743B new weird loud squeak @ low RPM

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Tazza said:
Lining the coupler up again isn't as bad as you may think.
Cab up in the air, have a helper slowly bar the engine forward while you lay on the pump holding the coupler up. Never get your finger between the two, it may remove parts of your hand that you'd rather not. If they don't quite line up, get your helper to use a bar on the engine to rotate it slightly.
I managed to remove/replace and engine and replace the U-joints in about 3 hours. That was from running to running. It's not as hard as it may seem.
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Started squeaking again. Went out this time with a stethoscope to more accurately pinpoint the noise. Turns out it was coming from the rearward engine mount. After removing the mount, found a small bolt worked it's way under the mount. I had looked there after one of the posters suggest that I may have washed something underneath, but missed it. The location of the noise was very misleading. Sounded like it was coming from the flywheel side of the engine. Thanks to all posters!
 
jim743 said:
Started squeaking again. Went out this time with a stethoscope to more accurately pinpoint the noise. Turns out it was coming from the rearward engine mount. After removing the mount, found a small bolt worked it's way under the mount. I had looked there after one of the posters suggest that I may have washed something underneath, but missed it. The location of the noise was very misleading. Sounded like it was coming from the flywheel side of the engine. Thanks to all posters!
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Gotta love a nice and easy fix :)
 
antfarmer2 said:
While your in there pull the rad and oil cooler and clean then pull the plastic shroud and check the steel lines the two that cross on the bottom right side of center are bad for leaks where they cross
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Antfarmer2 - do you happen to have a pic of these problem lines? I seem to now have developed a hydraulic leak that appears to be leaking down the middle of the engine compartment under the engine. It seems to leak from sitting more than from using. I think I may have washed away the band aid, there had been so much oil soaked mud accumulated between the pump and fan housing, I think it may have sealed itself up.
 
jim743 said:
Antfarmer2 - do you happen to have a pic of these problem lines? I seem to now have developed a hydraulic leak that appears to be leaking down the middle of the engine compartment under the engine. It seems to leak from sitting more than from using. I think I may have washed away the band aid, there had been so much oil soaked mud accumulated between the pump and fan housing, I think it may have sealed itself up.
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It is not going away only gets worse sorry did not take pics but when you pull the engine and the shroud they are just fight of center and cross you can't miss it
 
antfarmer2 said:
Do you use your aux hydro? .....if not see if it moves if it does pull it back and forth and see if you leak more
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The small bolt was a Metric 6MM x 12-15mm long with a 10mm hex head. I don't use the aux hydro's I have washed it all down today. I will check for leaks again tomorrow. It seemed to be wet on the left hand side of the chain housing, where the 3 or 4 metal lines run across to the right had side right against the fan housing. I also noticed the fan rubbed a hole through the plastic fan housing. Is this a common problem? Thanks
 
jim743 said:
The small bolt was a Metric 6MM x 12-15mm long with a 10mm hex head. I don't use the aux hydro's I have washed it all down today. I will check for leaks again tomorrow. It seemed to be wet on the left hand side of the chain housing, where the 3 or 4 metal lines run across to the right had side right against the fan housing. I also noticed the fan rubbed a hole through the plastic fan housing. Is this a common problem? Thanks
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The bolt might have come from the water pump pulley. I should pull the cover and see if the 4 bolts match. It was painted the same color as the engine.
 
jim743 said:
The small bolt was a Metric 6MM x 12-15mm long with a 10mm hex head. I don't use the aux hydro's I have washed it all down today. I will check for leaks again tomorrow. It seemed to be wet on the left hand side of the chain housing, where the 3 or 4 metal lines run across to the right had side right against the fan housing. I also noticed the fan rubbed a hole through the plastic fan housing. Is this a common problem? Thanks
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I would pull the engine and change the ujoints and fix the lines and do a good cleaning not that hard or that much money but if it over heats from all that oil plugging your rad or the ujoints let go will cost ALOT more can talk you threw it
 
antfarmer2 said:
I would pull the engine and change the ujoints and fix the lines and do a good cleaning not that hard or that much money but if it over heats from all that oil plugging your rad or the ujoints let go will cost ALOT more can talk you threw it
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Ujoints 100 bucks and the two line that rub and the one line in the shroud that was pitted from years of crap gettiing blown by the fan local bent another 100 a days work with beer breaks.......where is the hole in the shroud fan should not hit
 
antfarmer2 said:
Ujoints 100 bucks and the two line that rub and the one line in the shroud that was pitted from years of crap gettiing blown by the fan local bent another 100 a days work with beer breaks.......where is the hole in the shroud fan should not hit
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Looking from the front of the machine. Starts about 2 o'clock - 4 o'clock.
 
antfarmer2 said:
Something it out of line or balance
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I pulled the engine today. I may have more than one leak. There appears to be a leak in the oil cooler, or the line that runs across the bottom of the cooler. The blower housing was caked with oil and dirt, with a puddle at the bottom. This would make sense as to why it didn't seem to leak while running, but mainly from sitting. I believe the fan kept the oil suspended while running, and then leaked down when it was shut off. And the oil was coming out from the bottom of the blower housing, which has a drain hole. I'll have to pressure test the cooler and line for leaks. The four metal lines that run across the chain case were plugged solid with dirt. The two bottom lines are rusty, with some pitting. I had washed it all down, and will inspect after it dries. The blower housing had warped, that is why the flywheel had worn through. I'll see about bracing it with some metal to cover the hole and straighten the warpage. The ujoints seem to move smoothly, but will closer inspect as there may be some movement. Are the input shaft seal on the pump prone to leaking? Oil is every where and tough to pinpoint all the leaks.
 
jim743 said:
I pulled the engine today. I may have more than one leak. There appears to be a leak in the oil cooler, or the line that runs across the bottom of the cooler. The blower housing was caked with oil and dirt, with a puddle at the bottom. This would make sense as to why it didn't seem to leak while running, but mainly from sitting. I believe the fan kept the oil suspended while running, and then leaked down when it was shut off. And the oil was coming out from the bottom of the blower housing, which has a drain hole. I'll have to pressure test the cooler and line for leaks. The four metal lines that run across the chain case were plugged solid with dirt. The two bottom lines are rusty, with some pitting. I had washed it all down, and will inspect after it dries. The blower housing had warped, that is why the flywheel had worn through. I'll see about bracing it with some metal to cover the hole and straighten the warpage. The ujoints seem to move smoothly, but will closer inspect as there may be some movement. Are the input shaft seal on the pump prone to leaking? Oil is every where and tough to pinpoint all the leaks.
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Ok been there go ahead and pull the rad and cooler there are two hidden bolts one on either side holding the metal frame to the body it will come out in one piece and I put this back after the engine much easyer lineing up the ujoints I replaced my ujoint since I was there hundred bucks and piece of mind and the hydr seal is cheap also if you power wash do not hit it there!!!!!! The two crossed lines on the bottom and the one in the shroud is all I replaced and if your float and aux hydro don't work fix it now I mi
 
antfarmer2 said:
Ok been there go ahead and pull the rad and cooler there are two hidden bolts one on either side holding the metal frame to the body it will come out in one piece and I put this back after the engine much easyer lineing up the ujoints I replaced my ujoint since I was there hundred bucks and piece of mind and the hydr seal is cheap also if you power wash do not hit it there!!!!!! The two crossed lines on the bottom and the one in the shroud is all I replaced and if your float and aux hydro don't work fix it now I mi
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Sorry puter locked up.......I did not fix mine when I was in there did not know it was bad yet wish I did have to back in
 
antfarmer2 said:
Be happy you did not over heat and crack your head
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The cooler, rad and blower housing are already out. Washed the cooler, rad and engine bay down. And was careful to stay away from the seal with the pressure washer, but I think I will change the seal anyway. I never used the aux hydro's, but believe they are working because the engine slows down when I shift the lever over. How do you activate the float? Is the metal line below the oil cooler prone to leaking? Sure don't want to replace the cooler $$$?
 
jim743 said:
The cooler, rad and blower housing are already out. Washed the cooler, rad and engine bay down. And was careful to stay away from the seal with the pressure washer, but I think I will change the seal anyway. I never used the aux hydro's, but believe they are working because the engine slows down when I shift the lever over. How do you activate the float? Is the metal line below the oil cooler prone to leaking? Sure don't want to replace the cooler $$$?
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My cooler line was leaking very pitted take a close look at the two bottom ones that cross they are the three that I replaced hundred buck local bent the float you press your toe on your left pedal the seal just has a snap ring holding it I just gently pushed it in till it snaped in the spline was a bit tight to get off I used blue locktight on the bolt Test the cooler but mine was fine plenty of padding lol
 
antfarmer2 said:
My cooler line was leaking very pitted take a close look at the two bottom ones that cross they are the three that I replaced hundred buck local bent the float you press your toe on your left pedal the seal just has a snap ring holding it I just gently pushed it in till it snaped in the spline was a bit tight to get off I used blue locktight on the bolt Test the cooler but mine was fine plenty of padding lol
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That is just the way I stared now pick it up and see if the wheels have any play at all
 

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