S220 no lift or tilt

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Salbendidi

Member
Joined
May 2, 2013
Messages
16
I have an 04 s220. When I try to lift or lilt the bucket up the engine loads up. Any help would be great. Thanks!
 
Is you aux hydro stuck on?
Thanks for the advice. I decided yesterday to gut the hydraulic system and go through everything. I am trying to track down parts so I can rebuild the hydro pump. Any good sources to buy the valve plates from? Who actually makes these pumps?
 
Thanks for the advice. I decided yesterday to gut the hydraulic system and go through everything. I am trying to track down parts so I can rebuild the hydro pump. Any good sources to buy the valve plates from? Who actually makes these pumps?
Plates can be gotten from loader parts source.
Depending on the wear, you can possibly get away with a sheet of glass and wet and dry sand paper to remove scoring form the plates.
 
Plates can be gotten from loader parts source.
Depending on the wear, you can possibly get away with a sheet of glass and wet and dry sand paper to remove scoring form the plates.
Thanks tazza. Both valve plates need to be changed for sure. It's cut in deeper then the brass. As for the rotating group assembly I wonder if it can't be cleaned up. I've taken some pictures. Just not sure how to load them. I am also wondering if there is clearances that need to be met when your doing A rebuild.
 
Thanks tazza. Both valve plates need to be changed for sure. It's cut in deeper then the brass. As for the rotating group assembly I wonder if it can't be cleaned up. I've taken some pictures. Just not sure how to load them. I am also wondering if there is clearances that need to be met when your doing A rebuild.
No clearance to worry about, the rotating groups are spring loaded, so it takes up any wear.
Geez, if it's cut that deep, i'd suspect the rotating groups are possibly damaged too, but you can try flattening with glass and wet and dry, you have nothing to loose. Just keep turning them to not remove more material off one side.
As for images, host them on the net on stes like photobucket. When hosted, right click the image/copy then right click/paste to your forum post. It should show up.
 
No clearance to worry about, the rotating groups are spring loaded, so it takes up any wear.
Geez, if it's cut that deep, i'd suspect the rotating groups are possibly damaged too, but you can try flattening with glass and wet and dry, you have nothing to loose. Just keep turning them to not remove more material off one side.
As for images, host them on the net on stes like photobucket. When hosted, right click the image/copy then right click/paste to your forum post. It should show up.
Thank you sir. Here are some pics. And it won't work!!!
 
Seems to be my iPad. Do you have an email er something.
Look up my profile, my email is there. Send me links to the files and i can post them for you.
Also, please add a copy of this post address too so i can easily find where to put them :)
 
Look up my profile, my email is there. Send me links to the files and i can post them for you.
Also, please add a copy of this post address too so i can easily find where to put them :)
Thank you sir. Sent off the pics. If you want more to get a better idea let me know. Thanks again
 
Thank you sir. Sent off the pics. If you want more to get a better idea let me know. Thanks again
The wear/valve plate looks really bad.
 photo image1.jpeg

I can see marks on the face of the rotating group too, not sure how you would go with rubbing it down for them.
 photo image.jpeg


 photo image2.jpeg


You mention no lift or tilt too, how is the gear pump at the front? Honestly, with this damage, i'd like to pull the motors down to clean them out too, they may have trash in them.
 
The wear/valve plate looks really bad.

I can see marks on the face of the rotating group too, not sure how you would go with rubbing it down for them.




You mention no lift or tilt too, how is the gear pump at the front? Honestly, with this damage, i'd like to pull the motors down to clean them out too, they may have trash in them.
I just found these now. Thanks for posting tazza. Drive motors look decent in my mind. I will send you some pictures of the, tomorrow. Maybe tell me what you think. Spent most of the night washing the undercarriage and back flushing all the lines with solevent. I'd like to try and push some snow with her this year yet hahaha
 
I just found these now. Thanks for posting tazza. Drive motors look decent in my mind. I will send you some pictures of the, tomorrow. Maybe tell me what you think. Spent most of the night washing the undercarriage and back flushing all the lines with solevent. I'd like to try and push some snow with her this year yet hahaha
I'm completely confused, with what you first described, it sounded like a bad BICs vavle. Maybe even as simple as the electric coil that controls the simply falling off. What where your other concerns to completely gut the machine?
 
I'm completely confused, with what you first described, it sounded like a bad BICs vavle. Maybe even as simple as the electric coil that controls the simply falling off. What where your other concerns to completely gut the machine?
Hey bobcatdan. Main concerns were metal and getting the system clean. The charge pump piled up and took out the drive pump. And ran until it wouldn't run or move anymore. (Bought it like this so I only know what I am told and can see). And you can't believe anything you hear and half of what you see. What would you recommend??
 
Hey bobcatdan. Main concerns were metal and getting the system clean. The charge pump piled up and took out the drive pump. And ran until it wouldn't run or move anymore. (Bought it like this so I only know what I am told and can see). And you can't believe anything you hear and half of what you see. What would you recommend??
If faced with this, new hydrostat, new motors, new cooler, a few filters and a lot of hydraulic oil. I wouldnt mess around rebuilding anything because once you figure parts cost, a complete assembly is 99% a better choice to spend your money.
 
If faced with this, new hydrostat, new motors, new cooler, a few filters and a lot of hydraulic oil. I wouldnt mess around rebuilding anything because once you figure parts cost, a complete assembly is 99% a better choice to spend your money.
I agree. Would you install additional filters? If so where would you reccomend? I pulled the cooler this am. Gonna try flushing it. Dad owns a transmission shop and has a home made bomb for flushing coolers. Should work. If not a new one it will be. As far as the wheel motors I feel they can be cleaned and polished from what I understand. It's spring loaded. So polishing your flat surfaces on glass with 600 should be fine. As far as this Pistons and bores go they look good. Maybe some new rings. If they are clean and this is unsuccessful you will on,y loose time. All other lines are being back flushed. Am I on the right track? Any concerns with the control valve?
 
I agree. Would you install additional filters? If so where would you reccomend? I pulled the cooler this am. Gonna try flushing it. Dad owns a transmission shop and has a home made bomb for flushing coolers. Should work. If not a new one it will be. As far as the wheel motors I feel they can be cleaned and polished from what I understand. It's spring loaded. So polishing your flat surfaces on glass with 600 should be fine. As far as this Pistons and bores go they look good. Maybe some new rings. If they are clean and this is unsuccessful you will on,y loose time. All other lines are being back flushed. Am I on the right track? Any concerns with the control valve?
I always replace the cooler as multiple tranny shops told me there is no way to 100% guaranty of getting everything out. As for the motor, if the center ring that the rollers run against is good, then a reseal is possible. If it is chewed at all, I wouldn't risk it. Control vavle not too worried about. As for filters, what I mean by that. Change filter for the first start up. Run machine threw all functions for a bit. Change fluid and filter run again. From here, I pull the filter and drain. By this time, there shouldn't be any metal. If I do see any, I repeat again. Remember, I look at this from a dealer standpoint. I want repairs right the first time. I chance repairing a motor when it proves out I should have replaced, I look bad to customer and hurt my bottom line as well as my reputation.
 
I always replace the cooler as multiple tranny shops told me there is no way to 100% guaranty of getting everything out. As for the motor, if the center ring that the rollers run against is good, then a reseal is possible. If it is chewed at all, I wouldn't risk it. Control vavle not too worried about. As for filters, what I mean by that. Change filter for the first start up. Run machine threw all functions for a bit. Change fluid and filter run again. From here, I pull the filter and drain. By this time, there shouldn't be any metal. If I do see any, I repeat again. Remember, I look at this from a dealer standpoint. I want repairs right the first time. I chance repairing a motor when it proves out I should have replaced, I look bad to customer and hurt my bottom line as well as my reputation.
Alright. Thank you. I agree with you. Most people use a machine to flush systems. This setup works wonders but lacking volume on this application. Solvent and air at 160psi pounded through multiple times until the system is clean. I've done about 5 flush bombs thus far.metal is still coming. In theory though the oil from the cooler goes directly to the hyd filter?.. So if you got 99% out the last bit will be filtered before its returned. Every other line has beens back flushed. What does a guy do about the Rams? As for the motors they will be great to wear or marking on them pieces. Thanks again Dan
 
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