rams, you want to move as much fluid around as possible.
Another thing you can do, is when the fluid is close to clean, start storing it to use in your chain case. It's common for the chain case to get water in it too, so hopefully you can use some of the flushing oil for the chain case if you decide to change the oil in it.
I knew to circulate the oil but I didn't think of the chain case. I've never dealt with the chain case at all. I don't have spare couplers. I do have a ditch bank mower. I'll check and see if I can get a wet line off it without damaging something. If that won't work I'll figure out the size of the male coupler and try to find one locally.
 
As your oil is milky, get hold of the cheapest oil you can, be it hydraulic or 10w30 motor oil. The oil i used was about $12 per 5 litre bottle, i felt that was pretty decent for oil that was going to be wasted. Replace it on the last or second last change to the stuff you want to use.
I opened a line to my 4 in 1 bucket, do you happen to have any spare quick couplers that you can hook up so you don't need to depress the coupler and risk damaging a seal in it.
One thing i didn't mention was between changes, drive the machine around, lift and tilt, this will pull fresh fluid into the drive system and lithe lift and tilt rams, you want to move as much fluid around as possible.
Another thing you can do, is when the fluid is close to clean, start storing it to use in your chain case. It's common for the chain case to get water in it too, so hopefully you can use some of the flushing oil for the chain case if you decide to change the oil in it.
Thanks Tazza for the cheap oil idea. I haven't got to change my fluid yet as have had a lot of rain. So the oil idea came at the right time. Walmart has 10W30 5 quarts under $12. My fluid is not very milky so will change it once and see what it is like. I am getting stuff in the screen and have to clean it out so hope this will help. Ron
 
Thanks Tazza for the cheap oil idea. I haven't got to change my fluid yet as have had a lot of rain. So the oil idea came at the right time. Walmart has 10W30 5 quarts under $12. My fluid is not very milky so will change it once and see what it is like. I am getting stuff in the screen and have to clean it out so hope this will help. Ron
I bought up when it was cheap too :)
It was cheaper to buy it that way vs buying a 44 gallon drum.
Hopefully you will get away with the single oil flush.
 
I bought up when it was cheap too :)
It was cheaper to buy it that way vs buying a 44 gallon drum.
Hopefully you will get away with the single oil flush.
I won't be as lucky as deaop06 to do it in one flush. Mine is very milky. If anyone else is doing this and uses hydraulic fluid like I do, Tractor supply has the 303 multi purpose tractor hyd. oil on sale for $21.99 for 5 gal. right now. Rural King has it for $15.99 but I don't live near their stores, and shipping would up the price too much.
 
I won't be as lucky as deaop06 to do it in one flush. Mine is very milky. If anyone else is doing this and uses hydraulic fluid like I do, Tractor supply has the 303 multi purpose tractor hyd. oil on sale for $21.99 for 5 gal. right now. Rural King has it for $15.99 but I don't live near their stores, and shipping would up the price too much.
sgf, I went to a Rural King 20 miles from me. They were out of the hydraulic fluid. The farmers in the area were buying it 25-35 buckets at a time I got a rain check but if you order over $100 online they ship free. If you are changing twice you would need about 7 5gal buckets. You could order it and not pay any shipping. Just a thought. Ron
 
sgf, I went to a Rural King 20 miles from me. They were out of the hydraulic fluid. The farmers in the area were buying it 25-35 buckets at a time I got a rain check but if you order over $100 online they ship free. If you are changing twice you would need about 7 5gal buckets. You could order it and not pay any shipping. Just a thought. Ron
UPDATE: I got my rain check filled on Saturday. We got over 3" of rain yesterday so changed out the hydraulic fluid this morning. I used Tazza's method and pumped it out. Machine was setting a little down in the front. I got 13gal. out when it started to spit. Not too bad when it only holds 17gal. Put new oil in and will use it a while until is quits raining. We had 3/4" just now. So everything worked great. When I get the leaks fixed I will drain and put new fluid in and all new filters. So thanks Tazza for the idea and thanks to Rural King for a great price on fluid. All I need now is 3-4 days with out rain.
 
UPDATE: I got my rain check filled on Saturday. We got over 3" of rain yesterday so changed out the hydraulic fluid this morning. I used Tazza's method and pumped it out. Machine was setting a little down in the front. I got 13gal. out when it started to spit. Not too bad when it only holds 17gal. Put new oil in and will use it a while until is quits raining. We had 3/4" just now. So everything worked great. When I get the leaks fixed I will drain and put new fluid in and all new filters. So thanks Tazza for the idea and thanks to Rural King for a great price on fluid. All I need now is 3-4 days with out rain.
Glad that method worked for you too, i found it to be quite easy and little to no mess.
 

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